advertisement

f you’re looking for seafood, this dramatically decorated, festive restaurant is one of your best bests. Even before looking at the menu, you’ll get the point: Giant jellyfish lamps float overhead from an arched mosaic ceiling, their dangling tentacles lighting the way to your table. Amber-hued kelp columns rise from the floor, amid 8-foot sea urchins and a giant clamshell. Owner/designer Pat Kuleto and owner/chef Mark Franz (who are also both behind seafood shrine Waterbar) worked together to create this unique underwater fantasy in the former Elks Club building. Food sticks to the sea, too—picks might range from buttermilk-poached petrale sole with Dungeness crab to grilled scallops with chickpea risotto—but a few land offerings are always available, such as a dry-aged rib-eye with bone-marrow Bordelaise, horseradish cream, and sourdough onion rings. Desserts, like the French cruller doughnut with grape jelly and peanut butter ice cream, or the chocolate mousse with hazelnut crumble and pomegranate compote, also rate.