A fixture on the dining scene since 1988, this intimate, relaxed yet upscale restaurant is the prime pick if you’re interested in a classic French meal. Chef/owner Roland Passat was born in the Rhône–Alpes in France and honed his craft at cooking school in Lyon; his food is anchored in French tradition, yet contemporary and seasonal and always quality, perhaps because unlike many celebrity chefs, this local legend is still in the kitchen every night. Diners choose between the three- ($85), four- ($95), and five-course ($105) menus which feature such indulgences as stunningly presented sautéed Burgundy snails in lemon butter and bone marrow gratin; lobster and mushroom risotto bathed in lobster broth with leeks; and duck breast coq au vin, served with rhubarb marmalade and duck liver mousse. As a final performance, do not miss the huckleberry baked Alaska, and the Edam cheese soufflé. Portions are generous, so if you’re trying to decide how many courses to pick, you may want to go with the smaller choices.