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A Russian Hill fixture since 1988, this intimate, chic, yet relaxed restaurant is a prime pick if you’re looking for a classic French meal. Chef/owner Roland Passat was born in the Rhône–Alpes in France and honed his craft at cooking school in Lyon; his food is anchored in French tradition, yet contemporary and seasonal (hence the vegetarian menu offered)—and unlike many celebrity chefs, this local legend is still in the kitchen every night, ensuring consistent quality. Diners choose among three-, four-, and five-course menus, which may feature such indulgences as stunningly presented frog legs and snail ragout; lobster and mushroom risotto bathed in lobster broth with leeks; or duck breast coq au vin with rhubarb marmalade and duck liver mousse. As a final performance, do not miss the baked Alaska, and the Edam cheese soufflé. Portions are generous, so if you’re trying to decide which menu to pick, you may want to go with fewer courses. Note: There’s a dress code here, specifying no “athletic wear,” sports shoes, beachwear, flip flops, slippers, casual shorts, or caps. Makes you wonder what inspired it!