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]Not much has changed at this banquet-room-style restaurant since I was a kid. And that’s fine by me, because I always know what I’m going to get—ultra-fresh, expertly made, not-greasy dumplings and other little-plate delicacies carted around the carpeted dining room for me to pick and choose as I like. The childhood favorites—stuffed crab claw, har gau, taro root dumplings, and Peking duck—still do the trick, alongside about 60 other temptations that make an appearance each day. A downside, if there is one, is the price: You’ll pay double what you’d spend in the Richmond District or Chinatown, where dim sum is an everyday part of delicious San Francisco life.