If you've never tried Cambodian food, this is an excellent place to take the plunge. The friendly waitstaff (and hilarious owner, hopefully he'll be in when you dine here) walk newbies through the many options on the menu with kindness and good cheer. And frankly, it's hard to come away from a meal here without becoming a fan of this complex and savory cuisine. Among the many topnotch choices on the menu, I have to give a plug to the amok, a catfish curry that's steamed in a banana leaf and is literally a flavor-explosion on every bite. Also terrific are the ginger fish and the beef satay. Alas, this is a lunch-only place and, though low-key in looks, it has die hard fans so come early, or you may have to wait for a table.

-Pauline Frommer