Beaches in San Juan del Sur

Surfers put this once-sleepy village on the map, and it's the string of beaches north and south of the town that continues to attract the most visitors. The town's beach is itself slightly disappointing, as the sand is dark and there is no privacy, except sometimes at the northern end. Neither is it suitable for surfing, as there is usually just a gentle swell. If you want big waves and paradise-like isolation, you will have to venture farther up or down the coast. A coastal road is slowly coming together, but for the moment, much of it is a bumpy dirt track. Facilities on these beaches are, in general, limited to a few beach-bum campsites and some high-end lodges. New developments are appearing all the time and in danger of denying land access to the beaches. There is little in the way of stores or bars, so be sure to pack some food and refreshments for the day.

A Beach Bummer -- Be aware that some beaches are popular with thieves. Do not leave your belongings unattended, and if you have a car, take advantage of the cheap parking spots on offer by some coastal hostels and restaurants that cost approximately $3.

North

East of the Texaco station, a road leads to Chocolata. After 7km (4 1/4 miles), turn left at Chocolata. The road to the right goes to Playa Majagual, and the road to the left goes to Playa Marsella and Playa Madera. Rides are available from any of the surf shops, or catch a water taxi from in front of the Hotel Estrella on the waterfront.

Playa Marsella is one of the beaches closest to town and is popular with day trippers who want to bathe and swim. On weekends, there is a small, casual food stall serving fish and beer. The road comes right up to the beach. Playa Madera is 30 minutes north by water taxi or car. Here, you'll find a lovely, breezy beach with big waves and some good snorkeling opportunities. Popular with surfers and sunset watchers alike, the beach is accessed by road, and there is room for parking. Some scruffy-looking surf camps offer cheap bunks and lunches. The more upscale Buena Vista Surf Club is located on a hilltop overlooking the beach. Bahía Majagual is a beautiful cove a little farther to the north, 12km (7 1/2 miles) from San Juan del Sur.

South

A bus service leaves from San Juan del Sur to the southern Pacific town of Ostonial, passing relatively close to many beaches on the way, particularly Playa Yanqui and Playa Coco. The buses depart from the market at 1, 4, and 5pm, returning at 5, 7:30am, and 4pm, and they take 2 to 3 hours to reach Ostonial. Be sure to double-check these times, as they are subject to change.

Playa Remanso is the first beach to the south. It has a long shore, which is ideal for exploring and rock hopping. Follow the southern road out of town past the stadium and cemetery. Take the road right at a Y-junction, and you'll find a path to the beach. Note: This path has a reputation for robberies, so do not go alone. Playa Tamarindo is accessed by walking south for 30 minutes along the rocks. Playa Hermosa is a 50-minute walk farther south or a 20-minute stroll from the bus stop at El Carrizal on the main road. Playa Yanqui is an expansive beach with powerful waves popular with surfers. It is a 20-minute drive from town. Playa Coco is 18km (11 miles) south of the town and is the best regarding facilities, with a restaurant, Internet cafe, and several cabins to rent. Close by is the turtle nesting sanctuary La Flor Wildlife Refuge.