Planning a trip to San Juan
All but a handful of visitors arrive in San Juan, the capital city. It is the political base, economic powerhouse, and cultural center of the island, home to about one-third of all Puerto Rico residents.
The second-oldest city in the Americas (behind Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic), this metropolis presents two different faces. On the one hand, the charming historic district, Old San Juan, has some of the best examples of Spanish colonial architecture in the hemisphere, as well as stunning Art Deco and other buildings from the early part of the 20th century. From La Fortaleza (the governor's mansion) to the two old Spanish forts to the Catedral de San Juan, the wonders of the city are a short walk from each other.
New San Juan has its charms as well, particularly evident in its more storied residential architecture in Santurce, Miramar, and Río Piedras. The coastal areas are more modern, where parts of Condado and Isla Verde feel like a more intimate Miami Beach, with rows of luxury hotels and condominiums and fat golden beaches. The two main beach districts have their more low-key corners, however, and the residential Ocean Park community separates them. A few guesthouses are scattered amidst the luxury homes fronting San Juan's best beach.
Much of San Juan, however, is a planning disaster, with urban sprawl eliminating or stressing green areas and ugly condo towers blotting out the view and access to the coast.
Improvements are ongoing all the time, however. San Juan has quietly been transforming over the past decade, with a light-rail train system, a new coliseum, and a state-of-the-art convention center now on line.
Visitors can pretty easily live off the bus and Urban Train system and get where they want to go throughout the tourism districts of Isla Verde, Condado, and Old San Juan, as well in the other main San Juan districts: Miramar, Santurce, Hato Rey, and Río Piedras.
Old San Juan is a 7-square-block area that was once completely enclosed by a wall erected by the Spanish centuries ago. The most powerful fortress in the Caribbean, this fortified city repeatedly held off would-be attackers. By the 19th century, however, it had become one of the Caribbean's most charming residential and commercial districts. Today, it's a setting for restaurants and shops, a large concentration of art galleries and museums. Most of the major resort hotels are located nearby, along the Condado beachfront and at Isla Verde. But the Old City has several first rate hotels and inns, as well.
Getting Around
By Taxi -- There is a flat-rate system for most destinations within San Juan, which is effective, and if you’re caught in impenetrable traffic, it might actually work to your advantage. The island’s Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Transportation Division; tel. 787/999-2100 or 253-0418) establishes flat rates between well-traveled areas within San Juan. From Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport to Isla Verde, $10; to Condado, $15; and to Old San Juan, $19.
There are also set fees from the cruise-ship piers outside of Old San Juan to set destinations: Isla Verde, $19; Condado, $12; and Old San Juan, $7. You will also be charged $1 per bag. Metered fares start off with an initial charge of $1.75, plus $1.90 per mile, and a 10¢ charge for each 25 seconds of waiting time. Tolls are not included in either fare. Normal tipping supplements of between 10 and 15 percent of these fares are appreciated.
But while meters are supposed to be used, on most trips outside the zoned rates, drivers will probably offer you a flat rate of their own devising. San Juan cabbies are loath to use the meter, more to do with ripping off the house or the taxman than the customer because more often than not, the quoted price is fair. But feel free to refer to the established flat rate (if it applies) or ask him to turn on the meter. Drivers normally comply immediately. If they refuse, you can get out and refer the driver to the Tourism Company Transportation Division numbers cited above. But if the quoted price seems fair (use the $19 flat rate for the airport to Old San Juan as a guide), it’s probably easier to go ahead and pay it.
Taxis are invariably lined up outside the entrance to most of the island’s hotels, but if they're not, a staff member can almost always call one for you. If you want to arrange a taxi on your own, reliable operators in San Juan include Metro Taxis (tel. 787/725-2870 or 725-3280) and the Rochdale Cab Company (tel. 787/721-1900).
You no longer have to negotiate a fare with the driver, usually at a flat rate, for trips to far-flung destinations within Puerto Rico. There are also now established fees for taxi rides from San Juan to island destinations. Some examples, from San Juan: Fajardo, $80; Ponce, $125; and Mayagüez, $160. The complete list is available at the Puerto Rico Taxi website (www.cabspr.com/tour.html).
By Bus -- The Metropolitan Bus Authority (tel. 787/250-6064 for route information) operates buses in the greater San Juan area. Bus stops are marked by upright metal signs or yellow posts that say parada. The bus terminal is the dock area in the same building as the Covadanga parking lot next to the Treasury Department. Fares are 75¢.
Most visitors will find the bus service, comfortable, reliable and economic, but the MBA has a way to go in becoming a user-friendly enterprise. A big example is the differing information regarding Route Numbers posted on buses, official bus route maps and schedules (which are nearly impossible to find) and bus stops. The important thing to keep in mind is the bus route numbers. The lettered prefix is what is often marked differently. For example, the A5 and T5 are the same as the 5 bus route. A recent MBA route map discarded the lettered prefix, and we are doing the same, which seemed the most prudent course given the situation. However, be aware that the bus routes in this section will often be accompanied by lettered prefixes, either A, B, C and T, among others.
Beyond the discrepancies, officials were also considering schedule changes in late 2014. It's a good idea to check your itinerary with the driver or fellow passengers before boarding.
Three routes are particularly useful for tourists, those that carry San Juan passengers from Old San Juan to other San Juan tourism districts: The 5 goes to downtown Santurce, Ocean Park and Isla Verde; the 21 down Condado’s Ashford Avenue and then on to downtown San Juan, the city’s financial district Hato Rey and the Plaza Las Americas mall; and the 53, which heads to the Convention Center District, then down Condado’s oceanfront drive and on into Isla Verde. Call for more information about routes and schedules. The private MetroBus operates a few key express routes from Old San Juan to Río Piedras for 50¢.
Any bus marked ATI hooks up with the Tren Urbano, probably at its Sagrado Corazón Station, which is its last stop into the city. The Urban Train ticket cost 75¢ but officials are proposing to increase them to $1.50. Riders get one free transfer between the two systems per ticket.
On Foot -- This is the only way to explore Old San Juan. All the major attractions can easily be covered in a day. If you’re going from Old San Juan to Isla Verde, however, you’ll need to rely on public transportation.
By Trolley -- When you tire of walking around Old San Juan, you can board one of the free trolleys that runs through the historic area. Departure points include the Covadonga, La Puntilla, Plaza de Armas, and the two forts, but you can board along the route by flagging the trolley down (wave at it and signal for it to stop) or by waiting at any of the clearly designated stopping points. Relax and enjoy the sights as the trolleys rumble through the old and narrow streets. The city has also begun operating a trolley along Loiza Street near Ocean Park, in Río Piedras and other areas.
By Limousine -- San Juan has nearly two dozen limousine rental companies, so there are more than enough reputable companies to choose from. There is a wide range of luxury vehicle rentals, called limosinas (their Spanish name), available, from Lincoln Town Car limousines to deluxe stretch Hummers. A simple pickup from the airport to your hotel ranges in cost from $100 to $125. Rentals for other standard trips range from about $70 to $125 per hour, with most cars seating six passengers comfortably. Many firms use drivers who hold tour-guide permits, and limousine operators often give tours of Old San Juan, El Yunque, or other sites to small groups or families. If the driver or another guide leaves the vehicle to tour a specific place by foot, it will cost another $15 to $25 hourly.
By Rental Car -- See “Getting Around,” in chapter 11, for details—including the benefits of car travel as well as the special challenges driving poses in Puerto Rico.
By Ferry -- The Acuaexpreso (tel. 787/494-0934) ferry connects Old San Juan with the industrial and residential community of Cataño, across the bay. Ferries depart daily every 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm. The one-way fare to Cataño is 50¢. Departures are from the San Juan Terminal at Pier 2 in Old San Juan. However, it’s best to avoid rush hours because hundreds of locals who work in town use this ferry. The ride lasts 6 minutes. Service on a second route between Old San Juan and the Hato Rey financial district has restarted with a $1 fare. Ferries run from 6:30am to 6:30pm Monday through Thursday and 6:30am to 8:30pm Friday through Sunday. The Hato Rey ferry terminal, adjacent to the Puerto Rico Coliseum and the Urban Train line, hosts popular bars and restaurants, as well as periodic concerts.
By Public Car -- Public cars, called públicos, are either vans or large sedans that are shared by passengers. Though they can be crowded and uncomfortable, more often than not, they are quite comfortable and spacious. And they are a bargain for budget travelers who have to travel a distance from the airport and do not want to rent a car. Most public cars travel set routes at prices far below what taxis would charge. You should consider taking one from the airport if you’re traveling on a budget to areas outside of San Juan.
In San Juan, público departure and arrival points include the airport, right outside Old San Juan near Plaza Colón, and by the Río Piedras public marketplace. Every town on the island has at least one area where públicos congregate.
If you are traveling out on the island, you also can look them up in the telephone book and Yellow Pages under la linea, which are public cars that will pick you up where you are staying and bring you to a specific destination at an agreed-upon price. A 2-hour drive from San Juan to Guánica costs $25 one-way. Because you travel with other passengers, you may have to wait until the driver takes them to their destinations first. He will pick up and drop off passengers according to what is best for his route and schedule.
By Bike -- Rent the Bicycle, Calle Del Muelle, Capitolio Plaza 205, San Juan (tel. 787/602-9696), is at the entrance of the Old San Juan bayside waterfront. They rent bikes for $27 per day ($17 for half a day) and also conduct several tours throughout San Juan ($39–$79). The two best are the Piñones and the San Juan city and beach tours. Paradise Rentals (in Old San Juan at Pier 2 and in Condado at Condado Village, 1214 Ashford Av.; tel. 787/413-2222) rents electric bicycles, or E-bikes, which allow you to decide whether to pedal or not. Three hours costs $50, with each additional hour $15. Guided tours (Old San Juan for an extra $25) and self-guided audio tours (for an extra $15) are available. Bicycles are $35 per day and $10 per hour. Scooters cost $75 for 3 hours for the driver and an extra $35 per passenger.
San Juan Mass Transit -- Tren Urbano links San Juan to the Hato Rey financial district and Rio Piedras, home to the University of Puerto Rico, the Medical Center, and an increasing number of research and science facilities. It goes on to the western suburbs of Guaynabo and Bayamón. The system provides an easy mode of transportation through the most congested areas of metropolitan San Juan. During rush hour (5–9am and 3–6pm), the train operates every 8 minutes; otherwise, it runs every 12 minutes. There is no service daily from 11:20pm to 5:30am. The fare is 75¢ one-way and includes a transfer to buses. Officials proposed in late 2014 increasing the fare to $1.50 and cutting back service hours during non-peak hours and weekends. It’s a beautiful ride and gives tourists a different experience of the city; the train passes on an elevated track through the modern, Hato Rey financial district, plunges underground in Río Piedras, and then snakes through upscale suburban neighborhoods, with tropical foliage and pools in many backyards. The fare includes a transfer because a special class of buses has been created to link up with particular Tren Urbano routes. The train and accompanying buses keep special expanded schedules during big events, such as festivals in Old San Juan. They also extend schedules when big acts play at the Puerto Rico Coliseum or big events take place at the Convention Center. The Metro Urbano, a bus rapid transport project, connects to Tren Urbano's westernmost station in Bayamón from suburbs farther west. For more information, call tel. 866/900-1284, or log onto www.dtop.gov.pr/transporte_urbano/index.asp.
Getting There
Visitors from overseas arrive at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport, the major transportation center of the Caribbean. The airport is on the easternmost side of the city, conveniently located near the Isla Verde, Condado, and Old San Juan tourist districts. The airport offers such services as a tourist-information center, restaurants, hair stylists, coin lockers for storing luggage, bookstores, banks, currency-exchange kiosks, and bars. A number of shops sell souvenirs, local rums, and coffees for last-minute shopping for gifts for folks back home.
Getting from the Airport to the CityBy Taxi -- Some of the larger hotels outside San Juan send vans to pick up airport passengers and transport them back to the property, but they charge separately for this service. In San Juan, you’ll probably opt to take a taxi to your hotel (buses at 75¢ are cheap but not very timely or practical). Dozens of taxis line up outside the airport to meet arriving flights, so you never have to wait. There are set fares for destinations within San Juan; for other destinations, the cost of the trip should be determined by the taxi meter. The island’s Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Transportation Division; tel. 787/999-2100 or 253-0418) establishes the flat rates between the Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport and major tourist zones: From the airport to any hotel in Isla Verde, the fee is $10; to any hotel in the Condado district, the charge is $15; and to any hotel in Old San Juan, the cost is $19. Taxi service from the airport is quite well regulated, with a dispatcher handing you a ticket detailing your costs. These also include baggage costs (50¢ for each of the first three bags, then $1 per bag), and a 10 to 15 percent tip is expected.
Travel time can vary widely, depending on traffic conditions, with late-afternoon and early morning traffic jams common during commuting hours Monday through Friday. With no traffic delays, Condado is only a 12-minute drive from the airport, but if you get stuck in one of the island’s legendary tapones, as traffic jams are called here, it could take up to an hour. Old San Juan, the farthest destination, is about a 20-minute ride without traffic.
By Limousine -- There are more than enough reputable limousine rental companies to choose from, but arrangements must be made beforehand, since limousines don’t sit at the airport like taxis. You must arrange pickup in advance, or call once you get in. A simple pickup from the airport to your hotel ranges in cost from $100 to $125. Most vehicles fit six passengers comfortably. Your driver will meet you outside the baggage-claim area.
By Public Car -- Public cars, called públicos, are either vans or large sedans that are shared by passengers. The ride can sometimes be crowded and take longer the more passengers there are. They are a bargain for budget travelers who have to travel a distance from the airport and do not want to rent a car. It will cost you $20 to get to Ponce and $10 to Caguas, plus baggage fee. You’ll probably have to take a public bus to pick up the público line, however.
By Car -- All the major car-rental companies have kiosks at the airport. Although it’s possible to rent a car once you arrive, your best bet is to reserve one before you leave home. They provide transportation to your car. See the “Getting Around” section of chapter 11 for details.
To drive into the city, head west along Route 26, or the Baldorioty de Castro Expressway, which cuts just south of San Juan’s Atlantic coastline. Immediately to your right, you will see an Isla Verde exit, and soon the towering oceanfront condominiums of Isla Verde are visible to the right. The road cuts through the Santurce section at the heart of San Juan. You’ll see exits for Condado. All hotels have parking lots open to the public, and several lots are visible from the main roads in the area—both Ashford Avenue and Isla Verde Avenue in Condado. The road then passes by the Condado Lagoon and crosses into Puerta de Tierra near the Caribe Hilton. The road at this point becomes Avenida Muñoz Rivera, as it passes a beautifully landscaped park of the same name on one side, followed by the El Escambrón public beach. The Third Millennium Park is on the opposite side. The road then climbs a bluff overlooking the Atlantic coastline, offering a dramatic view of waves crashing against the rocky shoals.
Here, you will pass the capitol building on your left, and then the historic Spanish fortress Fort San Cristóbal at the entrance of Old San Juan. If you continue straight down into the city along Calle San Sebastián, the northern border of Plaza Colón, you will find parking at La Cochera near Plaza de Armas, which is the closest to the center of the historic district. Another option is to turn right and take the northern coastal road to Ballaja, where there is parking. If you plan on visiting the San Sebastian Street area or El Convento hotel, these two options work best.
If you plan on hanging around the jumping SoFo section near La Fortaleza, you may want to head straight at the stop sign in front of Plaza Colón, taking the street that passes beside the Tapia Theater. Right behind the theater, where the road intersects with Calle Recinto Sur, is the large Paseo Portuario parking garage (tel. 787/722-2233). Bear right for the entrance. Farther down the one-way street is the city-run Doña Fela parking garage (tel. 787/722-3558), intersection Recinto Sur and Calle. Another option at Plaza Colón is to turn left at Plaza Colón as if exiting the city. Take your first two rights, which will turn you around again past the Treasury Building, and park your car in another Covadonga Parking Garage (tel. 787/721-6911) on the left. Operating hours vary, but they are open at least until midnight during weekdays and 3am weekends. Prices vary, with municipal-run lots cheaper than private lots, but figure on paying $1 per hour at municipal lots and up to $3.50 at private lots.
By Bus -- Those with little luggage can take a bus at a cost of 75¢. You need to hop on the 40 or the 45, taking it one stop to Isla Verde. From there, you can take the 5, which runs through Isla Verde, swings towards Condado near Avenida de Diego, and then heads into Old San Juan. To go farther into the Condado, you should switch to 21 at the Parada 18, or Stop 18, bus transfer station, or get off at the Calle Loiza and Avenida De Diego stop and transfer there.
Neighborhoods in Brief
Old San Juan
Home to among the hemisphere's finest restorations of Spanish colonial fortresses and buildings, the Old City is all the more beautiful for its dramatic location sprawled across a headland on the western end of an isleta, or peninsula that splits the roaring Atlantic Ocean from San Juan Bay. It's encircled by water; on the north is the Atlantic Ocean and on the south and west is the tranquil San Juan Bay. The historic Spanish wall built to hold off attacks still circles the city, which is filled with beautiful churches, shady plazas, majestic promenades, and wonderful residences and gardens. It's a robust cultural and commercial district with theaters, galleries, clubs, bars and restaurants, and some of the most interesting shops in the region. There are fine lodgings with sundecks and pools, so you can work on your tan and stay in the city if that's your thing.
Puerta de Tierra
Translated as "land gateway," Puerta de Tierra lies just east of the old city walls of San Juan. It is split by Avenida Ponce de León and interconnects Old San Juan with the Puerto Rican "mainland." Founded by freed black slaves, the settlement today functions as the island's administrative center and is the site of military and government buildings, including the capitol and various U.S. naval reserves. It is dominated by the green Luis Muñoz Rivera Park and the oceanfront Third Millennium Park and adjacent El Escambrón public beach. Its southern end is home to a rough and tumble neighborhood with a few interesting eateries.
Miramar
Miramar is an upscale residential neighborhood, with a small business district and a large port across San Juan Bay. It has two marinas where fishing boats and yachts lie at anchor. The whole harbor-side area is being redeveloped, spearheaded by the state-of-the-art Puerto Rico Convention Center. A new hotel has just opened, and adjacent luxury retail, office, and residential units are being planned, as is a huge bayside promenade to connect the area to Old San Juan. It's also the site of Isla Grande Airport, where you can board flights to the islands of Vieques and Culebra.
Condado
Linked to Puerta de Tierra and Old San Juan by a bridge built in 1910, the Condado was once known as the "Riviera of the Caribbean," enjoying a voguish reputation in the 1920s, which was renewed by revivals in the 1960s and again today, with several restored hotels and other properties opening after dazzling renovations along this district wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and the Condado Lagoon. It's one of the most coveted neighborhoods in Puerto Rico, and offers resorts and guesthouses right on the beach for tourists.
The beautiful oceanfront Window of the Sea Park is at the center of the area; it opens onto the Atlantic Ocean and is fronted by gleaming townhouses and luxury towers, home to glamorous residences, restaurants, and designer fashion stores. These include Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo, luxury condos, and Budatai, one of the island's best restaurants. The former La Concha has opened next door after a 10-year renovation, and luxury condos are being built in the former Vanderbilt hotel nearby. Luxury hotels and more modest guesthouses fill the sector, as do wonderful restaurants of all types.
One central road, Avenida Ashford, runs through Condado, which, at night especially, still evokes something of Miami Beach, with its restored Art Deco properties and modern luxury condos and hotels. The area is popular with locals, the gay community, and visitors.
Ocean Park
Dividing the competitive beach resort areas of the Condado and Isla Verde, Ocean Park is a beachfront residential neighborhood with probably the prettiest and most low-key beach in San Juan. The beaches are wide here, and the sun beats down on the beach longer because there are few large condominiums. It's great for windsurfing and kite-sailing, games of paddle ball and body surfing. The tree-covered streets are filled with beautiful suburban homes, a charming mix of Malibu, Spanish, and Caribbean influences.
The white, arching Ultimate Trolley Beach delineates the border between Ocean Park and Punta Las Marias. Adjacent to that, the neighborhood of Santa Teresita, with its share of equally stunning residences, has an equally nice park, Barbosa Park.
The park is usually filled with soccer and basketball players. There are tennis courts, a baseball field, and a track, which are always a beehive of activity.
The beach disappears into a rock formation at Punta Las Marías, which is a gated community open to pedestrian visitors during the day. But unless you're a windsurfer using one of the neighborhood's famed launching points, your experience of the area will likely be confined to the string of fine restaurants along Calle Loíza, right before it turns into Avenida Isla Verde. The neighborhood is also popular with the gay and lesbian community, both residents and visitors.
Isla Verde
East of the Condado, en route to the airport, Isla Verde -- technically a part of the municipality of Carolina but in spirit more a part of San Juan -- is both larger than the Condado and probably has more hotels. Here there is also an oceanfront row of luxury condos and hotels along a main oceanfront boulevard. But where Condado may score higher with its restaurants and shops, and its older and more artful architecture, Isla Verde wins hands down in the beach department -- you'll find a wide, clean, white-sand beach running the full length of the neighborhood just off its main strip. The main road here is called Isla Verde Avenue. Pine Grove Beach, a favorite with sailors and surfers, is located east of where the main beach ends. After Isla Verde is a municipal public beach and then the undeveloped area of Piñones, with its rural coastal charms.
Don't come here for history or romance. Two features put Isla Verde on the tourist map: some of San Juan's best beaches and its most deluxe hotels. This district appeals to travelers who like a hotel to offer everything under one roof: entertainment, vast selections of dining, convenient shopping, pools, and an array of planned activities.
Hato Rey
The city's financial district, the Wall Street of the West Indies, occupies several streets. There are high-rises, a large federal complex, and many business and banking offices.
The sector has been transformed by the Puerto Rico Coliseum and the Tren Urbano, which snakes through the towers of capitalism on elevated tracks. The new arena gets top acts (it's had the Rolling Stones and Paul McCartney). There's also the Fine Arts Cinema, with art and foreign films, luxury seats, gourmet food, and yes, beer and wine.
The sector also contains the huge Luis Muñoz Marín Park, with miles of bicycle and jogging paths, picnic areas and fields, interrupted by scores of small ponds and islands of tropical vegetation. The park also features a top-notch amphitheater and a cable car ride.
Rio Piedras
South of Hato Rey and Santurce, this is the site of the University of Puerto Rico, whose buildings look like an Ivy League school except for the tropical vegetation. It's dominated by the landmark Roosevelt Bell Tower, named for Theodore Roosevelt, who donated the money for its construction. It's a top-notch institution than can boast beautiful grounds as an added attraction.
There's also a large shopping area surrounding the Río Piedras Marketplace (selling fresh fruit and vegetables) and the pedestrian walkway Paseo de Diego, lined with shops, eateries and bargains galore. The shops attract travelers from across the Caribbean.
The UPR Botanical Gardens are located here as well, with a beautifully arranged array of tropical trees and plants.
Suburban San Juan
The San Juan sprawl has enveloped surrounding towns, reaching all the way down south into Caguas. Neighboring Bayamón, Guaynabo, and Carolina are practically considered part of the city, however. Guaynabo and Caguas have fine arts centers with top-name acts and full cultural performances, while Bayamón has such family activities as a bicycle linear park and the Luis A. Ferré Science Technology Park. Visitors will also likely go to Cataño to visit the Bacardi Rum Plant. It's a modest community built right across the bay from Old San Juan.
Visitor Information
The Puerto Rico Tourism Company office at Luís Muñoz Marín Airport (tel. 787/791-1014 or 787/721-2400, ext. 5216 or 5223) is open daily from 9am to 7pm. In Old San Juan, the Tourism Company operates an information center at La Casita, at Plaza de la Darsena, Old San Juan, near Pier 1, where the cruise ships come in (tel. 787/722-1709). This office is open daily from 9am to 5:30pm.
Fast Facts
American Express -- Call the company’s local toll-free customer service line: tel. 800/327-1267.
Banks -- Local banks have branches with ATMs in San Juan that function on U.S. networks. Branches are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4pm, with select branches open Saturday 9am to noon. Bank branches in malls are open Saturday 8:30am to 6pm and Sunday 9am to 3pm.
Bus Information -- See “Getting Around”. For information about bus routes in San Juan, call tel. 787/294-0500 or 250-6064.
Car Rentals -- See “Getting Around." If you want to reserve after you’ve arrived in Puerto Rico, try Avis, Budget, or Hertz, or the local agencies Charlie Car Rental or Target Car Rental.
Consulates -- Many countries maintain honorary consulates here, mostly to try to drum up mutually beneficial trade on the island, but they can be of assistance to travelers. Great Britain's consulate can be reached through (tel. 787/850-2400; britishconsulatesanjuan@yahoo.com). The consulate for Canada is at Av. Ponce de León 268, Ste. 1111, Hato Rey (tel. 787/759-6629; canadaprvi@aol.com), and is open only by appointment. Spain's consulate is located at Mercantil Plaza, 2nd floor, Av. Ponce de León, Hato Rey (tel. 787/758-6090 consulespana@isla.net), while the Switzerland's consulate is at 816 Calle Dianam (tel. 787/977-0286; swissconsulate.pr@onelinkpr.net).
Currency Exchange -- The unit of currency is the U.S. dollar. Many large banks provide currency exchange at some branches, and you can also exchange money at the Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport.
Drugstores -- One of the most centrally located pharmacies is Puerto Rican Drug Co., Calle San Francisco 157 (tel. 787/725-2202), in Old San Juan. It’s open Monday to Friday from 7:30am to 9:30pm, Saturday 8am to 9:30pm, and Sunday 8:30am to 7:30pm. Walgreens, Av. Ashford 1130, Condado (tel. 787/725-1510), is open 24 hours. There are also other Walgreens throughout the city, one in practically every neighborhood. There are other locations in Old San Juan, Miramar, Isla Verde, and on Calle Loiza near Ocean Park. CVS Pharmacy, Paseo Gilberto Concepcion de Gracia 105 (tel. 787/725-2500), is located near the cruise-ship docks in Old San Juan and is open 7am to midnight daily. It also was about to open a megastore at the Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino in Condado, right across the street from Walgreen's megastore.
Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial tel. 911. Or call the local police (tel. 787/343-2020), fire department (tel. 787/343-2020), ambulance (tel. 787/766-2222), or medical assistance (tel. 787/754-2550).
Eyeglasses -- Services are available at Pearle Vision Express, Plaza Las Americas Shopping Mall (tel. 787/753-1033). Hours are Monday to Saturday from 9am to 9pm and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. Tropical Vision, Calle La Fortaleza 308 (tel. 787/723-5488), is located in Old San Juan.
Hospitals -- Ashford Presbyterian Community Hospital, Av. Ashford 1451 (tel. 787/721-2160), maintains a 24-hour emergency room.
Internet Access -- If you have a laptop or other wireless device, there are Internet hotspots throughout the city at food courts in malls, Starbucks, Burger King, McDonalds, and historic plazas in Old San Juan. Most hotels and guesthouses also have Wi-Fi service for guests.
Police -- Call tel. 787/343-2020 for the local police.
Post Office -- In San Juan, the General Post Office is at Av. Franklin Delano Roosevelt 585 (tel. 800/275-8777 or 787/622-1758). If you don’t know your address in San Juan, you can ask that your mail be sent here “c/o General Delivery.” This main branch is open Monday to Friday from 5:30am to 6pm, Saturday from 6am to 2pm. A letter from Puerto Rico to the U.S. mainland will arrive in about 3 to 4 days.
Restrooms -- Restrooms are not public facilities accessible from the street. It’s necessary to enter a hotel lobby, cafe, or restaurant to gain access to a toilet. Fortunately, large-scale hotels are familiar with this situation, and someone looking for a restroom usually isn’t challenged during his or her pursuit.
Safety -- At night, exercise caution when walking along the back streets of San Juan, and don’t venture onto the unguarded public stretches of the Condado and Isla Verde beaches at night. Few muggings take place in tourist areas, but the usual precautions exercised in any city apply at night.
Salons -- Most of San Juan’s large resort hotels, including the Condado Plaza, the Marriott, and the Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel, maintain hair salons. Los Muchachos, in Old San Juan, has an army of stylists cutting and sprucing walk-in traffic as well as appointments.
Taxis -- See “Getting Around."
Telephone, Computer & Fax -- There are international call, Internet, and fax and mail services available at stores near the cruise-ship docks (catering mostly to crew). Long distance calling cards are widely available in drugstores and variety shops.Parking
Metropolitan San Juan includes the walled Old San Juan at the end of a long peninsula, Puerta de Tierra, the narrow bridge of land between San Juan Bay and the Atlantic Ocean that connects the Old City with the rest of San Juan. You can take a bridge into Condado, a narrow strip of land between the ocean and a lagoon, or continue on to the beautiful residential Miramar neighborhood, where the once seedy waterfront section is being revamped into the world-class Convention Center District and related leisure development. The city also includes Santurce, its traditional downtown area, which has also been experiencing a revitalization in recent years, with large theaters and old apartment buildings being polished up so that the sector is starting to shine again like it did in its 1940s heyday. The Hato Rey financial district has taken on an almost futuristic look with its elevated Tren Urbano and distinctive Puerto Rico Coliseum, which has something exciting going on just about every week. Río Piedras is both the site of the University of Puerto Rico and one of the best street markets in the Caribbean.
The Condado strip of beachfront hotels, restaurants, casinos, and nightclubs is separated from Miramar by a lagoon. Isla Verde, another resort area, is near the airport, which is separated from the rest of San Juan by an isthmus. Ocean Park is a charming residential neighborhood between the two that has a great beach.
Finding an Address -- Finding an address in San Juan isn't always easy. You'll have to contend not only with missing street signs and numbers but also with street addresses that appear sometimes in English and at other times in Spanish. The most common Spanish terms for thoroughfares are calle (street) and avenida (avenue). When it is used, the street number follows the street name; for example, the El Convento hotel is located at Calle del Cristo 100, in Old San Juan. Locating a building in Old San Juan is relatively easy. The area is only 7 square blocks, so by walking around, it's possible to locate most addresses. Also, sanjuaneros, for reasons I've yet to determine, still use the stop numbers, or paradas, from a trolley that stopped running back in the 1950s as a reference point for directions. For example, parada 18 is at the heart of Santurce. In general, the higher the stop number, the farther its distance from Old San Juan.
Street Maps -- ¡Qué Pasa!, the monthly tourist magazine distributed free by the tourist office, contains accurate, easy-to-read maps of San Juan and the Condado that pinpoint the major attractions.
