Looking nothing like any other church in Mexico, La Parroquia has become the emblem of San Miguel. It is an object of great pride for the citizenry and a source of discomfort for architectural purists. Originally built in the colonial style, the church was remade in the late 19th century by a local builder named Zeferino Gutiérrez, who reconstructed the towers and facade. Gutiérrez was unlettered but had seen pictures of Europe's Gothic cathedrals and worked from these alone. I find the finished product fascinating -- a highly personal vision of the Gothic style that owes more to the builder's imagination and fancy than to the European churches that were its inspiration. The inside is not nearly so much fun as the outside; the church was looted on several occasions during times of social upheaval, and this kind of art criticism puts a damper on commissioning more paintings and decoration. Still, there are things to see. My favorite, and one often missed, is the crypt beneath the altar. You get to it through a door on the right side. You'll have to seek out the caretaker, who can unlock the door (for a small tip).