Planning a trip to San Miguel de Allende
Getting There & Departing
By Plane -- The two major airports are the Benito Juárez International Airport in Mexico City, 3 1/2 hours away (which has direct bus transportation to nearby Querétaro), and the León/Guanajuato airport, 1 1/2 hours away.
By Car -- You have a choice of two routes for the 3 1/2-hour trip from Mexico City -- a Querétaro bypass or via Celaya. The former is shorter -- take Hwy. 57, a four-lane freeway, north toward Querétaro. Past the Tequisquiapan turnoff is an exit on the right marked A SAN MIGUEL. This toll road bypasses Querétaro and crosses Hwy. 57 again north of town. Here it narrows to two lanes and becomes Hwy. 111. Some 30km (19 miles) farther is San Miguel.
From Guanajuato, the quick route is to go south from the city a short distance on Hwy. 110, then east on a secondary, paved road passing near the village of Joconoxtle. For the long but scenic route, which passes through Dolores Hidalgo, go northeast on Hwy. 110 through Dolores, then south on Hwy. 51. If you drive this route, take a break and experience a slice of rural Mexican life near the small community of Santa Rosa, where a few restaurants serve the local mezcal de la sierra, a distilled firewater that packs a strong punch and has a forceful aroma of agave.
By Bus -- From Mexico City airport: AeroPlus buses (tel. 55/5786-9357) leave directly from the airport for Querétaro about every hour or half-hour, depending on the time of day. A one-way ticket costs 256 pesos.
From Mexico City's Central Norte: First-class buses take 4 hours (with one stop in Querétaro). The company ETN (tel. 01-800/800-0386 in Mexico; www.etn.com.mx) has the best service, with wide seats that recline far back (four buses per day). Primera Plus (tel. 01-800/375-7587 in Mexico; www.primeraplus.com.mx) has two buses per day. Regular service is handled by Flecha Amarilla, with buses leaving every 40 minutes. Another option is to take a bus to Querétaro and change buses.
From Querétaro: Local buses run to San Miguel every 20 minutes (Flecha Amarilla and Herradura de Plata have alternating departures). If you arrive in Querétaro by first-class bus, you'll be in Terminal A. Go out the door, turn right, and walk to Terminal B.
From Guanajuato: ETN has three nonstop superdeluxe buses per day. Primera Plus/Servicios Coordinados has four nonstop buses per day.
To/from Laredo and Nuevo Laredo: Four companies offer an overnight first-class bus to and from Laredo or Nuevo Laredo: Autobuses Americanos (tel. 415/154-8233; www.autobusesamericanos.com.mx/americanos) crosses the border to Laredo, Texas; Futura (tel. 415/152-2237), Primera Plus (tel. 01-800/375-7587 in Mexico), and Omnibus de México (tel. 01-800/765-6636 in Mexico; www.odm.com.mx) go to Nuevo Laredo. The trip takes 12 hours and costs around 900 pesos. From San Miguel, there is one departure per day per company. The four buses leave San Miguel between 6 and 7pm. Departure times from Laredo and Nuevo Laredo are also around 6 or 7pm.
The bus station is 2km (1 1/4 miles) west of town on the westward extension of Calle Canal. Taxis to town are cheap (30 pesos) and available at all hours.
Visitor Information
The city's tourist information office is in the ayuntamiento (city hall) facing El Jardín. The address is Plaza Principal 8, and the phone is tel. 415/152-0900. Office hours are Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 8pm, Saturday from 10am to 8pm, and Sunday from 10am to 5:30pm.
City Layout
Carefully pruned Indian laurel trees shade San Miguel's central square, El Jardín. The center of city life, El Jardín is the point of reference for all places in the middle of town and is bounded by Correo (Post Office St.), San Francisco, Hidalgo, and Reloj.
Getting Around
Most places in San Miguel are within walking distance, so a car isn't necessary. Buses to outlying villages (La Taboada thermal pool, for example) leave from the little plaza by the mercado. Taxis to places inside town should not cost more than 40 pesos, unless ordered from a hotel.
Fast Facts
Area Code -- The telephone area code is 415.
Climate -- San Miguel can be warm in summer and cold enough for wool clothing in winter, especially at night or during the occasional cold spell.
Communication & Shipping Services -- Several services offer packing and shipping, mailboxes, and the like. One is Border Crossings, Mesones 57-A (at Reloj; tel. 415/152-2497; fax 415/152-3672), and Pack 'n' Mail is at Calle Canal 42 (tel./fax 415/152-3191). Both keep standard office hours: weekdays from 9 or 10am to 6pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.
Consular Office -- A U.S. Consular Agency is at Hernández Macías 72, Int. 111 (tel. 415/152-2357). Hours are Monday to Thursday from 9am to 1pm.
Currency Exchange -- Intercam has three locations: Juárez 27, San Francisco 4, and Correo 15. Business hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday from 9am to 1pm. CiBanco, at Juárez and San Francisco, is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm. Several banks have cash machines, including one on the corner of the Jardín in the Casa del Conde, and a few on Calle San Francisco.
Drugstore -- Try the Farmacia Agundis (tel. 415/152-1198), Canal 24 at Macías. It's open daily from 9:30am to 1am.
Internet Access -- Several places offer Internet access around town. These businesses come and go so fast it's not worth listing them. Ask at your hotel for the nearest cybercafe.
Library -- The Biblioteca Pública (Public Library), Insurgentes 25 (tel. 415/152-0293; www.bibliotecasma.com), is a social institution for the resident American community. It has a good selection of books in Spanish and English. Hours are Monday through Friday from 10am to 7pm, and Saturday from 10am to 2pm. The library also has a very pleasant cafe in the rear patio.
Newspaper -- An English-language paper, Atención, carries local news as well as full listings of what to see and do.
Parking -- San Miguel is congested, and street parking is scarce. A white pole or sign at the end of a street marks the stopping point for parking (so that other cars can make a turn). Police are vigilant about parking and ticket with glee.
Post Office -- The correo, Calle Correo 16, is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4:30pm for all services, Saturday from 9am to 1pm.
Spanish-Language Programs
San Miguel has several schools for learning Spanish. If you're wishing to take classes, shop around before you travel to San Miguel to find one that's a good fit for you. These schools cater to travelers and often can provide a list of apartments for long-term stays.
Instituto Allende, Calle Ancha de San Antonio 20, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. (tel. 415/152-0190; www.instituto-allende.edu.mx), began in 1950 as a fine-arts school and later added Spanish courses. The main focus is still on the arts, with different classes and workshops offered throughout the year. Spanish students have the option of group and individual classes, short and long term. The school's credits are transferable to many colleges and universities in the United States and Canada; noncredit students are also welcome.
LanguagePoint, 20 de Enero Sur 42, 37750 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. (tel. 415/152-4115; www.languagepoint.org), offers instruction and immersion at all levels of competency. With a maximum of three students per instructor, students get a lot of individual attention, and the teaching method leans heavily toward conversation. Emphasis at the basic level is on gaining a working knowledge of everyday Spanish as a basis for further development of language skills.
Warren Hardy Spanish, San Rafael 6, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. (tel. 415/154-4017; www.warrenhardy.com), is a popular school for those who know little Spanish. Emphasis is on the spoken language, with special focus on the use of verbs. Mr. Hardy has taught Spanish for many years and has designed his own methodology for teaching it, which involves partnering students and using a lot of flashcards. It's best to contact the school through its website. Mr. Hardy's wife, Tuli, answers questions and handles registration.
Academia Hispano Americana, Mesones 4, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. (tel. 415/152-0349; www.ahaspeakspanish.com), has a reputation for offering an intensive language course taught by professional instructors. The focus is on developing communications skills as the foundation for acquiring fluency. Classes are limited to 12 people and usually run much smaller than that. The school has a continuous program of study of 12 4-week sessions for 35 hours a week. Less intensive courses and private lessons are also available.
Habla Hispana, Calzada de la Luz 25, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. (tel. 451/152-0713; www.mexicospanish.com), is a small school with four experienced and dedicated instructors, all locals. Classes are arranged in 4-week courses. Class size is limited to 10 students. The school likes to combine a personal touch with a clearly structured teaching program.
