Visitor Information

San Salvador's national tourism bureau's (CORSATUR) office is located at Alameda Dr. Manuel Enrique Araujo, Pasaje and Building Carbonel #2, Colonia Roma (tel. 503/2243-7835), and is open Monday through Friday 8am to noon and 1 to 5pm. The airport also offers a tourism office (tel. 503/2339-9454) with English-speaking staff that's open Monday through Friday from 7am to 6pm.

Orientation

San Salvador is Central America's largest city in terms of size, sprawling 570 sq. km (220 sq. miles) east from the base of Volcán San Salvador. The three main tourist zones are El Centro in the east, and the Escalón neighborhood and Boulevard del Hipódromo in Zona Rosa in the west. All three neighborhoods are connected by the city's main east-west highway, known as Alameda Franklin Delano Roosevelt, east of the Plaza de Las Américas and Paseo General Escalón west of the plaza. El Centro includes the city's traditional square, national cathedral, and theater and is a crowded, urban area. It's safe during the day, but best not visited at night. Zona Rosa and Escalón are more upscale residential neighborhoods and offer some of San Salvador's top restaurants, nightclubs, and shops. Adjacent to Zona Rosa to the west, you'll find the Colonia San Benito neighborhood, home to the Museo Nacional de Antropología Dr. David J. Guzman and Museo de Arte. Just south of the Zona Rosa area, past a rather large and brand new Mormon church, you'll find the Multi-Plaza and La Gran Via shopping malls. It's not a good idea to stray too far from these three areas without local knowledge or a guide.

Though most of your travel in San Salvador will be east-west along Roosevelt/Escalón, the city also has a couple of key north-south routes. The main north-south route through the El Centro section is known as Avenida España north of Plaza Barrios and Avenida Cuscatlán south of the Plaza. Avenida Norte, which becomes the Boulevard de los Héroes, splits the middle of the city; to travel south to the Zona Rosa and Colonia San Benito neighborhoods from the Paseo General Escalón, follow Avenida Manuel E Araujo to Boulevard del Hipódromo.

The city has a street system that seems cryptic when first encountered but makes perfect sense once you understand it. Thoroughfares called avenida run north and south, split between norte and sur, depending on what side of Calle Delgado and Calle Arce they fall on. Odd numbers mean the address is west of avenidas España and Cuscatlán, and even numbers mean it is east of them. Likewise, streets called calle run east to west and are called oriente (east) or poniente (west), depending which direction from avenidas España and Cuscatlán they run from. Even numbers are south of avenidas España and Cuscatlán, and odd numbers are to the north of them. If this isn't confusing enough, there are several diagonal avenues that thankfully have their own names, such as Boulevard de los Héroes and Alameda Araujo.

Staying Safe

"But isn't it dangerous there?" Your friends will most likely ask when you tell them of your upcoming trip. The short answer is no, El Salvador is, in fact, a safe country to travel in. However, it does have its issues and dangers, and those should be taken into account. The street gang Mara Salvatrucha, which has members throughout the country, is considered to be among the most violent in the world, and El Salvador has one of the planet's highest homicide rates-14 a day in 2011. Street and bus robberies in bad neighborhoods are also not uncommon, and petty extortion is endemic. Sadly this is the reality amongst the Salvadoran poor, but it rarely touches visitors. If you follow a few simple rules, you should have a safe and enjoyable trip.

Among the most important things to consider when traveling in El Salvador is not to stray too far off the travelers' path without knowledge of the area or a guide. Neighborhoods can change quickly, and it's often difficult to distinguish between safe and unsafe areas by appearance alone. Some of the leafier, residential neighborhoods immediately outside larger cities are among the most prone to robbery. The main tourist areas of the bigger cities, however, are usually filled with people and are among the most heavily patrolled.

Small-town squares are also usually filled with locals into the evening and are among the safest places you're likely to visit. Don't be spooked by the presence of heavily armed police and private security guarding many of the country's banks, businesses, and tourist areas: El Salvador has a turbulent history, and the presence of armed guards -- even in small towns -- has become part of the culture. Heavy firepower does not mean an area is particularly dangerous.

Avoid traveling between towns or walking away from main squares at night; if you must venture out, always take a cab at night in bigger cities. It's also a good idea not to hike in rural, isolated areas without a guide.

Don't carry or display items of obvious value, such as jewelry or expensive cameras; if you don't look like you have anything worth stealing, you're less likely to be robbed. Get in the habit of looping an arm or leg through the strap of your bag when you sit in a restaurant or bus depot, and don't leave bags unattended, even for a moment. Simply being aware of what is around you helps: If someplace doesn't feel safe, it probably isn't. Just walk away.

Perhaps the most important safety tip, stressed to me by many El Salvadoran friends and provided as standard advice by government agencies, is to give up your valuables immediately if robbed. El Salvador's criminals are known to turn quickly violent when resisted. So, if you're confronted, don't try to reason and don't bargain for your laptop.

Getting There

By Plane -- El Salvador International Airport, also known as Comalapa or Cuscatlán International Airport (SAL; tel. 503/2339-9455; www.cepa.gob.sv/aies) is 44km (27 miles) and a roughly 45-minute drive from San Salvador. Cuscatlán International is serviced by major North American carriers such as American, Delta, and Continental, as well as Latin American carriers Copa and Mexicana. It's also a major hub for Taca airlines, with direct flights to major American cities.

To get to the capital from the airport, take bus no. 138, which costs $2. Alternatively, you can arrange transportation with your hotel or pay $25 for one of the taxis waiting by the airport exit.

By Bus -- There are three main bus terminals in the city servicing different sectors of the country, plus the small, private terminals of the plusher international bus companies. The public stations are chaotic and busy. Some lines have different categories. Directo is a misnomer, as these buses usually stop everywhere, much like the ordinarios. Especial generally has A/C, comfy seats, TV, and many fewer stops.

Terminal de Oriente (Final de Av. Peralta and Blvd. del Ejército; tel. 503/2271-4171) is 4km (2 1/2 miles) from the city center and serves the east and north of the country. You can catch bus no. 29 or 52 from Boulevard de los Héroes, but the drop-off is at a busy roundabout that you must cross by a pedestrian walkway if you are going into the city. It is much more convenient to catch a taxi. Buses here leave for the Honduran border (3 hr.), as well as San Miguel (2 1/2 hr.) and Suchitoto (1 1/2 hr.).

Terminal de Occidente (Blvd. Venezuela, Colonia Roma; tel. 503/2223-5609) is located closer to the city center, 1.5km (1 mile) southwest of Parque Cuscatlán. It serves the west of the country, including the southwestern coast and most of the Guatemalan border. Main destinations include Joya de Cerén (1 1/4 hr.), La Libertad (1 hr), Lago de Coatepeque (40 min.), Los Cóbanos (2 hr.), Santa Ana (1 1/2 hr.), and Sonsonete (1 1/2 hr.).

Terminal del Sur, also known as Terminal San Marco (Carretera a Aeropuerto; no phone) is 5km (3 miles) south of the city and serves the south and southeast of the country. Bus 26 goes to and fro from the city center. The station's main destinations are Costa del Sol (2 1/2 hr.), Zacatecoluca (1 1/2 hr.), and Usulután (2 1/2 hr.).

You can take Tica Bus (tel. 503/2243-9764; www.ticabus.com), which is one of Central America's largest and most luxurious carriers, with destinations throughout Central America, from the San Carlos Terminal (Calle Concepción #121, at the San Salvador Hotel; tel. 503/2243-9764) and San Benito Terminal (Blvd. del Hipódromo; tel. 503/2243-9764). King Quality/Comfort Lines (tel. 503/2271-3330; www.kingqualityca.com) has two terminals: Terminal Puerto Bus (3a Calle Poniente and Alameda San Juan Pablio II) and Zona Rosa (Blvd. de Hipódromo and Av. La Revolución). Pullmantur (tel. 503/2243-1300; www.pullmantur.com) operates from the Hotel Sheraton Presidente, Avenida La Revolución, Zona Rosa.

When to Go

Festivals

The Festival of El Salvador in early August marks a nearly countrywide vacation during which everyone who can heads to their vacation spot of choice. Schools and businesses close so that communities throughout the country can host parades, celebrations, and religious processions honoring Jesus Christ ("El Salvador'') as the patron saint of the country. The largest celebrations are here in the nation's capital.

Getting Around

By Bus -- Buses rule the road in San Salvador and are a great way to see the city, since they stop frequently and go just about everywhere. Bus no. 30b is the line you'll most need to remember. The 30b will take you from Metrocentro (Blvd. de los Héreos and Calle Sisimiles) across town to Zona Rosa and within walking distance of the city's two major museums. Most intercity buses can be taken from in front of the Metrocentro mall. To travel across the city from El Centro, take bus no. 101 to the Plaza de Las Américas, where you can hop on no. 30b.

Most buses cost 25¢ to 35¢ and run between 5am to 7:30pm daily, with less frequent service on Sundays. The CORSATUR tourist office can provide additional bus route information.

By Taxi -- You might want to consider using a cab instead of the bus, depending on how far you're traveling -- it costs only about $4 to take a cab many places in the city. Exact fares vary, depending on your negotiating skills, the driver, and whether or not the cab has a meter. If you speak Spanish, you'll get the best deal by finding a cab without a meter and negotiating a price before getting into the cab. If the taxi has a meter, demand at least an estimate of the cost before agreeing to the trip.

San Salvador has numerous taxicab companies, any of which can be safely hailed on the street during daytime as long as you use a traditional-looking taxi (yellow with a little taxi sign on top).

By Car -- Getting around by rental car is a great way to see El Salvador and a horrible way to see San Salvador. The city's roads are packed and not well marked. A wrong turn can send you into a neighborhood you'd rather not visit or into the midst of a bustling street market. Since taxis are relatively inexpensive and easy to grab, and local buses are cheap and numerous, I recommend leaving your rental at your hotel or renting a car on your way out of the city.

San Salvador offers plenty of local and international rental agencies. Avis tel. 503/2339-9268), Budget (airport office tel. 503/2339-9942; city office tel. 503/2264-3888), Hertz (tel. 503/2339-8004), Thrifty (tel. 503/2339-9947), Alamo (tel. 503/2367-8000), and National (tel. 503/2367-8001) all have airport and downtown San Salvador locations. Locally, Brothers Rent A Car (Centro Commercial Feria Rosa bldg. H, local 208, in front of Casa Presidencial; tel. 503/2218-1856) offers the best deals. Rates range from $40 to $150 a day with taxes and insurance.

On Foot -- Both of San Salvador's main tourist centers, El Centro and Zona Rosa, are highly walkable. It's in between those neighborhoods where you'll need transportation. El Centro's attractions are centered around the main square, Plaza Barrios, and most of Zona Rosa's sights are along walkable Boulevard del Hipódromo. The city's major museums in the Colonia San Benito neighborhood are also within walking distance of each other.

Fast Facts

Banks, ATMs & Traveler's Checks -- San Salvador offers a plentiful supply of the nation's major banks, and ATMs here accept most common international cards. The best and safest locations are in the city's many malls. Bank hours generally run from 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, with a half-day on Saturday from 9am to noon. A Banco Cuscatlán (tel. 503/2212-2000) is in the Galerías Escalón mall along Paseo General Escalón. Banco de América Central (tel. 503/2254-9980) is also located on Paseo General Escalón. On Boulevard de los Héroes, there is a Banco Cuscatlán (tel. 503/2212-2000, ext. 4205) located on the intersection with Avenida Izalco and a Scotiabank (tel. 503/2260-9038) located in the Metro Sur mall. In the city center, you'll find a Banco Cuscatlán on Avenida Cuscatlán and a Scotiabank on 2a Calle Poniente. Most of the above banks will cash traveler's checks.

Drugstores -- Farmacia Super Medco (Av. La Revolución and Blvd. Hipódromo, Zona Rosa; tel. 503/2243-3599) is open 24 hours with an all-night service window on Boulevard Hipódromo. Farmacia Rowalt (Av. Los Sisimiles and Av. Sierra Nevada, close to Blvd. de los Héroes; tel. 503/2261-0515) also dispenses 24/7 and delivers from 8am to 5pm. Just ring the doorbell if it appears closed. In the city center, try Farmacia Principal (Calle Delgado 227; tel. 503/2222-8093), open daily 8:30am to 8pm.

Emergencies -- The general emergency number is tel. 911. Ambulances can be reached directly at tel. 503/2222-5155 and the fire department at tel. 503/2555-7300. Police can be contacted at tel. 503/2261-0630.

Hospitals -- The best medical care is at the modern Hospital de Diagnóstico Escalón (99 Av. Norte, Plaza Villavicencio; tel. 503/2264-4422). Hospital de Diagnóstico (Calle 21 Poniente and 2a Diagonal, Blvd. de los Héroes; tel. 503/2226-8878) is a well-respected and good-value private clinic.

Post Office -- Correos Central (15 Calle Poniente and 19 Av. Norte, Centro Gobierno, El Centro; tel. 503/2555-7600) is the main post office and is open weekdays 7:30am to 5pm and Saturday 8am to noon. There is a another Correos outlet located on the second floor of the Metrocentro, open weekdays 8am to 7pm and Saturday 8am to noon. DHL (tel. 503/2264-2708) has an office on Avenidas Alberto Masferrer Norte. It is open weekdays 8am to 5pm and Saturday 8am to noon.

Internet -- There are plenty of Internet cafes in the city center, yet very few in the upscale residential zones like Colonia Escalón. Most offer Internet calls and CD burning. Charges vary from $1 to $2 an hour. Cyber Café Genus (Av. Izalco 102-A, Blvd. de los Héroes; tel. 503/2226-5221) is open weekdays 9am to 11pm and Saturday 10am to 8pm. PC Station (Metro Sur, Blvd. de los Héroes; tel. 503/2257-5791) is another option in the same area. It is open Monday to Saturday 7am to 10pm and Sunday 9am to 7pm. In the city center, go to Ciber Shack (2a Av. Sur and 4a Calle Ote; no phone). It's open Monday to Saturday 7:30am to 6:30pm.

Laundry -- Most hotels offer laundry service, but beware, some are guilty of price gouging and charge as much as $5 per item instead of $5 per load. Lavapronto (Av. Los Sisimiles 2949, Blvd. de los Héroes; tel. 503/2260-1702) is fast, reliable, and cheap. It is open weekdays 7am to 6pm and Saturday 7am to 5pm.

Restrooms -- There are no public toilets in the city except in shopping malls. However, ask nicely in any restaurant, and you'll have no problems.

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