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A destination for traditional Basque seafood dishes since 1947, this modest spot began as a meeting place for fishermen’s eating clubs and has persisted over the years because its chefs always seem to manage to get the top of the catch. There are four dining rooms of various traditional decor, but you don’t go here so much for ambience as for the food. Fish and shellfish are prepared simply: grilled, baked, sometimes steamed. The classic hake cheeks in pil pil is probably the most ordered dish on the menu, but to branch out you could try char-grilled line-caught red sea bream (a member of the bass family), tangy with salt. Meat dishes are limited, but the chef is proud of his filet mignon served with a torchon of foie gras, grilled red piquillo peppers, and sautéed mushrooms.