This very traditional 2-centuries-old place with coffered wood ceilings has a mélange of trattoria artifacts crowding the walls. The genial owner, Alessio, would rather recite what the kitchen is most proud of that night than break out an impersonal menu. Everything is fresh, the pasta is made by hand, and though the kitchen sticks to antique recipes, it does trim meats lean, and they won't look askance if you order a porzione ridotto (small portion). The cappelli d'Alpino con pasta verde (ricotta and veggies stuffed into spinach ravioli) is the primo to order. Afterward, try the veal stewed with pears or duck roasted with wild fennel.