St. Francis of Assisi was a rich aristocrat who give up a life of luxury to follow an ascetic path of devotion. The hotel named after him offers the best of these two extremes, combining a simple, historic elegance with modern luxury. Pillar candles flicker on the plaster walls and wide stone floors in the lobby, while the rooms are sparely but tastefully decorated, with high ceilings and casement windows. The three-story National Historic Register property offers a relaxed cosmopolitan vibe, with a multilingual concierge and high tea in the lobby every afternoon. (Don't miss the cherubs above the Victorian fireplace in the lobby, a motif that's repeated elsewhere.) Some of the rooms are small, as is the fitness center. The hotel has an acclaimed New Mexican restaurant, Tabla de Los Santos, and the Secreto wine and cocktail bar, with its sidewalk loggia, is one of my favorite places in town for a drink and street-side people-watching.