Among Santa Fe’s fine-dining classics, after a brief closure the Compound reopened in 2000 under executive chef/owner Mark Kiffin, who was named James Beard Best Chef of the Southwest in 2005. Kiffin kept the old white adobe walls, brightened with folk art chosen by designer Alexander Girard (of Folk Art Museum fame), but revamped the menu completely. Traditional regional ingredients brought to the area by the Spanish are joined by Mediterranean influences to create dishes like wild mushrooms and organic stone-ground polenta with black truffle relish. The menu also includes organic Scottish salmon, braised lamb shank, and grilled beef tenderloin. Even lunch entrees are a cut above, from the house-cured pastrami sandwich to the Wagyu beef burger. (If you order the latter, don’t pass on the roasted poblanos and white cheddar.) Definitely try the bittersweet chocolate cake for dessert. The Compound’s prices put it in splurge-only territory for many, but the elegant-yet-comfortable setting and friendly service make this an excellent choice in a city full of high-end possibilities. There is full liquor service.