The young chef here, Gonzalo Rei, is one to watch, as he counts himself a disciple of Joan Roca of El Cellar de Can Roca. You can look out the windows in the suave contemporary restaurant and see the towers of the cathedral in the distance, but as long as you’re eating here, you might as well be a world away from hearty pilgrim food. Rei serves modernized Galician food with a creative flair and an emphasis on fresh, local products. For example, he uses mackerel from A Coruña in a couscous with cream peas, crunchy bits of Iberian ham, and wilted spinach. Roasted capon is paired with truffle and served on a bed of quinoa laced with sautéed green peppers.