Major hotels work with quality tour operators and can recommend a tour even at the last minute; however, you'd be better off planning ahead and reserving a tour with an operator who can show you the more interesting side of Santiago or who is more attuned to foreign guests' desires or needs (that is, a guide who is truly bilingual). The following tours are operated by Chilean-American outfits.

Culinary Tour: Hip Santiago Centro presents a way to see, and taste, a different side of Santiago. Tours are led by American expat Liz Caskey. The tour kicks off with a walking tour through a typical farmers' market in the old-fashioned Brasil neighborhood, followed by a visit to the Mercado Central and a walk through the picturesque Parque Forestal neighborhood, and then to Liz's spacious apartment overlooking the park for a three-course lunch expertly paired with fine wines. Guests are welcome to join in on the cooking if they wish. Tours are available Monday through Saturday and depart at 10:30am. The tour lasts about 4 to 5 hours. For more information and a price quote, contact tel. 2/226-6939 or 9/821-9230, or visit www.lizcaskey.com.

Santiago Adventures offers a half-day historical and cultural tour of the city, beginning in the Plaza de Armas and visiting La Moneda, the París-Londres neighborhood, the San Francisco colonial church, the Bellavista neighborhood, and the Cerro San Cristóbal. Daily tours are half-day (4 hr.) and visitors may choose one museum to visit: Cousiño Macul museum, the Pre-Columbian Museum, or Pablo Neruda's house. Tours cost $85 (£57) per person, based on two people (price goes down as group size grows), and includes entrance fees, a bilingual guide, transportation, and bottled water. Santiago Adventures can be reached at tel. 2/244-2750 or www.santiagoadventures.com.