Visitor Information

The National Tourism Service (Sernatur) office is at Av. Providencia 1550 (tel. 600/SERNATUR [737-6288]; www.sernatur.cl; Metro: Manuel Montt), open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 2pm. Sernatur also has a small information desk, with hotel information and maps, on the departure level of the airport open daily from 9am to 5pm (no phone). The Santiago Municipality has an Oficina de Turismo inside the Casa Colorada at Merced 860 (tel. 2/632-7783), with limited information about downtown Santiago attractions only. Also downtown, at the south side of Cerro Santa Lucía at Avenida Alameda, is a tourism office (tel. 2/664-4216). The Yellow Pages has detailed maps of the entire city of Santiago, or you can pick up a pocket guide to the city, called Map City (www.mapcity.com), sold at newsstands and kiosks, for $7 (£4.70).

City Layout

Santiago incorporates 32 comunas, or neighborhoods, although most visitors will find they spend their time in just a few. Downtown, or el centro, is the thriving financial, political, and historic center of Santiago, although it has been losing clout as more companies opt to locate their offices in burgeoning neighborhoods such as Providencia, Las Condes, and the tiny area that separates the two, El Golf (also known as El Bosque). These upscale, modern neighborhoods are residential areas centered on a bustling strip of shopping galleries, restaurants, and office buildings. El centro is older and scruffier, with the exception of the small but charming Lastarría/Parque Forestal micro-neighborhood, an up-and-coming arts and cafe community. Still, while it may not be easy on the eye or the nerves, centro remains the city's microcosm and the most rewarding place to get under the skin of Santiago's urban matrix.

The well-heeled residential neighborhood Vitacura, north of Las Condes and south of the Mapocho River, and spliced by the thoroughfare Avenida Kennedy, is home to Santiago's luxury shopping and many gourmet restaurants. The sleepy, middle-class residential communities Ñuñoa and La Reina offer few attractions and, therefore, little of interest to the visitor, with the exception of Plaza Ñuñoa and its booming restaurant and bar scene. Santiago is bisected by the Río Mapocho, a muddy river that alternately rushes or trickles down from the Andes and is bordered through downtown and Providencia by the grassy Parque Forestal. On the north side of the Mapocho rises the hill Cerro San Cristóbal, a 880m (2,886-ft.) forested park with lookout points over the city. At the foot of the hill is the bohemian neighborhood Bellavista, another restaurant haven and happening night spot. Note that the principal avenue that runs through downtown is called Avenida Alameda by absolutely everyone, but its official moniker is Avenida Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins.

Getting Around

By Metro

Cheap, clean, and efficient, the Metro subway (www.metrosantiago.cl) is by far the fastest and most agreeable way to get around the city. It's also an attraction in its own right -- stations are adorned with murals painted by some of Chile's most important artists. Unfortunately, it is now the most congested transport option, especially during rush hour from 7 to 10am and 5 to 7pm, when critical mass reaches an estimated six users per square meter. The Metro is considered to be generally safe; however, pickpocket incidents are on the rise with the new influx of passengers, so keep a sharp eye on your belongings.

There are five Metro lines. Line 1 is the principal Metro line for travelers, as it runs from Las Condes to attractions and bus stations downtown. Line 2 transfers from Line 1 at Los Heroes and stops at Cal y Canto (near the Mercado Central). Lines 4 and 4a are residential lines connecting Avenida Alameda with La Reina. Line 5 takes travelers transferring at Baquedano to Plaza de Armas and the Quinta Normal park. Note: Lines 3 and 6 are not scheduled for completion until 2015.

A prepaid bip card is the only way to pay for travel on Santiago's existing public transport system. Cards (tarjetas) can be purchased at Metro stations, various banks (Banco de Chile and Banco Santander), various commercial locations throughout the city, and designated Punto bip centres. Minimum Tarjeta bip credit is 800 pesos ($1.35/90p) going up to a maximum of 2,500 pesos ($43/£29). A one-way bus fare costs 380 pesos (65¢/45p), permitting three transfers within 120 minutes. If you then transfer from the bus to the Metro, you will be required to pay an additional 40 pesos (5¢/3p). If you begin your journey on the Metro, the initial fare costs 420 pesos (70¢/45p). You must validate your Tarjeta bip card prior to each journey or else risk being charged for fare evasion.

Transantiago: Mass Transit Mayhem -- Arguably the most loathed word in the Chilean lexicon, Transantiago, the integrated transport system introduced in February 2007, has provoked chaos on an unprecedented scale. The most ambitious transport reform undertaken by a developing country, Transantiago was introduced via a "big bang" approach rather than as a gradually phased-in scheme. The ensuing mayhem was reflected in President Michelle Bachelet's approval rating, which fell from 55.2% to 42.7% in the month following the system's introduction. With decreased bus routes, an increased route network, and insufficient infrastructure to deal with the complexities of a prepay system, travelers have opted to use the more efficient Metro. Since 2007, the Metro has been overwhelmed by increased passenger numbers (riders jumped from 1,300,000 to 2,200,000 that year). Government initiatives imply that the flaws in the system will be gradually smoothed out, dispersing the congestion to an expansion of the bus route network, however.

By Bus

The Santiago bus system has undergone an overhaul in the last few years. Old yellow buses have been replaced with new gleaming white-and-green "Transantiago" coaches, which you cannot ride without a bip transit card. If you do not have a bip card, you can still pay cash on the local feeder buses, but at a higher rate and without the possibility of free transfers.

By Taxi

Taxis are reasonably priced and plentiful. They are identifiable by their black exterior and yellow roof; there's also a light in the corner of the windshield that displays a taxi's availability. Always check to see that the meter is in plain view, to avoid rip-offs. Drivers do not expect tips. Do not confuse taxis with colectivos, which are similar in appearance but without the yellow roof -- these are local, shared taxis with fixed routes that are too confusing to visitors to recommend taking one.

Fares are low compared to North American and European cities. The starting fare is 250 pesos (40¢/25p), then 60 pesos (10¢/5p) for every subsequent 200m. Drivers are permitted to charge more at night, so always check the rates (usually indicated on the window) before you get in; also try to get a verbal estimate of your fare and have small bills handy to avoid scams, which are frequent. It doesn't hurt to research your route in advance, either, as many taxi drivers don't have special knowledge of the city's layout.

By Car

Do not rent a vehicle if staying within metropolitan Santiago, but consider doing so if you are an independent traveler seeking to visit the coast, Cajón de Maipo, or wine country. Santiago's slick new Costanera Norte (an express transit tunnel that runs from La Dehesa and Las Condes to the Pan-American Hwy. and the airport) has entrances and exits along the River Mapocho, but finding one can be confusing, so check out the website www.costaneranorte.cl for a map, or ask your rental agency or hotel to guide you. The city's "TAG" system (TAG stands for an automatic toll that is charged electronically to the vehicle) is included in the rental price. Downtown Santiago, and the entire length of Avenida Alameda/Avenida Providencia are not recommended for timid drivers. Buses and other drivers steadfastly refuse to let other vehicles merge into their lane, so be prepared early to turn or exit a highway.

Rentals -- At the airport you'll find most international rental agencies, such as Alamo (tel. 2/690-1370; www.alamo.com), Avis (tel. 2/690-1382; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 2/690-1233; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 2/202-5510; www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel. 2/601-0977; www.hertz.com), and local agency Rosselot (tel. 800/201298). All agencies have downtown or Providencia offices. Generally, Rosselot and Dollar are lower in cost. Many hotels also offer competitive rates and can pick up and drop off the car.

Driving Tips -- On weekdays, the two yellow lanes running the length of Avenida Alameda (which changes its name to Providencia, 11 de Septiembre, and Apoquindo in other neighborhoods) are bus lanes, and drivers of vehicles may enter only when preparing to make a right turn. Take care with speed limits (120kmph) on the main highways out of town, especially Ruta 5 where carabinieros (police officers) wield radars and purvey hefty fines.

It's a good idea to arrive in town with some maps, as gas stations are often sold out of maps and rental agencies usually do not stock any, especially regional maps. The Turistel road guide website (www.turistel.cl) has helpful route maps that can be printed.

Parking -- Every hotel, with the exception of budget hostals, offers on-site, free parking. There is no street parking downtown except Saturdays and Sundays, although there are underground lots called estacionamientos that are recognizable by a blue sign marked with a giant E. In Providencia, along Avenida Providencia, there is a series of expensive underground lots. Santiago meters busy streets in Providencia and Bellavista, which is done by an official meter maid who waits on the street and times and charges drivers -- he or she will leave a white ticket on your windshield. On commercial streets where there is no meter maid, you'll find the cuidador, an unofficial, ragtag "caretaker" who will "watch" your car for you. You're expected to give him or her a tip of 100 to 300 pesos (15¢-50¢/10p-35p) when you leave your space. Cuidadores can be aggressive if you elect not to pay them.

Do not under any circumstances leave valuable items in your car if you park on the street; break-ins are frequent in all of Chile. Car theft is common, too, so always park your vehicle in a lot overnight.

On Foot

Santiago is not laid out on a perfect grid system; however, the neighborhoods most visitors stick to run along the length of the Mapocho River, making the river a good point of reference. Always carry a map with you. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are quieter days to explore neighborhoods such as downtown. Pedestrians should be alert at all times and never stand too close to sidewalk curbs because buses roar by dangerously close to sidewalks. Drivers are not always polite enough to give the right of way to pedestrians, so cross streets quickly and with your eyes wide open.

Fast Facts

American Express -- The American Express office is at Av. Isidora Goyenechea 3621, Piso 10 (tel. 2/350-6700); open Monday through Friday from 9am to 2pm and 3:30 to 5pm. Twenty-four-hour customer service in the U.S. is at tel. 800/545-1171, although you will be charged for the call if you call from outside of the United States.

Banks -- Banks are open from 9am to 2pm Monday through Friday, closed on Saturday and Sunday. You don't have to look hard in the downtown area to find an ATM, referred to as "Redbancs" and identified by a maroon-and-white logo sticker. Many commercial outlets also have ATMs. These machines accept Visa/PLUS and MasterCard/Cirrus. Redbancs can also be found in most gas stations and pharmacies.

Business Hours -- Commercial business hours are Monday through Friday from 10am to 7pm, closing for lunch between 1 and 1:30pm and reopening between 2:30 and 3pm. Most stores are open from 10am to 2pm on Saturday and closed on Sunday, with the exception of shopping malls.

Currency Exchange -- All major banks exchange currency, but most charge a commission that is higher than a money-exchange house (casa de cambio). In downtown, there are numerous exchange houses on Agustinas between Ahumada and Bandera: Bombero, Ossa 1053 (tel. 2/698-1703); Transpacific, Augustinas 1028 (tel. 2/232-1176). In Providencia, exchange houses are around Avenida Pedro de Valdivia at Avenida Providencia. In Las Condes, there are a couple on Avenida El Bosque Norte near Avenida Apoquindo. Exchange houses are generally open Monday through Friday from 9am to 2pm and 4 to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 1 or 2pm. Hotels exchange dollars at an unfavorable rate.

Emergencies -- For a police emergency, call tel. 133. For fire, call tel. 132. To call an ambulance, dial tel. 131.

Hospital -- The American Embassy can provide a list of medical specialists in Santiago. The best hospitals in Santiago are private: Clínica Las Condes, Lo Fontecilla 441 (tel. 2/210-4000); Clínica Alemana, Vitacura 5951 (tel. 2/210-1111); and Clínica Indisa Santa María, Av. Santa María 01810 (tel. 2/362-5555).

Internet Access -- Every hotel has a computer with Internet connection for its guests, and many hotels (mostly large chains) now offer free Wi-Fi in guest rooms or in public areas. There is an abundance of Internet centers in the downtown area; popular cafes include Café.com, at Alameda 143, and Sonnets Internet Café, at Londres 43.

Outdoor Equipment -- Parque Arauco mall has a North Face clothing store (tel. 2/201-3679). Locally produced, high-quality outdoor gear company Doite (tel. 2/213-1223) is in the Alto los Condes mall; Patagonia Sport is in Providencia at Almirante Simpson 77 (tel. 2/222-9140). The best outdoor equipment and info can be found at La Cumbre, Apoquindo 5220 (tel. 2/220-9907; www.lacumbreonline.cl), which is open Monday through Friday 11am to 8pm and Saturday 11am to 4pm.

Pharmacies -- Pharmacies are ubiquitous in Santiago, and can even be found in gas stations along major highways. They're generally open from 8am to midnight; however, the following branches are open 24 hours: Farmacias Ahumada (tel. 600/222-4000; Av. El Bosque 164); and Farmacias Salco Brand (tel. 600/360-6000; Av. Padre Hurtado, at Av. Las Condes). Both of these pharmacies deliver for a nominal fee.

Post Office -- The main post office is on Plaza de Armas (Mon-Fri 8:30am-7pm; Sat 8:30am-1pm). There are other branches at Moneda 1155, in downtown, and Av. 11 de Septiembre 2239, in Providencia. FedEx is at Av. Providencia 1951, and in the Dimacofi center at Moneda 792 (tel. 2/361-6000; Mon-Fri 9am-7pm).

Telephone -- Tourists are offered cheaper rates from phone centers than from their hotels. The centers are predominately run by Entel (at Morandé btw. Huérfanos and Compañía) and Telefónica CTC Chile (found inside the Metro stations Universidad de Chile and Moneda, and in Providencia at the Mall Panorámico at Av. 11 de Septiembre 2155). Most phone centers have fax service and Internet access as well. Alternatively, you can buy a phone card at any kiosk, gas station, corner store, or telephone center, but ask your hotel if you are charged for the local connection -- chain hotels can really stick it to you even though you're using a phone card.

Getting There

By Plane

Santiago's Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez Airport (SCL; tel. 2/690-1900; www.aeropuertosantiago.cl) is served by LAN, Air Comet, Aerolínea Principal, and Sky, in addition to most major international carriers. The relatively new airport has plenty of restaurants (the best dining options are to be found when you have passed through the security and immigration checks) and souvenir stands, and a Vinoteca wine shop for last-minute purchases.

Once you pass through Customs, there is a small currency exchange kiosk. To the left and right of the passenger gate there are cash machines. Men in olive jumpsuits at the arrival gate and the outdoor-departure curb work as airport bellhops, and they will assist you with your luggage for a 1,000 to 2,000 peso tip (about $1.70-$3.40/£1.15-£2.25).

Depending on traffic, your Santiago destination, and how you get there, the city can be reached in 20 to 45 minutes. Most hotels offer a private car or van pickup for about $25 (£17). An official taxi to Santiago costs between $25 and $30 (£17-£20), depending on your destination. Tip: A gauntlet of taxi drivers vie for business at the exit gate, but play it safe and buy a taxi ride at one of the official counters located just as you exit the gate, to avoid getting ripped off. More economical options are the minivan transfer shuttles TransVip (tel. 2/677-3000; www.transvip.net) and Tur Transfer (tel. 2/677-3600; www.turtransfer.cl) that charge, per person, $8 (£5.30) for downtown Santiago and $10 (£6.70) to Las Condes. Tickets can be purchased in both the domestic and international arrivals areas. For outbound passengers leaving Santiago for the airport, both companies prefer that reservations are made 1 day in advance. The drawback with this service is that you may stop at several other destinations before arriving at your own. Cheaper yet are bus services that depart from the far ends of the arrival curb and drop passengers downtown, from where they can take the Metro or a taxi. Hotels can also arrange taxis on a fixed fare basis which, depending on your hotel and negotiation skills, tends to be much cheaper, at about $23 (£15). The blue bus Centropuerto leaves every 10 minutes from 6am to 11:30pm and drops passengers at Los Héroes Metro station on the main avenue Alameda. Tur Bus leaves every 30 minutes from 6:30am to midnight, dropping passengers off at Terminal Alameda at the Universidad de Santiago Metro station. The cost is $2.50 (£1.70).

By Bus

There are four bus stations in Santiago. The station for international arrivals and departures to and from destinations in southern Chile is Terminal Buses Estación Central, formerly known as the Terminal Santiago and not to be confused with the actual Estación Central train station and Metro stop; it's located at Alameda 3850 (tel. 2/376-1755; Metro: Universidad de Santiago). The Terminal Alameda next door at Alameda 3750 is the terminal for the Pullman and Tur Bus companies, two well-respected, high-quality services. For departures to northern and central Chile, you'll go to Terminal San Borja, Alameda 3250 (tel. 2/776-0645; Metro: Estación Central). The smaller Terminal Los Héroes, Tucapel Jiménez 21 (tel. 2/423-9530; Metro: Los Héroes), has service to a variety of destinations in both northern and southern Chile as well as a clutch of international destinations.

By Train

Santiago is serviced by the state owned Empresa de los Farrocarriles del Estado (EFE), which provides modern and comfortable service to Chillán, stopping first in Rancagua, San Fernando, and Talca, and passing through beautiful, pastoral landscapes. For reference, prices in 2008 from Santiago to Chillán were $13 to $15 (£8.70-£10) one-way for "salon" class, and $26 to $28 (£17-£19) one-way for "preferred" class, which has seats that recline to 140 degrees. Tickets purchased online are 10% cheaper. There is a snack and beverage service car. Call EFE or check the website for updated information (tel. 600/585-5000; www.efe.cl), or check with your travel agent or hotel for a reservation.

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