Step into an Edward Hopper painting at this classic soda fountain in the heart of the chi chi Providencia neighborhood. With green vinyl booths, twirly counter stools, a checkerboard floor, and lighting as harsh as Judgement Day, the setting is a throwback to the 1950s. It's fascinating to see that a Santiago diner would have looked just like its counterpart in New York City. The fare, however, has some marked differences, especially here, as chef Juan Pablo Mellado Arana has taken Chilean comfort foods—pot roast, say, or a mound of mayonaisse-y shrimp atop a perfectly creamy avocado half—and elevated them with superior ingredients and techniques. The highlight of a meal: the lamb testicles cooked in their own stock (no, I'm not kidding). Velvety in texture, bobbing in a soup with just the right lemony tang, even the squeamish will find they want to lick the plate clean (after posting pictures on social media, of course). While most Chilean diners don’t have a full bar, this one does, and it serves mean pisco sour, either Chilean- or Peruvian-style. One warning: portions are huge, and the food is rich, so plan to share.