The antiques stalls at Anticuarios Mapocho, at Mapocho and Brasil streets (daily 10am-late afternoon) near Parque Los Reyes, sell a high-quality selection of antique furniture, paintings, sculptures, jewelry, and one-of-a-kind keepsakes at very affordable prices. For large, heavy items, always check shipping costs (which can be excruciatingly expensive) before you buy; many stallholders will be able to arrange shipping. The market is within the confines of one huge red warehouse on the other side of the Panamericana, so a taxi here is about $4 (£2.70) from the Plaza de Armas; or take the Metro to Santa Ana station, head west on Catedral Street for 3 blocks to Avenida Brasil, turn right, and walk north 8 blocks until you reach Mapocho Street.
On Saturdays and Sundays, the parallel streets of Bío Bío and Franklin are transformed into a lively flea market. If you have the patience and luck, amid the bric-a-brac you can often discover eclectic antiques and handicrafts. Take the Metro to Franklin and then walk north to the intersection with Victor Manuel.
A collection of antiques stores can be found clustered around Malaquias Concha and Caupolican streets, between Condell and Italia avenues. Considering that there are only a few shops, however, I recommend visiting only if you have a lot of time or are seeking an enjoyable walk; the neighborhood here is antique and a very pleasant place for a stroll. In Vitacura, at Candelería Goyenechea 3820, the ground floor of the Anfiteatro Lo Castillo has two dozen antiques stores with beautiful European antiques at astronomical prices and more than a whiff of pretentiousness. Another pricey collection of antiques shops can be found at Calle Bucarest and Avenida Providencia, selling paintings, china, furniture, and nearly every knickknack imaginable. Lastly, the Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro, on Lastarría Street at Rosal, has a small antiques fair (mostly china, purses, and jewelry) on Saturday and Sunday from about 9am to 5pm.
Arts & Crafts
Artesanías de Chile, Av. Bellavista 0357 (tel. 2/777-8643; www.artesaniasdechile.cl), is the public face of the Chilean Crafts Foundation, which promotes and sells the work of local artisans. The store offers simply stunning arts and crafts and other handiwork, including intricate hand-woven textiles from the Aymara Indians, clay pottery from Pomaire, Mapuche silver jewelry, hand-woven baskets, and woodcarvings. Artesanías has a small stand within Patio Bellavista, and a branch in the Centro Cultural with interpretative information and a small store.
Two stores specializing in less-traditional artesania, with arts and crafts produced by contemporary artists, are Observatorio Lastarría, at Lastarría 395 (tel. 2/632-4588; www.elobservatorio.cl), and Ona Chile, at Victoria Subercaseaux 295, across from Cerro Santa Lucía (tel. 2/632-1859). Driven by a commitment to cultural and environmental conservation, the Observatorio has books, clothing made from local fibers, and ceramics for the home, and the shop is part of a larger arts center that often features temporary exhibitions, a sleek cafe and "La Cava," a wine cellar offering tastings, and workshops. Ona has a beautiful range of high-quality and unique artesanía, including alpaca shawls, cacique ponchos, ceramics, paintings, sculptures, jewelry, and other Patagonia and Ona Indian-themed art pieces.
Surprisingly, English language books are far from ubiquitous and most stores have a limited selection of bestsellers. You'll find the largest selection of English-language books at the English Reader, Av. Los Leones 116 (tel. 2/334-7388; www.englishreader.cl), a bookstore with hundreds of new and used titles and a small selection of U.S. magazines. They also have a cafe which is quite the bohemian hangout. Librería Inglesa sells English-language literature, nonfiction, and children's books in shops at Av. Pedro de Valdivia 47 (tel. 2/231-6270); Paseo Huérfanos 669, Local 11 (tel. 2/632-5153); and Vitacura 5950 (tel. 2/219-2735). For the largest selection of books in Spanish, the Feria Chilena del Libro, Paseo Huérfanos 623 (tel. 2/345-8300), is your best bet, and it sells local and national maps. It has a smaller branch in Providencia at Santa Magdalena 50 (tel. 2/232-1422). Also in Providencia, Libro's, Pedro de Valdivia 039 (tel. 2/232-8839), is the place to come for an array of U.S. and English magazines, with everything from Vogue and Vanity Fair to The Face and GQ. It also has a small selection of other English-language titles.
The fashionista set flock to Bellavista, a neighborhood filled with shops stocking quirky and original garments. Try Hall Central, José Victorino Lastarria 316 (tel. 2/664-0763), a flamboyant fashion store located in a stately 20th-century mansion. For feminine attire with Asian flair, Kebo, Av. Ismael Valdés Vergara 490 (tel. 2/639-5537), purveys the designs of local fashion diva Carla Godoy. Tampu, Av. Merced 327 (tel. 2/638-7992), presents modern renditions of the traditional weaving techniques of the Mapuche, Aymara, and Ona tribal cultures, with a funky range of sweaters and jewelry.
In Providencia, centered upon General Holley, Suecia, and Bucarest streets, you'll find the city's more expensive, upscale clothing boutiques. Chile's version of Rodeo Drive is Alonso de Córdova in the Vitacura neighborhood, where you will find the familiar designer-label fashion houses in addition to small chi chi boutiques featuring the work of established Chilean designers.
Food & Wine
If you're in Bellavista, try to make a stop at the Emporio Nacional, Av. Bellavista 0360 (tel. 2/481-3820; www.emporionacional.cl). Built to resemble a late-1800s-era emporium, this shop is utterly charming, and it is the only shop in Santiago with specialty food products from all over Chile, including cured meats, jams, pickled vegetables, smoked salmon, dried nuts and fruits, plus a boutique wine shop. Tip: Emporio Nacional is the perfect one-stop shop for picnic supplies. Visit this shop in tandem with the Artesanías de Chile, as it's nearby.
Supermarkets offer a wide selection of more traditional wines at cheaper prices than specialty shops. For those hard-to-get wines you won't find back in the U.S., try El Mundo del Vino at Av. Isidora Goyenechea 2931 (tel. 2/584-1172; www.elmundodelvino.cl), open Monday through Wednesday 10:30am to 8:30pm, Thursday through Saturday 10am to 9pm, and Sunday 11am to 6pm. El Mundo del Vino has an extensive selection and knowledgeable staff, but my pick for wine stores is undoubtedly La Vinoteca (tel. 2/334-1987), at Av. Isidora Goyenechea 3520, and open Monday through Friday from 10am to 9pm, Saturday 10am to 8pm. La Vinoteca's sales team really know their stuff, and the shop specializes in boutique and hard-to-find wines. Also, La Vinoteca has a shop in the airport; if you buy a case here, they'll wrap it up so you can check it like luggage.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.