Planning a trip to Santorini
The real wonder of Santorini is that it exceeds all glossy picture-postcard expectations. Like an enormous crescent moon, the island encloses the pure blue waters of its caldera, the core of an ancient volcano. Its two principal towns, Fira and Oia (also transliterated as Ia), perch at the summit of the caldera; as you approach by ship, bending back as far as possible to look up the cliffs, whitewashed houses look like a dusting of new snow on the mountaintop. Up close, you'll find that both towns' main streets have more shops (lots of jewelry shops), restaurants, and discos than private homes. If you come here off season -- say in early May -- you'll still find Fira's streets, shops, and restaurants crowded. In August, you'll experience gridlock.
Akrotiri is Santorini's principal archaeological wonder: a town destroyed by the volcano eruption, but preserved under layers of lava. As soon as you reach Santorini, check to see if Akrotiri is open; the site's protective roof collapsed in 2005, and it has been closed partially or totally since. If Akrotiri is closed, don't despair: If it weren't for Akrotiri, the site of ancient Thira would be the island's must-see destination. Spectacularly situated atop a high promontory, overlooking a black lava beach, the remains of this Greek, Roman, and Byzantine city sprawl over acres of rugged terrain. Ancient Thira is reached after a vertiginous hike or drive up to the acropolis itself.
Arid Santorini isn't known for the profusion of its agricultural products, but the rocky soil has long produced a plentiful grape harvest, and the local wines are among the finest in Greece. Visit one of the island wineries for a tasting; if you want to plan ahead, check out www.santorini.com/wineries. And keep an eye out for the tasty, tiny Santorini tomatoes and white eggplants -- and the unusually large and zesty capers.
The best advice we can offer is to avoid visiting during the months of July and August. Santorini experiences an even greater transformation during the peak season than other Cycladic isles. With visitors far in excess of the island's capacity, trash collects in the squares, and crowds make strolling the streets of Fira and Oia next to impossible. Tip: Some accommodations rates can be marked down by as much as 50% if you come off season. Virtually all accommodations are marked up by at least as much for desperate arrivals without reservations in July and August.
Visitor Information
Nomikos Travel (tel. 22860/23-660; www.nomikosvillas.gr), Bellonias Tours (tel. 22860/22-469), Pelican Travel (tel. 22860/22-220; www.pelican.gr) and Kamari Tours (tel. 22860/31-390) are well established on the island. Bellonias, Nomikos and Pelican offer bus tours, boat excursions around the caldera, and submarine tours beneath the caldera. Expect to pay about 40€ for a bus tour to Akrotiri or ancient Thira, about the same for a day-trip boat excursion to the caldera islands, and about twice that for the submarine excursion.
Fast Facts
The National Bank (Mon-Fri 8am-2pm), with an ATM, is a block south of the main square, on the right, near the taxi station. The health clinic (tel. 22860/22-237) is on the southeast edge of town, on Ayiou Athanassiou, immediately below the bus station and the new archaeological museum.
There are a number of Internet cafes on the main square, including P.C. World (tel. 22860/25-551). The police (tel. 22860/22-649) are several blocks south of the main square, near the post office. For the port police, call tel. 22860/22-239. The post office, open Monday through Friday from 8am to 1pm, is south of the bus station. The telephone office (OTE) is off Ipapantis, up from the post office; hours are Monday through Friday from 8am to 3pm.
Getting There
By Plane
Olympic Air (tel. 810/114-4444 or 210/966-6666, official Greek phone numbers never answer; www.olympicair.com) offers daily flights between Athens and the Santorini airport, Monolithos (tel. 22860/31-525), which also receives European charters. There are frequent connections with Mykonos and Rhodes, and service two or three times per week to and from Iraklion, Crete. Aegean Airlines (tel. 810/112-0000; www.aegeanair.com) also has several flights daily between Athens and Santorini. A bus to Fira (4€) meets most flights; the schedule is posted at the bus stop, beside the airport entrance. A taxi to Fira costs about 13€.
By Boat
Visit www.gtp.gr and www.openseas.gr for ferry schedules. Ferry service runs to and from Piraeus at least twice daily; the trip takes 9 to 10 hours by car ferry on the Piraeus-Paros-Naxos-Ios-Santorini route, or 4 hours by catamaran, if you go via Piraeus-Paros-Santorini. Boats are notoriously late and/or early; your travel or ticket agent will give you a rough estimate of times involved in the journeys. In July and August, ferries connect several times a day with Ios, Naxos, Paros, and Mykonos; almost daily with Anafi and Siros; five times a week with Sikinos and Folegandros; and twice weekly with Sifnos. Service to Thessaloniki (17-24 hr.) is offered four to five times per week. There is an almost daily connection by excursion boat with Iraklion in Crete, but because this is an open sea route, the trip can be an ordeal in bad weather and is subject to cancellation. Confirm ferry schedules with the Athens GNTO (tel. 210/870-0000; www.gnto.gr), the Piraeus Port Authority (tel. 210/451-1311, 210/451-1440, or -1441; phone not always answered), or the Santorini Port Authority (tel. 22860/22-239).
Almost all ferries dock at Athinios, where buses meet each boat and then return directly to Fira (one-way to Fira costs 3€); from the Fira dock, buses depart for many other island destinations. Taxis are also available from Athinios, at nearly five times the bus fare. Athinios is charmless; when you come here to catch a ferry, it's a good idea to bring munchies, water, and a good book.
The exposed port at Skala, directly below Fira, is unsafe for the larger ferries but is often used by small cruise ships, yachts, and excursion vessels. If your boat docks here, head to town either by cable car (5€), mule, or donkey (5€); or you can do the 45-minute uphill walk. Be prepared to share the narrow path with the mules. We recommend a mule up and the cable car down. If you suffer from acrophobia, try taking the cable car both ways with your eyes firmly shut.
Getting Around
By Bus
The central bus station is just south of the main square in Fira. Schedules are posted here: Most routes are served every hour or half-hour from 7am to 11pm in high season. A conductor on board will collect fares, which range from 2€ to 5€. Destinations include Akrotiri, Athinios (the ferry pier), Oia, Kamari, Monolithos (the airport), Perissa, Perivolas Beach, Vlihada, and Vourvoulos. Excursion buses go to major attractions; ask a travel agent for details.
By Car
The travel agents listed above can help you rent a car. Be sure to take full insurance. Of the better-known agencies, try Budget Rent-A-Car, at the airport (tel. 22860/33-290), or in Fira, a block below the small square that the bus station is on (tel. 22860/22-900); a small car in high season should cost about 60€ a day, with unlimited mileage. If you reserve in advance through Budget in the U.S. (tel. 800/527-0700), you should be able to beat that price.
Warning: If you park in town or in a no-parking area, the police will remove your license plates, and you, not the car-rental office, will have to pay a steep fine to get them back. There's free parking -- often full -- on the port's north side.
By Moped
The travel agents listed above can help you rent a moped. Many roads on the island are narrow and winding; add local drivers who take the roads at high speed, and visiting drivers who aren't sure where they're going, and you'll understand the island's high accident rate. If you're determined to use two-wheeled transportation, expect to pay about 25€ per day, less during off season. Greek law now requires wearing a helmet; not all agents supply the helmet.
By Taxi
The taxi station is just south of the main square. In high season, book ahead by phone (tel. 22860/22-555 or 22860/23-951), if you want a taxi for an excursion; be sure that you agree on the price before you set out. For most point-to-point trips (Fira to Oia, for example), the prices are fixed. If you call for a taxi outside Fira, you'll be charged a pickup fee of at least 2€; you're also required to pay the driver's fare from Fira to your pickup point. Bus service shuts down at midnight, so book a taxi in advance if you'll need it late at night.
Safety First on Santorini
Use caution when walking around Santorini, especially at night. Remember many drivers on the roads are newcomers to the island and may not know every twist and turn. Those who do know every twist and turn tend to take them at full throttle.
