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Fira

Restaurants in Fira range from blah to beatific; the island's best restaurant, Selene moved to Pyrgos in 2010. Some restaurants here let quality and service slide, because they know that most tourists are here today and gone tomorrow. The good places cater to the discriminating Greek and foreign visitors who come back again and again.

If all you want is breakfast or a fast cheap meal, try Corner Crepes, just off the main square (no phone). The popular taverna Camille Stefani (tel. 22860/28-938), long in Kamari, is now in Fira, at the Fabrica shopping center. With a caldera view, Lithos (tel. 22860/23-203; www.lithossantorini.com), turns out good spitiko (home-style) cooking at moderate prices.

Note: Many of the restaurants on the caldera and near the cable car fall into the forgettable category. In addition, some of them have been known to present menus without prices, and then charge exorbitantly for food and wine. If you are given a menu, make sure prices are listed.

Oia

If you want to be by the sea, head down to Ammoudi, Oia's port, hundreds of feet below the village, huddled between the cliffs and the sea. We recommend Katina's fish taverna there. If you don't want to trek all the way down to the beach, stop along the way at Kastro (tel. 22860/71-045), where you'll still have a fine view and can enjoy Greek dishes, pasta, or fresh fish. To get there, follow the stepped path down from the vicinity of Lontza Castle, rent a donkey (5€), or call a taxi. We recommend the walk down (to build an appetite) and a taxi or donkey up.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.