Everyone ends up at the Top Spot Food Court, a huge hawker center on Jalan Bukit Mata off Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, just near the Pullman Hotel. Various stalls cook Chinese, Malay, and Western food, but it's especially known for its seafood. Located on the roof of a multistory parking garage, don't expect anything but "local charm" for decor. Be warned: You will be accosted by touts, but once you pick your stall, the staff is very good about helping select seafood and dishes. Check prices before you commit.
There's a cluster of fun and well-known dinner and drinks venues on Wayang Street and Tabuan Road, about a 5- or 10-minute stroll from the Kuching Waterfront. The Junk Restaurant (80 Wayang St.; tel. 082/259-450; Wed-Mon 6-11pm; main dishes from RM20; AE, MC, V) is a relaxed dining spot that is decorated with a hodge-podge of antiques and old treasures. They serve hearty and satisfying Western dishes like fish and chips and pizzas. Two other restaurants just next door are operated by the same owners as Junk: Bla Bla Bla and The Living Room. Bla Bla Bla (27 Tabuan Rd.; tel. 082/233-944; Wed-Mon 6-11pm; main dishes RM12-RM45; AE, MC, V) serves excellent Chinese fusion food, with some Thai and local dishes on the menu as well. In between Junk and Bla Bla Bla, The Living Room (23 Tabuan Rd.; tel. 082/426-608; Wed-Mon 6-11pm; AE, MC, V) is a groovy place for drinks either indoors or in an al fresco garden that's dripping with romantic ambience. If you get hungry, they're happy to serve anything from the menus of either Junk or Bla Bla Bla.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.