Things To Do in Savusavu

For practical purposes, Savusavu has only one street, and that runs along the shore for about 1.5km (1 mile). It has no official name, but everyone calls it Main Street. The Copra Shed, an old warehouse that has been turned into modern shops and a cafe, stands about midway along the shore. The airlines have their offices in the Copra Shed, along with the Savusavu Yacht Club and restaurants. A bit farther along is Waitui Marina, where cruising yachties come ashore.

Highlights of a stroll along the bay-hugging street are the gorgeous scenery and the volcanic hot springs. Steam from underground rises from the beach on the west end of town, and you can see more white clouds floating up from the ground between the sports field and the school, both behind the BP service station. A concrete pot has been built to make a natural stove in which local residents place meals to cook slowly all day. Overlooking the springs and bay, the Savusavu Hot Springs Hotel has great views.

Marine biologist Justin Hunter spent more than 10 years working in the U.S. before coming home to Savusavu and founding Fiji's first black-pearl farm out in the bay. You can shop for the results -- including golden pearls grown only here -- at J. Hunter Pearls, on the western end of town (tel. 885 0821; www.pearlsfiji.com; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-1pm). Prices range from F$20 up to F$2,000 (US$13-US$1,299/£6.70-£667) for loose pearls. Justin has them set in jewelry, too, as well as some interesting items made from the mother-of-pearl shells (I prize my salad forks made from gleaming shells with tree-branch handles). For F$25 (US$16/£8.30), you can take a 30-minute boat tour of the farm at 9:30am and 1:30pm weekdays.

The mother-son team of Karen and Shane Bower display their paintings and sculpture, respectively, at the Art Gallery, in the Copra Shed (tel. 885 3054). They also carry black pearls and shell jewelry. Gallery hours are Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 1pm and 2 to 4:30pm, and Saturday from 9:30am to 12:30pm. Next door, Taki Handicrafts (tel. 885 3956) sells quality woodcarvings, tapa cloth, shell jewelry, and other items made in Fiji (Mon-Fri 8am-1pm and 2-4:30pm, Sat 9:30am-noon).

Another place to browse is the Savusavu Municipal Market, on main street (no phone), especially the handicraft stalls on the eastern side of the building. It's open Monday to Friday 7am to 5pm, and Saturday from 6:30am to 3pm.

The resorts provide weekly Fijian meke nights and other entertainment for their guests. Otherwise, not much goes on in Savusavu after dark except at one local nightclub, which I have not had the courage to sample, and at three local bars, which I have.

For a step back in time, visit the Planter's Club (tel. 885 0233), an ancient clapboard building near the western end of town. It's a friendly holdover from the colonial era, with a snooker table and a pleasant bar, where you can order a cold young coconut -- add gin or rum, and you've got a genuine island cocktail. It's open Monday to Thursday from 10am to 10pm, Friday and Saturday 10am to 11pm, Sunday 10am to 8pm. You'll be asked to sign the club's register.

Yachties and the numerous expatriates who live here congregate at the wharf-side bars of the Savusavu Yacht Club, in the Copra Shed (tel. 885 0685), and the nearby Waitui Club (tel. 885 0536), upstairs at Waitui Marina. The yacht club is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 10pm and Sunday noon to 10pm. Waitui Club is open Monday to Thursday 10am to 8pm, Friday and Saturday 10am to 11pm.