Planning a trip to Scotland

Fast Facts

Area Codes — The telephone country code for Britain is 44. The area code for Edinburgh is 0131; for Glasgow, 0141; for Aberdeen, 01224; and for Inverness, 01463.

Business Hours — With many exceptions, business hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. In general, stores are open Monday through Saturday from 9:30am to 5:30pm, and on Sunday from 11am to 5pm. In country towns, there’s usually an early closing day (often on Wed or Thurs), when the shops close at 1pm, and most shops don’t open at all on Sundays.

Customs — Non-E.U. nationals can bring into Scotland duty-free 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of smoking tobacco. You can also bring in 4 liters of wine and either 1 liter of alcohol over 22% proof or 2 liters of fortified wine under 22% proof. In addition, you can bring in up to £390 of other goods (including perfume) without having to pay tax or duty. Check www.gov.uk/duty-free-goods for further details.

There are no restrictions on the amount of goods (including alcohol and tobacco) that E.U. nationals may bring into Scotland. However, you must transport the goods yourself, the goods must be for your own use or intended as a gift (any form of payment received invalidates this claim), and the goods must be duty and tax paid in the E.U. country where they were acquired. Failure to meet any of these conditions may result in the goods being seized.

Drinking Laws — The legal drinking age is 18. Children 15 and under aren’t allowed in pubs, except in certain rooms, and then only when accompanied by a parent or guardian. Pub opening hours are generally from 11am to 11pm, but within these limits there’s wide variation, according to the discretion of the pub owner. Licensed premises in certain areas are allowed extended opening hours—up to 4am, on a “local need” basis. On Sundays, some pubs, particularly in city centers, are closed; those that do remain open usually do so from noon to 10:30 or 11pm. Restaurants are allowed to serve liquor during these hours, but only to people who are dining on the premises. The law allows an additional 30 minutes for “drinking-up time.” In hotels, liquor may be served from 11am to 11pm to both guests and non-guests; after 11pm, only guests may be served. Supermarkets sell beer, wine, and liquor. Wherever you choose to drink, don’t drink and drive—alcohol limits for drivers are much lower in Scotland than they are elsewhere in the U.K., and stiff penalties include license suspension, fines, and jail time.

Drug Laws — Scotland, like the rest of Britain, takes a fairly relaxed view of the recreational use of marijuana in private, though possession of hard drugs such as heroin and cocaine may carry stiff penalties, including fines and imprisonment.

Drugstores — There are very few 24-hour pharmacies in Scotland. Some large in-store pharmacy counters in supermarkets remain open until very late. Police station in the country has a list of emergency chemists. Dial “0” (zero) and ask the operator for the local police, who will give you the name of one nearest you.

Electricity — British electricity is 240 volts AC (50 cycles), roughly twice the voltage in North America, which is 115 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles). American plugs don’t fit British wall outlets so you’ll need an adapter to plug an American appliance directly into a European electrical outlet. While most electronic gear, phones and laptops included, are dual voltage, you’ll also need a transformer to use a gadget that is not equipped with dual voltage.

Embassies & Consulates — All embassies are in London. However, there’s a U.S. Consulate in Edinburgh at 3 Regent Terrace (www.uk.usembassy.gov; tel. 0131/556-8315), open Monday through Friday from 1 to 5:30pm; appointment required. The Canadian High Commission is at 50 Lothian Rd. (www.travel.gc.ca; tel. 0131/473-6320), open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm. The Irish Consulate is at 6 Randolph Crescent (www.dfa.ie/irish-consulate/edinburgh; tel. 0131/226-7711), open Monday through Friday, 9:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 5pm.

Emergencies — For police, fire, or ambulance, dial tel. 999.

Family Travel — Families are well catered to in Scotland. In fact, with such an abundance of outdoor scenery and activities, and a generally casual, family-friendly atmosphere prevailing even in the large cities, Scotland is unusually welcoming to young travelers. Many restaurants serve lower-priced child-size portions; many hotels are geared to accommodating families in large rooms with multiple beds or in family suites, often with kitchenettes; and museums and other attractions usually charge children 15 and younger a lower admission fee and have special rates for family groups.

Gasoline (Petrol) — In Scotland, pumps dispense in liters, not gallons.The British Imperial gallon is about 20% more in volume than the gallon as measured in the United States. One British gallon is about 4.5 liters. Most gas stations in Scotland are self-service, and most of them also accept major credit cards.

Family Travel — Families are well catered to in Scotland. In fact, with such an abundance of outdoor scenery and activities, and a generally casual, family-friendly atmosphere prevailing even in the large cities, Scotland is unusually welcoming to young travelers. Many restaurants serve lower-priced child-size portions; many hotels are geared to accommodating families in large rooms with multiple beds or in family suites, often with kitchenettes; and museums and other attractions usually charge children 15 and younger a lower admission fee and have special rates for family groups.

Health — Travel in Scotland does not pose any extraordinary health risks. If you need a doctor, your hotel can recommend one, or you can contact your embassy or consulate. U.S. visitors who become ill while in Scotland are eligible for free emergency care only. For other treatment, including follow-up care, you’ll be asked to pay. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns, and for lists of local doctors.

Holidays — The following public holidays are celebrated in Scotland: New Year (Jan 1–2), Good Friday and Easter Monday, May Day (May 1), spring bank holiday (last Mon in May), summer bank holiday (first Mon in Aug), St Andrew’s Day (Nov 30), Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26). Almost everything is closed on Christmas Day, and most businesses (except pubs) are closed on New Year’s Day. Many shops remain open on other public holidays.

Insurance — For big ticket items, like home rentals, and medical emergencies, it’s smart to get travel insurance. Chances are your Scottish travels won’t be putting you at any special risks, but accidents do happen—lost luggage, scraped bumpers, emergencies that require a change of plans. You may want to inform yourself about trip cancellation insurance, travellers’ medical insurance, and general travel insurance, and good places to do so before heading to Scotland are SquareMouth.com and InsureMyTrip.com. Both are online marketplaces for travel policies that allow you to pick and choose which policy best suits your needs and budget.

LGBTQ Travelers — Same sex marriage is legal in Scotland, and Edinburgh and Glasgow have thriving gay communities, with bars, clubs, shops, and gyms. Gay and lesbian visitors may sometimes still experience bigoted attitudes in rural areas, but generally, visitors will find the Scots open and welcoming to all comers.

Liquor Laws — The legal drinking age is 18. Children 15 and under aren't allowed in pubs, except in certain rooms, and then only when accompanied by a parent or guardian. Don't drink and drive; the penalties are stiff. Basically, you can get a drink from 11am to 11pm, but this can vary widely, depending on the discretion of the local tavern owner. Certain licensed premises can have hours extended in some areas up to 4am, on a "local need" basis. Not all pubs are open on Sunday; those that are generally stay open from noon to 3pm and 7 to 10:30 or 11pm. Restaurants are allowed to serve liquor during these hours, but only to people who are dining on the premises. The law allows 30 minutes for "drinking-up time." A meal, incidentally, is defined as "substantial refreshment." And you have to eat and drink sitting down. In hotels, liquor may be served from 11am to 11pm to both guests and nonguests; after 11pm, only guests may be served.

Mail — Most post offices and sub post offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday from 9:30am to noon. British mailboxes are painted red and carry a royal coat of arms. All post offices accept parcels for mailing, provided they’re wrapped properly and securely.

Newspapers & Magazines — While most towns of any size publish their own newspapers, and these are a good way to key into local concerns, The New York Times and USA Today are also widely available in major cities.

Packing — Bring robust footwear and some waterproof clothing just about anywhere you’re going in Scotland, whatever the season. You’ll want to bring a light jacket, even in summer, when evenings can be nippy. Scots dress well when they go out, and many smarter restaurants request that customers don’t wear jeans or trainers (sneakers). So bring nice clothing; a jacket for men and skirt or dress for women is not out of place in many restaurants.

Passports — All U.S. citizens, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, and South Africans must have a passport with at least 2 months’ validity remaining.

Police — The best source of help and advice in emergencies is the police. For non-life-threatening situations, dial “0” (zero) and ask for the police; dial 999 for emergencies. If the local police can’t assist, they’ll usually have the contact details of a hospital or other agency that can. Losses, thefts, and other crimes should be reported immediately.

Safety — Although rural Scotland is quite safe, the big cities are no more immune from crime than any other European city. If visitors do find themselves victims of a crime, it’s likely to be one of pickpocketing; mugging; “snatch and grab” theft of mobile phones, watches, and jewelry; or theft of their unattended bags, especially at airports and from cars parked at restaurants, hotels, and resorts.

Pickpockets target tourists at historic sites and restaurants, as well as on buses and trains. Unattended cars are targeted, too. Visitors in Scotland aren’t expected to produce identity documents for police authorities, so feel free to secure your passport in the hotel or room safe.

Smoking — Smoking has been banned in public places, including pubs, restaurants, workplaces, and public transportation. Ignoring the ban may incur a fine of £50.

Student Travel — The International Student Identity Card (ISIC) qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (www.statravel.com; tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; 132-782 in Australia; 087/1230-0040 in the U.K.). Check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. The agency Travel CUTS (www.travelcuts.com; tel. 866/246-9762) also issues the ISIC Card and offers services and discounts for U.S. and Canadian residents.

Taxes — A standard value-added tax (VAT) of 20% is imposed on most goods and services, and hotel rates and meals in restaurants are also taxed at 20%; the extra charge will usually show up on your bill. For non-EU residents, the VAT amount can be refunded if you shop at stores that participate in the Retail Export Scheme (signs are posted in the window). When you make a purchase, show your passport and request a Retail Export Scheme form (VAT 407) and a stamped, pre-addressed envelope. Show the VAT form and your sales receipt to British Customs when you leave the country—they may also ask to see the merchandise, so keep them handy in a carry-on bag. After Customs has stamped the form, mail it back to in the envelope the shop has provided before you leave the country. Your VAT refund will be mailed to you. Or, in some larger airports you may be able to go to a VAT counter and receive your refund on the spot (Travelex offers this service in many U.K. airports).

Telephones — To call Scotland: If you’re calling Scotland from outside of the U.K.:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from North America; 00 from Ireland, Europe, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 44.

3. Dial the local 3- or 4-digit area code (drop the initial “0”).

4. Dial the 7-digit number. The whole number you’d dial for a number in Edinburgh would be 011-44-131-000-0000.

To make calls within Scotland: Cities and localities have area codes. If you’re calling within the same area code, simply dial the local 7-digit number. However, if you’re calling from one area code to another, you must dial 0 and then the area code.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Britain, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64, South Africa 27). Next, dial the area code and number.

For directory assistance: For U.K. directory enquiries, dial tel. 118-500; for international directory enquiries, dial tel. 118-505. Note that these are premium-rate numbers. Consult www.192.com for a free online service.

For operator assistance: If you need an international operator or to call collect, dial tel. 155.

Time — The United Kingdom follows Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), which is 5 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, with British summertime lasting (roughly) from the end of March to the end of October. For most of the year, including summer, Britain is 5 hours ahead of the time observed in the eastern United States. Because of different daylight-saving-time practices in the two nations, there’s a brief period (about a week) in autumn when Britain is only 4 hours ahead of New York, and a brief period in spring when it’s 6 hours ahead.

Tipping — For cab drivers, add about 10% to 15% to the fare shown on the meter. If the driver personally unloads or loads your luggage, add 50p per bag.

You should tip hotel porters at least a pound or so even if you have only one small suitcase; give £5 if you have substantial amounts of luggage. Leave maids £1 per day.

In many restaurants, a 15% service charge is often added to the bill. To that, add another 3% to 5%, depending on the quality of the service. Tipping in pubs isn’t common, although in cocktail bars the waiter or barmaid usually gets about £1 per round of drinks.

Barbers and hairdressers expect 10% to 15%. Tour guides expect £2, but it’s not mandatory.

Water — Tap water is considered safe to drink throughout Scotland.

Getting There

By Plane

Scotland’s two principal airports Edinburgh Airport (EDI; www.edinburghairport.com) and Glasgow Airport (GLA; www.glasgowairport.com) are served by nonstop flights, often seasonal, from several North American airports. These include Chicago (United); Newark (United); New York (Delta); Orlando (Virgin Atlantic); Philadelphia (American); and Toronto and Vancouver (Air Transat). If you’re flying across the Atlantic, you can also go through London Heathrow or another European hub, often Amsterdam or Paris.

A Frommers.com study found that the websites www.skiplagged.com, www.momondo.com and www.skyscanner.net consistently come up with the best prices for transatlantic flights; they also will show you a myriad of possibilities when it comes to connections. An alternative for the truly budget conscious is to investigate the lowest transatlantic fares to European hubs and continue from there on one of the low-cost airlines that service Glasgow and Edinburgh (easyJet and Ryanair fly in and out of Glasgow and Edinburgh). Keep in mind, too, that Glasgow and Edinburgh Airports are only 39 miles apart, and the cities are well connected to both airports by bus, so it’s worthwhile checking into the lowest fares to both.

By Car

If you’re driving to Scotland from London or anywhere in eastern England to Edinburgh, the A1 is the fastest route. This road heads directly north from the M25, London’s ring road, and crosses into the Scottish Borders before leading into Edinburgh from the east. For Glasgow from London take the M1, which leads northwest from the M25. At junction 19 of the M1, head west to join the M6 to travel west through Birmingham before heading directly north up the west side of England into Scotland. If you’re traveling from the southwest of England the M5, which begins at Exeter (Devon), leads into the M6 at Birmingham. As the M6 crosses the border into Dumfries and Galloway in Scotland, it becomes the M74 and heads directly north into Glasgow. All major routes into northern Scotland lead from either Edinburgh or Glasgow. Remember, Glasgow and Edinburgh are less than 40 miles apart and connected by the M8, so once you get near one you’ll be within an easy drive of the other.

By Train

Two main rail lines link London to Scotland. The East Coast Mainline connects London’s King’s Cross Station with Edinburgh via York, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and Durham. Trains depart at regular intervals throughout the day and cross from England into Scotland at Berwick-upon-Tweed. The journey from London to Edinburgh takes around 4 1/4 hours with some services traveling an additional hour on to Glasgow, and others continuing north to Dundee (an additional 1 1/2 hr.) and Aberdeen (an additional 2 1/2 hr.). The West Coast Mainline leads from London’s Euston Station for Glasgow by way of Preston, Oxenholme in England’s Lake District, and Carlisle. Trains depart roughly every hour throughout the day and take around 4 1/2 hours to reach Glasgow. London North Eastern Railway (www.lner.co.uk) provides service along the East Coast Mainline; Virgin Trains (www.virgintrains.co.uk) provides service along the West Coast Mainline.

In addition, a Cross Country route leads from Penzance in Cornwall, England through Plymouth, Exeter, Bristol, Birmingham, Leeds, and other cities to Scotland. For more information on this service, contact tel. 08477/369-123 (www.crosscountrytrains.co.uk).

If you’re traveling to Scotland by train from continental Europe, you’ll probably connect through London’s St Pancras Station, hub for high-speed Eurostar train services (www.eurostar.com) from Paris, Brussels, and Amsterdam, traveling to the U.K. via the Channel Tunnel. 

Train routes from Edinburgh and Glasgow lead across the rest of Scotland and are mostly operated by ScotRail (www.scotrail.co.uk; tel. 08457/550-033). ScotRail also operates Caledonian Sleepers, overnight trains between London’s Euston Station and Scotland that offer both seated and sleeping berth accommodation. Services can be booked up to 12 weeks in advance either by telephone or online.

By Bus (Coach)

Long-distance buses, or “coaches” as they’re known in Britain, are the least expensive means of reaching Scotland from other parts of the U.K. The majority of routes and services are operated by National Express (www.nationalexpress.com; tel. 0871/781-8181), which links with most decent-sized communities in the U.K. The budget operator MegaBus (www.megabus.com; tel. 0871/352-4444) also runs long-distance coach services to Scotland from a limited number of U.K. destinations. In London, most coaches depart from Victoria Coach Station at 164 Buckingham Palace Rd. and take 8 to 8 1/2 hours to reach Edinburgh or Glasgow, and often make the trip at night. It’s always wise to make reservations in advance, especially during peak times such as the summer months and over the festive season. National Express offers the Skimmer Pass for unlimited travel throughout Britain for 7 days,  £69; 14 days, £119; and 28 days, £199.

Tips on Accommodations

Reserve your accommodations as far in advance as possible, even in the so-called slow months from November to April. Sometimes you can get better rates by calling the hotel directly. Ask for the type of room you want. If you're sensitive to noise, for example, request a room that's quieter, perhaps in the rear so you won't hear traffic noise out front. Remember that in the older hotels and inns, guest rooms tend to be small and each room is different, often with different plumbing. If you need a bathtub, ask for one or else you might end up with a small shower cubicle.

Accommodation prices quoted throughout this guide include breakfast unless otherwise noted. To save money, try these rules of thumb:

Turning to the Internet or Apps for a Hotel Discount

Before going online, it’s important that you know what “flavor” of discount you’re seeking. Currently, there are three types of online reductions:

1. Extreme discounts on sites where you bid for lodgings without knowing which hotel you’ll get. You’ll find these on such sites as Priceline.com and Hotwire.com, and they can be money-savers, particularly if you’re booking within a week of travel (that’s when the hotels resort to deep discounts to get beds filled). As these companies usually use major chains, you can rest assured that you won’t be put up in a dump. For more reassurance, visit the website BiddingTraveler.com. On it, actual travelers spill the beans about what they bid on Priceline.com and which hotels they got. We think you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the quality of many of the hotels that are offering these “secret” discounts. Keep in mind, though, that since you won’t know the location of the hotel until you book, you can find yourself spending a lot of money and time reaching the hotel of choice—not necessarily a problem if you’re traveling by car, but a potential hassle if you’re relying on public transportation.
   
2. Discounts on chain hotel websites. Major chains reserve special discounts, ranging widely from a few dollars and going as high as $50, for travelers who book directly through their websites (usually in the portion of the site reserved for loyalty members). Our advice: Search for a hotel that’s in your price range and ideal location (see below for where to do that) and then, if it is a chain property, book directly through the online loyalty portal.
3. Use the right hotel search engine. They’re not all equal, as we at Frommers.com learned after putting the top 20 sites to the test in 20 cities (including Edinburgh) around the globe. We discovered that Booking.com listed the lowest rates for hotels in the city center, and in the under $200 range, 16 out of 20 times—the best record, by far, of all the sites we tested. And Booking.com includes all taxes and fees in its results (not all do, which can make for a frustrating shopping experience). For top-end properties, again in the city center only, both Priceline.com and HotelsCombined.com came up with the best rates, tying at 14 wins each.
4. Last-minute discounts. Booking last minute can be a great savings strategy, as prices sometimes drop in the week before travel as hoteliers scramble to fill their rooms. But you won’t necessarily find the best savings through companies that claim to specialize in last-minute bookings. Instead, use the sites recommended in point 3 of this list. It’s a lot of surfing, we know, but this sort of diligence can pay off.

Classifications

In Britain, regional tourist boards classify the standard of accommodation through a star rating system, with five stars being the highest rating and one star the lowest. Each property is judged on categories that may make no difference to the stay of the traveler, though it’s helpful to know that all establishments from two stars upward are required to provide en suite bathrooms, and in one-star accommodation hot and cold running water must be provided in all rooms. The ratings in this book go from one star to three stars and have nothing to do with the official rating system. Star ratings are posted outside the buildings. However, the system is voluntary, and many hotels do not participate.

Many hotels, especially older ones, still lack private bathrooms for all rooms. However, most have hot and cold running water, and many have modern wings with all the amenities (and older sections that are less up-to-date). When making reservations, always ask what section of the hotel you'll be staying in.

All hotels once included in the room price a full Scottish breakfast of bacon and eggs, but today that is true of only some hotels. A continental breakfast is commonly included, usually just tea or coffee and toast.

Hotels vs. Rentals

It is impossible for us to include reviews for the thousands of apartments, houses and other “one-off” rentals that are available in Scotland through such online giants as Airbnb.com, Wimdu.com, VRBO.com, Homeaway.com, and others. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t consider them for your next vacation. The savings can be tremendous. Take for example a 1-week vacation in Edinburgh. If you’d booked a nice, midrange hotel for a week in the city you’d be looking at a something south of £800 for 6 nights in a double room with bathroom. Go to Airbnb, or one of its compatriots, and you’d be able to get not only a bedroom, but an entire flat for the week (including a kitchen, so you can save a bit of cash cooking) for almost half: £490.

Well, sort of. That’s because you will likely have more fees to contend with on a rental than on a hotel stay. So before entering your credit card info, always factor in all costs, looking in particular for:

• The fee that the booking company charges. This can add 6% or more to the total cost.
• Cleaning fees: These come to an average of £40, so often the longer you rent, the more this cost can be amortized.

A big perk of this kind of stay: truly unique digs. Not only will you find rentable castles in Scotland (yes, actual ones), you’ll also find a decommissioned church (in Urquhart, Morayshire), yurts in the Orkney Islands, a re-tooled giant whiskey vat turned house (in Findhorn), and even a cozy home on a 600-acre private island on Loch Sunart in Argyll.

Bed & Breakfasts

A mainstay of accommodation in all areas of Scotland and the U.K. are bed-and-breakfasts. Sometimes this type of accommodation can be an extension of a family home; at other times the property can be a modern stylish guesthouse. What they all have in common is that they’re small, typically offering between two and 15 rooms. They can be far friendlier than big large hotels, and some offer a homemade evening meal at a reasonable extra charge.

Bed and Breakfast Nationwide (www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com; tel. 01255/672-377) is an agency specializing in privately owned bed-and-breakfasts all over Britain. You’ll also find B&Bs on Wimdu.com, Airbnb.com, and Bed and Fed (www.bedandfed.co.uk), networks of affordable guest rooms, often in private homes, for as little as £30 per night.

Farmhouses

Many farmhouses set aside rooms for paying guests on a bed-and-breakfast basis. These traditional farmhouses might not boast all the modern conveniences and luxuries of hotels, but they’re packed with rural charm, provide a unique insight into Scottish life off the beaten track, and are famous for some of the best home-cooked breakfasts in Scotland. Staying in farmhouses, which are often also private homes, can be cheaper than many other types of accommodation, and many farms also offer self-catering accommodation in converted barns or cottages as well as camping and caravan sites on their land.

Farm Stay UK (www.farmstayuk.co.uk; tel. 024/7669-6909) is the main national organization for accommodation of this type. The approximate prices range from £30 to £60 per person per night and include a full home-cooked breakfast and usually private facilities. Farm stay self-catering accommodation costs from £200 per week and usually include amenities such as dishwashers and central heating. Each property is inspected annually by both Farm Stay UK and regional tourist boards, and most are open year-round.

Holiday Cottages & Villages

Throughout Scotland, fully furnished studios, houses, cottages, “flats” (apartments), and even trailers suitable for couples, families, or groups can be rented by the day, week, or for longer periods. This type of holiday accommodation can often be an economical option, not least because you can cook all your own meals.

Alongside such multinational companies as Airbnb.com, HomeAway.com, and Fliplkey.com, U.K. companies that offer this type of accommodation include Cottages.com (tel. 0345/498-6900), representing rental properties from thatch-roofed island cottages to castles; Embrace Scotland (tel. 01866/822-122); Unique Cottages (www.unique-cottages.co.uk; tel. 01835/822-277); and Wilderness Cottages (www.wildernesscottages.co.uk; tel. 01463/719-219). The perk of using U.K.-based properties is they vet the properties they rep, and will be on hand should anything go wrong with the rental.

The National Trust for Scotland (www.ntsholidays.com; tel. 0131/458-0200; from outside U.K., 0131/458-0303) also rents many incredible historic properties around the country from flats in old tenements on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile to lighthouse cottages and castles. In addition, the Landmark Trust (www.landmarktrust.org.uk; tel. 01628/825-925), a national building preservation charity, also has a large collection of historic buildings available for holiday lets.

Chain Hotels

Many American chains, such as Best Western, Hilton, Sheraton, and Travelodge, are found throughout Britain. In addition, Britain has a number of leading chains with which North American travelers are generally not familiar. Thistle Hotels (tel. 020/7138-0000; www.thistle.com) is a well-regarded chain of upscale-to-moderate full-service hotels that caters to business and leisure travelers alike. An exclusive chain of government-rated three-crown hotels is called Malmaison (tel. 0845/365-4247; www.malmaison.com). There's not a bad hotel in their post. Premier Travel Inn (tel. 0870/242-8000; www.premiertravelinn.com) is a chain of modern, moderately priced accommodations across the U.K., each one featuring a licensed restaurant.

House Swapping

The market leader in home exchanges is HomeLink International, 2937 NW9 Terrace, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33311 (tel. 800/638-3841 or 954/566-2687; www.homelink.org), which costs $110 to join. This is the oldest, largest, and best home-exchange holiday organization in the world.

A competitor is Intervac U.S. & International, 30 Corte San Fernando, Tiburon, CA 94920 (tel. 800/756-HOME [4663]; www.intervacus.com). To hook up with this outfitter, you pay $65 annually. Intervac is adept at securing a list of home exchanges throughout Great Britain.

When to Go

Weather

Weather in Scotland is, in a word, changeable—sunny one moment, cloudy and gray the next. With some dramatic exceptions, you can expect fairly moderate temperatures and at least some light precipitation just about anytime, anywhere in Scotland. A word you need to learn is “dreich,” referring to gray, gloomy weather, because Scots use it a lot. Even so, residents of Edinburgh like to point out that their annual rainfall is no higher than that of London, and in terms of total rainfall amounts (about 23 inches/584 millimeters in both), they’re right, and Edinburgh is actually quite a bit drier than New York—just a lot mistier and grayer. Glasgow, only 40 miles west, gets twice as much rainfall. In fact, the western Highlands north of Glasgow catch moisture blowing in off the Atlantic and are the wettest place in Europe, with as much as 180 inches (4,570 millimeters) of rain a year. It rarely gets terribly warm in Scotland, not much above the 60s, even in summer, or terribly frigid, though bitterly cold air can blow in from the East from time to time, turning the precipitation to snow. The general packing rule is to bring some rain gear and warm clothes any time of year, and at least a light jacket in summer.

When You Find Bargains

The cheapest time to travel to Scotland is off season: November 1 to December 12 and December 26 to March 14. In the past few years, airlines have been offering irresistible fares during these periods. And weekday flights are cheaper than weekend fares, often by 10% or more.

Rates generally increase March 14 to June 5 and in October, and then hit their peak in the high seasons from June 6 to September 30 and December 13 to December 24. July and August are when most Britons take their holidays, so in addition to the higher prices, you'll have to deal with crowds and limited availability of accommodations.

Sure, in winter Scotland is usually rainy and cold -- but it doesn't shut down when the tourists leave. In fact, the winter season gives visitors a more honest view of Scottish life. Additionally, many hotel prices drop by 20%, and cheaper accommodations offer weekly rates (unheard of during peak travel times). By arriving after the winter holidays, you can take advantage of post-Christmas sales to buy your fill of woolens, china, crystal, silver, fashion, handicrafts, and curios.

In short, spring offers the countryside at its greenest, autumn brings the bright colors of the northern Highlands, and summer's warmth gives rise to the many outdoor music and theater festivals. But winter offers savings across the board and a chance to see Scots going about their everyday lives, largely unhindered by tourist invasions.

Health & Insurance

You'll encounter few health problems while in Scotland. If you need a doctor, your hotel can recommend one, or you can contact your embassy or consulate. Note: U.S. visitors who become ill while in Scotland are eligible for free emergency care only. For other treatment, including follow-up care, you'll be asked to pay.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Okay for a Wee Dram, but Not for a Fag — Pub devotees in Scotland had to give up smoking in 2006, so no more fags (the slang term for cigarettes). A wee dram—or a lot more—is still acceptable, of course. The ban, which applies not only to pubs but also to restaurants, workplaces, and public transport, was designed to protect fellow workers, other diners, and even bartenders from inhaling secondhand smoke. The British Heart Foundation proclaimed that the day the ban took effect was a "historic day for Scotland."

Safety

Like all big cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow have their share of crime. Compared with most large European cities, however, they are relatively safe, and violent crime against visitors is extremely rare. The same precautions prevail in these larger cities as they do elsewhere in the world. Rural Scotland is quite safe.

Crime, however, has increased over the past few years. Tourists are typically prey to incidents of pickpocketing; mugging; "snatch and grab" theft of mobile phones, watches, and jewelry; and theft of unattended bags, especially at airports and from cars parked at restaurants, hotels, and resorts.

Pickpockets target tourists at historic sites and restaurants, as well as on buses, trains, and the Underground (subway). Unattended cars are targeted, too. Visitors in Scotland are not expected to produce identity documents for police authorities and thus may secure their passports in hotel safes or residences.

Insurance

Medical Insurance — For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try UnitedHealthcare (www.uhcsafetrip.com) or Travel Assistance International (www.tailimited.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at www.worldwideassists.com.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (www.canada.ca/en/health-canada.html) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment."

Travel Insurance — The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (www.insuremytrip.com). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find that an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com (www.moneysupermarket.com), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (www.columbusdirect.com).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance — Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage—which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. Travel Guard International (www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (www.travelexinsurance.com).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

All U.S. citizens, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, and South Africans must have a passport with at least 2 months' validity remaining. No visa is required. The immigration officer will also want proof of your intention to return to your point of origin (usually a round-trip ticket) and visible means of support while you're in Scotland. If you're planning to fly from the United States or Canada to the United Kingdom and then on to a country that requires a visa (India, for example), you should secure that visa before you arrive in Britain.

Your valid driver's license and at least 1 year of driving experience are required to drive personal or rented cars.

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia — Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada — Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland — Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.dfa.ie/passports).

For Residents of New Zealand — Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United States — To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring Into Scotland — Non-E.U. Nationals can bring in, duty-free, 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of smoking tobacco. This amount is doubled if you live outside Europe. You can also bring in 2 liters of wine and either 1 liter of alcohol over 22 proof or 2 liters of wine under 22 proof. In addition, you can bring in 60 mLs (2 oz.) of perfume, a quarter liter (250ml) of eau de toilette, 500 grams (1 lb.) of coffee, and 200 grams (1/2 lb.) of tea. Visitors 15 and over may also bring in other goods totaling £145; the allowance for those 14 and under is £73. (Customs officials tend to be lenient about general merchandise, realizing the limits are unrealistically low.)

What You Can Take Home from Scotland — For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) offers extremely upscale escorted tours that are loaded with luxury. They're the best in the business.

Other contenders in the upscale package-tour business include Maupintour (tel. 800/255-4266; www.maupintour.com) and Tauck World Discovery (tel. 800/810-8020; www.tauck.co.uk).

But not all escorted tours are so pricey. Older British folks make up a large portion of the clientele of one of the United Kingdom's largest tour operators, Wallace Arnold Worldchoice (tel. 0845/365-6747; www.waworldchoice.com). Most of the company's tours last between 5 and 10 days, include lodgings (at solid but not particularly extravagant hotels) and most meals, and are reasonably priced.

U.S.-based Trafalgar Tours (tel. 866/544-4434; www.trafalgartours.com) offers more affordable packages with lodgings in unpretentious but comfortable hotels. It's one of Europe's largest tour operators. Their 8-day "Best of Scotland 2010" tour costs $1,535, with some allencompassing introductory tours to Scotland; and Maupintour (www.maupintour.com; tel. 800-255-4266 in the U.S.), with tours of Edinburgh and Glasgow and day trips from each.

One of Trafalgar's leading competitors, known for roughly equivalent moderately priced tours through Britain, is Globus & Cosmos Tours (tel. 866/755-8581; www.globusandcosmos.com).

You can sip your way through the landscapes with Whisky Tours Scotland (www.whisky-tours-scotland.com) or Distillery Destinations (www.whisky-tours.com; tel. 0141/429-0762). McKinlay Kidd (www.mckinlaykidd.com; tel. 0866/922-8538) leads a whisky explorer tour and also puts together self-guided trips to the Hebrides, Orkney, and other islands and mainland regions. McLean Scotland (www.mcleanscotland.com; tel. 01738/560-435) does small-scale whisky tours as well as driving circuits of castles and other scenic high points.

At Solway Tours (www.solwaytours.co.uk; tel. 07789/794-142 or 07809/239-696), the personable and well-informed Mark Turner and Lesley Watson lead personalized historic and ancestral trips of one to several days or a week, and will help clients trace their Scottish roots. Afternoon Tea Tour (www.afternoonteatours.co.uk; tel. 07873/211-856) accompanies a look around Edinburgh with tea at a country house hotel and does highly personalized, individual tours to the Isle of Skye, the Highlands, and other Scottish regions.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser known gem.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Senior Travel—Many attractions offer discounts for seniors (sometimes that applies to someone as young as 60). Even if discounts aren’t posted, ask if they’re available. In most cities, people over the age of 60 also qualify for discounted fares on public transport, and ScotRail offers a third off rail travel.

Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but carry some kind of identification that shows your date of birth. Also, mention you're a senior when you make your reservations. Many hotels offer seniors discounts.

If you’re a member of AARP, check for airfare discounts with British Airways.

Calendar of Events

You can get details of specific events at many of the festivals below by going to https://edinburgh.org/discover/edinburgh-festivals/.

January

Celtic Connections, Glasgow. Beginning with a torchlight parade that lights up the wintry streets, the city comes to life with two weeks of concerts celebrating Celtic music and dance. There are venues throughout the city, but most notably the Old Fruit Market, on Albion Street. For tickets and details, go to www.celticconnections.com. Mid-January to early February.

Burns Night, Ayr (near his birthplace) and Dumfries, where he died, and elsewhere. During Burns Night suppers to honor the poet and lyricist, there’s much toasting with whisky and eating of haggis. Go to www.visitscotland.com for information. January 25.

Up Helly Aa, Lerwick, in the Shetland Islands. The most northerly town in Great Britain stages an ancient Norse fire festival, the aim of which is to encourage the return of the sun after the pitch-dark days of winter. The highlight is the burning of a replica of a Norse longboat. See www.uphellyaa.org. Last Tuesday in January.

February

Six Nations Rugby Championship (aka NatWest 6 Nations), Edinburgh. Sixty-seven thousand fans cram into the Murrayfield stadium for Scotland’s home matches. Visit www.scottishrugby.org. Early February.

Fort William Mountain Festival. Films, lectures, music, and exhibitions are staged at the foot of Ben Nevis. See www.mountainfilmfestival.co.uk. Late-February.

March

Whuppity Scourie, Lanark.Residents of the Strathclyde get so tired of winter that they stage this traditional ceremony with processions and bell ringing, to chase it away. Find more information at www.lanark.co.uk. Mid-March.

Glasgow Comedy Festival. Glaswegians are certainly not shy in heckling some of comedy’s biggest names. See www.glasgowcomedyfestival.com. Two weeks in Mid-March.

April

Kate Kennedy Procession & Pageant, St Andrews. A historic pageant with pipe bands and cross-dressed historical characters is staged annually at this ancient university. See www.calendarcustoms.com. Second Saturday in April.

Beltane Fire Festival, Edinburgh. Join the costumed revelers as they dance around the Calton hill, accompanied by drummers and musicians in this modern take on an ancient Celtic fertility ceremony. It’s also a good excuse for a party. See www.beltane.org. End of April.

Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival. Special tours and tastings are presented at various Speyside distilleries. See www.spiritofspeyside.com. Late April and early May.

May

Scottish Motorcycle Trials, Fort William. The trials run for 6 days in the first part of the month, drawing enthusiasts from all over Europe. Visit www.ssdt.org. Early May.

Royal Scottish Academy Annual Exhibition, Edinburgh. Showcase of the best of the academicians’ painting, sculpture, photography, and architecture. See www.royalscottishacademy.org. Early May to early June.

Pitlochry Festival Theatre, Pitlochry. Scotland’s “theatre in the hills” launches its season in mid-May. Visit www.pitlochry.org.uk or call tel. 01796/484-626. Mid-May to October.

Gay Pride, Edinburgh. The annual gay-pride celebration includes a massive march through the city center. Contact Pride Edinburgh, www.prideedinburgh.org.uk. One Saturday in May or June.

June

Lanimer Day, Lanark. A week of festivities features a procession around the town’s boundaries, the election of a Lanimer Queen and a Cornet King, a parade with floats, and Highland dances and bagpipe playing. Visit www.lanarklanimers.co.uk. The Thursday between June 6 and 12.

Royal Highland Show, at the Ingliston Showground, outskirts of Edinburgh. This show is devoted to agriculture and country pursuits, with livestock displays and shows and more. Visit www.royalhighlandshow.org. Mid- to late June.

Selkirk Common Riding, Selkirk. Commemorating Selkirk’s losses in the 1513 Battle of Flodden—only one Selkirk soldier returned alive from the battle to warn the town before dropping dead in the marketplace—some 400 horses and riders parade through the streets, and a young unmarried male is crowned at the sound of the cornet, representing the soldier who sounded the alarm. Visit www.returntotheridings.co.uk. Mid-June.

Peebles Beltane Festival. A town “Cornet” rides around to see if the boundaries are safe from the “invading” English, a young girl is elected Festival Queen, and her court is filled with courtiers, sword bearers, guards, and attendants. Children of the town dress in costumes for parade floats through the streets. Go to www.peebles-theroyalburgh.info. Mid-June.

Glasgow International Jazz Festival. Jazz musicians from all over the world come together to perform at various venues around the city. Visit www.jazzfest.co.uk. Late June to early July.

July

The Skye Festival/Fèis An Eilein, Isle of Skye. This series of concerts, ceilidhs, theatre performances, and children’s events helps to maintain the vibrancy of Skye’s culture. See www.isleofskye.com. Throughout July and August.

Hebridean Celtic Festival, Isles of Lewis and Harris. This music festival attracts the biggest names in the Scottish folk world. See www.hebceltfest.com. Mid-July.

Pride Glasgow, Glasgow. The city’s largest Gay Pride event is a huge gathering in Kelvingrove Park. Visit https://prideglasgow.com. Mid-July.

August

Lammas Fair, St Andrews. Ferris wheels and whirligigs are hauled in and street performers arrive in force for Scotland’s oldest surviving street fair. Visit www.event-standrews.co.uk. Five days in early August.

World Pipe Band Championships: Piping Live!, Glasgow. This weeklong festival of bagpiping takes place on Glasgow Green. Visit www.rspba.org or www.pipinglive.co.uk. Mid-August.

Edinburgh International Festival. Scotland’s best-known festival is held for 3 weeks (see chapter 5 for more information). More than 1,000 shows are hosted and 1,000,000 tickets sold. Numerous other festivals are also held in Edinburgh at this time, celebrating everything from books to jazz. Nothing tops the Military Tattoo against the backdrop of the floodlit Edinburgh Castle. For tickets, call tel. 0131/473-2000 or visit www.eif.co.uk. Three weeks in August.

Edinburgh Festival Fringe. For more than 70 years this alternative the city’s famous international festival has attracted comedians and all sorts of other performers, these days putting on 4,000 shows in 300 venues. Visit www.edfringe.com. Three weeks in August.

September

Ben Nevis Mountain Race, Fort William. A tradition since 1895, as many as 500 runners compete for the coveted MacFarlane Cup by running up the footpaths to the summit and back. Bagpipes rise in crescendos at the beginning and end of the race. See www.bennevisrace.co.uk. First Saturday in September.

Braemar Gathering. The Queen and other members of the royal family often show up for this annual event, with its massed bands, dancing competitions, and trials of great strength by a tribe of gigantic men. Visit www.braemargathering.org. First Saturday in September.

Camanachd Cup Final, different venue each year. The finale of the season’s games of shinty (a sometimes-brutal hockey variant) is an extraordinary spectacle. Visit www.shinty.com. Late September or early October.

October

Highland Autumn Cattle Show, Oban. Since the days of Rob Roy, Oban has been a marketplace for the distinctive Highland Cattle. Buyers and sellers descend on Oban to buy and sell at the industrial-looking Caledonian Auction Mart, 3 miles south of Oban. See www.highlandcattlesociety.com. Mid-October.

Sound Festival, Aberdeen. Performers from around the world and aficionados of avant-garde music gather at venues in and around the northern city. Visit www.sound-scotland.co.uk. Late October to early November.

November

Dundee Jazz Festival. Jazz musicians from around the world converge. See www.jazzdundee.co.uk. Throughout November.

December

Flambeaux Procession, Comrie, Tayside. This torchlight parade takes place on New Year’s Eve. For details, see www.gateway-to-the-scottish-highlands.com. December 31.

Hogmanay, Edinburgh. Hogmanay begins on New Year’s Eve and merges into New Year’s Day festivities. Events include a torchlight procession, a fire festival along Princes Street, a carnival, and a street-theatre spectacular. See www.edinburghshogmanay.com. December 31.

Regions in Brief

Scotland, Great Britain's oldest geological formation, is divided into three major regions: the Southern Uplands, smooth, rolling moorland broken with low crags and threaded with rivers and valleys, between the central plain and the English border; the Central Lowlands, where three valleys and the estuaries (firths) of the Clyde, Forth, and Tay rivers make up a fertile belt from the Atlantic Ocean to the North Sea; and the granite Highlands, with lochs (lakes), glens, and mountains, plus the hundreds of islands to the west and north. Each of these regions is then made up of smaller regions.

Edinburgh & the Lothian Region — This area includes not only the country's capital but also West Lothian, most of Midlothian, and East Lothian. Half medieval and half Georgian, Edinburgh is at its liveliest every August during the International Arts Festival, but you can visit Edinburgh Castle and Holyroodhouse and walk the Royal Mile year-round. This is one of Europe's most beautiful capitals, and in 3 days you can do it royally, taking in the highlights of the Old Town and the New Town, which include some of the country's major museums. Edinburgh is surrounded by such major attractions as the village of Cramond, the ancient town of Linlithgow, and Dirleton, the "prettiest village in Scotland."

The Borders & Galloway Regions — Witness to a turbulent history, the Borders and Galloway regions between England and Scotland are rich in castle ruins and Gothic abbeys.

Home of the cashmere sweater and the tweed suit, Borders proved a rich mine for the fiction of Sir Walter Scott. Highlights are Kelso, which Scott found "the most beautiful," and Melrose, site of the ruined Melrose Abbey and Scott's former home of Abbotsford. Ancient monuments include Jedburgh Abbey and Dryburg Abbey, Scott's burial place. At Floors Castle, outside Kelso, you can see one of the great mansions designed by William Adam.

Southwestern Scotland is known as the Galloway region. It consists of much of the former stamping ground of Robert Burns and includes such centers as Dumfries, Castle Douglas, and Moffat. Highlights are the artists' colony of Kirkcudbright, the baronial Threave Garden, Sweetheart Abbey outside Dumfries (the ruins of a Cistercian abbey from 1273), and the Burns Mausoleum at Dumfries.  The ruggedly beautiful coastline, etched with coves and tidal estuaries, cradles beautiful gardens at Threave and Port Logan, and some appealing seaside villages. The vast Galloway Forest Park sweeps across much of the mountainous interior.

Glasgow & the Strathclyde Region — A true renaissance has come to the once-grimy industrial city of Glasgow, and we recommend you spend at least 2 days in "the greatest surviving example of a Victorian city." Of course, part of the fun of going to Glasgow is meeting Glaswegians and, if only temporarily, becoming part of their lives. But there are plenty of museums and galleries, too, notably the Burrell Collection, a wealthy shipowner's gift of more than 8,000 items from the ancient world to the modern; and the Hunterian Art Gallery, with its array of masterpieces by everybody from Rembrandt to Whistler. The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, home of Britain's finest civic collection of British and European paintings, reopened in mid-2006 following significant restoration. There’s a lot of talk these days that Scotland’s onetime industrial powerhouse is undergoing a renaissance, but Scotland’s largest city never really lost its edge. Yes, many of the 19th- and 20th-century shipyards and factories are shuttered, but elegant Georgian merchants’ houses, Victorian monuments, and Scotland’s oldest medieval cathedral have long lent the city a distinctive presence.

Glasgow is at the doorstep of one of the most historic regions of Scotland. You can explore Robert Burns Country in the Strathclyde region, especially the district around Ayr and Prestwick, or visit a string of famous seaside resorts (including Turnberry, which boasts some of the country's greatest golf courses). An especially worthwhile destination in this region is Culzean Castle, overlooking the Firth of Clyde and designed by Robert Adam in the 18th century.

Glaswegians shows off an unpretentious worldliness in their shops, bars and clubs, and outstanding museum collections, as well as a taste for fine dining. Meanwhile, a strikingly modern exhibition center and auditorium, along with the bold new Glasgow Science Centre and the Riverside Museum, have all taken shape along the banks of the Clyde and signal the city’s move beyond the industrial past. When Glaswegians and their visitors want to take in some sea air they only need to make the short trip to the Ayrshire Coast, where they can also pay homage to poet Robert Burns at his birthplace in Alloway.

Argyll & the Southern Hebrides — Once the independent kingdom of Dalriada, the Argyll Peninsula of western Scotland is centered at Oban, a bustling port town and one of Scotland's leading coastal resorts. Ace attractions here are Argyll Forest Park, actually three forests—Benmore, Ardgartan, and Glenbranter—covering some 24,300 hectares (60,000 acres). You can also visit Loch Awe, a natural moat that protected the Campbells of Inveraray from their enemies to the north, and explore some of Scotland's most interesting islands, including the Isle of Arran, called "Scotland in miniature." The Isle of Islay is the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides, with lonely moors, lochs, tranquil bays, and windswept cliffs. The Isle of Jura, the fourth largest of the Inner Hebrides, is known for its red deer, and it was on this remote island that George Orwell wrote his masterpiece 1984. Finally, you can visit Kintyre, the longest peninsula in Scotland, more than 97km (60 miles) of beautiful scenery, sleepy villages, and sandy beaches. Much of the mainland is no tamer, especially in the vast Argyll Forest Park, carpeting some 24,300 hectares (60,000 acres) just to the east of Loch Fyne and its waterside, stage-set town of Inveraray.

Some 1,500 years ago these landscapes gave rise to the Kingdom of Dalriada, at Kilmartin Glen. Life may have been tough for these Dark Age inhabitants, but enjoyed some good weather: the North Atlantic drift blows in balmy temperatures that ensure nearby Arduaine Gardens thrive.

Fife & the Central Highlands — The "kingdom" of Fife is one of the most history-rich parts of Scotland, evocative of the era of romance and pageantry during the reign of the early Stuart kings. Its most enchanting stretch is a series of fishing villages called East Neuk. And Culross, renovated by the National Trust, could well be the most beautiful village in Scotland. Opening onto the North Sea, St. Andrews, the "Oxford of Scotland," is the capital of golf and boasts many great courses. The area is rich in castles and abbeys, notably Dunfermline Abbey, burial place of 22 royal personages, and Falkland Palace and Gardens, where Mary Queen of Scots came for hunting and hawking. You can also visit Stirling, dominated by its castle, where Mary Queen of Scots lived as an infant monarch. Loch Lomond, largest of the Scottish lakes, is fabled for its "bonnie, bonnie banks," and the Trossachs is perhaps the most beautiful area in Scotland, famed for its moors, mountains, and lakes. Dunfermline is the erstwhile capital of Scotland, seat of the Stuart monarchy, and resting place of 22 royals. In recent times, the duke and duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate) met at the University of St Andrews, the oldest and most prestigious in Scotland. The surrounding town is, of course, also famous for its golf links, the oldest in the world, but to put things in perspective, St Andrews Castle and Cathedral were already hundreds of years old when some sporty types started hitting balls around in 1552.

Aberdeen & Tayside & Grampian Regions -- Carved from the old counties of Perth and Angus, Tayside takes its name from its major river, the Tay, running for 192km (119 miles). One of the loveliest regions, it's known for salmon and trout fishing. Major centers are Perth, former capital of Scotland, standing where the Highlands meet the Lowlands; Dundee, an old seaport and royal burgh on the north shore of the Firth of Tay; and Pitlochry, a popular resort that's an ideal base for touring the Valley of the Tummel. The area abounds in castles and palaces, including Glamis, linked to British royalty for 10 centuries, and Scone, an art-filled palace from 1580. The great city of the north, Aberdeen is called Scotland's "Granite City" and ranks third in population. It's the best center for touring "castle country." Braemar is known for its scenery as well as for being the site of every summer's Royal Highland Gathering, and Balmoral Castle at Ballater was the "beloved paradise" of Queen Victoria and is still home to the royal family. Finally, you can follow the Whisky Trail to check out some of Scotland's most famous distilleries, including Glenlivet and Glenfiddich.

Inverness & the West Highlands — Land of rugged glens and majestic mountain landscapes, the Highlands is one of the great meccas of the United Kingdom. The capital is Inverness, one of the oldest inhabited localities in Scotland; another city of great interest is Nairn, old-time royal burgh and seaside resort. Top attractions are Loch Ness, home of the legendary "Nessie," and Cawdor Castle, the most romantic in the Highlands, linked with Macbeth. The Caledonian Canal, launched in 1803, stretches for 97km (60 miles) of man-made canal, joining the natural lochs. As you proceed to the north, you can visit the Black Isle, a historic peninsula, before heading for such far northern outposts as Ullapool, an 18th-century fishing village on the shores of Loch Broom (and, for some, a gateway to the Outer Hebrides), and John o' Groats, the most distant point to which you can drive, near the northernmost point of mainland Britain, Dunnet Head. Monsters, savage landscapes, and a turbulent history of clan warfare aside, the Highlands is a favorite retreat for hikers, climbers, fishermen, and other outdoors enthusiasts who relish some of Britain’s wildest terrain. Civilization intrudes gently in the inviting regional capital of Inverness, near the mouth of the River Ness. Some remarkable manmade wonders include the Caledonian Canal, begun in 1803 and stretching for 60 miles to join several natural lochs, and Cawdor Castle, an altogether pleasant lordly seat despite some purely fictional bloodletting from the pen of Shakespeare (the residents have said they wish the Bard had never written that “damned play”). The Highlands ends with a bang, that is, with lots of dramatic scenery, at Dunnet Head, the northernmost point on the British mainland.

The Hebridean Islands — The chain of the Inner Hebrides lies just off the west coast of the mainland. The major center is the Isle of Skye, a mystical island and subject of the Scottish ballad "Over the Sea to Skye." If you have time to visit only one island, make it Skye -- it's the most beautiful and intriguing. However, the Isle of Mull, third largest of the Inner Hebrides, is also rich in legend and folklore, including ghosts, monsters, and the "wee folk." Iona, off the coast of Mull, is known as the "Grave of Kings," with an abbey dating from the 13th century. Those with time remaining can also explore the Outer Hebrides, notably Lewis, the largest and most northerly. Along with the island of Harris, Lewis stretches for a combined length of some 153km (95 miles). This is a relatively treeless land of marshy peat bogs and ancient relics.

The Orkney & Shetland Islands — These northern outposts of British civilization are archipelagos consisting of some 200 islands, about 40 of which are inhabited. With a rich Viking heritage, they reward visitors with scenery and antiquities. Major centers of the Orkneys are Kirkwall, established by Norse invaders and the capital of the Orkneys for 9 centuries, and Stromness, the main port of the archipelago and once the last port of call before the New World. Lerwick is the capital of the Shetlands and has been since the 17th century. All these islands are filled with ancient monuments: The most outstanding are Midhower Broch (brochs are fortified structures, often called "castles of the Picts"); tombs on Rousay, dating from the Iron Age and called the "great ship of death"; Quoyness Chambered Tomb, on Sanday, a spectacular chambered cairn from 2900 B.C.; the Ring of Brodgar, between Loch and Stenness, a stone circle of some 36 stones dating from 1560 B.C. and called the "Stonehenge of Scotland"; and Skara Brae, a Neolithic village joined by covered passages, last occupied about 2500 B.C.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Scotland is one of the "greenest" countries. "We discovered green before the rest of the world," boasted the tourist director of Inverness. "Come to our Highlands and discover that fact for yourself."

In summer, eco-travelers often see much of the panoramic and challenging Scottish terrain by bike. Touring by bike is a bit difficult in the Highlands, but easier around the Kingdom of Fife, Glasgow, and Edinburgh, as the countryside is filled with scenic lanes. Of course, you'll have to stop for sheep crossings.

Most of the Western Isles, and Shetland and Orkney, can also be traversed by bike. Bike rentals are found in most major towns and cities. Transporting bikes on Scotland's many ferries is possible, in most cases, for very little money.

Many visitors come to Scotland just to explore its parks. The Association of National Park Authorities (www.nationalparks.gov.uk) offers data on all of the U.K.'s national parks, including those in Scotland, and provides hiking advice.

If you live in the United States, you can get information before you go from The Mountaineers Books, at 1001 SW Klickitat Way, Ste. 201, Seattle, WA 98134 (tel. 206/223-6303; www.mountaineersbooks.org), which has an extensive collection of titles on hiking, biking, and mountaineering in Britain, especially Scotland.

The best national parks for exploring in Scotland include the Trossachs, Loch Lomond, and the Cairngorms.

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

• • Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• • In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.com) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

• • In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

• • In Australia, the national body that sets guidelines and standards for ecotourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au).

• • Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.com), and CoolClimate (www.coolclimate.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• • Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. The Hotel Association of Canada (www.hacgreenhotels.com) has a Green Key Eco-Rating Program, which audits the environmental performance of Canadian hotels, motels, and resorts.

• • Visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

• • For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.uk.whales.org).

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.idealist.org.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Bars, clubs, restaurants, and hotels catering to gays are confined almost exclusively to Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Inverness. Contact the Strathclyde Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (tel. 0141/847-0447) for information on events.

Scotland doesn't boast much of a gay scene. Gay-bashing happens, especially in the grimy industrial sections of Glasgow, where neo-Nazi skinheads hang out. Although it's a crime, it's rarely punished. Open displays of affection between same-sex couples usually invite scorn in rural Scotland.

The best guide is Spartacus Britain and Ireland. For up-to-the-minute activities in Britain, we recommend Gay Times (London).

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Getting Around

By Car

Driving in Scotland is straightforward and often enjoyable, once drivers from outside the U.K. become accustomed to driving on the left. A small network of motorways link the main urban areas, while “A” roads, often “dual carriageways” (divided highways), spread out over the rest of Scotland. In more remote areas—especially the islands of western Scotland—single-lane roads are often the only link to small communities. Passing places are provided but caution is important because many of these roads are unfenced and livestock often wanders into the road.

Becoming a Leftie

Scots, like other residents of the U.K., drive on the left, so if you’re coming from the U.S. or most other countries, you’ll need to adjust. Here are some tips to help you do so.

• Unless you’re comfortable using a stick shift, ask for a car with an automatic transmission (for which you’ll pay more). If you’re not used to driving a manual, you don't want to add the challenge of changing gears and working a clutch to the rigors of driving on the left.
• Become familiar with the car before getting onto the road. To keep distractions to a minimum, get to know the gears, switches, and controls so you can keep your eyes on the road.
• Do some practice rounds in the rental car parking lot or on a less-traveled road before pulling onto busy highways. If you’re staying in a rural location outside a city, it might pay to have your car delivered to you, so you can get in some practice away from traffic.
• Enter roadways carefully. By instinct, you’ll probably be tempted to look to the left when pulling out, and that’s exactly opposite of what you should be doing—in most cases, oncoming traffic will be coming from the right.
• Keep the centerline on your right. If you’re driving on the left, the centerline will be to the right of the driver’s side of the road. Of course, many roads in Scotland are single track and don’t have centerlines, in which case you’ll find pullouts you can use to allow an oncoming car to pass.
• Be careful in roundabouts. They’re everywhere in Scotland, and handy for traffic management as they are, Americans might need to take a little time to adjust to them. When approaching, remember that traffic in the roundabout always has the right of way. Once in, go slow and keep to the right so you can exit easily and safely. And of course, remember that traffic in a roundabout in Scotland or elsewhere in the U.K. will be moving in a clockwise direction.
• Drive cautiously and keep your wits about you. Easy does it until you get used to left-side driving. Take heart, because with a little practice, driving on the left will soon seem natural to you.

Car Rentals — If you’re considering hiring a car in Scotland try the website Autoslash.com. It will apply all of the discount codes available to your rental upon booking; and then it will continue to search for better rates until you pick up the car. If a better price is found, the site automatically re-books you. We have yet to find a better service for rental cars. Some companies require drivers to be at least 23 years old, although 21 is more standard. To rent a car in Scotland, you must present your passport and driver’s license. Be aware that a further 20% VAT (Valued Added Tax) will be added to your bill.

Car-Rental Excess

It’s illegal to drive without unlimited third-party insurance in the U.K., and the cost is included as standard in rental rates. This means you're covered if you cause damage or injury another person, vehicle, or property but you are not covered for damage to your vehicle. However, the excess (deductible) against this insurance is often as high as £1,000 unless you pay for a reduced excess which can, if you take the car rental company’s policy, often be more than half the cost of the car rental. A number of companies offer slightly less-expensive insurance against car-rental excess. Under these policies you still have to pay the excess to the car rental company, but you then claim it back from the insurance company. You can often choose between annual and single trip coverage. Companies that provide this insurance include Insurance 4 Car Hire (www.insurance4carhire.com; tel. 01883/724-001) and Car Hire Excess (www.carhireexcess.com; tel. 0818/444-447).

Gasoline — There are plenty of gas (“petrol”) stations in and around main urban areas, but in more remote locations they’re few and far between and so always make sure you have a good supply before venturing away from larger towns and cities. At press time, prices charged for gasoline in the U.K. stand at around £1.20 per liter (1 U.S. gallon = 3.785 liters).

Driving Rules & Requirements — In Scotland and the whole of the U.K., you drive on the left and pass on the right and always give way to traffic coming from the right at a roundabout. If you’re driving on a single lane road, you must use the passing places on the left side of the road, give priority to traffic traveling uphill, and never park in a passing place. Pedestrian crossings not controlled by traffic lights are marked by white striped lines (zebra striping) on the road and sometimes flashing lights near the curb. Drivers must stop and yield the right of way to any pedestrian waiting to cross or has already stepped out into the zebra crossing.

Look Both Ways!

Even if you adjust easily to driving on the left, don’t trust your instincts. Always look both ways before pulling into traffic, to make sure you don’t lapse into your right-oriented habits. Likewise, when on foot, always look both ways when crossing a street.

By Plane

To reach some of the farthest flung regions of the Highlands and Islands, an internal flight is often the quickest option. Flybe (www.flybe.com) and Loganair (www.loganair.co.uk) operate domestic routes from Glasgow and Edinburgh; for example, both fly to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis and the northern airport of Wick John o’ Groats, while Loganair serves the Shetland Islands and the Hebridean island of Tiree.

Slow Sundays

We’re not saying that when it comes to travel “never on Sunday” is the rule, but be forewarned that many train, bus, and ferry services are severely curtailed. A journey with transfers that might take a few hours on a weekday can take all day on a Sunday. So, check schedules carefully and plan accordingly. A tip: If you’re using Traveline to plan a trip, always put in the exact date of travel, as schedules can vary daily, and almost always do so on Sundays.

By Train

Traveling by train is one of the best ways to see Scotland and travel between different regions. The cost of rail travel within Scotland is generally quite low and services are normally frequent, punctual, and reliable, while the line from Glasgow to the West Highlands and other routes is among the most scenic in the world.

The main train operator in Scotland is ScotRail (www.scotrail.co.uk; tel. 0845/601-5929), with a network of rail routes around the country. Some of the smaller stations are unstaffed and tickets must be purchased on the train from the conductor. In addition to standard single and return fares, ScotRail offers a number of ticket deals. With the Kids Go Free deal (www.scotrail.co.uk/kidsgofree), two children between ages 5 and 15 can travel free with an adult as long as you travel during off-peak hours and make the return journey on the same day. A number of attractions in Scotland are linked with this deal and allow free entry for one child traveling on these tickets. Tickets can be bought in advance on the day of travel. Discounts of 33% are also available for groups of three to five adults traveling together; to find out more, ask about GroupSave for small groups when purchasing your tickets.

A Senior Railcard (www.senior-railcard.co.uk) slashes a third off rail travel for passengers 60 and older. Young adults between ages 16 and 25 can purchase an annual 16-25 Railcard, which saves a third of the price on all rail tickets for a year. A yearlong pass costs £30, 3 years for £70; year-long passes can be bought online at www.16-25railcard.co.uk or at any staffed station, while 3-year passes may only be bought online.

The Royal Scotsman (www.belmond.com; tel. 800/524-2420 or 401/884-0090) is on one of the most luxurious trains in the world. Known as “a country house hotel on wheels,” it offers a choice of routes that depart from Edinburgh’s Waverley station and sweep past ancient mountains and misty lochs and through glens and villages. The train carries a maximum of 36 guests, allowing each passenger plenty of sumptuous space to spread out, and travelers can expect plush beds and opulent en-suite bathrooms. Tours range from the 2-night Highland Journey at £3,100 per person to the 7-night Grand Western Journey Scenic Wonders Journey at £10,102 per passenger. Prices include all meals, drinks, and sightseeing excursions.

Get on Track for a Scenic Show

Scotland can look at its scenic best from a train window, and some journeys put on an especially good show. Among the most scenic are the West Highland Line, from Glasgow to Oban or Fort William, alongside the Clyde estuary, through mountains, and along the shores of glimmering lochs; the Kyle Line, from Inverness through the moors and glens of the Highlands to Kyle of Lochalsh, gateway to the Isle of the Skye, for even more scenery; the Far North Line, from Inverness up the North Sea coast past salmon-filled rivers to Thurso and Wick; and the Borders Railway, from Edinburgh into the green vales and rolling hills of the beautiful Borders region.

Four other similar ScotRail touring passes are available, each covering a different section of the country and working with different ferry and bus operators. With a couple of exceptions, travel isn’t permitted on any train before 9:15am Monday through Friday. Anyone planning to travel on ScotRail’s Caledonian Sleeper trains with these passes is strongly advised to make reservations. More information is available on ScotRail’s website. Tickets can be bought online or from any staffed station.

Scottish CityLink (www.citylink.co.uk; tel. 08705/505-050) operates a frequent and inexpensive coach service for all Scotland’s cities and large towns. The Explorer Pass allows unlimited travel on a set number of days within a consecutive time period; for example, 3 travel days within 5 days costs £49, 5 travel days within 10 days costs £74, and 8 travel days within 16 days costs £99. Tickets can be purchased on the CityLink website.

Stagecoach also runs many services across Scotland; for full details of its routes and timetables, visit www.stagecoachbus.com. Megabus (www.megabus.com) also operates routes between many of Scotland’s towns and cities.

Tap & Ride

The good news: CityLink, Stagecoach, First Glasgow, Lothian, and many other Scottish bus networks now accept credit cards for onboard payment. The bad news: Most accept only contactless credit cards, in which you simply tap the card on a reader next to the driver. Trouble is, if you’re American, you may not have a contactless card in your wallet, as they’re only now being introduced to the U.S. market. You may ask your card issuer for a contactless card (American Express is among those that will issue them on request). Or, resort to some old-fashioned methods and buy your bus ticket in advance or pay in cash (but remember, drivers on some systems are not able to give change, and those who do often won’t be able to accept large bills).

Money

Britain’s monetary system is the pound Sterling (£). There are 100 pence (written as “p”) to a pound. Colloquially, pounds are also referred to as “quid.” Scotland issues its own pound notes, but English and Scottish money is interchangeable. Coins come in denominations of £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p. Banknotes are issued in denominations of £5, £10, £20, and £50.

In Scotland, ATMs usually offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees. You can find ATMs at almost all bank branches, as well as at most large supermarkets, some petrol stations, in shopping malls, and some post offices.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Major Change in Credit Cards

Chip & PIN is the system adopted in Scotland and the rest of Britain for the use of credit and debit cards, and with which the user inserts the card into a machine and enters a PIN number. American chip cards don’t usually require a PIN, just a signature, but you should have no trouble using these cards in Scotland. Contactless credit cards are also widely used in Scotland; with these, the user simply holds the card near the terminal. However, unless your card is equipped with contactless technology, you will not be able to use it with these terminals.

Warning: Some establishments in Scotland might not accept your credit card unless you have a computer chip embedded in it.

What Things Cost in Edinburgh (U.K. £)

Airlink bus into the center of Edinburgh: 4.50

Average bus fare within Edinburgh: 1.70

Double room (expensive): 180.00

Double room (moderate): 120.00

Double room (inexpensive): 60.00

Dinner (expensive): 40.00

Dinner (moderate): 20.00

Dinner (inexpensive): 12.00

Average price of a drink in a nightclub: 4.00

Average cover charge at a nightclub: 5.00–12.00

Average theatre seat: 15.00

Average movie ticket: 12.00

Admission to Edinburgh Castle: 18.50

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

When booking rooms, ask whether family suites are available. Accommodations in more rural areas sometimes have self-catering cottages or apartments, which might be an ideal solution for families trying to save some money and looking for a bit more space than a typical hotel room. Note that some castles and more private luxury accommodations do not accept young children as guests. Such instances are noted in all reviews.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Travel with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Traveling with Minors -- It's always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling with children. For up-to-date details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, go to the U.S. Department of State website (www.travel.state.gov). All children must have their own passport. In the United States, parents or guardians can find answers to any questions they might have by calling the National Passport Information Center at tel. 877/487-2778.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Facilities for people with disabilities are improving all the time in Scotland. Legislation requires that new public buildings are fully accessible to wheelchair-users; new public buses and black taxis are generally wheelchair-friendly; and many theatres and cinemas offer induction loops for the hard of hearing. One obstacle is that listed historic buildings are not allowed to widen entrances, build permanent ramps, or in many cases install elevators. A plus is that people with disabilities are often granted special discounts (“concessions”) at attractions and entertainment venues. Free information and advice for people with disabilities traveling throughout Britain are available from Tourism for All (www.tourismforall.org.uk; tel. 0845/124-9971).

For international travel, Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com; tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends. Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 877/451-5006) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports, and private tours in minivans with lifts.

The Moss Rehab Hospital (www.mossresourcenet.org; tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]) provides a library of accessible-travel resources online. Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel, and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; www.afb.org; tel. 800/232-5463) provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

Staying Connected

Calling Scotland — To call Scotland from the United States, dial the international prefix, 011; then Scotland's country code, 44; then the city code (for example, 131 for Edinburgh and 141 for Glasgow — minus the initial zero, which is used only if you're dialing from within the United Kingdom); then dial the phone number.

Mobile Phones — If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capacity multiband phone (most are these days) you can make and receive calls in Scotland. You’ll need to opt for an “international roaming” plan with your carrier, and these are often available, providing voice and data, for about $10 a day. If you have an unlocked phone, you may also install a prepaid SIM card; a retailer who sells these inexpensive cards will usually install them for you. You’ll be assigned a new number and be able to make and receive calls at much lower rates than those for international calls with many U.S.-based plans. You might also consider simply buying an inexpensive phone with a prepaid card to use while you’re in Scotland. Many carriers also offer the capability to make calls via the internet, similar to Skype or other internet-based services; if your plan offers the service, your phone will switch to this mode as soon as you connect to Wi-Fi. The only drawback is that you need to be in Wi-Fi range to make calls; check with your carrier about a Wi-Fi calling feature.

Internet & Wi-Fi — There are abundant opportunities to connect to the Internet just about everywhere in Scotland, with Wi-Fi in most hotels, cafes, and other public spaces; if in need of a connection in a small town or village, the public library is always a good option.

Today nearly all hotels in Scotland provide Internet access either within the bedrooms/rooms or in public areas, and even some upmarket B&Bs offer this service as well. Most laptops in Scotland operate on 110 or 200 volts, and in such cases only an adapter is needed. Of course, it is always best to ask at your hotel or B&B before plugging your computer into any socket. In the rare case that your hotel doesn't have surge protection, you might damage your computer. A surge protector can be purchased in Scotland and plugged into a socket.

Visitor Information

Before you go, you can get information and maps from the British Tourist Authority (www.visitbritain.com). Visitors can email queries or brochure requests to travelinfo@visitbritain.org, or else search www.visitbritain.us.

You can visit the Scottish Tourist Board's website at www.visitscotland.com. Once you're in Scotland, though, you can stop by the Edinburgh & Scotland Information Centre, 249 High Street, Edinburgh, City Of Edinburgh, EH1 1YJ (tel. 131/473-3868; www.visitscotland.com). From October to May it's open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm. June and September hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm and Sunday 10am to 6pm. From July to August, hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 7pm.

There are more than 170 tourist centers in Scotland, all well signposted in their cities or towns; some are closed in winter, however.

Websites — The most useful site was created by a very knowledgeable source, the British Tourist Authority itself, with U.S. visitors targeted. A wealth of information is tapped at www.travelbritain.com, which lets you order brochures online, provides trip-planning hints, and even allows e-mail questions for prompt answers. All of Great Britain is covered.

If you're surfing the Web for accommodations, a good site to browse is www.visitscotland.com (site of the Scotland Tourist Board).

A lot of individual tourist board websites are helpful. The best of these include information on the Borders at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/scottish-borders; on the Highlands at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/highlands; on Ayrshire and Arran at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/ayrshire-arran; on Argyll and the Isles, Lock Lomond, Stirling, and the Trossachs at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/loch-lomond-trossachs-stirling-forth-valley; on Perthshire at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/perthshire; on Angus and Dundee at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/dundee-angus; on Glasgow at www.peoplemakeglasgow.com; and on Aberdeen and the Grampian region at www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/aberdeen-city-shire.

Travel information for the whole of Scotland is offered on Visit Scotland's national telephone hot line, available for inquiries from the U.K. and overseas. Travel advisors are available to help you book accommodations throughout Scotland—hotels, guesthouses, or bed-and-breakfasts—or find out about special offers, events, and attractions to visit. You can order brochures as well. Advisors are available Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 5:30pm (U.K. time). In the U.K., call tel. 845/225-5121; from overseas or go online to www.visitscotland.com.

Budgeting Adventure — If you're going to be visiting a large number of Scotland's historic properties, your best bet is the Explorer Pass (www.historicenvironment.scot). It gives you savings on 75 of Scotland's most visited historic attractions, including Edinburgh, Stirling, and Urquhart castles. The pass is available at all of Scotland's historical sites, tourist information centers, and on the Web at www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/explorer-passes. For more information call tel. 131/668-8600.