In a town blessed with a number of good dim sum spots, this is one of the best for variety and freshness, though the ambience is practical rather than fancy. Dim sum is small plates of steamed or fried food that are hustled around the restaurant on carts. When you want something from a particular cart, you motion to the waiter and tell him how many plates of that particular dish you want (dim sum is about sharing). If you’re new to dim sum, start with some basics like humbow (steamed buns stuffed with sweet barbecued pork), ha gao (shrimp dumpling) and sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves. Don’t faint if a cart of steamed chicken feet rolls past: In China they are a delicacy.