Sabina, the owner of Umalas Equestrian, Jl. Lestari 9X, Banjar Umalas Kauh -- Kerobokan (tel. 0361/731402; www.balionhorse.com; 1/2-hour rice field tour US$25, 2-hour beach tour US$72, 3-hour beach tour US$102; daily, by reservation, from 7am-9pm), fell in love with Bali 14 years ago. Sabina explains, "I came to Bali and everything was here, beautiful countryside, beaches, and people but I missed my horses so I came up with a plan." Umalas includes 35 stables, indoor and outdoor arenas, paddocks, a swimming pool, a restaurant, and even accommodation for those looking to book a riding holiday.
Spas are open daily. Body Works, Jl. Kayu Jati 2 (tel. 0361/733317; www.bodyworksbali.com; massage Rp79,000-Rp289,000, infrared sauna Rp150,000-Rp320,000, facial Rp135,000-Rp319,000; MC, V; 9am-10pm), was the first spa in Seminyak in 1994 and now looks rather dated with its Moroccan-inspired design and girls dressed in sarongs and kebayas in blue. Cattycorner to the Petitenget Temple, Body Works enjoys much popularity simply because of its location. Blow dries, crème baths, and manicures and pedicures are the mainstays here as are Balinese massage, lulur scrubs, and the ever-popular aloe vera facials. The infrared sauna has the most jaded housewives of Seminyak booking in for a miracle cure.
One of the spas in the Villas Bali Hotel and Spa, Chill (Classic US$13, Ultimate Chill US$18, Chill Out US$15, Holistic Chill US$23; AE, MC, V; 10am-10pm), has built a fine reputation for reflexology. The Ultimate Chill is a 90-minute indulgence concentrating on the feet, ankles, neck, and shoulders in a combination of reflexology and acupressure. Advance booking is recommended. The Prana Spa (ayurveda US$84-US$263, massage US$82-US$165; AE, DC, MC, V; 9am-10pm), also in the Villas Bali Hotel and Spa, sets itself apart simply by its totally incongruous Mogul-inspired architecture with turrets, towers, look-out posts to nowhere, and ornate hand-painted frescoes. Some of the treatments get their inspiration from the Majapahit royal courts and others hail from ayurvedic medicine. The hotel affiliation offers excellent spa packages and spa cuisine at the attached cafe.
When Glo, Jl. Kunti 119 (tel. 0361/738689; www.glogarage.com; mani/pedi Rp110,000-Rp307,000, brows and lashes Rp110,000-Rp185,000, wax Rp46,000-Rp198,000, facial Rp380,000-Rp430,000; MC, V; 10am-8pm), opened in Seminyak women from around the island breathed a sigh of relief as finally there was a place to get European-quality manicures and pedicures and not just a foot rub and a splash of paint. The facials are some of the best on the island.
Treatments at Jari Menari, Jl. Raya Seminyak (tel. 0361/736740; www.jarimenari.com; four hand massage Rp440,000; MC, V; 9am-9pm), are some of the best worldwide not to mention in Bali. All male masseuses give the infamous "Four Handed Massage," which gives you the pleasure of four palms applying perfect pressure rather than just two. Tuesday massage classes teach a nine-step 25-minute massage sequence. The session starts with a 40-minute yoga class. Students watch demonstrations and then give and receive treatments. You'll be the best souvenir to give to a loved one back home.
The spa (massage US$45-US$90, ayurveda US$99, hot stone US$55-US$75, Balinese Eternal Bliss package US$120-US$210; AE, DC, MC, V; 9am-10pm) at the Samaya has a standout location on the beach -- it doesn't get any more calming than this. If you're travelling as two, book into a beachfront treatment room and enjoy the Balinese Eternal Bliss couples' treatment that lasts 2 1/2 hours. Book this package at sunset and enjoy the view -- of the sunset and each other.
Overlooking the rolling surf of the Indian Ocean, the spa (massage US$65-US$120, beauty treatment US$20-US$120; AE, MC, V; 10am-9pm) at the Legian is famous for its totally self-contained single and double treatment suites, each with a private bathroom and steam room. The treatments are diverse: Chose from ayurvedic shiro dhara, warm stone massage, and reflexology. Excellent couples' massages are available as well as the exotic royal Javanese lulur and Balinese borah body wrap.
Spa Venus (Balinese massage Rp160,000-Rp290,000, reflexology Rp160,000, detox, up to 11 days, US$550-US$950; AE, MC, V; 10am-10pm), in the Villa Kubu, offers treatments for longer-lasting results. Massage is by blind therapists who miraculously find those spots that need the most attention. Therapies also include acupuncture, naturopathy, craino-sacral therapy, and energy healing.