Planning a trip to Seoul

Getting Around

By Subway -- Seoul is covered by an extensive and modern subway system, the Seoul Metro (www.smrt.co.kr or www.subwayworld.co.kr). The system is fast, clean, safe, and cheap, and runs frequently. But the best things about the Metro are that it can take you anywhere and everywhere you'll want to go in Seoul, and the maps and recordings are in English.

There are two important things to remember about the subway. The first is to avoid rush hours (weekdays from about 8-9am and 6-7pm) if you can help it. The second is that the trains stop running around midnight (which is also when taxi fares go up about 20%-50%), so it's best to plan your late-night travel in advance. Trains start running again at 5:30am.

Although you can buy single fares, it is much more convenient (and cheaper) to buy a pass -- it will save you the hassle and time of having to wait in line to buy your ticket. The minimum fare is W1,000 or W900 with a T-money card or Seoul City Pass+), which allows you to ride up to 12km (7 1/2 miles). Note: Remember to hold onto your ticket or card, as you'll need it to exit the station, as well.

You can buy or recharge a T-money card (www.t-money.co.kr) at subway stations, at kiosks near bus stops, and at convenient stores displaying the T-money logo. The prepaid card has a base fee of W3,000 and, once purchased, can be loaded in amounts ranging from W1,000 to W50,000 from an automated travel card recharge machine, located at every subway station. It can be used on both buses and subways. Just touch the card to the sensor both when you enter and when you exit a station or bus. When you leave the city, any unused amount on the card, up to W20,000, can be refunded at any subway ticket office.

If you're in Seoul for a brief time, the Seoul City Pass (www.seoulcitypass.com) may be a better option for you. You can board any bus or subway 20 times within a 24-hour period (ending at midnight), including unlimited on/off privileges on the Seoul City Tour Bus (the double-decker tour buses run by the city). The pass does not include the red buses bound for Incheon or Gyeonggi-do. One-day passes cost W15,000, 2-day W25,000, and 3-day W35,000. Just touch your card to the sensor when you get on or off the bus, or enter or leave the subway. Note: The Seoul City Tour Bus does not operate on Mondays.

Your best option is the Seoul City Pass+ (www.seoulcitypass.com), which functions like a T-money card for tourists, so can be used on both buses and subways. It can be purchased at automatic travel card machines in subway stations, GS25 convenient stores, and select tourist info centers. With a base fee of W3,000, you can add value to the card in any amount from W1,000 to W90,000 at an automated travel card recharge machine, located at every subway station, or from 24-hour convenience stores (for example, GS25, Family Mart, Buy the Way, or MiniStop). You can use the card for purchases at these same convenience stores, where you also can get a refund for any unused amount, at the end of your visit. The card can also be used at Kyobo Bookstore, Lotte World, Daemyung Resort, select vending machines, self-serve lockers, KTL public phones, and a few taxis (the ones that have the card reader). It also provides discounts to some theaters, museums, and restaurants.

Subway system maps are available on all trains and above each station's ticket window, but I recommend carrying a small map with you (there's one on the back of this book). Neighborhood maps inside the stations can help you decide which of the many exits to take. The stations are generally clean and have restrooms (some may be the old "squat" style, but look for a stall with a toilet, since there usually is at least one in each bathroom). Tip: Public restrooms are sometimes lacking in toilet paper, so always carry a pack of tissues with you.

By Taxi -- You can flag down a taxi almost anywhere in Seoul. There are two types of taxis, and both are generally clean and safe. All taxis are metered with fares determined by distance and time. If you don't see a meter in the taxi, you probably want to take a different one. On the way to Incheon Airport, passengers have to pay the road toll on top of the meter charge. Sharing a cab with strangers is supposedly illegal, but people do it often during rush hour and after midnight, when subways and buses stop running. Tipping is not necessary, but most passengers round up and let the driver keep the change.

Regular (Ilban) Taxis are usually silver, blue, or white and have a light-up "taxi" sign on top. The base fare is usually around W1,900 and goes up every 2km (1 1/4 miles), going up W100 every 144m (1/10 mile) or 41 seconds. Most drivers usually don't speak English, so it's best to have your destination written down in English (since most Koreans learn written English in school), or, even better, in Korean. Fares for regular taxis increase 20% from midnight to 4am.

Deluxe (Mobeum) Taxis, which are black, cost almost twice as much as the regular taxis, but can be convenient for many reasons. The drivers are trained to serve foreigners and can speak basic English. Especially useful for business travelers, deluxe taxis have free phone service, take credit cards, and will offer a receipt.

By Bus -- Unlike the streamlined subway system, Seoul's buses (tel. 02/414-5005; www.bus.go.kr) can be complicated and confusing for visitors. The good news, though, is that with over 400 bus routes in the city, the buses can take you pretty much anywhere you want to go. A few buses have major destinations written in English on the outside and have audio announcing each major stop in Korean (an occasional English announcement will be made at subway stations or major tourist destinations). However, smaller stops won't have English-language announcements, the maps aren't in English, and the majority of bus drivers do not speak English.

There are three types of buses and they run on the same schedule as the subways, daily from 5:30am to around midnight (a few routes go as late as 2am). Bus passes can be purchased at newsstands near bus stops in increments of W5,000, W10,000, or W20,000. You can also use your T-money card or Seoul City Pass. Just touch your card to the screen when you enter (at the front door) and don't forget to touch your card when you exit the bus (through the back door).

Express buses, although slightly more expensive, are usually faster and more comfortable than regular buses, since seats are available. There are fewer stops and they provide air-conditioning (a bonus in the summer). The fare is W1,100 and can be paid with tokens, cash, bus passes, or the T-money card.

Ilban (regular) buses (blue) have more stops, but are cheaper than express buses. The fare is W1,000 (cheaper for students and children) and can be paid with a token, cash, a bus pass, or a T-money card. Route maps are in English on a few bus stops but not on the buses themselves.

Maeul ("village") buses (green) shuttle people within short distances in a neighborhood. The green buses cost W1,000 and travel only within a district. They usually take exact change only, tokens, bus passes, and T-money cards.

Tip: Whichever bus you take, you can get a free transfer if you take a different bus (or transfer from bus to subway) within 30 minutes from when you get off. Just remember to touch your card to the screen before exiting the bus to get the discount.

By Car -- Driving around Seoul can be a hair-raising experience and is not recommended. However, you can rent a car starting at around W70,000 per day, cheaper for multiple days. You have to be at least 21 years old and have an International Driving Permit (IDP), which you can get in your home country before you leave. In the U.S. there are only two authorized organizations that provide IDPs -- the American Automobile Association (www.aaa.com) and American Automotive Touring Alliance (tel. 800/622-7070). The best place to rent a car is at Incheon Airport. Check prices at South Korea's largest car-rental company, Kumho-Hertz (www.kumhorent.com), or Avis (www.avis.co.kr). Be sure to be aware of surrounding traffic and be sure not to drive in the blue lanes (usually on the left), which are reserved for buses only, 24 hours a day. Watch your speed limit on expressways, since there are hidden cameras waiting to catch you and administer stiff fines.

A safer option is to rent both a car and a driver, which costs about W75,000 for 3 hours and W142,000 for 10 hours. Your hotel concierge should be able to help you. Some high-end hotels also have their own limousine services.

On Foot -- Seoul is virtually impossible to explore by walking alone; however, certain neighborhoods are best enjoyed on foot and some degree of walking will be necessary to explore the city. Be careful when crossing streets, since Seoul drivers are not trained to stop for pedestrians and don't always stop at red lights. Use pedestrian walkways and underpasses where available. Traffic turning right at lights does not give way to pedestrians, nor does any other traffic unless forced to do so by large groups of people bunching up to cross the road.

Seoul City Tour Bus -- This double-decker tour bus, run by the city of Seoul, is an economical and efficient way to see the city's major tourist destinations. The main downtown tour starts in front of the Donghwa DFS in Gwanghwamun, but you can jump on at any of the 28 stops. The buses leave daily, every 30 minutes from 9am to 7pm with a full tour taking 2 hours. Tour guides speak English, Japanese, and can get by in a few other languages. They also provide headsets with information available in five languages. Just look for the red, white, and blue Seoul City Tour Bus signs in front of any of the 28 locales. A 1-day pass costs W10,000 for adults, W8,000 for children, and you can purchase tickets at the Gwanghwamun counter or on the bus itself.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Seoul is made up of districts, neighborhoods, and areas, and it can be difficult to get a sense of where things are. To make matters more complicated, neighborhoods may overlap districts, or be broken down into multiple areas, each with its own name. I strongly suggest using the maps provided here, including the subway map on the back inside cover, and major landmarks to orient yourself.

Jongno -- At the center of the city, Jongno (not to be confused with the Jongno-gu district) is the oldest part of downtown Seoul. Here you will find the Gwanghwamun (the large gate) and Namsan (South Mountain), easily recognizable by the massive tower at its peak.

Insadong -- This area, nestled within Jongno-gu, used to be the home of royalty and to yangban (aristocratic) families, but that was during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Insadong is now filled with art galleries, ceramics stores, and traditional handicraft shops. You can also enjoy a traditional Korean meal or take a peaceful break alongside artists and monks in one of Insadong's many tea shops.

Samcheong-dong -- This area has grown into the city's contemporary art center as galleries have migrated here from Insadong. There are still many stores and galleries in Insadong, but Samcheong-dong has attracted more of the higher-priced, modern collections. Many art centers have their own cafes or restaurants, so you can enjoy a quick bite while admiring the paintings or ceramics.

Myeongdong -- The major shopping district for clothing and accessories in Seoul, Myeongdong has more midpriced and higher-priced items in its boutique shops than the two open markets of Namdaemun and Dongdaemun.

Namdaemun -- The oldest and largest traditional market in all of Korea, Namdaemun shijang (market) has vendors selling clothing, local products, and pretty much everything but the kitchen sink. Many of the small shops sell their wares directly from their own factories, so you can get both retail and wholesale prices.

Dongdaemun -- The area around the former stadium (and future design plaza) is home to one of the major marketplaces in South Korea, the Dongdaemun shijang. There are two sections, one retail and one wholesale (with shops selling things mostly in bulk), that open at night and get really busy during the wee hours of the morning.

Itaewon -- Itaewon is the foreigners' district, which grew up around the American military base in Seoul. Once a shady red-light district, it's been cleaned up, and lots of good international restaurants have sprung up here. You can still find ladies of the night walking down certain streets at night, but during the day it's a shopper's paradise. You'll find a great selection of clothing, shoes, luggage, and leather goods, mostly made in South Korea.

Sinchon/Idae-ap (Ewha University area)/Hongdae-ap (Hong-ik University area) -- These neighborhoods surround Yonsei, Sogang, Hong-ik, and Ewha universities. The area near the entrance to the Ewha Women's University is great for shopping for women's clothes and accessories (that is, if you're a size 6 or smaller -- Korean sizes run very small). The area in front of Hong-ik University (Hongdae-ap) is known for its hopping nightlife and cafe culture. Indeed, all of Seoul's university neighborhoods are bustling with cafes, restaurants, bars, and plenty of shopping for college students and everyone else.

Daehangno -- When Seoul National University moved from this area in 1975, Marronnier Park was created on what had been the university's campus. Surrounded by other colleges, the park became a cultural and arts center for students. There are outdoor performances and dozens of small movie theaters.

Gangnam -- This modern and affluent area, which means "south of the river," has wider streets than you'll find elsewhere in Seoul and a variety of high-end restaurants. Home of the COEX Mall, Gangnam sports newer stores and therefore attracts a younger crowd than the open markets found in other parts of the city.

Apgujeong -- Known as the "Beverly Hills of Seoul," this neighborhood (which is part of the Gangnam-gu district) has attracted those who have money and want to spend it on looking beautiful. The area offers world-class aestheticians and plastic surgeons, as well as upscale restaurants with prices to match. Luxury stores Gucci, Versace, and the like all have stores here.

Jamsil -- The Jamsil area is home to South Korea's largest indoor amusement park, Lotte World, and the Seoul Sports Complex. The area also houses the early tombs from the Baekje era (18 B.C.-A.D. 660). You'll find the country's largest wholesale market for agricultural and marine products, Garak-dong Shijang.

Fast Facts

American Express The main office in Seoul is in the Gwanghwamun Building, 15th Floor #64-8, 1-KA, Taepyeong-no, Jung-gu (tel. 02/399-2929). You may also need to contact authorizations (which operate 24 hr.) for emergency card replacement (tel. 02/1588-8300) or to contact the general service center (tel. 02/1588-8100).

Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs In Seoul, there are regular ATMs (automatic teller machines) and cash dispenser machines (CDs), which give out cash but don't accept deposits. The CDs in train stations, bus terminals, and department stores are the most foreigner-friendly. Some ATMs/CDs are available 24/7, but many operate from 8am to midnight on weekdays and nonholidays. If you have any trouble using an ATM/CD, call the Korea Travel Phone at tel. 1330 for assistance in English.

At banks in Seoul, you take a numbered ticket and wait until your number is called. If you want to exchange traveler's checks, make sure you have your passport. Banking hours in Seoul are from 9:30am to 4:30pm weekdays. Most bank employees speak some English.

Business Hours Government offices: 9am to 6pm weekdays (Nov-Feb, offices close at 5pm), 9am to 1pm Saturday. Major department stores: Daily from 10:30am to 7:30pm including Sunday. Smaller shops: Hours vary, but usually are about the same as those for department stores.

Currency Exchange You can exchange money at any currency exchange booth, high-end hotels, and most banks in the city. Many exchange desks are in banks such as Shinhan Bank (main office: 120 Taepyeongro 2-ga, Jung-gu), off exit #8 at City Hall Station when taking subway line 2) and Chohung Bank. Some places that exclusively exchange money are in Itaewon and downtown Seoul. There are also many places at Incheon International Airport, including the first (arrival) floor near the east and west greater halls, and on the third (departure) floor. Hard currency, such as U.S. dollars or British pounds, is easier to exchange than traveler's checks. Exchanging currency from Asian countries other than Japan is virtually impossible, so make sure to change your money back to dollars or pounds if you're arriving in South Korea from elsewhere in Asia. Tip: Hold onto your receipt, as it will help you secure a better deal when changing your money back before heading home.

Doctors & Dentists Most doctors and dentists speak some English, but for medical issues, it's always best to find one who is fairly fluent. You'll find English-speaking dentists at the College of Dentistry at Yonsei University, 134 Shinchon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul 120-752 (tel. 02/2228-8622); Kwanghwamun Ye Dental Clinic, 2nd Floor, Seoul Finance Center, 84 Taepyeong-no, Jung-gu (tel. 02/318-3601); Asan Medical Center, 388-1 Pungnap 2-dong, Songpa-gu (tel. 02/222-4384); or Seoul National University School of Dentistry, San 56-1, Sillim-dong, Gwanak-gu (tel. 02/760-3390). You can also visit dentists at international clinics, but they'll be more expensive. For English-speaking doctors, inquire at your hotel (higher-end places often have them on call).

Embassies & Consulates The following embassies are in Seoul: U.S., 32 Sejong-no, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-710 (tel. 02/397-4114; http://seoul.usembassy.gov); U.K., Taepyeong-no 40, 4 Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, 100-120 (tel. 02/3210-5500; http://ukinkorea.fco.gov.uk/en; take the subway to City Hall Station and take exit 3 or 12; open Mon-Fri 9:30am-noon for fee paying services, 2-4:30pm for general inquiries); Canadian, 16-1, Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, 100-662 (tel. 02/3455-6000; www.korea.gc.ca; take the subway line 1 to City Hall Station and take exit 1; open Mon-Fri 8-11:45am and 12:45-4:30pm); and Australian, 11th Floor, Kyobo Building, 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/2003-0100; http://www.southkorea.embassy.gov.au; open Mon-Fri 8:30am-5pm, though various services have different operating hours).

Emergencies Dial tel. 112 for the police. Dial tel. 119 for the fire department and medical emergencies, also tel. 1339 for medical emergencies (operators can understand basic English, but you should find someone who can speak Korean for more complicated situations). Hotel staff can also arrange for a doctor or ambulance.

Hospitals International clinics charge more than regular hospitals, but you'll be sure to find a doctor who speaks English. The following is a list of hospitals with international clinics: Samsung Medical Center, Ilwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 135-710 (tel. 02/3410-0200; http://english.samsunghospital.com); Sinchon Severance, 134 Sinchon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/361-6540); Asan Medical Center, 388-1 Pungnap 2-dong, Songpa-gu (tel. 02/2224-3114); Hannam-dong International Medical Center, Hannam Building, 5F, 737-37, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu (tel. 02/790-0857); Seoul Foreign Medical Center (tel. 02/796-1871); Yeouido Catholic Medical Center, Yeouido-dong 62, Yeongdeungpo-gu (tel. 02/789-1114); CHA General Hospital, 650-9 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, 135-081 (tel. 02/558-1112); Soonchunhyang Hospital, 657, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu (tel. 02/709-9881); and Seoul National University Hospital, San 56-1, Sillim-dong, Gwanak-gu (tel. 02/760-2890).

Internet Access Internet service is offered in public places such as airports, train stations, and bus terminals in Seoul. Internet cafes and PC bahngs (which means "rooms") are easy to find throughout the city. These rooms are filled with computer terminals where you can rent an Internet-connected PC. Many PC bahngs are open 24 hours and are located on higher floors of buildings, where rents are cheaper. To find one, just head for a commercial area and look up.

Although Seoul leads the world in Wi-Fi connectivity, the city's hot spots aren't very traveler-friendly. Since the majority of Wi-Fi hot spots are owned by previously government-controlled Korea Telecom (KT), it's best to get a prepaid Wi-Fi card, available at the KT Plaza at Incheon Airport (in the middle of the second floor; daily 7am-8pm). Prepaid cards come in W3,000 and W12,000 denominations and expire after a few months. The former is good for 60 minutes of access within a 24-hour period, while the latter allows unlimited access. Most hotels and love motels offer free high-speed Internet access.

Lost & Found The police lost and found number is tel. 02/2299-1282; the train station lost and found is tel. 02/755-7108; the airport lost and found is tel. 032/741-3114.

Maps & Books The Korea Tourism Organization (KTO), B1, KTO Building (T2 Tower), 40, Cheongyecheonno, Jung-gu, Seoul 100-180 (tel. 02/729-9497, ext. 499; http://english.tour2korea.com; daily 9am-8pm), publishes a variety of free brochures and maps, as well as providing transportation reservations and other traveler's assistance. They have tourist information booths at most major tourist areas throughout the city, including Namdaemun, Dongdaemun, Insadong, Myeongdong, and Itaewon.

The best selection of English-language books in Seoul can be found at the Bandi & Luni's bookstores or at one of the Kyobo Mungo bookstores. Unfortunately, there are no maps in English that show the streets of Seoul, and the ones available for purchase aren't very detailed. Your best bet is to pick up a map from one of the KTO locations.

Pharmacies Simple Western remedies are most likely to be found in the lobbies of international five-star hotels. There are no 24-hour pharmacies in the city, but you can generally find one or two pharmacies in any given neighborhood. Most display a large green cross symbol, but all of them have the Korean word for medicine on their windows.

Police Dial tel. 112 for the police. There are also police stations and booths throughout the city, clearly marked in English.

Post Office There are numerous post offices across the city, including the central one in Myeongdong. There is also one at the southeastern corner of the Gwanghwamun intersection and one in Itaewon, near the end of the main street. They're open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm (until 5pm Nov-Feb). There are also several Federal Express/Kinko's locations throughout the city, including one in the COEX Mall and one near Seoul Station.

Visitor Information For tourist information in English anywhere in the city, just dial tel. 1330 and someone will help you. If you have a problem with your hotel, or anything else for that matter, you can also call the Tourist Complaint Center (tel. 02/735-0101).

Weather For daily weather forecasts, check www.weather.com, or tune your TV to KBS at 8:30am, noon, or 9pm. Although the news will be in Korean, it's easy to figure out the weather from the icons.