Planning a trip to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Yosemite is a premium-priced destination, with lodging and meals priced accordingly high, especially during the summer season. In fall and spring, room rates drop precipitously. Sequoia & Kings Canyon are more moderately priced. There are ATMs in most of the developed areas in all of the parks.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in US$

Admission into the parks for 7 days 20.00

Double room in Yosemite, moderate 150.00-200.00

Double room in Yosemite, expensive 500.00

Cabin in Yosemite 100.00-200.00

Double room in Sequoia & Kings Canyon, moderate 200.00-250.00

Double room in Sequoia & Kings Canyon, expensive 150.00-200.00

Cabin in Sequoia & Kings Canyon 60.00-200.00

Campsite in either park 5.00-20.00

Dinner main course 10.00-30.00

1 gallon of premium gas 4.00

Visitor Information

In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, start your search at the National Park Service website at www.nps.gov/seki, which provides the most up-to-date information on the park, lodging, hikes, regulations, and the best times to visit. Much of the same information, plus road conditions, is available by phone (tel. 559/565-3341). Lodging information is available from DNC Parks & Resorts at Sequoia, P.O. Box 89, Sequoia National Park, CA 93262 (tel. 866/807-3598 or 801/559-4948; www.visitsequoia.com), and Sequoia-Kings Canyon Park Services Company, P.O. Box 907, Kings Canyon National Park, CA 93633 (tel. 866/522-6966 or 559/335-5500; www.sequoia-kingscanyon.com). You can get a variety of books and maps from the Sequoia Natural History Association, 47050 Generals Hwy. #10, Three Rivers, CA 93271 (tel. 559/565-3759; www.sequoiahistory.org). For information on the gateway cities, contact the Visalia Convention & Visitors Bureau, P.O. Box 2734, Visalia, CA 93279 (tel. 559/334-0141; www.visitvisalia.org), and the Sequoia Foothills Chamber of Commerce, 42268 Sierra Dr., Three Rivers, CA 93271 (tel. 877/530-3300 or 559/561-3300; www.threerivers.com).

Access/Entry Points

You can access the Big Stump Entrance (Kings Canyon National Park) via CA 180, and the Ash Mountain Entrance (Sequoia National Park) via CA 198, both from the west. Continuing east on CA 180 also brings you to an entrance near Cedar Grove Village in the canyon itself, which is open only in summer. See the "Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks" map and the "Highway Access to the Parks" map to orient yourself. To access the Mineral King area of Sequoia National Park, take the steep, twisting Mineral King Road (closed in winter) off CA 198, just a few miles outside the Ash Mountain Entrance.

Visitor Centers & Information

The parks have three major visitor centers open year-round, some seasonal facilities, and a museum. Make one of these facilities your first stop so you can buy books and maps and discuss your plans with park rangers. Call tel. 559/565-3341 or visit www.nps.gov/seki for information.

In Sequoia National Park, the largest visitor center is Foothills Visitor Center (tel. 559/565-3135), just inside the Ash Mountain Entrance on CA 198. Exhibits here focus on the Sierra Foothills, a biologically diverse ecosystem.

About 15 miles farther on CA 198 is the Giant Forest Museum (tel. 559/565-4480), housed in a historic building and offering extensive exhibits on giant sequoias.

Lodgepole Visitor Center (tel. 559/565-4436) includes exhibits on geology, wildlife, air quality, and park history. It's located 4 1/2 miles north of Giant Forest Village. The center is closed weekdays in winter, but it may be open on weekends.

In Kings Canyon National Park, the Kings Canyon Visitor Center, in Grant Grove (tel. 559/565-4307), includes exhibits on logging and the role of fire in the forests.

Open in summer only are Kings Canyon's small Cedar Grove Visitor Center (tel. 559/565-3793) and Sequoia's Mineral King Ranger Station (tel. 559/565-3768), where you can get backcountry permits and information.

Fees

It costs $20 per motor vehicle ($10 per individual on foot, bike, or motorcycle) to enter the park for up to 7 days. Camping fees range from $12 to $20 a night in the park. The Sequoia & Kings Canyon yearly pass, which allows unlimited entry into the park but does not cover camping fees, sells for $30.

Regulations

In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, there is a 14-day camping limit from June 14 to September 14, with a maximum of 30 camping days per year. Check campsite bulletin boards for additional regulations. Some campgrounds close in winter. Pets are allowed in campgrounds, but they must be on a leash and are not allowed on any trails.

The most important warning in Sequoia & Kings Canyon, which cannot be repeated too often, is that this is bear country, and proper food storage is required for the safety and health of both visitors and the resident black bears. In addition, rattlesnakes are common, so be careful where you put your feet and hands. In the Foothills area, check your clothes frequently for ticks; poison oak is another hazard.

The roads in the park are particularly steep and winding. Those in RVs will find it easiest to come by way of CA 180 from Fresno.

Special Permits & Passes

American parks and monuments are some of the biggest travel bargains in the world. If you plan to visit a number of national parks and monuments within a year, buy an America the Beautiful -- National Parks and Federal Interagency Annual Pass for $80 (good for 365 days from the date of purchase at nearly all federal preserves). Anyone age 62 or older can get an Interagency Senior Pass for a one-time fee of $10, and people who are blind or who have permanent disabilities can obtain an Interagency Access Pass, which costs nothing. All passes are available at any park entrance point or visitor center. While the Interagency Senior and Interagency Access passes must be purchased in person (to verify age or disability), Interagency Annual Passes are also available online at http://store.usgs.gov/pass.

You'll need a backcountry permit to camp overnight in the wilderness sections of these parks. Reserving a permit costs $5, plus $5 per person in Yosemite and $15 per group in Sequoia & Kings Canyon; it's a good idea to reserve one in advance during the high season. For permits in Yosemite, call tel. 209/372-0740 or stop by any Wilderness Permit Station. In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, call tel. 559/565-3766. Information is also available online at www.nps.gov/yose for Yosemite or www.nps.gov/seki for Sequoia & Kings Canyon.

Elsewhere in the parks, the usual permits and regulations apply. All anglers 16 and over must have valid California fishing licenses.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips

Sequoia Field Institute, in Three Rivers (tel. 559/565-3759; www.sequoiahistory.org), offers a number of field seminars in and around Sequoia & Kings Canyon. The programs typically run from 1 to 4 days, with fees ranging from around $70 for the 1-day seminars to $100 and up for the multiday programs. Topics vary but are likely to include subjects such as mountain wildflowers, black bears, photography, and, of course, giant sequoias. Some seminars have minimum age requirements, and some are physically demanding.

Getting There

By Plane

Fresno Yosemite International Airport (tel. 559/621-4500) is the nearest major airport, located 53 miles from the Big Stump Entrance of Kings Canyon. See the section on Yosemite, above, to find out which airlines service Fresno.

Visalia Municipal Airport (tel. 559/713-4201; www.flyvisalia.com), 36 miles from the Ash Mountain Entrance, is served by Great Lakes Airlines (tel. 800/554-5111), with daily flights to Los Angeles and Las Vegas.

By Car

There are two entrances to the parks. CA 198 east, via Visalia and the town of Three Rivers, leads to the Ash Mountain Entrance in Sequoia National Park, while CA 180 east, via Fresno, leads straight to the Big Stump Entrance near Grant Grove in Kings Canyon National Park. Both entrances are approximately 4 hours from Los Angeles and 5 hours from San Francisco. To check on statewide road conditions, call tel. 800/427-7623 in California (tel. 916/445-7623 outside of the state) or visit www.dot.ca.gov. For rental-car information, see the section on Yosemite, above.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222) serves Visalia and Fresno. In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, the Sequoia Shuttle (tel. 877/287-4453; www.sequoiashuttle.com) connects Visalia with the Giant Forest area of the park; it runs in summer for $15 round-trip per person.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) serves Fresno and Merced on its San Joaquin route and connects Visalia with the Hanford station via bus service.

When to Go

Like Yosemite, a variety of attractions stay open at these parks all year, but Cedar Grove is closed from mid-November to mid-April and Mineral King is closed from November 1 until Memorial Day weekend. Summertime sees a lively population of adventure seekers. Note that the hiking-trail passes in the high country may be snowbound until July.

Climate

The climate at both Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon varies considerably, depending on the region of the park. A good rule of thumb is to remember that the higher you go, the cooler it gets. So pack a parka on any trip that climbs above the valley floor or ventures into the backcountry.

In summer, Fahrenheit temperatures at lower elevations (such as Yosemite Valley) can climb into the 90s (30s Celsius) and higher, and plummet into the 50s (10s Celsius) at night. Afternoon temperatures average in the 60s and 70s (10s-20s Celsius) in spring and fall, and again, evenings are usually cool. Afternoon showers are fairly common fall through spring. Winter days average in the 40s and 50s (5-10s Celsius), and it seldom drops below 0°F (-18°C), although much of the land above 5,500 feet is buried beneath several feet of snow.

The high country gets up to 20 feet of snow half the year, so visitors should be experienced in winter travel. November through March, it is wise to expect snow and be prepared. Remember, particularly wet winters lead to incredibly stunning and powerful spring waterfalls, especially in Yosemite.

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Sequoia & Kings Canyon are generally gay-friendly. However, gay culture and nightlife are very limited in the gateway towns.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Anyone 62 or older can get an Interagency Senior Pass for a one-time fee of $10. The passes are available at any entrance point to Yosemite or Sequoia & Kings Canyon. The Interagency Senior Pass must be purchased in person in order to verify age.

Getting Around

By Car

The most popular way to get around the parks is by car. It follows that, in peak season, the roads can get swamped with traffic, hitting a zenith around 3 or 4pm in the afternoon. Trips including both Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon nearly demand a car to get between the two areas.

Marmot Invasion -- Always do a quick check under your hood before leaving a parking lot. Marmots, especially in the Mineral King area, love munching on car hoses and wiring, leaving a trail of disabled vehicles in their wake. A good number of them have stowed away in a car's engine compartment and hitched rides with unsuspecting drivers to other parts of the parks; several have ridden as far as the Los Angeles area!

A Vacation from Your Car

Since 2007, the National Park Service and the City of Visalia have operated a transportation system that makes it possible to explore Sequoia National Park without a car. From Visalia (or Three Rivers), the Sequoia Shuttle (tel. 877/287-4453; www.sequoiashuttle.com) will take you to the Giant Forest Museum for just $15 round-trip. From here, riders can connect with the free park shuttle to get to Wuksachi Lodge or one of the numerous trail heads en route. The former makes five runs between 6am and 6:30pm daily (reservations are accepted); the latter runs from 9am to 6pm daily. Both shuttles operate in the summer only, although there has been some talk of extending the season; call for current information.

By Bus

In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, the Sequoia Shuttle (tel. 877/287-4453; www.sequoiashuttle.com) connects Visalia with the Giant Forest area; it runs in summer for $15 per person round-trip. A free in-park shuttle takes visitors from Giant Forest to Lodgepole, Moro Rock, and other destinations.

Tips for Families

During the summer, Sequoia & Kings Canyon offer ranger-led walks aimed at families, as well as a campfire program at Lodgepole (check at visitor centers for the current schedule). In addition, the parks have a Junior Ranger program like Yosemite's, in which children get booklets and complete various activities to become Junior Rangers. Another child-friendly option is the Beetle Rock Education Center near the Giant Forest Museum, open on summer weekends only.

Health & Safety

Health

Health hazards range from mild headaches to run-ins with wild animals, but the latter happen less frequently than car accidents in the parks. To be on the safe side, you might want to keep a first-aid kit in your car or luggage, and have it handy when hiking. It should include, at the least, butterfly bandages, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, an antibiotic ointment, pain relievers for both children and adults, alcohol pads, a pocketknife with scissors, and tweezers.

The most common health hazard is the discomfort felt as visitors adjust to the parks' high elevations. Altitude sickness is a process that can take a day or more. Symptoms include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that, until acclimated, travelers should avoid heavy exertion, consume light meals, and drink lots of liquids, avoiding those with caffeine or alcohol.

Wildlife are to be treated with utmost respect in the parks, for your health's sake and theirs. Keep your distance -- at least 100 yards if possible -- from any wild animal.

Two waterborne hazards are Giardia and Campylobacter, with symptoms that wreak havoc on the human digestive system. Untreated water from the parks' lakes and streams should be boiled for at least 5 minutes before consumption, treated with iodine pills, or pumped through a fine-mesh water filter specifically designed to remove bacteria.

Safety

The following are some general safety tips for visitors to Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon:

• Although some of the bridges that cross rivers and streams look inviting, resist the temptation to use them as diving boards -- it's not only dangerous, but also illegal.

• Trails, especially ones over rock and granite, can be slick. Be especially careful along any rivers or creeks, such as Mist Trail in Yosemite, where wind and water can make for treacherous conditions.

• Always carry more than enough water, especially when going into higher elevations where the body requires more hydration.

• Under no circumstances should food be left in tents, cabins, or cars. There are storage lockers and bear-proof containers throughout the park -- use them.

• Under no circumstances should you feed a bear -- or any wild animal, for that matter.

• Always carry a map if you go hiking, even for short day hikes.

Another note on safety: Nothing will ruin a trip to the parks faster than sore or wet feet. Take some time planning your travel wardrobe. Bring comfortable walking shoes that are broken in, even if you plan to keep walking to a minimum. If you want to do some serious hiking, get sturdy boots that support your ankles and wick away water. Early in the season, trails may be wet or muddy; late in the fall, you can get snowed on. The more popular trails are sometimes also used by horses, which can make stream crossings a mucky mess.

Wear clothing in layers, and bring a small backpack so that you can take those layers off and on as the temperature, altitude, and your physical exertion change. Cotton is a no-no in the backcountry; synthetic fabrics are recommended because they dry much faster. Gloves or mittens are useful before the park heats up, or in the evening when it cools down again, even in summer.

The atmosphere is thin at higher altitudes, so protect your skin. Bring a strong sunblock, a hat with a brim, and sunglasses. Insect repellent, water bottles, and a first-aid kit are also recommended.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial tel. 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. (A fee may apply.) For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

The parks have several cell towers in developed areas. Cell service is widely available on the floor of Yosemite Valley and parts of Tuolumne Meadows; in Sequoia & Kings Canyon, it is available in the villages but largely unavailable on the roads and in wilderness areas. Cell service is available in all of the gateway cities, but the signal can be weak.

Internet & Wi-Fi

In Yosemite, Internet access is available at Degnan's Cafe on fee-based terminals. Wi-Fi is available at Yosemite Lodge for a fee, and to guests of the Ahwahnee and Curry Village. In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, Wi-Fi is available at Wuksachi Lodge and in Grant Grove Village. Internet access is widely available in all of the gateways.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon.

December

Trek to the Tree. This annual tradition, on the second Sunday in December at 2:30pm, is the main event at Kings Canyon. The Christmas ceremony takes place at the General Grant Tree and includes a solemn and moving tribute to Americans who have given their lives in service to their country. Former parks superintendent Col. John White said it best: "We are gathered here around a tree that is worthy of representing the spirit of America on Christmas Day. That spirit is best expressed in the plain things of life, the love of the family circle, the simple life of the out-of-doors. The tree is a pillar that is a testimony that things of the spirit transcend those of the flesh." The event is organized by the Sanger District Chamber of Commerce (tel. 559/875-4575; www.sanger.org).

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area code in and around Sequoia & Kings Canyon is 559.

Business Hours -- Stores are typically open from 8 or 9am until 7 or 8pm. Banks are generally open from 8 or 9am until 5 or 6pm.

Doctors -- In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, the closest medical facilities are in the gateway towns of Fresno, Visalia, and Three Rivers.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages in the U.S. is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated. Beer, wine, and liquor are widely available at businesses inside and outside of the parks and bars stay open as late as 2am.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212), or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information, go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and the like). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Police -- Call tel. 911. National Park Service rangers serve as police in the parks, as do county officials.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in all public places in the parks and bars and restaurants in the gateway towns. Many establishments offer an outdoor smoking area.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. Taxes total around 7% to 11% in the parks and the gateways.

Time -- As with all of California, the parks are on Pacific Standard Time (PST). When it's 9am in Yosemite (PST), it's noon in New York City (EST) and 5pm in London (GMT). The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time. For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% to 20% of the fare, tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage), and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. There are public restrooms at many pulloffs on the road in the parks, as well as at all visitor centers and many trail heads.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

These parks are incredibly beautiful and a joy to experience, and it is our responsibility as park visitors to keep them that way. Don't feed the animals. Don't litter. Don't take anything home that you didn't buy or bring with you. Share trails and walkways, and stay on them. If this sounds like something you learned in grade school, it is, but sometimes people need a gentle reminder that 50 million years of work deserves respect.

It's relatively easy to be a good outdoor citizen -- it's mostly common sense. Pack out all trash, stay on established trails, be careful not to pollute water, and do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. Some hikers go further, carrying a small trash bag to pick up litter. As the park service likes to remind us, protecting our national parks is everyone's responsibility.

Nonetheless, heavy summer auto traffic and the annual impact of millions of human beings have raised questions about the sustainability of these national parks. But a visit to Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon can still be a relatively green vacation. In Yosemite, concessionaire DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite (tel. 801/559-4884; www.yosemitepark.com) has implemented numerous environmental initiatives, including a recycling program, non-native plant-removal initiatives, and biodiesel-powered vehicles. Campgrounds have recycling bins near the entrances.

Perhaps the best way to think about sustainability is by connecting with the parks' wild soul via hikes on the trails and overnights in the campgrounds. One of the best ways to lessen one's impact is to go off the grid on an overnight backpacking trip. Backpacking is a refreshing counterpoint to modern life that will give perspective on the issues of sustainability and personal energy dependence. See Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org) for more on the backpacker's ethic to leave any campsite in the same condition -- or better -- than when you found it.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate or other proof of U.S. citizenship. For information on obtaining a passport, see the following:

Australian citizens should contact the Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian citizens should contact the Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Irish citizens should contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand citizens should contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St.reet, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. citizens should visit the nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq.uare, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

U.S. citizens should check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas but will need to show passports and proof of residence. Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas."

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Disabled Travelers -- People visit these parks to witness their beauty, and that can be done in a host of different ways -- you don't have to hike 5 miles or climb to the top of a waterfall. Some of the most rewarding moments come from quiet, still observation.

Be sure to inquire about the National Park Service's free Interagency Access Pass, available to the blind and those with permanent disabilities.

In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, the visitor centers in the Foothills, Lodgepole, and Grant Grove are wheelchair accessible. Paved trails lead to the General Sherman Tree and General Grant Tree. In Giant Forest, there are a few paved trails (including Big Trees Trail). There are modified picnic tables at Hospital Rock and Big Stump. Special requests should be directed to tel. 559/565-3134.

Wheelchair Getaways (tel. 800/642-2042 or 859/873-4973; www.wheelchair-getaways.com) rents specialized vans with wheelchair lifts and other features for those with disabilities, with outlets in Los Angeles and Sacramento.