Designed to evoke the aura of a Roman basilica, with pillars and corridors flanking a main hallway, Capo is the well-executed venture of the Enzo Carbone, the chef behind Shanghai's Italian restaurants Issimo and Matto. The centerpiece of this space are a pair of ovens — one for the meat and the other for pizzas — and the details of this dining experience are well done, down to the side dishes — potatoes roasted to a crisp, tender beets, glazed baby carrots — and the bread starters which are accompanied by a scrumptious roasted garlic bulb and salt flakes. The burrata-and-duck-prosciutto appetizer melts in your mouth, and the homemade pastas are hearty and reliable. The crudo bar serves oysters and other shellfish, but of course the main reason to come to Capo is for the steak. The restaurant sources from a ranch in Australia, and the menu lets you know whether your cow was grain- or grass-fed and for how many days alongside a marbling score. The steaks leave the apple-fired oven with the right amount of char, and are rolled out on wooden chopping blocks and carved table-side. A number of private dining rooms are available for functions, including a private room that seats 10 and has a one-way window into the kitchen. Capo is a great addition to the fine dining options in Shanghai, although one door empties out into the adjoining nightclub Muse. So don't sit near that exit if you don't want techno-music crashing your serene, Last Supper-like meal every time the door cracks open; instead try for a table near the ovens, which are a sight to behold.