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Mamma Mia, Fei Hua Chu Shui, nr. Kangpu Lu (tel. 0888/544-5777 ; www.mammamia.cn) has plenty of outside tables at which to enjoy a wide range of Italian and Chinese dishes with knowledgeable staff on hand from both countries to assist in your selection. The fledgling bakery is making some headway in cheesecakes and gateaux. On the opposite side of the main stream is Le Petit Paris which, despite the blaring live music in the early evenings, has a very relaxing coffee shop. Look out for the enormous St. Bernard Niu Niu, who despite his massive bulk is a real softy and loves having his tummy tickled. Further up towards K2 look for Snowflower Cafe (Fei Hua Jian Sui Jie; tel. 15987930348). The owner (Snowflower) is a recent arrival to Shuhe from Tiger Leaping Gorge, where ticket prices, breakneck growth, and endless scams have driven away large numbers of overseas tourists. She is now looking to make a new start in a fresh location. This is a particularly good choice for breakfast but also has a wide range of Naxi dishes too. Up at Dragon Pool, check out the cake shop that does coffees for just ¥9, possibly the best deal in town.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.