Restaurants in Siena

While a drink or meal on the Campo can be an expensive and less-than-satisfying experience, a pleasant exception is friendly Liberamente, Piazza del Campo 7 (www.liberamenteosteria.it; tel. 0577/274733), where drinks are well-priced and usually come with generous nibbles. Siena’s favorite fast-food stop, Te Ke Voi? (tel. 0577/40139)—translates as Whaddaya Want?—is a pleasant, bustling room on Vicolo San Pietro, one of the narrow, sloping alleyways leading into the Campo; pasta, pizza, and burgers are dispensed from a self-service counter, along with wine and beer. For a quick meal, step into La Prosciutteria on the corner of Via Magialotti and Via Pantaneto (www.laprosciutteria.com; tel. 0577/42026), where you can quite literally pig out on a platter of Tuscan hams or a porchetta sandwich, served on tables out front or in a medieval cellar.

The Enoteca Italiana (www.enoteca-italiana.it; tel. 0577/228843; Mon noon–8pm; Tues–Sat noon–1am) in the 16th-century Fortezza Medicea di Santa Barbara is the only state-sponsored wine bar in Italy, in vaults that were built for Cosimo de’ Medici in 1560. You can sample a choice selection of Italian wines by the glass and accompany your choices with small plates of meats and cheeses.

Every Italian city has a favorite gelateria, and Siena’s is Kopakabana, at Via de’ Rossi 52–54 (www.gelateriakopakabana.it; tel. 0577/284124; mid-Feb to mid-Nov noon–8pm, later in warm weather), with flavors that include panpepato, based on the peppery Sienese cake.

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