Getting Fortified in the Citadel -- Palinca -- homemade plum, apple, and pear brandy -- is a fine Transylvanian tradition. In the heart of Sighisoara, you'll soon find your way to the homey little cellar of Teo Coroian, the local palinca distiller, at Str. Scolii 14 (tel. 0265/77-1677), where you can sample the powerful distillations and learn about the process from the man himself. Teo has hundreds of potent vintages for you to take home, and he's enlisted the help of various artisans to create bottles in an astounding range of shapes and sizes; combined with their spirited contents, they make good gifts. Teo also has comfortable en suite guest room in his home; these have modern en suite showers, and the rate (45€/$57) gets you breakfast and a help-yourself bar fridge filled with mineral water, beer, and -- of course -- plenty of homemade plum, pear, and apple brandy; also included are coffee and snacks, and the comfortable vibe of a small home.

Of the hotel restaurants, Casa Wagner (daily 8am-11pm) is the best, with a lovely wine cellar as well as a sheltered courtyard terrace round the back. If you've left Bran Castle disappointed, you may be interested in dining at Casa Vlad Dracul, the only restaurant in the country with any authentic link to the legend. History claims that Vlad Tepis was born in this house in 1431. The medieval decor and candlelit tavern atmosphere do little to render the place "spooky," but the menu does, however, offer an unforgiving vampire bent: "Dracula House medallions," for example, are slithers of pork on bread, covered with a slop of garlic, mushroom, and tomato ketchup, that popular stand-in for blood.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.