Side Trip to Atienza

In the land of castles, they don’t come more emblematic than the one in the small town of Atienza, a 30-minute drive northwest from Sigüenza. The squat 12th-century tower stands at one end of a huge slab of rock, which lies across the hilltop like a slumbering lion. At first, it’s hard to tell what is man-made and what is natural. As you get closer, you can see the remains of the walls that once surrounded the rock citadel. There isn’t a great deal left to see inside, but if you climb to the top for 360-degree views across the plains of Castilla you’ll believe you are a medieval lookout, scanning the horizon for the next invading army.

The narrow streets of the town at the foot of the hill are good for a wander, with some attractive medieval features and Romanesque churches.

For lunch, it’s got to be wood-fired Castilian roasts and stews. Try Atienza XXI, Carretera de Berlanga (tel. 62-760-58-24), for a heartily good value menu del día set lunch at 14€.

On the way back to Sigüenza, stop to take a look at the disused salt mines at Salinas de Imón about 16km (10 miles) east of Atienza. The mines were originally built by the Romans, and the tumbledown buildings you see date from the 18th century. Incredibly, they were active until 1996.