Planning a trip to Singapore

Tips for Families

Because of their focus on business travelers, hotels in Singapore are not especially geared toward children. You can get extra beds in hotel rooms (this can cost S$15-S$50), and most hotels will arrange a babysitter for you on request, though most ask for at least 24 hours notice. While almost all hotels have pools to keep the kiddies cool and happy, none have lifeguards on duty, and only one hotel, Shangri-La's Rasa Sentosa Resort, has activity programs specifically for children.

Children have their own special rates of admission for just about every attraction and museum. The cutoff age for children is usually 12 years of age, but if your kids are older, be sure to ask if the attraction has a student rate for teens. If the kids get antsy during the cultural aspects of your trip, the best places to take them are the Singapore Zoo and Night Safari, the Singapore Science Centre, Underwater World on Sentosa, and Escape Theme Park and Wild Wild Wet. I can almost guarantee that your teen(s) (and you) will have a great time at any of these attractions.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

Cellphones in Singapore operate on two mobile phone networks, GSM900 and GSM1800. GSM, or Global System for Mobile Communications, is a seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout the world. Call your wireless operator and ask for international roaming to be activated on your account, but expect to pay premium charges for all calls.

There are three mobile service providers in Singapore: SingTel (www.singtel.com), M1 (www.m1.com.sg), and StarHub (www.starhub.com). To save money on calls, you can purchase a prepaid Subscriber Identity Module, or SIM card, which will assign you a local number while in Singapore. Before you do this, be sure that your mobile handset is able to accept an alien SIM card, as many phones are locked by providers. If your cellphone is locked, you can always find someone who will unlock it for a few bucks on the sly at either Sim Lim Square or Lucky Plaza shopping malls. Cellphones, both new and used, are reasonably priced here. Consider buying a new handset before paying exorbitant rental fees to an international rental firm.

Tip:  Singaporeans call their cellphones "handphones," and the local term for text messaging is "SMS."

Telephones

Hotels, with the exception of backpacker hostels, all have in-room telephones with International Direct Dialing (IDD) service. This is the most convenient way to make international calls but is also the most expensive, as the hotel will always add its own surcharge to your telephone bill.

Public telephones can be found in booths on the street or back near the toilets in shopping malls, public buildings, or hotel lobbies. Local calls cost S10¢ for 3 minutes at coin- and card-operated phones. International calls can be made only from public phones designated specifically for this purpose. International public phones will accept either a stored-value phone card or a credit card. Phone cards for local and international calls can be purchased at Singapore Post branches, 7-Eleven convenience stores, or moneychangers -- make sure you specify local or international phone card when you make your purchase.

To call Singapore from the United States, dial 011 (the international access code), then 65 (Singapore's country code), and then the eight-digit number. The whole number you'd dial would be 011-65-XXXX-XXXX.

To make international calls from Singapore, first dial 001 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial tel. 001-1-202/588-7800.

To call Malaysia from Singapore, it is not necessary to use IDD service, as there is a trunk cable between Singapore and peninsular Malaysia. To place a call, dial 02 to access the trunk cable, then the area code with the zero prefix, followed by the seven- or eight-digit local number. For example, to call the Malaysia Tourist Centre in Kuala Lumpur, dial tel. 02-03-2164-3929. For calls to Malaysian Borneo, you must still use IDD.

For directory assistance within Singapore, dial tel. 100. Dial tel. 104 for assistance with numbers in other countries.

For operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 104 if you're trying to make an international call and tel. 100 if you want to call a number in Singapore.

For toll-free numbers, be aware that numbers beginning with 1800 within Singapore are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Singapore is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Almost all major hotels in Singapore supply high-speed broadband Internet access in-room, usually at extra cost. Some newer and more expensive hotels will have Wi-Fi (wireless Internet connections) in room, while others will support Wi-Fi throughout certain public spaces.

In 2007, the Infocomm Development Authority initiated the Wireless@SG program, where surfers can enjoy free seamless wireless broadband access with speeds of up to 512kbps in most public areas. To connect to the Wireless@SG wireless broadband network, a user just needs a Wi-Fi-enabled device, such as a laptop computer or a PDA, a Web browser, and a registered Wireless@SG account. The scheme is open to tourists and business travelers; register at www.infocomm123.sg/wireless_at_sg. This site also lists hotspots across the island.

In addition, several cafes and restaurants, such as McDonald's and Starbucks, offer Wi-Fi access to customers. To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The conservative Singaporean government doesn't recognize or support alternative lifestyles; however, gay and lesbian culture is alive and well here. What you'll find is that older gays and lesbians are more conservative and, therefore, less open to discussion, while the younger generations have very few qualms about describing the local scene and their personal experiences in Singapore.

There are tons of websites on the Internet for the LGBT community in Singapore. Start at www.utopia-asia.com, an extremely comprehensive insider collection of current events, meeting places, travel tips, topical Web discussions, and links to resources.

Regions in Brief

On a world map, Singapore is nothing more than a speck nestled in the heart of Southeast Asia, at the tip of the Malaysian peninsula. In the north, it's linked to Malaysia by two causeways over the Straits of Johor, which are its only physical connection to any other body of land. The country is made up of 1 main island, Singapore, and around 60 smaller ones, some of which -- like Sentosa, Pulau Ubin, Kusu, and St. John's Island -- are popular retreats. The main island is shaped like a flat, horizontal diamond, measuring in at just over 42km (26 miles) from east to west and almost 23km (14 miles) north to south. With a total land area of only 693 sq. km (270 sq. miles), Singapore is shockingly tiny.

Singapore's geographical position, sitting approximately 137km (85 miles) north of the Equator, means that its climate features uniform temperatures, plentiful rainfall, and high humidity.

Singapore is a city-state, which basically means the city is the country. The urban center starts at the Singapore River at the southern point of the island. Within the urban center are neighborhoods that are handy for visitors to become familiar with: the Historic District, Chinatown, Orchard Road, Kampong Glam, and Little India.

Beyond the central urban area, you'll find older suburban neighborhoods such as Katong, Geylang, or Holland Village, neighborhoods that feature prewar homes with charming architectural details. Travel farther and you'll find New Towns, Singapore's answer to suburbia.

The City: Urban Singapore

The urban center of Singapore spans quite far from edge to edge, so walking from one end to the other -- say, from Kampong Glam to Chinatown -- will be too much for a relaxed walk. But within each neighborhood, the best way to explore is by foot, wandering along picturesque streets, in and out of shops and museums.

The Singapore River & Marina Bay -- The main focal point of the city is the Singapore River, which is located at the southern point of the island. It was along the banks of this river that Sir Stamford Raffles landed and built his settlement for the East India Trading Company. In 1822, Raffles developed a Town Plan which allocated neighborhoods to each of the races who'd come to settle. The lines drawn then remain today, shaping the major ethnic enclaves held within the city limits.

The Singapore River flows into Marina Bay, a large freshwater reservoir that is fast becoming the heart of the city, surrounded by the Marina Bay Sands integrated resort, the Esplanade-Theatres on the Bay, the Shenton Way financial district skyline, plus newly erected luxury condominium towers and the soon-to-be-completed Marina Bay Financial Centre.

Chinatown & Tanjong Pagar -- On the south bank of the Singapore River, old go-downs, or warehouses, line the waterside. Behind these, offices and residences sprang up for the Chinese community of merchants and coolie laborers who worked the river and sea trade; this area is still known as Chinatown today.

Neighboring Chinatown is Tanjong Pagar, a small district where wealthy Chinese and Eurasians built plantations and manors. With the development of the steamship, Keppel Harbour was built here to receive the larger vessels and the neighborhood developed into a commercial and residential area filled with workers who supported the industry.

In the early days, both Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar were a hive of activity. Row houses lined the streets with shops on the bottom floor and homes on the second and third floors. Chinese coolie laborers commonly lived 16 to a room, and the area flourished with gambling casinos, clubs, and opium dens where they could spend their spare time and money. Indians also thronged to the area to work on the docks, a small reminder that although races had their own areas, they were never exclusive communities.

As recently as the 1970s, the shops here housed Chinese craftsmen and artists. On the streets, hawkers peddled food and other merchandise. Calligraphers set up shop on sidewalks to write letters for a fee. Housewives would bustle, running their daily errands. Overhead, laundry hung from bamboo poles.

Today both of these districts are gentrified by comparison. New Towns have siphoned residents off to the suburbs, and though the old shophouses have been preserved, they're now tenanted by law offices and architectural, public relations, and advertising firms.

Historic District -- The north bank of the river was originally reserved for colonial administrative buildings and is today commonly referred to as the Historic District. The center point was the Padang, the field on which the Europeans would play sports and hold outdoor ceremonies. Around the field, the Parliament Building, Supreme Court, City Hall, and other municipal buildings sprang up in grand style. Government Hill, the present-day Fort Canning Hill, was home of the governors. The Esplanade along the waterfront was a center for European social activities and music gatherings. These days, the Historic District is still the center of most of the government's operations.

Orchard Road -- To the northwest of the Historic District, in the area along Orchard and Tanglin roads, a residential area was created for Europeans and Eurasians. Homes and plantations were eventually replaced by apartment buildings and shops, and in the early 1970s, luxury hotels ushered tourism into the area in full force. In the 1980s, huge shopping malls were erected along the sides of Orchard Road, turning the Orchard-scape into the shopping hub it continues to be. The Tanglin area is where you'll find most of the foreign embassies in Singapore.

Little India -- The natural landscape of Little India made it an ideal location for an Indian settlement. Indians were the original cattle hands and traders in Singapore, and this area's natural grasses and springs provided their cattle with food and water while bamboo groves supplied necessary lumber to build pens. Later, with the establishment of brick kilns, Indian construction laborers flocked to the area to find work. Today many elements of Indian culture persist, although Indians make up a small percentage of the current population. Shops, restaurants, and temples still serve the community, and on Sundays Little India is a wonderful mob scene, when all the workers have their day off and come to the streets here to socialize and relax.

Kampong Glam -- Kampong Glam, neighboring Little India, was given to Sultan Hussein and his family as part of his agreement to turn Singapore over to Raffles. Here he built his Istana (palace) and the Sultan Mosque, and the area subsequently filled with Malay and Arab Muslims who imported a distinct Islamic flavor to the neighborhood. The area is still a focal point of Muslim society in Singapore, thanks to Sultan Mosque, and the Istana has become an exhibit celebrating Malay culture. Arab Street is a regular draw for both tourists and locals who come to find deals on fabrics and local and regional crafts.

Suburban Singapore

With rapid urbanization in the 20th century, plantations and farms turned into suburban residential areas, many with their own ethnic roots.

Katong -- To the east of the city is Katong, a residential district inhabited primarily by Peranakan (Straits Chinese) and Eurasian families. Its streets were, and still are, lined with Peranakan-style terrace houses, a residential variation of the shophouse found in commercial districts. The Peranakans and Eurasians were tolerant groups, a result of interracial marriages and multicultural family life, who created a close-knit community that's carried over to the present day. Main streets are still lined with Peranakan restaurants, as well as many Catholic churches and schools that served the Eurasians.

Geylang -- Just beyond Katong, Geyland was and still is primarily a Malay district. Joo Chiat and Geylang roads were once lined with antiques shops and restaurants where halal foods, in accordance with Islamic laws, were served. Today a lot of the shophouses are being renovated, but it's still a good area to find housewares, fabrics, and modern furniture shops. At night, parts of Geylang are notorious for partially regulated prostitution.

Changi Village -- Changi Village is at the far eastern tip of the island. It was built as the residential section of a British military post. Today the village is quiet, with a large hawker center (with some nice seafood) and a public beach from which you can see Singapore's northern islands, Malaysia, and Indonesia. It's also where you pick up ferries to Pulau Ubin.

Tiong Bahru -- To the west of the city is an old neighborhood, Tiong Bahru. Its original inhabitants were Chinese from the Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar district, and the neighborhood remains largely Chinese today. The first government housing projects were built here before World War II, and a stroll along some streets here reveal lovely old art-deco buildings.

The New Towns -- In the 1960s, to deal with the growing Singapore population, the government created a public housing scheme in suburban areas. New Towns consist of blocks of high-rise public apartments around which shops, markets, schools, and clinics settled to support the residents. Villages, farms, and orchards were leveled; swamps were drained; and streams were paved into concrete channels to make way for towns such as Bedok, Tampines, Pasir Ris, Toa Payoh, Bishan, Ang Mo Kio, Yishun, Woodlands, and Clementi. The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system was originally built to connect the towns to the city.

Since 1960, almost one million government-subsidized apartments have been built, allowing over 80% of Singapore's population to own their own homes. However, the apartments have become extremely expensive, and many complain that the New Towns are singularly characterless, with high-rises looming overhead and compartmentalized living creating an urban anonymity among the many inhabitants.

Kampong Life

When the stress of modern society gets them down, many Singaporeans look back with longing to the days when life was simple, before the government housing schemes shifted everyone out of their kampongs.

Kampongs, Malay for "villages" (and spelled kampung in Malaysia), were, once upon a time, home to most of Singapore's population. Chinese, Malays, and Indians lived side by side in small clusters of houses that were built from wood and attap thatch and raised on stilts. Built along the shores of the island and close to jungles, the houses were nestled against backdrops of idyllic greenery surrounded by banana and coconut groves and marshes. Homes had land for chicken coops and kitchen gardens, and backyards in which children could play. The kampongs had central wells, provision shops, and sometimes temples and mosques. Despite their poverty, the kampong villages represented community.

The 1950s and 1960s were the heyday of kampong life. Later the houses were improved with corrugated metal, concrete, and linoleum, all of which rusted and rotted over time, making the kampongs look more like slums than the homey villages they once were. Inside, modernization brought government-mandated running water, plumbing, and even electrical appliances like TVs, refrigerators, and telephones. Still, all in all, life was hardly opulent. Today this entire way of life is just a memory. Every last kampong has been razed, the inhabitants relocated by the government to public housing estates. Many former kampong inhabitants have had a difficult time adjusting to life in concrete high-rises with no front porch or backyard and neighbors who are too busy to remember their names. Despite the truth that kampong life reflected poverty and struggle, its memory remains a link to older days that, however irrelevant to the modern world, still warm the hearts of many Singaporeans.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Singapore's country code is 65. Tiny Singapore has no regional area codes.

Business Hours -- Shopping centers are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm and stay open until later on some public holidays. Banks are open from 9:30am to 4pm Monday through Friday and from 9am to 12:30pm on Saturday. Restaurants open at lunchtime from around 11am to 2:30pm, and for dinner they reopen at around 6pm and take the last order sometime around 10pm. Government offices are open from 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday and from 9am to 1pm on Saturday. Post offices conduct business from 8:30am to 5pm on weekdays and from 8:30am to 1pm on Saturday. Some keep extended hours until 8pm.

Doctors -- All hotels have an English-speaking general practitioner on call.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18; proof of age is rarely requested.

Electricity -- Standard electrical current is 220 volts AC (50 cycles). Local electrical outlets are made for plugs with three square prongs. Consult your concierge to see if your hotel has converters and plug adapters in-house for you to use. If you are using sensitive equipment, do not trust cheap voltage transformers. Nowadays, a lot of electrical equipment -- including laptop computers -- comes with built-in converters, so you can follow the manufacturer's directions for changing them over.

Embassies & Consulates -- Contacts for major embassies in Singapore are as follows: Australian High Commission, 25 Napier Rd. (tel. 65/6836-4100; www.singapore.embassy.gov.au); British High Commission, 100 Tanglin Road (tel. 65/6424-4200; http://ukinsingapore.fco.gov.uk); Canadian High Commission, One George St. #11-01 (tel. 65/6854-5900; www.singapore.gc.ca); and U.S. Embassy, 27 Napier Rd. (tel. 65/6476-9100; http://singapore.usembassy.gov).

Emergencies -- For police, dial tel. 999. For medical or fire emergencies, call tel. 995.

Hospitals -- If you require hospitalization, the centrally located Mount Elizabeth Hospital is near Orchard Road at 3 Mount Elizabeth (tel. 65/6737-2666); for accidents and emergencies, call (tel. 65/6731-2218). You can also try Singapore General Hospital, Outram Road (tel. 65/6222-3322); for accidents and emergencies, call (tel. 65/6321-4311).

Language -- Singapore's four official languages are Malay, Chinese (Mandarin dialect), Tamil, and English. Malay is the national language, while English is the language for government operations, law, and major financial transactions. Most Singaporeans are at least bilingual, with many speaking one or more dialects of Chinese, plus English and some Malay.

Legal Aid -- If you find yourself in trouble in Singapore, the first thing you should do is consult your home embassy or high commission. However, for serious offenses, do not expect much help. Singapore shows little leniency to foreigners who break local laws, and officials from your home country are oftentimes powerless to assist.

Mail -- Most hotels have mail services at the front counter. Singapore Post (www.singpost.com.sg) is very reliable and has centrally located offices that include: #B2-62 ION Orchard, 3 Orchard Turn (in Singapore, 4-digit hotline tel. 65/1605); Chinatown Point, 133 New Bridge Rd. #0241/42/43/44 (tel. 65/6538-7899); Change Alley, 16 Collyer Quay #0202 Hitachi Tower (tel. 65/6538-6899); and Suntec City Mall #03-01/03, 3 Temasek Blvd. (tel. 65/6332-0289). Plus, there are four branches at Changi International Airport.

The going rate for international airmail letters to North America, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand is S$1.10 for 20 grams, plus S35¢ for each additional 10 grams. Postcards and aerograms to all destinations are S50¢.

Your hotel will accept mail sent for you at its address.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Local English newspapers available are the International Herald Tribune, The Business Times, The Straits Times, Today, and USA Today International. The Asian Wall Street Journal has limited distribution in Singapore. Most of the major hotels carry it, though, so ask around and you can find one. I-S Magazine is a good resource for nightlife happenings. The STB Visitors' Centres carry a few free publications for travelers, including Where Singapore, This Week Singapore, and Singapore Business Visitor. Major bookstores and magazine shops sell a wide variety of international magazines.

Packing -- In the tropics, it's best to wear loose-fitting clothes that are made of natural materials. Expensive restaurants require "dress casual" wear, meaning collared shirts and long trousers for men, and slacks and blouses, skirts, or dresses for women. I recommend packing a light jacket or sweater, as many shopping malls, theaters, and restaurants are air-conditioned and are sometimes cold. For shoes, slip-ons are the easiest when touring temples and mosques, which require you to take them off at the door. An umbrella is necessary year-round. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- For emergencies, call tel. 999. If you need to call the police headquarters, dial tel. 1800/255-0000.

Smoking -- It's against the law to smoke in public buses, elevators, theaters, cinemas, shopping centers, government offices, and taxi queues. In addition, all restaurants, hawker centers, bars, and nightclubs are smoke-free, with the exception of designated smoking areas. Establishments with outdoor seating can allocate 20% of this space for a smoking area. Nightclubs can have smoking rooms inside their premises, but this room cannot exceed 10% of the club's total floor space. It is not legal to bring any quantity of duty-free cigarettes into Singapore.

Taxes -- Many hotels and restaurants will advertise rates followed by "++." The first + is the goods and services tax (GST), which is levied at 7% of the purchase. The second + is a 10% gratuity charge. The GST Tourist Refund Scheme lets you recover the GST for purchases over S$100 in value.

Time -- Singapore Standard Time is 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). International time differences will change during daylight saving or summer time. Basic time differences are: New York -13, Los Angeles -16, Montreal -13, Vancouver -16, London -8, Brisbane +3, Darwin +1, Melbourne +2, Sydney +3, and Auckland +4. For the current time in Singapore, call tel. 1711.

Tipping -- While tipping is not exactly discouraged at hotels, at bars, and in taxis, it is not the norm here. A gratuity is automatically added into guest checks, but servers rarely see any of it. While tipping is not expected, I typically leave the small bills behind in restaurants and bars, I tell the cabbie to "keep the change," and I always give bellhops at least S$2 per bag in all hotels. It is always appreciated.

Toilets -- Clean and safe public toilets can be found in all shopping malls, hotels, and public buildings. Smaller restaurants may not be up on their cleanliness, and beware of the "squatty potty," the Asian-style squat toilet, which you see in the more "local" places. Carry plenty of tissues with you, as they often run out. Very rarely will you still find a pay toilet around. If you do, it's usually S$.20 per entry, S$.30 if you'd like tissue.

Visitor Information -- The long arm of the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) reaches many overseas audiences through its branch offices, which will gladly provide brochures and booklets to help you plan your trip, and through its detailed website, at www.yoursingapore.com.

After you arrive in Singapore, several visitor centers are staffed to assist, beginning with information desks at the Arrival Halls in Terminals 1, 2, and 3 at Changi Airport, open daily from 6am to 2am. Other visitor centers are located in the city as follows: at the junction of Orchard and Cairnhill roads (cater-cornered from the Meritus Mandarin Hotel), open daily from 9:30am to 10:30pm; in Little India at the InnCrowd Backpackers' Hostel, at 73 Dunlop St., open daily from 10am to 10pm; and at Suntec Galleria, open from 10am to 6pm daily.

STB operates a 24/7 information hotline that is toll-free within Singapore, at tel. 800/736-2000. STB has up-to-date information, but if you need accurate information about travel timetables, I recommend you call airlines, ferry services, bus companies, or train stations directly.

Water -- Tap water in Singapore passes World Health Organization standards and is potable.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

january/February

New Year's Day. The first day of the calendar year is celebrated in Singapore by all races and religions. New Year's Eve in Singapore is always cause for parties similar to those in the West. Look for special events at restaurants and nightclubs, but don't expect to find a taxi when you need one. January 1.

Lunar New Year or Chinese New Year. If you want to catch the biggest event in the Chinese calendar and in Singapore, come during Chinese New Year for parades and festivals. Late January/February.

Thaipusam Festival. If you're lucky enough to be in Singapore during this event, you're in for a bizarre cultural treat. This annual festival is celebrated by Hindus to give thanks to Lord Subramaniam, the child god who represents virtue, youth, beauty, and valor. During Thaipusam, male Hindus who have made prayers to Subramaniam for special wishes must carry kavadis in gratitude. These huge steel racks are decorated with flowers and fruits and are held onto the men's bodies by skewers and hooks that pierce the skin. Carrying the kavadis, the devotees parade from Sri Perumal Temple in Little India to the Sri Thandayuthapani Temple, where family members remove the heavy structures. For an additional spectacle, they will pierce their tongues and cheeks with skewers and hang fruits from hooks in their flesh. The devotees have all undergone strict diet and prayer before the festival, and it is reported that, afterward, no scars remain. Late January/early February.

March/April

Good Friday. Churches and cathedrals hold special services on this Christian holiday to remember the crucifixion of Christ. St. Joseph's on Victoria Street holds an annual candlelight procession. Late March/early April.

Qing Ming (All Souls' Day). Qing Ming, or All Souls' Day, was originally a celebration of spring. On this day, Chinese families have picnics at ancestral graves, cleaning the graves and pulling weeds, lighting red candles, burning joss sticks and "hell money" (paper money that, when burned, ascends to the afterworld to be used by ancestors), and bringing rice, wine, and flowers for the deceased in a show of ancestral piety. Early April.

May

Vesak Day. Buddhist shrines and temples are adorned with banners, lights, and flowers; and worshipers gather to observe the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Buddha, which all occurred on this day. Good places to watch the festivities are the Temple of a Thousand Lights in Little India or Thian Hock Keng Temple in Chinatown. On this day, Buddhists will refrain from eating meat, donate food to the poor, and set animals (especially birds) free to show kindness and generosity. It falls on the full moon of the fifth month of the lunar calendar -- which means somewhere around mid-May.

Singapore Arts Festival. During this month-long festival, premier local, regional, and international music and dance performances are staged in a number of venues. The cultural performances, some modern and some traditional, are always excellent and are highly recommended. Check out www.singaporeartsfest.com. Late May to mid-June.

June

Singapore World Invitational Dragon Boat Races. The annual dragon boat races are held to remember the fate of Qu Yuan, a patriot and poet during the Warring States period in Chinese history (475-221 B.C.) who threw himself into a river to end his suffering at watching his state fall into ruin under the hands of corrupt leadership. The people searched for him in boats shaped like dragons, beating gongs and throwing rice dumplings into the water to distract the River Dragon. Today the dragon boat races are an international event, with rowing teams from up to 20 countries coming together to compete. Drums are still beaten, and rice dumplings are still a traditional favorite. Contact the STB for information. Late June/early July.

The Great Singapore Sale. This is a month-long promotion to increase retail sales, and most shops will advertise huge savings for the entire month. It's well publicized with red banners all over Orchard Road. June into July.

July

The Singapore Food Festival. Local chefs compete for honors in this month-long exhibition of international culinary delights. It's a good time to be eating in Singapore, as restaurants feature the brand-new creations they have entered in the events. Contact the STB.. July.

Maulidin Nabi. Muslims celebrate the birth of the Prophet Mohammed on this day. Sultan Mosque is the center of the action for Muslims who come to chant in praise. July 17.

August

National Day. On August 9, 1965, Singapore separated from the Federation of Malaysia, becoming an independent republic. Patriotism is celebrated with a big parade held on a floating platform in Marina Bay with live performances, music, and fireworks. Tickets are available only through lottery, so few short-term visitors ever get the chance to see it live. August 9.

Festival of the Hungry Ghosts. The Chinese believe, that once a year, the gates of Purgatory are opened and all the souls inside are let loose to wander among the living. To appease these restless spirits and prevent evil from falling upon themselves, the Chinese burn joss, hell money, and paper replicas of luxury items, the latter two meant to appear in the afterworld for greedy ghosts to use. The main event is on the 15th day of the 7th month of the lunar calendar and is celebrated with huge feasts. At markets, altars offer mountains of goodies for hungry ghosts as well. Chinese operas are performed throughout the month to entertain the spirits and make them more docile. Nowadays, with Chinese Opera becoming a dying art, a lot of the street performances are karaoke acts. Mid-August/mid-September.

September

The Mooncake and Lantern Festivals. Traditionally called the Mid-Autumn Festival, it was celebrated to give thanks for a plentiful harvest. The origins date from the Sung Dynasty (A.D. 970-1279), when Chinese officials would exchange round mirrors as gifts to represent the moon and symbolize good health and success. Today the holiday is celebrated by eating moon cakes, which are sort of like little round hockey pucks filled with lotus seed paste or red bean paste and a salted duck egg yolk. Children light colorful plastic or paper lanterns shaped like fish, birds, butterflies, and, more recently, cartoon characters. There's an annual lantern display and competition out at the Chinese Garden, with acrobatic performances, lion dances, and night bazaars. Late September/early October.

Birthday of the Monkey God. In the Chinese temples, ceremonies are performed by mediums who pierce their faces and tongues and write prayers with the blood. In the temple courtyards, you can see Chinese operas and puppet shows. The Tan Si Chong Su Temple on Magazine Road, upriver from Boat Quay, is a good bet for seeing the ceremonies. Contact the STB for information. Late September/early October.

October/November

Hari Raya Puasa. Hari Raya Puasa marks the end of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting during daylight hours. During Ramadan, food stalls line up around the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam, ready to sell tasty Malay goodies at sundown. Hari Raya Puasa is a 3-day celebration (though only the first day is a public holiday) of thanksgiving dinners, and non-Muslims are often invited to these feasts, as the holiday symbolizes an openness of heart and mind and a renewed sense of community. During the course of the 3 evenings, Geylang is decorated with lights and banners and the whole area is open for a giant pasar malam, or night market. In 2011 and 2012, the holiday falls in August.

Pilgrimage to Kusu Island. During this month-long period, plan your trips to Kusu Island wisely, as the place becomes a mob scene. Throughout the month (the lunar month, that is), Chinese travel to this small island to visit the temple there and pray for another year of health and wealth. October/November.

Festival of the Nine-Emperor God. During this celebration, held over the first 9 days of the ninth month of the lunar calendar (to the Chinese, the double nines are particularly auspicious), temples are packed with worshipers, hawkers sell religious items outside, and Chinese operas are performed for the Nine-Emperor God, a composite of nine former emperors who control the prosperity and health of worshipers. At the height of the festival, priests write prayers with their own blood. On the ninth day, the festival closes as the Nine-Emperor God's spirit, contained in an urn, is sent to sea on a small decorated boat. Contact the STB for information. Late October.

Navarathiri Festival. During this 9-day festival, Hindus make offerings to the wives of Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. The center point in the evenings is Sri Thandayuthapani Temple, where dances and musical performances are staged. Performances begin around 7:30pm. Contact the STB for information. Late October/early November.

Deepavali. Hindus and Sikhs celebrate Deepavali (also called Diwali) as the first day of their calendar. The new year is ushered in with new clothing, social feasts, and gatherings. It's a beautiful holiday, with Hindu temples aglow from the tiny earthen candles placed in crevices in the sides of walls. Hindus believe that the souls of the deceased come to earth during this time, and the candles help to light their way back to heaven. During the celebration, Serangoon Road in Little India is a mesmerizing display of colored lights and decorative arches. The dates quoted above are estimates only, as Hindu officials had not released dates at the time of writing.

Thimithi Festival. Thimithi begins at the Sri Perumal Temple in Little India and makes its way in parade fashion to the Sri Mariamman Temple in Chinatown. Outside the temple, a bed of hot coals is prepared and a priest will lead the way, walking first over the coals, to be followed one at a time by devotees. Crowds gather to watch the spectacle, which begins around 5pm. Make sure you're early so you can find a good spot. Contact the STB for information. Late October/early November.

Christmas Light-Up. Orchard Road is brilliant in bright and colorful streams of Christmas lights and garlands. All of the hotels and shopping malls participate, dressed in the usual Christmas regalia of nativity scenes and Santa Clauses.

December

Hari Raya Haji. One of the five pillars of Islam involves making a pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime, and Hari Raya Haji (Eid al-Adha) is celebrated the day after pilgrims make this annual voyage to fulfill their spiritual promise. Muslims who have made the journey adopt the title of Haji (for men) and Hajjah (for women). After morning prayers, sheep and goats are sacrificed and their meat is distributed to poor families. In 2011 and 2012, this holiday falls in late October/early November.

Christmas Day. On this day, Christian Singaporeans celebrate the birth of Christ. December 25.

Getting Around

The many inexpensive mass transit options make getting around Singapore pretty easy. Of course, taxis always simplify the ground transportation dilemma. They're also very affordable and, by and large, drivers are helpful and honest, if not downright personable. The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) subway service has lines that cover the main areas of the city and out to the farther parts of the island. Buses present more of a challenge because there are so many routes snaking all over the island, but they're a great way to see the country while getting where you want to go.

Of course, if you're just strolling around the urban limits, many of the sights within the various neighborhoods are within walking distance, but walking between the different neighborhoods can be a hike, especially in the heat. The STB Visitors' Centres carry a variety of free city maps and walking tour maps of individual neighborhoods to help you find your way around.

Stored-value EZ-Link fare cards can be used on both the subway and buses, and can be purchased at TransitLink offices in MRT stations. These save you the bother of trying to dig up exact change for bus meters. The card does carry a S$5 initial cost and a S$3 deposit -- for a S$15 initial investment, you'll get S$7 worth of travel credit.

A better deal is the Singapore Tourist Pass, a card that allows unlimited travel on MRT trains and public buses for 1, 2, or 3 days. The cost is S$8 per day, with a refundable S$10 deposit. Passes can be purchased at the following MRT stations: Changi Airport, Orchard, Chinatown, City Hall, Raffles Place, Harbourfront, and Bugis, and at the STB Visitors' Centres at Changi Airport and Orchard Road.

We recommend purchasing the latest edition of the TransitLink Guide for about S$2 at the TransitLink office where you buy your card. This tiny book details both MRT and bus routes with maps of each MRT station surroundings, and it indicates connections between buses and MRT stations. It also tells you fares for each trip.

By Taxi

Taxis are by far the most convenient way to get around Singapore. Fares are cheap, cars are clean, and drivers speak English. Taxi stands can be found at every hotel, shopping mall, and public building; otherwise, you can flag one down from the side of the road. Most destinations in the main parts of the island can be reached fairly inexpensively, while trips to the outlying attractions can cost from S$10 to S$15 one-way. That said, I caution against becoming too dependent on them. During the morning and evening rush, you can wait a maddeningly long time in the line, and sometimes if you're at a destination outside the main city area, they're few and far between. If it's raining, you might as well stay put; you'll never get a cab.

If you do find yourself stranded, there are a few things you can do. If you're at an attraction or a restaurant, you can ask the cashier or help desk to call a taxi company and book a cab for you. If you're near a phone, you can make your own booking: CityCab and Comfort (tel. 65/6552-1111), TIBS (tel. 65/6555-8888), and SMRT (tel. 65/6555-8888. During peak times, I have the best luck with SMRT. There's an extra charge for the booking, anywhere between S$2.50 and S$3.50.

Taxis charge the metered fare, which is from S$2.80 to $3 for the first kilometer (6/10 mile) and S20¢ for each additional 300 to 400m (984-1,312 ft.) or 45 seconds of waiting. Extra fares are levied on top of the metered fare, depending on where you're going and when you go. At times, figuring your fare seems more like a riddle. Here's a summary:

For trips during peak hours, between the hours of 7 and 9:30am Monday to Friday, and 5 and 8pm Monday to Saturday, meters tack on an additional 35%. If you're traveling within the Central Business District (CBD) from 5pm till midnight Monday through Saturday, you also pay an additional S$3 surcharge. (To accurately outline the boundaries of the CBD, I'd need to fill a couple of encyclopedic volumes, so for this purpose, let's just say it's basically Orchard Rd., the Historic District, Chinatown, and Shenton Way.)

Additional charges rack up each time you travel through an Electronic Road Pricing (ERP) scheme underpass. On the Central Expressway (CTE), Pan-Island Expressway (PIE), and selected thoroughfares in the CBD, charges from S50¢ to S$3 are calculated by an electronic box on the driver's dashboard. The driver will add this amount to your fare.

And for special torture, here's some more charges: From midnight to 6am, add 50% to your fare. From 6pm on the eve of a public holiday to midnight the following day, you pay an additional S$1. From Changi Airport, add S$5 if you're traveling Friday, Saturday, or Sunday between 5pm and midnight. Other times, it's S$3. And for credit card payments (yes, some take plastic!), add 10%.

By Trolley

For sightseeing trips around town, your best bet is the SIA Hop-on bus. Plying between Suntec City, the Historic District, the Singapore River, Chinatown, Orchard Road and the Singapore Botanic Gardens, Little India, and Sentosa, the Hop-on comes every 30 minutes between the hours of 9am and 9pm daily. Unlimited rides for 1 day cost S$12 adults and S$6 children. If you flew Singapore Airlines to get here, you have to pay only S$6 adults and S$3 children if you flash your boarding pass. Buy your tickets from the bus driver when you board. For info, call SH Tours, tel. 65/6734-9923.

By Mass Rapid Transit (MRT)

The MRT is Singapore's subway system. It's cool, clean, safe, and reliable, providing service around the central parts of the city and extending into the suburbs around the island. There are stops along Orchard Road into the Historic District, to Chinatown and Little India -- chances are, there will be a stop close to your hotel.

Fares range from S70¢ to S$2, depending on which stations you travel between. System charts are prominently displayed in all MRT stations to help you find your appropriate fare, which you pay with an EZ-Link fare card. Single-fare cards can be purchased at vending machines inside MRT stations. See above for information on stored-fare cards for multiple trips. (One caution: A fare card cannot be used by two people for the same trip; each must have his own.)

MRT operating hours vary between lines and stops, with the earliest train beginning service daily at 5:15am and the last train ending at 12:47am. For more information, call the TransitLink Hot Line at tel. 1800/225-5663 (daily 24 hr.).

By Bus

Singapore's bus system comprises an extensive web of routes that reach virtually everywhere on the island. Use an EZ-Link stored-value card to pay for your trips and a TransitLink Guide to find your way around. All buses have a gray machine with a sensor pad located close to the driver. Tap your EZ-Link card when you board and alight, and the fare will be automatically deducted. It'll be anywhere between S80¢ and S$1.80. If you're paying cash, be sure to have exact change; place the coins in the red box by the driver and announce your fare to him. He'll issue a ticket, which will pop out of a slot on one of the TransitLink machines behind him. If you're not sure how much your fare should be, the driver can assist.

For more information, contact either of the two operating bus lines during standard business hours: Singapore Bus Service (SBS; tel. 800/287-2727) or the Trans-Island Bus Service (TIBS; tel. 800/482-5433).

By Rental Car

Visitors to Singapore rarely rent cars for sightseeing, because it's just not convenient. Local transportation is excellent and affordable, you don't have to adjust to local driving rules and habits, plus there's no need to worry about where to park. Still, if you must, contact Avis at tel. 1800/737-1668); they operate counters in all three Changi Airport terminals daily 7am to 11pm.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

To enter Singapore, you must have a passport valid for at least 6 months from your date of entry. To acquire a passport, contact one of the following Passport Offices:

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

There's no restriction on the amount of currency you can bring into Singapore. For those over 18 years of age who have arrived from countries other than Malaysia and have spent more than 48 hours outside Singapore, allowable duty-free concessions are 1 liter of spirits; 1 liter of wine; and 1 liter of either port, sherry, or beer, all of which must be intended for personal consumption only. There are no duty-free concessions on cigarettes or other tobacco items. If you exceed the duty-free limitations, you can bring your excess items in upon payment of goods and services tax (GST) and Customs duty.

Prohibited Items -- It is important to note that Singapore has some very unique prohibitions on the import of certain items. While pretty much every country in the world, including Singapore, prohibits travelers from bringing items like plutonium, explosives, and firearms through Customs -- the same goes with agricultural products such as live plants and animals, controlled substances, and poisons -- Singapore adds to the list any type of printed or recorded pornography; pirated movies, music, or software; and toy or decorative guns, knives, or swords. A detailed rundown of prohibited items can be found on the Net at the Ministry of Home Affairs home page: www.mha.gov.sg.

Singapore's Drug Policy -- With all of the publicity surrounding the issue, Singapore's strict drug policy shouldn't need recapitulation, but here it is: Importing, selling, or using illegal narcotics is absolutely forbidden. Punishments are severe, up to and including the death penalty (automatic for morphine quantities exceeding 30 grams, heroin exceeding 15 grams, cocaine 30 grams, marijuana 500 grams, hashish 200 grams, opium 1.2 kilograms, or methamphetamines 250 grams). If you're carrying smaller sums (anything above: morphine 3 grams, heroin 2 grams, cocaine 3 grams, marijuana 15 grams, hashish 10 grams, opium 100 grams, or methamphetamines 25 grams), you'll still be considered to have intent to traffic and may face the death penalty if you can't prove otherwise. If you're crazy enough to try to bring these things into the country and you are caught, no measure of appeal to your home consulate will grant you any special attention.

Visas

Leisure travelers from the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom are not required to obtain a visa prior to arrival. A Social Visit Pass (with combined social and business status) good for up to 30 days (up to 90 days for U.S. visitors) will be awarded upon entry for travelers arriving by plane, or for 14 days if your trip is by ship or overland from Malaysia or Indonesia. Children traveling with parents from countries that qualify for a Social Visit Pass upon arrival can obtain entry with their own passport (provided it's valid for at least 6 months). Infants can enter on their parents' passports. For details, check out the Immigration & Checkpoints Authority of Singapore website at www.ica.gov.sg.

Medical Requirements

Singapore does not require any vaccinations to enter the country, unless you've been traveling in Africa or South America within 6 days of arrival, in which case you'll need a certificate that shows you've been vaccinated against yellow fever.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Since Singapore is a very small nation that is almost entirely defined by its urban core, it has few natural resources to either exploit or defend and no indigenous cultures to speak of. However, travelers who are environmentally conscious may find Singapore interesting in surprising ways. The government is responsive to the call of environmentalists and has designed and implemented a number of innovative ways to solve the very real environmental and resource management issues that plague countless urban centers around the world.

Local legend has it that a prominent monk warned (then) Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew that, as Singapore develops, he must be careful to protect the forests. According to the monk, Singapore, whose name in Sanskrit means "Lion City," gets its power from the lions that once supposedly roamed here. To take away the trees will destroy the lions' habitat and force them to move elsewhere. It is a lesson in feng shui that Lee took to heart, as evidenced by the trees, shrubs, and flowering plants that have been incorporated into the urban design at almost every turn.

To learn about Singapore's unique approach to environmental sustainability, start at the Marina Barrage, 260 Marina Way (tel. 65/6514-5959; www.pub.gov.sg/marina), the massive hydrodam that is transforming Singapore's downtown city core into the world's largest urban reservoir. The dam can be toured, but equally interesting is the Sustainable Singapore Gallery located within the dam, a brilliant display that outlines the government's efforts toward environmental sustainability. The gallery is open Monday to Friday 9am to 9pm but is closed on Tuesdays. Admission is free and there is a free shuttle to the Barrage from Marina Bay MRT.

In addition to water resource and waste management, the Singapore government has initiated monetary incentives for land developers that incorporate green technology into the design and construction of all new buildings, and to those who renovate older buildings to similar standards. There are talks to make green buildings mandatory in the near future.

Outside the city center, Singapore also has a number of nature reserves. Of particular interest is Bukit Timah Nature Reserve -- Singapore is one of only two cities in the world with primary rainforest located within city limits -- and Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, a mangrove forest that protects an awesome number of migrating birds. The National Parks Board has guided tours by park specialists on selected weekends. Check out the schedule at www.nparks.gov.sg.

The Singapore Zoo has also been affected by global environmental concerns and has decided that, though it will support its current polar bear and Arctic exhibits, once these animals have lived their lives, they will not be replaced, and the zoo will focus on wildlife native to warmer climates.

Animal rights have a way to go when it comes to the rights of sharks. Shark's fin soup is still a delicacy and is a staple in every Chinese restaurant here. Be warned.

When to Go

A steady supply of business travelers keep occupancy rates high year-round in Singapore. However, some hotels report that business travel gets sluggish during the months of July and August, when they target the leisure market more aggressively. This is probably your best time to negotiate a favorable rate. Peak season for travel falls between December and June, with "super-peak" beginning in mid-December and lasting through the Chinese Lunar New Year, which falls in January or February, depending on the moon's cycle. During this season, Asian travel routes are booked solid and hotels are maxed out. Favorable deals are rare because much of Asia takes annual leave at this time.

Weather

Because Singapore is 137km (85 miles) north of the Equator, you can pretty much guarantee that it's hot. In terms of seasonal variations, you've got some months that are not as warm as others, but for the most part, they're all still hot.

What does vary greatly is rainfall. Singapore lies between two monsoon winds. The Northeast Monsoon arrives the beginning of November and stays until mid-March, when temperatures are slightly cooler, relatively speaking, than other times of the year. The heaviest rainfall occurs between November and January, with daily showers that sometimes last for long periods of time; at other times, it comes down in short, heavy gusts and goes quickly away. Wind speeds are rarely anything more than light. The Southwest Monsoon falls between June and September. Temperatures are much higher and, interestingly, it's during this time of year that Singapore gets the least rain (with the very least reported in July).

By and large, year-round temperatures remain uniform, with a daily average of 81°F (27°C), afternoon temperatures reaching as high as 87°F (31°C), and an average sunrise temperature as low as 75°F (24°C). Relative humidity often exceeds 90% at night and in the early morning. Even on a "dry" afternoon, don't expect it to drop much below 60%. (The daily average is 84% relative humidity.)

Holidays

There are 11 official public holidays (Note: The following dates, with regard to religious holidays, are estimates, as each date is subject to a different religious calendar. Dates provided here are for rough planning only. Please check with the STB prior to your trip to verify holidays that fall during your stay.): New Year's Day (Jan 1), Chinese New Year or Lunar New Year (Jan 23-24, 2012), Good Friday (Apr 6, 2012), Labour Day (May 1), Vesak Day (May 7, 2012), National Day (Aug 9), Hari Raya Puasa (also called Eid al-Fitr, Aug 30, 2011; Aug 20, 2012, observed), Deepavali (Oct 26, 2011; Nov 13, 2012), Hari Raya Haji (also called Eid al-Adha, Nov 6, 2011; Oct 26, 2012), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). On these days, expect government offices, banks, and some shops to be closed.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Compared to its Southeast Asian neighbors, Singapore is considered expensive; however, visitors from the West will find their money still goes quite far. The local currency unit is the Singapore dollar. It's commonly referred to as the "Sing dollar," and retail prices are often marked as S$ (a designation I've used throughout this guide). Notes are issued in denominations of S$2, S$5, S$10, S$50, S$100, S$500, and S$1,000. S$1 bills exist but are rare. Notes vary in size and color from denomination to denomination. Coins are issued in denominations of S1¢, S5¢, S10¢, S20¢, S50¢, and the fat, gold-colored S$1. Singapore has an interchangeability agreement with Brunei Darussalam, so don't be alarmed if you receive Brunei currency with your change, as it's legal tender.

It's not an absolute necessity to buy Singapore dollars before your trip, because you can find ATMs that accept cards from the Cirrus and Plus networks at the Arrival Halls of all Changi Terminals as you exit the baggage claim area. If you do need currency changed, each terminal has money-changing services that operate 'round-the-clock.

In town, it's best to exchange currency or traveler's checks at a local authorized moneychanger, found in most shopping malls throughout the city. They'll give you the best rate. You'll lose money with the high rates at banks, hotels, and shops.

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination -- in Singapore, you will never be far from a machine that accepts either of these cards. It's a good idea to check your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note:  Remember that banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to US$5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than US$2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Major credit cards are widely accepted at hotels, restaurants, and shops, and even at many attractions and in taxis. Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in Singapore (S$)

Taxi from the airport to downtown 25.00

Double room, moderate 250.00

Double room, inexpensive 150.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 20.00-30.00

Can of Tiger beer at 7-Eleven 4.00

Cup of coffee at Starbucks 5.30

Admission to the National Museum 10.00

Admission to most national parks Free

Health & Safety

Health

Singapore's healthcare system is exemplary, with many tourists coming each year to seek medical treatment. All hospitals have international accreditation. By and large, Singapore no longer has problems with most of the tropical world's nastiest scourges. Food is clean virtually everywhere, tap water is potable, restaurants and food vendors are regulated by the government, and many other airborne, bug-borne, and bite-borne what-have-yous have been eradicated.

Singapore doesn't require that you have any vaccinations to enter the country but recommends immunization against diphtheria, tetanus, hepatitis A and B, and typhoid for anyone traveling to Southeast Asia in general. If you're particularly worried, follow their advice; if not, don't worry about it.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Although you have no risk of contracting malaria in Singapore (the country's been declared malaria-free for decades by the World Health Organization), there is a similar deadly virus, dengue fever, that's carried by mosquitoes and for which there is no immunization. A problem in the Tropics around the world, dengue fever is controlled in Singapore with an aggressive campaign to prevent the responsible mosquitoes from breeding. Still, each year cases of infection are reported, almost all of them occurring in suburban neighborhoods and rural areas. Symptoms of dengue fever include sudden fever and tiny red, spotty rashes on the body. If you suspect you've contracted dengue, seek medical attention immediately. If left untreated, this disease can cause internal hemorrhaging and even death. Your best protection is to wear insect repellent that contains DEET, especially if you're heading out to the zoo, bird park, or any of the gardens or nature preserves, especially during the daytime.

A newer threat, chikunguniya, also a mosquito-borne virus, has also posed a danger here in recent years, but incidents have been rare. Symptoms are similar to those of dengue fever.

Dietary Red Flags -- The government rates restaurants, street vendors, and hawker centers on their standards of cleanliness and hygiene practices -- look for decals on display in windows or at stalls. (A is for excellent.) Regardless, the use of chili and spices in local food can cause Delhi-belly. If you suffer a bout of diarrhea, it could be from many causes: weakness from jet lag, adjustments to the climate, new foods, spices, or an increase in physical activity. Always carry Immodium or a comparable antidiarrheal, but most important, don't forget to drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. If symptoms include painful cramps, fever, or rash, seek medical attention immediately; otherwise, it'll probably just clear up by itself.

People who are sensitive to MSG, be warned: it's used often in cooked food. If you need to ask about it, locally it's called Ajinomoto, after its Japanese manufacturer.

Sun Exposure -- Singapore's climate guarantees heat and humidity year-round; you should remember to take precautions. Give yourself plenty of time to relax and regroup on arrival to adjust your body to the new climate (and to the new time, if there is a time difference for you). Also drink plenty of water. Avoid overexposure to the sun. The tropical sun will burn you like thin toast in no time at all. You may also feel more lethargic than usual. This is typical in the heat, so take things easy and you'll be fine. Be careful of the air-conditioning, though. It's nice and cooling, but if you're prone to catching a chill, or find yourself moving in and out of air-conditioned buildings a lot, you can wind up with a horrible summer cold.

Viral Infections -- Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome, or SARS, hit Singapore hard in 2003, killing 33 people in Singapore and effectively closing the region to tourism. However, Singapore had mobilized the entire country to take daily precautions against the spread of the disease in an effort that was highly lauded by the World Health Organization (WHO), and today casual travelers face no threats of contracting this disease in Singapore.

Cases of Asian bird flu, or Avian influenza, have been reported all over Asia Pacific, with countries culling over 100 million poultry to contain outbreaks. Avian influenza is an acute viral infection affecting birds and poultry. Cross-infection to humans is rare; however, it does happen among people who have come in contact with sick or dead birds. To protect the country, Singapore keeps a close watch on its poultry farms and has developed safe channels for the import of all poultry products to make sure infected meats and eggs don't cross its borders.

Safety

Singapore is an extremely safe place by any standard. There's very little violent crime, even late at night. If you stay out, there's little worry about making it home safely. There is virtually no political or social unrest. Women travelers are treated with respect. In recent years, some pickpocketing has been reported. Hotel safe-deposit boxes are the best way to secure valuables, and traveler's checks solve theft problems.

In February 2011, Singapore newspapers reported a scam in nightclubs that seems to be on the rise, where drunk foreign men have been accused of molestation after dancing with local female clubbers. Some men have given money on the spot to avoid trouble, while others have been taken to trial. The best way to avoid falling victim is to drink in moderation.

Insurance

Before you travel, it's a good idea to check with your airline, credit card issuers, and any medical plan you have in your home country to find out what kind of coverage you have for things like flight delays, loss of luggage, theft, accident, or illness while traveling. Additional travel insurance can be purchased on an annual basis or per trip through your insurance company.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit http://www.frommers.com/planning/.

Getting There

By Plane

Singapore's award-winning Changi International Airport (tel. 65/6542-4422; www.changiairport.com; airport code: SIN) is a major transportation hub for many of the world's largest passenger airlines, so flights from all corners of the globe are convenient.

Compared to other international airports, Changi is a dream come true, providing clean and very efficient facilities. Expect to find in-transit accommodations, restaurants, duty-free shops, moneychangers, ATMs, car-rental desks, accommodations assistance, and tourist information all marked in English with clear signs. There is even a spa, pool, and butterfly garden. Three terminals are connected by a Skytrain system, so it is easy to get around the airport.

In my experience, the best deals are offered through Asian carriers. Compare fares at Japan Airlines (www.jal.co.jp), Korean Air (www.koreanair.com), Cathay Pacific Airways (www.cathaypacific.com), Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com), and Thai Airways International (www.thaiair.com). Otherwise, I've listed information for a few major airlines below.

Singapore's national carrier, Singapore Airlines (tel. 65/6223-8888 in Singapore, tel. 800/742-3333 in the U.S. and Canada, tel. 0844/800-2380 in the U.K., tel. 131011 in Australia, or tel. 0800/808-909 in New Zealand; www.singaporeair.com), is arguably one of the finest airlines in the world, with reliable service that is second to none. It's the most luxurious way to fly to Singapore, but sometimes the most expensive as well. It connects major cities in North America, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand to Singapore with daily flights.

From North America, United Airlines (www.united.com) and Delta Airlines (www.delta.com) link all major destinations in the U.S. with Singapore. From the U.K. and Australia, British Airways (www.britishairways.com) and Qantas (www.qantas.com) collaborate to provide flights to Asia Pacific from major cities in the U.K. and Australia.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Most visitors to Singapore will land at Changi International Airport, which is located toward the far-eastern corner of the island. It takes around 30 minutes to reach the city by car from the airport. If you're driving, you'll traverse the wide Airport Boulevard to the Pan-Island Expressway (PIE) or the East Coast Parkway (ECP), past public housing estates and other residential neighborhoods in the eastern part of the island, over causeways, and into the city center.

A taxi trip to the city center will cost around S$22 to S$25, which is the metered fare plus an airport surcharge, usually S$3 to S$5, depending on the time of pickup. If you've got a lot of people and luggage, CityCab offers a six-seater maxicab to anywhere in the city for a flat rate of S$35. You can inquire at the taxi queue or call tel. 65/6535-3534).

There's an airport shuttle, a coach that traverses between the airport and all major hotels. Booking counters at all three terminals are open 24 hours daily. When you book your trip into town, you can also make an advance reservation for your departure. Pay S$9 for adults or S$6 for children at Terminal 1, tel. 65/6543-1985; Terminal 2, tel. 65/6546-1646; or Terminal 3, tel. 65/6241-3818; and the Budget Terminal, tel. 65/6546-7656.

The city is easily accessible by public transportation. The MRT, Singapore's subway system (www.smrt.com.sg), operates to the airport, linking you with the city and areas beyond. STB will tell you the trip takes 30 minutes, but really, give yourself at least an hour, because you'll need time to wait for the train to arrive, then you'll have to transfer trains at Tanah Merah station, and if you're arriving in Terminal 1, you'll need to hop on yet another train -- a shuttle between terminals. After you get to your station in town, you'll still have to find your way, with your luggage, to your hotel. Personally, I think it's a pain in the neck, but hey, it costs only about S$2.70 to town. Trains operate roughly from 6am to midnight daily.

A couple of buses run from the airport into the city as well. SBS bus no. 36 is the best, with an express route to the Historic District and along Orchard Road. Pick up the bus in the basement of any terminal. The trip will take over an hour, and you'll need to get exact change before you board. A trip to town will be roughly S$2.

For arrival and departure information, you can call Changi International Airport at tel. 65/6542-4422.

By Train

While most visitors to Singapore will arrive by air, some will come via train from Malaysia. The Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) operates a rail system that connects Singapore all the way up the Malay peninsula, with stops in Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and even connections to service in Thailand to Bangkok. Train passengers will stop for immigration at the checkpoint at Woodlands, just across the strait from Malaysia. In July 2011, the Singapore Railway Station on Keppel Road will be relocated to Woodlands, but at press time, no details were released. Woodlands is in the far north of the island, quite a way from the city center, so expect a taxi to be pricey.

For train information from Kuala Lumpur, call KL Sentral railway station at tel. 603/2267-1200. In Bangkok, call the Hua Lamphong Railway Station at tel. 622/223-7010.

By Bus

Buses from Malaysia will drop off passengers at any number of points around the city, depending on the bus operator -- there is no proper inbound bus station. For bus service from major Malaysian cities, refer to bus listings in each section. Operators will be able to tell you where you will be dropped off.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most hotels have accessible rooms, and some cab companies offer special van services. Almost all of the newer buildings are constructed with access ramps for wheelchairs, but older buildings are very problematic, especially the shophouses, with narrow sidewalks and many uneven steps. SingaporeMedicine, an agency developed by the Singapore Tourism Board and Singapore's Ministry of Health, publishes "The Medical Traveller's Guide to Disabled Access for Facilities in Singapore," which is published online at www1.singaporemedicine.com/doc/res/Medical Traveller's Guide to Disabled Access for Facilities in Singapore.pdf.

Escorted & Package Tours

Food Trips

The Raffles Culinary Academy at Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Rd. (tel. 65/6412-1256; www.raffles.com), has daily cooking classes taught by chefs from Raffles Hotel staff. Individual classes on Asian herbs and spices, kids' cuisine, Italian, Chinese, Indian, Japanese, and Thai, plus desserts and pastries, range from 2 to 4 hours and are suitable for professionals and hobbyists alike. Bookings can be made online.

Guided Tours

Because Singapore is compact and efficient and most people speak English, few travelers feel the need for a travel operator to hold their hand during their stay. Still, package tour operators can get you better deals on travel and hotel stays. One company I recommend is Absolute Asia (15 Watts St., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10013; tel. 800/736-8187; fax 212/627-4090; www.absoluteasia.com), with packages that give you plenty of free time to explore on your own and innovative itineraries that combine Singapore with one or more if its Southeast Asian neighbors. Asia Transpacific Journeys (2995 Center Green Court, Boulder, CO 80301; tel. 800/642-2742; fax 303/443-7078; www.southeastasia.com) is another great operator, specializing in customized tours with particular attention to cultural and ecological sensitivity.

Tour East (tel. 65/6735-1221) organizes typical half-day coach tours of the city every day (adults S$30, children S$15), and full-day coach excursions on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday to some of the main attractions around the island (adults S$73, children S$36), some with meals included. The Peranakan Trail (Tues-Sun) takes visitors out to Katong, a suburban neighborhood that is the focal point of Peranakan heritage (adults S$45, children S$22).

For something different, go for the DUCKTour (tel. 65/6338-6877; www.ducktours.com.sg), a combined coach and boat tour in an amphibious vehicle, a decommissioned military craft, that circles you around the Historic District for a tour of the harbor. The hour-long tour starts every hour, departing from the Suntec City Mall Galleria, with additional transfers from the DUCKTours office on Orchard Road (at the corner of Cairnhill Rd.). Reservations are highly recommended, and tours cost S$33 adults, S$17 children ages 3 to 12, and S$2 kids 2 and under. DUCKTours also operates the HiPPO Tour aboard an open-top double-decker bus, cruising Orchard Road, Little India, Kampong Glam, Chinatown, and the Historic District. Pick it up at the DUCKTours office on Orchard Road or at Suntec City, then get on and off at sights that interest you along the way. The day ticket costs S$33 adults, S$13 children 3 to 12, and S$2 for kids 2 and under. Call DUCKTours for information.

Medical Trips

Singapore's internationally accredited hospitals and specialist centers are staffed with medical professionals educated at some of the world's top schools, furnished with state-of-the-art diagnostic and procedural equipment, and administered with an efficiency that Singapore is famous for. International patients choose to receive medical care in Singapore for a number of reasons: because of insufficient medical facilities in their home countries, to cover gaps in medical insurance coverage, or for privacy for sensitive procedures and recovery. Singapore's international hospitals can provide health screening and cosmetic surgery, usually at a greater cost compared to competitor hospitals in Malaysia and Thailand, but many prefer the peace of mind that comes from Singapore's reputation as a first-world city. It has also nurtured a reputation for high-end surgical procedures and care in specialist areas like cardiology, neurology, obstetrics and gynecology, oncology, ophthalmology, orthopedics, and pediatrics. The Singapore government has teamed up with the top hospitals for www.singaporemedicine.com, a portal that answers every question for prospective patients. Hospitals have specialized departments that handle everything from travel arrangements, accommodations, specialists appointments, and even tours during your recovery -- they really handle everything soup to nuts.

Medical Spas -- Medical spas blur the line between cosmetic medicine for beauty and rejuvenation, and spa treatments for relaxations and well-being. Medical treatments for the face and body are combined with indulgent amenities and services of a luxury spa. The top medical spas in Singapore are: The MedSpa, 1 Orchard Blvd., #12-03/05, Camden Medical Centre (tel. 65/6887-3087; www.medspa.com.sg); and DRx Medispa, 3 Temasek Blvd., #03-52 Suntec City Mall (tel. 65/6836-1555), or 583 Orchard Rd., #11-01, Forum (tel. 65/6223-1555; www.drxmedispa.com).

River Tours & Cruises

Singapore River Cruises (tel. 65/6336-6111; www.rivercruise.com.sg) operates boats up and down the Singapore River and into the harbor from 9am to 11pm daily. A bumboat ride past Boat Quay and Clarke Quay costs adults S$15 and children S$8, and an extended ride that includes Robertson Quay costs adults S$20 and children S$10. You can also use the river cruise boats as a taxi, as it has pick-up points from the Merlion (Fullerton), Boat Quay, Clarke Quay, and Robertson Quay.

The Imperial Cheng Ho, operated by Watertours (tel. 65/6533-9811; www.watertours.com.sg), is a huge boat modeled after the sort of Chinese junk that Admiral Cheng Ho might have sailed when he explored this region in the 15th century. A 2 1/2-hour cruise takes you from Marina South Pier past the Singapore skyline, the mouth of the Singapore River, then out past Sentosa, with a stop on Kusu Island. I recommend the Morning Glory Cruise at 10:30am (adults S$27, children S$14). There's also a Dragon Cruise at 3pm (adults S$27, children S$14), High Tea Cruise at 3pm (adults S$32, children S$16), and a dinner cruise at 6:30pm (adults S$55, children S$29). Watertours can arrange hotel transfer with your booking.

Trishaw Tours

Look for independently operated bicycle rickshaws behind the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple on the corner of Sago and Terrenganu streets in Chinatown. Charges run about S$36 per person for an hour-and-a-half ride.

Walking Tours

Singapore Walks (tel. 65/6325-1631; www.singaporewalks.com) is a reputable outfit that organizes guided walking tours of the Historic District, Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam, and other neighborhoods Monday through Saturday, except for public holidays. Call them to find out the meeting time and place for the tour you want; for most walks, adults pay S$28, children tour for S$15. Their river walk, at S$28, includes a bumboat tour.

Tips for Senior Travelers

In Singapore, you'll find very few hotels that offer senior citizen discounts; however, every attraction with an entrance fee offers a special discounted rate, and some tour companies will quote you a better rate as well. Be warned that in Singapore you're considered a senior citizen at the age of 55 -- you either love it or hate it!

Upon request, the STB can also help plan your trip and can offer its own advice for senior travelers. Regarding this service, here's my advice: If you work out your itinerary with the help of STB, make sure you're firm about time constraints. Many of the tours and daily itineraries are rushed, with little time for a rest here and there. A common complaint is exhaustion by the end of just 1 day. In the heat, this is not only uncomfortable, but dangerous as well.