The owners of this restaurant describe it as the main focus of the hotel that contains it, occupying more of their attention than the hotel itself. Outfitted in a tasteful interpretation of a late-19th-century decor, it has welcomed diners that have included presidents, statesmen, diplomats, and actors, all of whom seem to appreciate the superb cuisine and graceful service. The menu changes frequently, but it's likely to include a sophisticated version of fish soup; black tagliolini with grilled octopus, squid ink, and fresh sweet basil; house-style codfish; and grilled filet of sea bass with a comfit of leeks. Meat items include a roasted spit that contains both venison and white veal, and a roasted magret of duck served with Rösti potatoes and wild berry sauce.