As you would expect of a town constantly visited by lawyers and businessmen, there are lots of excellent tavernas in and around Ermoupolis, but if you're only going to have one dinner here, head to Thalami (tel. 22810/85-331), in a 19th-century mansion with sea views and delicious food, especially seafood (great stuffed squid). Main courses run 8€ to 15€ and much more, of course, if you have the fresh fish. Boubas Ouzeri and Yacht Club of Siros are both known for ouzo and mezedes. In addition to the tavernas mentioned, try the consistently good Petrino Taverna (tel. 22810/84-427), around the corner from To Arhontariki. Up in Ano Siros, try one of three places with great views: Frangosiriani (tel. 22810/84-888), down the street from the Taverna Lilis, or the nearby Alithini (tel. 22810/88-253), which specializes in rooster in wine sauce and stifado, a hearty stew with onions and veal or rabbit. Out on the island on one of the best sand beaches, you'll eat some of the best food on the island at Allou Yualou (tel. 22810/71-196). Look for the giant fish tank -- and hope that the small fish don't know that many people at the nearby tables with pale pink tablecloths are eating their large relatives. In short, great fresh fish, inventive salads, and a dreamy seaside location. (The restaurant's name, a Greek expression, suggests daydreaming in a wonderful place.) True. Open from before Easter until, as the manager told me, "the weather is not so good," which many years means mid-October.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.