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One of the best ways to pass an evening in Sitges is to walk the waterfront esplanade, have a leisurely dinner, and then retire at about 11pm to one of the open-air cafes for a nightcap and some serious people-watching.

If you're straight, you may have to hunt to find a bar that isn't predominantly gay. There are so many gay bars, in fact, that a map is distributed pinpointing their locales. Nine of them are concentrated on Carrer Sant Bonaventura in the center of town, a 5-minute walk from the beach (near the Museu Romàntic).

Mediterráneo, Sant Bonaventura 6 (no phone), is the largest gay disco/bar. Located in a restored 1690s house just east of the Plaça d'Espanya, it sports a formal Iberian garden and sleek modern styling. Upstairs are pool tables and a covered terrace. On summer nights, the place is overflowing.

The sexiest bar in town is the aptly named Man Bar, Sant Bonaventura 19 (no phone). It's the raunchiest gay watering hole along the eastern coast of Spain, and has a hard industrial feel, with chains and metal bars. Its dark lighting creates a cruisy atmosphere. Patrons are encouraged to "play" in the rear dark room. Leather, rubber, and uniforms are the dress of choice, except on underwear nights when clients must wear suitable underwear or else go naked. The bar closes in winter but is open nightly the rest of the year from 10pm to 3:30am.

Other gay bars include Bourbon's, Sant Bonaventura 13 (tel. 93-894-33-47; www.bourbonsbar.com), with a predominantly youngish crowd. El Horno, Joan Tarrida 6 (tel. 93-894-09-09), with slight leather overtones that grow more prominent as the night progresses, opens earlier, at 5:30pm, and also features a darkroom.

Another of the town's most popular nightspots is Ricky's Disco, Sant Pau 25 (tel. 93-894-96-81), which charges a cover of 10€ to 12€. This place caters to an international mix of gay and straight visitors. It's set back from the beach on a narrow street noted for its inexpensive restaurants and folkloric color. Trailer, Angel Vidal 36 (tel. 93-894-04-01; www.trailerdisco.com), is the best place to end the night. Its foam parties are infamous along the coast. The 10€ cover includes a drink. It closes at 6am.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.