Located on the beach at the edge of Plaça Baluarte, Fragata is a contemporary jewel box of a restaurant: all glass, with taupe and nutmeg upholstery and table linens. Even the impressive wine cellar is a frosted glass cube. There’s a bit of an international air to parts of the menu—lollypop baby lamb chops, for example—but beautifully presented Catalan seafood carries the day, whether as a suquet (the Catalan answer to bouillabaisse), a tossed salad of salt cod and oranges on lettuce, or grilled baby squid in a sauce of their own ink. The mixed grill of fresh fish is always a good bet—except on Sunday, when the fishermen stay ashore.