Planning a trip to Slovakia
The Lay of the Land
Slovakia is a compact country, sandwiched between Austria and the Czech Republic to the west, Poland to the north, Ukraine to the east, and Hungary to the south. It borrows a little bit from each of its neighbors. Linguistically and culturally it's closest to the Czech Republic, with whom it shared a common state for more than 70 years. With the Poles, the Slovaks share a deep Catholicism, and here as in Poland, you'll see people lined up at the church door on Sunday morning. Hungary ruled over the Slovaks for 1,000 years until 1918 and the Hungarian influence is still evident, if difficult to pinpoint. The easiest-to-see example might be in the cooking. The Hungarians brought the peppers and paprika, and Slovak goulash has been the better for it ever since. The Austrian influence is also strong but hard to describe. Vienna, for Slovaks, remains the absolute pinnacle of class and manners, and every time a waiter nods or clicks his heels as he serves you your coffee or strudel he's echoing a notion of Viennese civility going back centuries.
The Regions in Brief
For a small country, Slovakia possesses a wealth of regional diversity, both cultural and geographic. The western third of the country includes the capital Bratislava and, except for a few hills running north of the city, is relatively flat. It takes in the Danube lowlands and much of the border region with Hungary. The mountainous central region, running from the Malá Fatra highlands east of Zilina to the country's highest peaks, the High Tatras, is considered quintessential Slovak territory. The far eastern third of the country defies easy description. While geographically it's mostly rolling hills, ethnically speaking it's diverse, including ancient communities of Poles, Hungarians, Ukrainians, and Germans. Here folkways and traditional wooden architecture dominate and religion is very important. A visit here is very much a trip back in time.
Entry Requirements
There are no special requirements for entering Slovakia. Passport holders from the U.S., Canada, and Australia can enter the country without a visa and stay for 90 days. Passport holders from E.U. member countries, including the U.K., do not need a visa. Slovakia is a member of the E.U.'s internal Schengen zone, meaning you will not usually have to carry a passport if you are arriving directly from another Schengen country (Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, and Poland) -- though keep your passport with you just to be sure. This does not apply to the Ukrainian border.
Money
Slovakia joined the E.U.'s euro zone on January 1, 2009, with the euro replacing the Slovak crown (Sk) as legal tender. The euro has bank notes of 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 euros, and coins of 1 and 2 euros, as well as smaller denominations of 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1-euro cent. At press time, 1 euro was equal to about $1.27 (but subject to considerable fluctuation).
While the euro is being phased in 2009, you may still see dual prices -- euros and Slovak crowns -- on some goods and services. Note that this is only to allow consumers to make price comparisons. Slovak crowns cannot be used to make purchases (so don't buy any on the black market). Banks will accept Slovak crowns for exchange until December 31, 2009. After that they are only good for the scrapbook.
Major credit cards are widely accepted at hotels, restaurants, and shops. Traveler's checks are less useful and must usually be cashed at banks. ATMs are ubiquitous in both big and small towns. They remain the best way to get cash on the spot.
A Note on Prices -- While this book was being researched in the summer and fall of 2008, prices for goods and services, including restaurant meals, hotels and admissions, were still denominated in Slovak crowns. Prices here have been converted to euros at the prevailing rate of exchange (1€ = 30 Sk) but may differ slightly from the actual prices after euro adoption on January 1, 2009.
Tips On Accommodations
The number of newer, privately owned hotels is on the increase. If you arrive in town without a room, the best place to go is the local tourist information office. Many of these, including the helpful office in Bratislava, can advise on rooms and book according to your wishes. Failing that, look around for private rooms, usually identified by the word UBYTOVANIE (accommodations) or PRIVAT on the outside. These are invariably bed-without-bathroom setups, usually in an unused part of the family home, but are almost always clean and cheap.
Tips On Dining
With disposable incomes on the rise, more people are eating out more often and the restaurant situation is improving dramatically. The transformation is easiest to see in Bratislava and Kosice. That said, you may still find yourself in a small town with relatively few options aside from the ubiquitous pizzeria on the main square and a couple of unappetizing pubs, catering mostly to old guys crouched over beers. While you may occasionally find good food in an old pub, it's usually a safer -- if less interesting -- bet to go with the pizza. On the other hand, special folklore-type restaurants, sometimes with the word koliba in the name, are a real treat, usually serving traditional foods and grilled meats, occasionally with a live band or "gypsy" music to accompany the meal.
Getting There
By Plane -- Bratislava's regional airport (letisko), M.R. Stefánik Airport (tel. 02/3303-3353; www.airportbratislava.sk) is 9km (5 miles) northeast of the city. Czech Airlines/CSA (www.csa.cz) maintains regular air service to and from Prague. Budget carrier SkyEurope (www.skyeurope.sk) flies to several European capitals, including London (Luton), Paris (Orly), Amsterdam, and Rome, and several smaller European cities. Other airlines that fly to Bratislava include the budget carrier Ryanair, Austrian Air, and Lufthansa. Vienna's Schwechat airport (tel. 431-7007-22233; www.viennaairport.com), 67km (42 miles) west of Bratislava, offers more flights, and remains the only option for direct flights to and from North America. Bratislava is a 70-minute bus ride away.
By Train -- Regular train service links Bratislava with Vienna (1 hr.), Prague (5 hr.), and Budapest (3 hr.). For exact times, check the Slovak State Railway (ZSR; tel. 02/18188; www.slovakrail.sk) online timetable (be sure to use "Praha" to search for Prague, "Wien" to search for Vienna, and so on). Most international trains arrive at Bratislava's centrally located Hlavná Stanica, Predstanicne námestie 1 (tel. 02/18188), about 20 minutes by tram or 10 minutes by taxi to the Old Town.
By Bus -- The Slovak national bus carrier, Slovak Lines (tel. 0900/211-312; www.slovaklines.sk), together with the Europe-wide consortium of bus operators, Eurolines (www.eurolines.com), maintains regular long-distance bus service from Bratislava to a number of European capitals and other cities, though this service is coming under increasing competition from budget airlines. Bratislava's main bus station is at Mlynské nivy 31 (tel. 02/12111; www.cp.sk).
By Car -- Bratislava lies on a main central European motorway, linking Prague with Budapest. The drive to Bratislava from Prague (320km/198 miles) will take 3 to 4 hours, depending on traffic. From Budapest (250km/155 miles), expect to drive about 3 hours. The drive from Vienna (70km/43 miles) will take about 1 hour, but try to avoid travel on Fridays to miss frequent preweekend backups at the border crossing. Note that you will have to buy a special sticker to drive on Slovak highways. The sticker, available at border crossings and at major gas stations, costs around 5€ ($6.35) for 1 week, and 10€ ($13) for a month. If you rent a car in Slovakia, the rental should include a valid highway sticker.
By Boat -- It's possible to travel between Bratislava and Vienna by high-speed catamaran (about 75 min.). Check Twin City Liner (tel. 0903/610-716; www.twincityliner.com). Boats depart from the main dock area on Rásuzovo náb, just behind the Devin Hotel. Fares run from 16€ to 26€ ($23-$33) per person one-way. Regular ferry service is also available to Vienna and Budapest (about 4-5 hr.). Contact LOD (tel. 02/5293-2226; www.lod.sk).
Fast Facts
American Express -- There's no full-service American Express office in Bratislava, but some Amex services are offered through Agency Alex, Kuzmanyho 8 (tel. 02/5941-2200).
Business Hours -- Stores and offices are generally open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm. Banks are open Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm. Some larger stores have limited Saturday hours, usually 9am to noon. Museums and other tourist attractions are often closed on Mondays.
Doctors & Dentists -- Phone tel. 155 in a medical emergency. In Bratislava, there's a doctor on 24-hr. call at the Ruzinov clinic, Ruzinovská 10 (tel. 02/4823-4113). Private dental services are available at Drienová 38 (tel. 02/4342-3433).
Electricity -- Slovak outlets follow the Continental norm (220v, 50hz) with two round plugs. Most appliances that run on 110v will require a transformer.
Embassies -- U.S.: Hviezdoslavovo námestie 4 (tel. 02/5443-0861); Canada: Mostová 2 (tel. 02/5920-4031); U.K.: Panská 16 (tel. 02/5998-2000).
Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial the following numbers: police tel. 158, fire tel. 150, ambulance tel. 155, road assistance tel. 154.
Internet Access -- Internet cafes are located throughout Bratislava and in all larger cities. Rates vary but are around 1€ ($1.27) for 30 minutes online. Nearly all hotels will offer some form of Internet connection -- either in-room dataports or wireless -- and many will have at least one public computer for guests to use.
Luggage Storage & Lockers -- Railroad stations in large cities, including Bratislava's main station, have storage lockers or an attendant to watch luggage.
Mail -- The main post office is at námestie SNP 35, just outside the main gate to the Old Town. The post office is open Monday to Friday 7am to 8pm, Saturday 7am to 6pm, and Sunday 9am to 2pm. The rate for mailing a postcard or first-class letter to the U.S. or Canada is around 1€ ($1.27), and slightly less within Europe.
Safety -- Crime is generally low, but as everywhere use common sense.
Telephones & Fax -- Slovakia's country code is 421. To dial Slovakia from abroad, dial the international access code (011 in the U.S.), plus 421 and then the local Slovak area code (minus the zero). The area code for Bratislava is 02. Other commonly used area codes are: Trencín 032, Zilina 041, the High Tatras 052, and Kosice 055. To call between cities within Slovakia, dial the area code (retaining the zero) plus the number. To call abroad from Slovakia, dial 00, and then the country code and area code to where you are calling. A call to the U.S. or Canada would begin 00-1 (plus the seven-digit number).
Time Zone -- Slovakia is in the Central European Time zone (CET), 1 hour ahead of GMT and 6 hours ahead of the eastern United States.
Tipping -- In restaurants, tip about 10% of the bill to reward good service. Round up taxi fares to the next even euro amount. Tip bellhops and tour guides a few euro coins, depending on the services rendered.
Toilets -- You will find decent public toilets in cities and towns throughout Slovakia. Expect to pay about .20€ (30¢) to use the facilities.
Water -- Tap water is generally potable and there are no specific health concerns. If in doubt, buy bottled water, which is cheap and widely available.
When to Go
Slovakia has a continental climate with four distinct seasons. Summers are generally warm to very hot, and have reliably good weather. Winter is ski season in the resorts of the Malá Fatra, and the Low and High Tatras. Ski season starts in late December and runs through March. Spring and fall are generally ideal. The months of May, September, and October bring warm sunny days and crisp cool nights. By the end of October, hotels and many sights start shutting down for the winter.
Holidays -- Offices, banks, museums, and many stores are closed on the following holidays, though some stores and restaurants remain open: January 1 (New Year's Day, Day of the Establishment of the Slovak Republic), January 6 (Epiphany), Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday (Mar/Apr), May 1 (Labor Day), May 8 (Victory over Fascism Day), July 5 (St. Cyril and Methodius Day), August 29 (Slovak National Uprising Day), September 1 (Constitution Day), September 15 (Day of Our Lady of Sorrows), November 1 (All Saints' Day), November 17 (Day of the Fight for Democracy), December 24 (Christmas Eve), and December 25 and 26 (Christmas).
Major Festivals in Slovakia -- The major festivals in Slovakia usually celebrate either religious rites or the country's folk origins. Among the biggest religious celebrations is the annual Maria pilgrimage in Levoca the first weekend in July. Unless you're a pilgrim, or eager to see a pilgrimage in full force, try to avoid Levoca on that weekend; otherwise you'll find yourself elbow to elbow with 100,000 other people looking for hotel rooms and tables at restaurants. Nearly every village holds a folk festival of some sort or another during the summer months (too many to list here), but the granddaddy of them all is the Východná festival in early July in the town of Východná, not far from Liptovský Mikulás. The Pohoda Music Festival (www.pohodafestival.sk) in mid-July in Trencín is the highlight of the outdoor rock music season, drawing many of the best alternative and independent bands from around Europe and United States.
Getting Around
By Car -- Car travel offers the most flexibility, and if your plans are to see some of the countryside away from the main cities, you should consider renting a car. To rent, you'll need a license that's valid in the country of origin (U.S. state licenses are acceptable), a major credit card, and a passport. Slovak driving rules follow Continental norms. A yellow diamond denotes a main road where you do not need to yield to incoming traffic at intersections. At unmarked intersections, yield to cars on the right. Cars on roundabouts have the right of way. Speed limits are 130kmph (81 mph) on four-lane highways, 90kmph (55 mph) on open roads, and 50kmph (30 mph) in villages and incorporated areas. Speed limits are rigorously enforced, and if caught you'll have to pay a spot fine of about 35€ ($44) or higher. The blood alcohol limit is zero. Slovakia has only a few stretches of four-lane, limited-access highway, so prepare yourself for some slow two-lane travel, where you're usually trapped behind a belching truck or a painfully slow bus. Remember to pass with care and only with a clear line of sight.
By Train -- Slovakia's aging but serviceable national rail line, ZSR (tel. 02/18188; www.slovakrail.sk), remains the best way to travel directly between most major cities, including Zilina, Trencín, Poprad, and Kosice.
By Bus -- The national bus line, Slovak Lines (tel. 0900/211-312; www.slovaklines.sk), operates a dense network of bus connections that, in theory, should be able to get you nearly anywhere in the country. Bus and train fares are similar and you should make your choice between the two based on convenience of departure times and connections. The Slovak Lines website has a convenient timetable for figuring out connections, but watch to use Slovak spellings for town and city names.
