Planning a trip to Slovenia
Visitor Information
The Slovenian Tourist Board, Dunajska cesta 156, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia (tel. +386/1/589-1840; fax +386/1/589-1841), is incredibly organized, pitching every aspect of the country on its excellent website (www.slovenia.info), from which you can download or order over a dozen different brochures.
Entry Requirements & Customs
Citizens of the U.S., Canada, the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand do not presently require visas for stays of up to 90 days. Check the Foreign Ministry website (www.mzz.gov.si) for any updates on visa and entry requirements. Visitors to Slovenia are exempt from Customs duty on items intended for personal use; additionally, you may import 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, 2 liters of wine, and 1 liter of spirits, as well as 50 grams of perfume or .25 liters of toilet water. Visit www.carina.gov.si if you have any queries in this regard. There are no restrictions on cash brought into the country.
Money
Slovenia started using the euro in January 2007. Exchange facilities are widely available, as are ATMs and credit card facilities; you can swipe your card almost anywhere, including at gas stations.
Getting There
By Plane -- Slovenia's national carrier, Adria Airways (www.adria.si), has regularly scheduled flights over 20 European cities. Your best option for a reasonably seamless flight from North America or Australasia is Air France (www.airfrance.com), via Paris, which has flights from most major cities, and up to four daily flights to Ljubljana with its short-haul carrier, Régional. Flight time from Paris is about an hour. It's also worth checking out flights with Austrian Airlines (www.aua.com) and Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com). British low-cost airline easyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies to Ljubljana from London's Stansted airport daily; the London-Ljubljana flight is 2 hours. Czech Airlines has flights from Prague, Malev flies from Budapest, and Turkish Airlines arrives from Istanbul. You could also consider flying to Venice or Trieste in Italy, and then getting a train or car for the short trip to Slovenia.
By Train -- Daily services connect Slovenia (usually by way of Ljubljana) with larger cities in neighboring countries. Venice (245km/152 miles), Vienna (385km/239 miles), Zagreb (135km/84 miles), and Budapest (491km/304 miles) are all an easy train ride away.
By Car -- You'll have little trouble driving into and around Slovenia. Be aware that border crossings with Croatia can get jam-packed in the summer; there is a great deal of vacation and business traffic passing in and out, and its entry points can get crowded.
Getting Around
By Car -- Slovenia's size makes driving here very attractive; besides, you'll be able to get into many smaller villages unnoticed by those on trains and buses. Drive on the right-hand side and pick up a road map (from Tourist Information centers at the airport and in Ljubljana). On expressways, the speed limit is 130kmph (81 mph); on highways, 100kmph (62 mph); on secondary roads, 90kmph (56 mph); and in built-up areas, 50kmph (31 mph). Keep your headlights on at all times, wear your seat belt, and do not use your cellphone while driving. Carry your driver's license and insurance documentation at all times. Gas stations are ubiquitous; you can pay for gas using most credit cards.
Since June 2008, travel on Slovenian highways and expressways requires that all vehicles are in possession of a vinjet (vignette) sticker. Available at gas stations and valid for 6 months, they cost 35€ ($22) and mean that drivers no longer need to stop at toll booths (they've been decommissioned). If you rent a car, ask if the vehicle comes with the license; most do, but you will be fined between 300€ and 800€ ($186-$1,016) if you're caught driving on highways without one. Visit the website of the Automobile Association of Slovenia (www.amzs.si) for information about traffic and details of what to do in emergencies. This is also a good place to get the lowdown on Slovenia's complicated parking rules; you can also call their Information Center (tel. 01/530-5300). For road emergencies, call tel. 1987; you'll get immediate roadside assistance and a towing service if necessary. You can also call their breakdown assistance hotline (tel. 01/530-5353). For up-to-date traffic information, call tel. 01/518-8518 or 080-2244.
By Train -- Slovenia's train network is fairly extensive and reliable; it's also inexpensive. InterCity ("IC") trains are faster than potniski, or slow trains, which stop at every backwater village. English timetables are available at www.slo-zeleznice.si. Usually you'll be able to purchase tickets for domestic journeys at the station just before departure. Ticketing staff is incredibly helpful.
By Bus -- Buses are slightly more expensive than trains, but the network is more extensive, allowing access to more remote destinations; they're also more frequent (except at weekends in some areas). Buses are operated by a number of local companies, and the larger towns have stations with computerized booking systems.
By Bike -- Slovenes love cycling and it's possible to rent bikes in most towns for countryside exploration. Cycling is also popular within cities and towns; in Ljubljana, where parking is problematic and distances are quite short, bikes are definitely the easiest and most economical way of getting around. While riding on highways is not permitted, you'll discover a vast network of bike trails that will take you through some of the most spectacular terrain in Europe.
Tips on Accommodations
Accommodations range from average to superb. There's a five-star classification system loosely reflecting the quality of hotels, but it certainly doesn't give a clear indication of price, which is dependent on demand. June through August is considered peak vacation season, when you should reserve accommodations well in advance, especially on the coast; the exception to this is the ski resorts that fill up between December and February.
To avoid high hotel costs, consider staying at a penzion or a small, family-run hotel; these might be referred to as gostisce. There are an increasing number of upper-end establishments, particularly in resort towns, spas, and in the capital. The country's hostels are among the very best in Europe.
Tips on Dining
Generally, you'll be choosing to eat in either a restavracija (restaurant) or a gostilna, which is more like a tavern with down-to-earth atmosphere. If there are accommodations attached to the tavern, they will probably be called a gostisce, making them a real "inn." Okrepcevalnice are snack bars where you can get in-between fillers or light meals. Meat (including horse) and fish feature heavily on the Slovene menu, and -- depending on where you are -- the cuisine shows some Austrian, Hungarian, or Italian influences; in Ljubljana there are a wide range of international dining establishments. Note: Like Italy, many upmarket restaurants in Slovenia add a "bread and cover" fee to your bill -- in short, a 1€ to 3€ ($1.25-$3.80) cover charge that you must pay for the mere privilege of sitting at the table.
Tours & Travel Agents
Based in the U.K., Just Slovenia (tel. 44/1373/814230; www.justslovenia.co.uk) arranges reliable all-inclusive personalized trips to Slovenia. Another British outfit is Slovene Dream (tel. 44/20/7737-3054; www.slovenedream.com), which books tailor-made itineraries and accommodations at individually selected properties across the country. You will also discover links to various other agencies on the Slovenian Tourist Board website (www.slovenia.info).
When to Go
When to Go
Slovenia is wonderful all year round, enjoying a mix of Alpine, continental, and Mediterranean climates. In winter, the Julian Alps are just one of many mountain ranges that are ideal for skiing and snowboarding. Be wary midsummer, however; in July, Slovenes take a break from everyday life and head for the coast (of Croatia, mostly). So while it's a great time to see the old towns in the east, the capital is rather quiet, and the coast crowded.
Holidays -- Slovenian public holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1), Preseren Day (Feb 8); Day of Uprising Against Occupation (Apr 27), Easter Day and Easter Monday, Labor Day (May 1, 2), Statehood Day (June 25), Assumption (Aug 15), Reformation Day (Oct 31), Remembrance Day (Nov 1), Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Independence Day (Dec 26).
Major Festivals in Slovenia -- The eastern town of Ptuj erupts with life on Shrove Sunday (mid-Feb), when 50,000 people assemble for the country's anticipated Kurentovanje. This winter carnival has revelers taking to the streets in spectacular Kurent masks and costumes -- an outrageous pagan spring celebration that's become an awesome excuse for a raucous party. For 2 weeks in late June, Maribor hosts the Lent Festival, one of the most exciting cultural events in Slovenia, attracting great musical acts and supporters from all over Europe. In mid-July, Lasko holds a weeklong beer festival, probably the best place to experience Slovenia's affection for drinking, polka bands, and live music. Ljubljana Summer Festival runs from July through to the middle of September and features performances of all kinds -- film, theater, jazz, chamber music, opera, ballet, symphony concerts, theater, and puppetry. Ljubljana also hosts the Druga Godba (The Other Music), an alternative music festival scheduled around late May; while in late June, you can catch the Ljubljana Jazz Festival, the oldest jazz festival in Europe. In mid-July, the popular summer resort of Bled hosts Blejski Dnevi (Bled Days), a festival of music, craft markets, fireworks, and a candlelit lake.
On the last Sunday in August, Predjama Castle hosts Erazem's Medieval Tournament, complete with jousting knights on horseback and costumes from the Middle Ages. The Cow's Ball (Kravji Bal) happens at Lake Bohinj over the second or third weekend in September; the cows literally come home from the mountains and villagers set about their drink-fueled merrymaking. On November 11 (St. Martin's Day), look out for winemaking celebrations in the country's wine regions.
Fast Facts
Addresses -- Throughout this guide, the following Slovene words may occur as part of an address: ulica (street), cesta (road), trg (square), pot (trail), and steza (path).
Airlines -- All the major airlines have offices either in Ljubljana or at the airport. Adria Airways: Kuzmiceva 7, Ljubljana; tel. 01/369-1010, airport tel. 04/259-4339, toll-free: tel. 080-1300; www.adria-airways.com. Air France: tel. 01/244-3447 or 01/242-8403, airport tel. 04/206-1674; www.airfrance.com/si.
Area Code -- For Slovenia, dial tel. +386.
Banks & Currency Exchange -- ATMs are your best bet for getting cash quickly, although credit cards are also accepted for cash advances at most banks.
Business Hours -- Shops should be open weekdays 8am to 7pm, and Saturday 8am to 1pm. On Sundays, some shops and services may open at 11am and do business until 5pm. Banks usually take a midday break between 12:30 and 2pm, and close at 5pm, and are open Saturday mornings until 11am or noon. Most attractions close on Mondays.
Car Rentals -- All major international car-rental agencies are represented; rates are competitive and vehicles are in excellent condition; always return the car with a full tank to avoid a 50% surcharge. Avis: tel. 01/583-8780; www.avis.si. Hertz: tel. 01/239-6010; www.hertz.si. Europcar: tel. 031-382-052; www.europcar.si.
Drugstores -- Lekarna are found in all towns, and are open from early until 7 or 8pm. It shouldn't be too difficult to track down an all-night drugstore, or dezurna lekarna.
Electricity -- Local current is 220 volts. Outlets take plugs with two round prongs, typical to continental Europe. Plug and power adapters are necessary for appliances requiring 110 volts.
Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies and consulates are in Ljubljana. U.S. Embassy: Presernova cesta 31; tel. 01/200-5500; fax 01/200-5555; www.usembassy.si. U.K. Embassy: Trg Republike 3/IV; tel. 01/200-3910; fax 01/425-0174; www.british-embassy.si. Consulate of Canada: Dunajska 22; tel. 01/252-4444; fax 01/430-3575. Australian Consulate: Dunajska 50; tel. 01/425-4252; fax 01/426-4721; austral.cons.sloven@siol.net. Consulate of New Zealand: Verovskova 57; tel. 01/580-3055; fax 01/568-3526; janja.bratos@lek.si.
Emergencies -- Dial tel. 113 for police emergencies; fire service, tel. 112; ambulance, tel. 112. For nonaccident road emergencies, call AMZS at tel. 1987.
Internet Access -- Slovenia has good Internet service, although dedicated Internet cafes are few. Most hotels have in-room Internet connectivity.
Liquor Laws -- The legal age for drinking is 18.
Mail -- Post offices (look for signs that read POS[AV]TA) are generally open weekdays 8am to 6pm, and Saturdays 8am to 1pm; mail service is efficient and reliable.
Maps -- Good maps are available at the airport, and tourist offices around the country will give you everything you might need to find your way around. Gas stations have also been supplied with a range of free maps produced by the Tourist Board.
Newspapers & Magazines -- You'll find heaps of useful tourist publications at the airport. The Slovenia Times is published in English every 2 weeks.
Police -- Dial tel. 113.
Restrooms -- Clean and user-friendly; you'll pay a very small fee to use public facilities at train and bus stations.
Safety & Crime -- One of Europe's safest countries, with a below-average crime rate.
Taxes & Service Charges -- VAT will generally be included in all quoted prices; at all hotels, there will be an extra "tourist tax" of around 1€ ($1.25) per night.
Telephones -- Use a phonecard, bought at post offices and newsstands, to use public pay phones, which are fairly ubiquitous; you can also call from a booth at the post office. Numbers in Slovenia have seven digits; this should be preceded by the two-digit area code if you're calling from a different region.
Time Zone -- Slovenia is 1 hour ahead of GMT.
Tipping -- Leave 10% to 15% for all good restaurant and bar service.
Water -- Slovenia's water is clean and delicious; in some areas, it's considered among the purest water in Europe.
Weather Information -- Dial tel. 090-7130.
Regions in Brief
Easy to miss on even the largest of maps, Slovenia is tucked into the armpit formed by Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the east, and Croatia to the south. It's pretty much in the center of Europe, about the same distance from London as it is from Istanbul, and more or less midway between Moscow and Lisbon.
Ljubljana is more or less in the center of the country. To the north, the Julian Alps on the Italian border form one natural perimeter of the Triglav National Park, synonymous with the triple-peak Triglav Mountains seen on the national flag. Triglav's proud peaks add to the splendor of the country's most cherished lakes, Bled and Bohinj, both defining features on the country's tourist trail. Tucked between Triglav and the Italian border is the fantastic Soca River Valley, a tour de force for travelers looking for river and mountain thrills. And stretched along the northern Austrian border is the Karavanke Mountain range, providing rewarding views as you drive anywhere north of the capital.
Slovenia's southwest is defined by its unique limestone formations that make up the unique region known as the Karst, a term that has been exported around the world to describe similar "Karstic" phenomena. Squeezed between Italy's Trieste and the border with Croatia is Slovenia's tiny slither of Istrian coastline, with fishing ports of distinctly Venetian influence. Finally, more mountains, wine lands, and remnants of a Roman and medieval past are found in the less traveled east.
