Planning a trip to South Africa

Tips for Families

South Africa is regarded as the most child-friendly country in Africa, with plenty of family accommodations options, well-stocked shops, sunshine, safe beaches, high hygiene standards, wild animals, babysitters, and burgers on tap. Hotels and guest lodges usually provide discounts for children under 12, and children under age 2 sharing with parents are usually allowed to stay for free. Ages and discounts vary considerably, however, so it's best to check beforehand. South Africa also has a large number of excellent self-catering cottages, increasingly referred to in the trade as "villas" -- often the cheapest and most comfortable luxury accommodation option for families, with space and privacy (and a concierge service to arrange chef, chauffer, au pair, and so on, if you so wish). Bear in mind that many operators in private game reserves are loathe to accept children under 12. Because prophylactics are not recommended for those under 5, choose a malaria-free area, or visit during a dry winter. Again, nothing beats renting your own space, be it a self-drive budget safari in the Kruger or staying and having your own vehicle and guide for a flexible safari that the entire family will enjoy.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

South Africa's constitution outlaws any discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation, making it one of the most progressive in the world. Big cities are gay friendly, and Cape Town, often called the gay capital of Africa, was voted the second-largest gay capital in the world. For a comprehensive listing of gay-friendly or gay-only places and events, accommodations, adventure activities, tours, and entertainment, visit www.capetown.tv. Gay Pages, a Yellow Pages of sorts, is South Africa's largest and longest-running directory for gay and lesbian people; you may also want to refer to the newcomer Pink Pages (www.gaysouthafrica.org.za), though the focus in the latter is more on places to stay. For a host of up-to-the-minute news, as well as such opportunities as SMS dating, look at www.Q.co.za.

The Western Cape is a great area to tour by car, with gay-run and gay-friendly lodgings in myriad little villages in the Winelands, coast, and Karoo (Barrydale has even been fondly nicknamed "Marydale"). Upmarket lodges and camps in private game reserves are equally accepting. The same cannot be said of countries bordering South Africa, however. Zimbabwean President Robert Mugabe is a virulent homophobe, and homosexuality is effectively a criminal offense, so be discreet if visiting here or Zambia (though the towns adjoining the Falls are pretty international in their outlook). For more information, visit The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (www.iglta.org), the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry. It offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Every traveler entering South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Botswana is required to show a passport valid for at least 6 months. Note that under South Africa's Immigration Act of 2002, the passport must also contain at least one unused page for endorsements. If you do not yet have a passport, allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for one. The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications and list the current processing fees.

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050, in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100; or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410; or search the website www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State's website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

South Africa -- Aside from a valid passport, citizens of the United States, the E.U., the U.K., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand need only a return ticket for a 90-day stay in South Africa. Upon entering, you will automatically be given a free entry permit sticker. Visitors wanting to stay for a longer period will have to apply formally for a visa, as opposed to relying on the automatic entry permit. For more information, visit the South African Home Affairs Department website, www.home-affairs.gov.za.

Botswana -- To enter Botswana, sufficient funds to finance your stay, as well as outgoing travel documents, are required. Holders of U.S., Commonwealth, and most European passports do not require visas.

Zimbabwe -- At press time, to enter Zimbabwe, visa fees depend on nationality. For British nationals, a single entry costs $55 ($70 for double entry). U.S. nationals must pay $45 (this is automatically a double-entry visa). Canadians pay $75. Australians and New Zealanders can purchase one for $30 (double entry $45). If you intend to purchase a visa upon arrival, double check these figures -- they tend to change pretty regularly. Remember to take two passport photographs; you can print out and complete the application forms beforehand. All visitors need tickets of return or onward travel, cash at the border to pay the visa fee, and sufficient funds to support their stay. Note that visa fees are subject to frequent changes, due to diplomatic and economic unease within Zimbabwe, and visitors are advised to check current status with a travel agent. You can, of course, obtain your visa in advance, which will reduce the amount of time you need to spend at any border post, but this will incur an additional fee ($25 and upward); consult your travel agent in this regard or use Travel Document Systems. (For visa applications and physical addresses in New York, San Francisco, and Washington, D.C., visit www.traveldocs.com.)

Zambia -- Regarding visa fees to Zambia, 2009 saw a return to a more equitable tourism policy. All passport holders are now charged $50 for a single-entry visa and $80 for a multiple-entry visa. Note that day visitors to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls from Zimbabwe can purchase a $20 day visa at the bridge (visit www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm).

Customs

What You Can Take Home from Southern Africa -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens -- U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens -- Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens -- HM Customs & Excise (tel. 0845/010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 outside the U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens -- Australian Customs Service (tel. 1300/363-263 or www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens -- New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

No inoculations are necessary, unless you're from (or traveling via) a country where yellow fever is endemic, in which case you'll need a vaccination certificate to enter. If you're a nervous traveler or are traveling off the beaten track, ask your doctor or a travel-health specialist about vaccinations for tetanus and hepatitis. It's no sweat to make sure you're immunized against polio; it's administered as drops on the tongue.

But the only real medical risk, depending on where you travel, is malaria. Parts of northern KwaZulu-Natal, Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves, Zimbabwe, and Botswana are all high-risk malaria zones, though some become low-risk areas in the dry winter months (visit www.travelclinic.co.za for a map of malaria zones, as well as maps showing risk areas for yellow fever and hepatitis; www.meditravel.co.za is another useful site). Both Hluhluwe-Umfolozi (KwaZulu-Natal) and the Kruger are usually low-risk areas from May to September (generally, this means no medication is necessary, though other protective measures are advisable). Do note that this depends on the rainfall during the previous summer -- a very wet summer will heighten the risk in what is normally a low-risk area in the winter. Check with a travel clinic, or contact malaria@mweb.co.za.

Tips on Accommodations

The choice of accommodations can make or break a holiday, so we take special pride in providing you with the best recommendations. The selection in this guide covers a wide variety of budgets, but all share the common ability to delight -- be it because of a fabulous location, special decor, great service, or excellent views (and, of course, some cover all those criteria). For the sake of variety, I'm not keen on booking an entire holiday through one hotel chain, but sometimes you can negotiate a better deal this way. Three Cities (www.threecities.co.za) is probably my favorite hotel group, though it doesn't include my favorite hotels. They offer a wide variety of properties in South Africa's best locations. If you want a luxury safari with a possible beach stop, you will certainly want to contact Wilderness Safaris and &Beyond, both in Kruger, Botswana, and Kwazulu Natal (www.wilderness-safaris.com and www.andbeyond.com). Wilderness Safaris has the best (and most) locations in Botswana; &Beyond has the edge in terms of design and such luxuries as personal butlers.

The following sites featuring property collections are highly recommended: Specializing in owner-managed establishments with real character, often in unusual locations, is the Greenwood Guide to South Africa (www.greenwoodguides.com). If you intend to spend a lengthy amount of time in South Africa and cover a lot of ground, and if you like self-catering options off the beaten track or intimate places where you can interact with the owners, the Greenwood team's unerring eye for unusual and personal lodgings will stand you in good stead. Portfolio (www.portfoliocollection.com) brings out an attractive range of free booklets profiling the full spectrum of options across the country; all the properties are online as well. The B&B Collection offers fair to excellent budget options, some in quite luxurious surroundings. If anything, you have almost too many choices -- not all of them to our standard -- but if you stick to the Luxury and Great Comfort options (indicated by colored shields), you're likely to be delighted with the good value. In the Retreats Collection, the focus is upmarket guesthouses where you usually can't go wrong (though a few duds creep in every year); top of the range is the Country Places Collection, which includes some of the best game lodges in the country. Each review comes with at least one photograph -- with more on their website. If a safari is the primary reason you're heading south, you'd be well advised to take a look at the excellent selection in Classic Safari Camps of Africa (www.classicsafaricamps.com).

Note: South Africa has a great selection of self-catering options -- good for families or for those wishing to prolong their stay -- and, thanks to restaurant delivery services in most urban centers, you won't even have to cook. A number of companies offer what is referred to as the Villa Stay, most of them in Cape Town. Icon Villas (www.icape.co.za) offers a particularly good service, with a wide range of properties, from flats in the center of Cape Town to private villas on game lodges; but it is the hands-on management by proprietor Therese Botha, with her attention to detail, from quality of linen to great location, that gives them an edge. Icon also offers a full concierge service. For rural options, try to track down the excellent Budget Getaways, or go to www.farmstay.co.za for more off-the-beaten-track options. Last but not least, those looking at the most cost-effective way to travel should visit www.homeexchange.com. There are some superb South African homes listed here -- many of them in the most sought-after areas in Cape Town, with views, pools, and ultraluxurious furnishings and fittings.

Tips for Senior Travelers

South Africa is not a difficult destination for seniors to navigate. Driving on the "wrong" side of the road is probably the most intimidating prospect you'll have to face here. Admission prices to attractions are usually reduced for seniors (also known as "pensioners" in South Africa). Don't be shy about asking for discounts, and always carry some kind of identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth. Accommodations discounts are unusual; national parks, for instance, may offer special rates, but these are for South African nationals only. Note that members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), have access to a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter; anyone over 50 can join. Elderhostel (tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) is an excellent site, arranging study programs for those ages 55 and over, to all the countries listed in this book; ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) does the same. INTRAV (tel. 800/456-8100; www.intrav.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler (not specifically seniors), with trips around the world that include guided safaris. In the U.K., Saga (www.saga.co.uk) leads the charge, offering a wide range of options for those over 50.

Tips for Student Travelers

If you're traveling internationally, you'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which may offer savings on some entrance fees and has basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.sta.com or www.statravel.com; or www.statravel.co.uk in the U.K.), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadian and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1600; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

South Africa has a large number of lodges and activities catering to the backpacker market -- in Cape Town, contact Africa Travel Centre (tel. 27/21/423-5555; www.backpackers.co.za), a recommended backpackers' resource near the center of town, with comfortable accommodations and an excellent travel desk aimed at the budget traveler.

Getting Around

How you choose to get around depends largely on the length of your vacation. Visitors with limited days at their disposal usually hop by plane between two or three key destinations, but in many ways, this is underutilizing a holiday in South Africa. With a well-maintained and well-organized road system traversing arresting landscapes, a good range of car-rental companies, relatively low fuel costs, and -- outside the cities -- roads that are virtually empty of traffic, a combination of flight and road travel is the way to go if you are here for 2 weeks or longer. The Western and Eastern Cape region, in particular, is a wonderful area to explore by car, with charming B&Bs, wine farms, and guest lodges wherever you choose to rest your head. There is a choice of malaria-free game reserves in the Eastern Cape, and as such, it makes logistical sense to go on safari here. If you can afford the time, though, I'd recommend you fly north, either to the Kruger area or the Delta. Or, if you've experienced these destinations on a prior trip, head east to the majestic mountains and lush subtropical game and coastal reserves of KwaZulu-Natal.

Of course, nothing beats the romance of rail, and South Africa is blessed with two trains regularly included in the top 10 train trips in the world. There can be no better way to recover from jet lag than to fly to Johannesburg on an SAA flight (arrive in the morning), arrange for a transfer to Pretoria, board your Rovos Rail carriage , and spend the next 2 nights being rocked south to Cape Town. At the other end of the scale, those with a tight budget (and time to burn) can opt to travel by bus: The major intercity bus companies are reliable for long-distance hauls, and some are fairly flexible; for this, the Baz Bus, which offers a hop-on, hop-off service on interesting routes throughout the country, is unbeatable. Traveling in Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Botswana is not as straightforward -- public transport is unreliable, roads can be bad (or virtually nonexistent), fuel in Zimbabwe can be scarce, and help can take a long time coming in the event of a road emergency. The safest thing to do in these countries, particularly with limited time, is to fly directly to your intended destination, with all air transfers prearranged.

By Plane

If you have limited time to cover Africa's large distances, flying is your best bet. Thankfully, as a result of pressure created by the budget airlines Kulula.com and 1Time , South African Airways launched its own budget airline, Mango, which usually offers the lowest fares on the best fleet of planes (though the corporate colors may have you grabbing a sick bag, though being assaulted by neon is marginally more comfortable than the endless puns and wisecracks that Kulula force on their passengers). If you wait for last-minute deals, SAA is also more prone to slashing its own fares for passengers booking through the Web.

Details for the domestic airlines servicing all the major cities in South Africa are as follows: SA Express and SA Airlink (both domestic subsidiaries of SAA; tel. 27/11/978-1111; www.flysaa.com), BAComair (tel. 27/11/921-0222; www.ba.com), Kulula.com (tel. 086/158-5852; www.kulula.com), Mango (www.flymango.com), and 1Time (tel. 086/134-5345; www.1time.co.za). All the lodges recommended in this guide will arrange to charter a flight into the reserve (usually at a surcharged rate) if time is of the essence.

By Car

Given enough time, this is by far the best way to enjoy rural South Africa. In urban centers, drivers comfortable traveling on the left side are also better off hiring a car to get around, because public transport in the cities is generally not geared toward tourists and can be unsafe (though Cape Town rail is slowly getting its act together). Alternatively, utilize taxis while you are in the city and hire a car once you're ready to head out to the hills. All the major car-rental companies have agencies here, as do a host of local companies. All offer much the same deals, but cars are in big demand during the busiest period (Dec-Jan), so book well in advance.

Car-Rental Insurance -- Before you drive off in a rental car, be sure you're adequately insured, covering such things as whether your policy extends to all persons who will be driving the rental car, how much liability is covered in case an outside party is injured in an accident, and whether the type of vehicle you are renting is included under your contract.

Gasoline -- Fuel is referred to as "petrol" in South Africa and is available 24 hours a day in major centers. At press time, 1 liter cost just under R7 (4 liters is approximately 1 gal.). Gas stations are full-service, and you are expected to tip the attendant R2 to R5. Note: Credit cards are not accepted as payment.

Road Rules -- Again, South Africa has an excellent network of tarred and dirt roads, with emergency services available along the major highways; you cannot rely on this sort of backup on road conditions in Zimbabwe, Zambia, or Botswana. Driving in all three countries is on the left side of the road -- repeat the mantra "drive left, look right," and wear your seat belt at all times; it's mandatory, and, in any case, driving skills on the road vary considerably. Generally, the speed limit on national highways is 120kmph (74 mph), 100kmph (62 mph) on secondary rural roads, and 60kmph (37 mph) in urban areas. The Automobile Association of South Africa (AA) extends privileges to members of AAA in the United States and the Automobile Association in Britain. South African road condition information, route planning, toll information, distances, and directions are available in English via telephone, fax, or e-mail from the Travel Information Centre (tel. 27/11/799-14-00; fax 27/11/799-1254; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm). For breakdowns, contact the local emergency number (tel. 083-843-22); however, if an international member has rented a vehicle, it is recommended that they confirm with the relevant car rental company the procedures for dealing with an emergency or vehicle breakdown, and then use the emergency number provided by the car-rental company.

A Home on Wheels -- Britz Africa (tel. 27/11/396-1860; fax 27/11/3961937; www.britz.co.za) offers fully equipped camper vans and four-wheel-drive vehicles, with a full listing of places to park it; they'll also pick you up in your vehicle from the airport. Britz currently charges R1,400 a day for a motor home sleeping two, R1,650 for a motor home sleeping five; minimum rental period 5 days (and the per-day rate goes down after 20 days).

You'll need your driver's license to rent a car -- your home driving license is good for 6 months -- and most companies in South Africa stipulate that drivers should be a minimum of 21 years old (in Botswana, you must be 25 or older). Armed with a letter of authority from the rental agency, vehicles rented in South Africa may be taken into Botswana and Zimbabwe, though this requires 72 hours' notice, and additional insurance charges are applicable. You can leave the vehicle in these countries for a fee; in South Africa, you can hire a one-way rental car to any of the major cities. All the major companies have branches in South Africa, including Avis (www.avis.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), and Budget (www.budget.com). Also check out Europcar, voted the best rental agency in Africa in the 2007 and 2008 World Travel Awards. Tempest Car Hire (www.tempestcarhire.co.za) is my personal choice, offering a combination of professional service, branches throughout the country (as well as Namibia), and great rates (from R149 per day, at press time). Note that it's best to prebook your vehicle, particularly if you're traveling during the peak season (Dec-Feb).

By Train

If the journey is as important as the destination, splurge on a Deluxe Suite in the world-famous Rovos Rail (tel. 27/12/315-8242; www.rovos.co.za) or the longer-running Blue Train (tel. 27/12/334-8459; www.bluetrain.co.za). Both are billed as luxury hotels on wheels and predominantly run between Pretoria (the capital, near Johannesburg) and Cape Town. I can't think of a better way to get to Cape Town if you must arrive in Jo'burg. Of the two, Rovos Rail has the edge: It has the largest suites on wheels, the best en-suite bathrooms, beautiful dining rooms, great butler service, and an incredible wine list (included in the price, and a great introduction to South Africa's top wines). The Pretoria-Cape Town journey is a leisurely 3-day trip. (Tip: I'd skip the Kimberley tour, a scheduled stop and tour on Day 2, and stay cocooned in my suite.) Aside from the Pretoria-Cape Town run, there are a number of exciting routes, such as the 13-day journey to Tanzania or the 9-day journey to the Kruger, Durban, Garden Route, and Cape Town. It's expensive (from R22,000 double for 3-day one-way trip between Pretoria and Cape Town, all-inclusive) but relative to the other great train journeys of the world, rather good value. For a full listing of departure days for this year and the following two, as well as times, schedules, and up-to-date rates, visit the website.

Shosholoza Meyl, South Africa's long-haul rail transporter, has eight primary routes linking South Africa's cities with smaller towns along each route; ticket prices for a first-class carriage are comparable to a bus ticket to the same destination, but invariably take longer and are less comfortable. Second class is inadvisable, lacking comfort and safety.

The one option worth investigating is the Premier Classe, a kind of budget Blue Train, which travels between Johannesburg and Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban, and Cape Town and Port Elizabeth (tel. 086/000-8888; www.premierclasse.co.za). The latter could be a nice way to return to Cape Town after a self-drive exploration of the Garden Route and Eastern Cape game reserves. The most popular route remains the leg between Cape Town and Johannesburg: The Premier Classe train departs for Cape Town from Johannesburg every Thursday and Sunday, and arrives in Johannesburg from Cape Town every Tuesday and Saturday. It costs between R3,000 and R4,900 double one-way (all-inclusive); Johannesburg to Durban is R1,500 to R2,200 double one-way; Cape Town to Port Elizabeth is R2,200 to 3,500 double one-way.

By Bus

The three established intercity bus companies are Greyhound, Intercape, and Translux; all offer unbeatable value when it comes to getting around the country. My preference is for Intercape, the largest privately owned intercity passenger transport service in Southern Africa, and the most luxurious in Africa. Book a ticket on their Sleeperline so you can recline and book your seat (try for the top front for the best view). Johannesburg to Cape Town takes approximately 19 hours, which is about 8 hours less than the same trip by train.

An alternative to these is the 22-seater Baz Bus, which offers a flexible hop-on, hop-off scheme aimed at backpackers and covers almost the entire coastline, including some really off-the-beaten-track destinations, such as Port St Johns and Sodwana. It's a great way for budget travelers to explore the coast, areas around the Mpumalanga game reserves, Drakensberg, Swaziland, and Maputo, capital of neighboring Mozambique. You can purchase direct routes or 7-day, 14-day, and 21-day passes, which allow you to get on and hop off anywhere you wish for a fixed price.

• Baz Bus National (tel. 27/21/439-2323; www.bazbus.com; central reservations)
• Greyhound (tel. 27/83/915-9500; www.greyhound.co.za)
• Intercape (tel. 08/61/287-287, or 27/21/380-4400 international; www.intercape.co.za)
• Translux (tel. 08/61/589-282 or 27/11/774-3333; www.translux.co.za)

Special-Interest Vacations

Bird-Watching Trips

With so many habitats, southern Africa is one of the most rewarding bird-watching destinations in the world. Birders looking for escorted tours of the bush throughout the country, with the focus primarily but not exclusively on bird-watching, contact Peter Lawson (tel. 27/13/741-2458; www.lawsons.co.za). Not only is he excellent company, but he also loves what he does and puts together itineraries to suit your particular interests or needs.

Cultural & Historical Tours

Another good Cape Town tour worth booking in advance is a Cape Town Jazz Safari, offered by Andulela Tours (tel. 021/790-2592; www.andulela.com). The highly personal tour kicks off with a visit to the District Six Café for a drink, then heads off to the home of a well-known local musician, such as Mac McKenzie, the king of Goema (a fusion of jazz, samba, and traditional drumming), and ending at a restaurant in Landsdowne.

Palaeo-Tours (tel. 011/726-8788; www.palaeotours.com) offers fascinating trips to some of the key sites in what has become known as the Cradle of Humankind, declared a World Heritage Site in 1999 for the significant paleoanthropological discoveries made in the area since 1966. Guides are paleoanthropology scientists or Ph.D. students who will explain the history of evolution while taking you to working excavation sites. The area is some 20 minutes from Johannesburg city; tours, comprising two site visits, usually last 5 hours. All Palaeo-Tours are by arrangement only, so book before you leave home.

Adventure Activities

From dropping like a stone into the Batoka ravine to walking with lions and surfing the Zambezi as it churns like a washing machine, Victoria Falls is a mecca for adrenaline junkies and outdoors enthusiasts. For a complete list of what to do in the Victoria Falls area, check out Safari Par Excellence (www.safpar.net), though it's worth noting here that their elephant-back safaris have been very controversial. For a complete directory of operators specializing in adventure pursuits in South Africa, purchase the Getaway Adventure Guide or take a look at www.getawaytoafrica.com.

Food & Wine Trips

The delightfully named Samp and Soufflé (www.sampsouffle.com) specializes in custom-designed luxury "food adventures," in which you can help cook your meals with some of South Africa's most well-regarded chefs; learn to cook venison, say, in a tented camp deep in Big 5 country, or take self-driven or chauffeured gourmet tours that lead from one destination restaurant to the next. Excursions can include visits to authentic produce markets and working wine estates, where you will meet some of the country's most interesting wine makers. (Of course, you could just as easily book yourself a suite in Franschhoek, justifiably known as the culinary capital of the Cape, and just work your way through the superb selection of restaurants in that lush little valley.) For a short culinary tour, consider booking one of Andula's Cape Malay or African Cooking safaris (www.andulela.com), in which you visit a home in the local community and prepare a three-course meal with your hostess. This is not haute cuisine, by any means, but the interaction with real Cape locals (rather than the Eurocentric community that runs much of the tourism industry in the city) will be a lasting memory.

There are countless wine tours on offer, but serious wine lovers would do well to book a tour with Stephen Flesch (tel. 021/705-4317 or 083/229-3581; www.gourmetwinetours.co.za). Former chairman of the Wine Tasters Guild of S.A. and an ardent wine lover, Stephen personally knows many of the winemakers and proprietors of the top wine estates -- his knowledge of South African wines spans 4 decades. He will take into account your particular interests or wine preferences, and tailor an itinerary that covers both historical estates and rustic farms off the beaten track. The day trip includes a stop at one of the Winelands' top award-winning restaurants (he is, after all, secretary of Cape Town's Slow Food Convivium). Rates for a full day are R1,500 for the first person and R700 for each additional person. Half-day is R1,000 for the first person and R450 for each additional person.

Guides for Gourmets & Gourmands -- Cape Town is regularly cited as one of the best-value cities in the world for serious gourmets, who rave about the fine dining to be had at a fraction of what it would cost in comparable restaurants in New York, London, Paris, or Sydney. If you're a serious gourmand or are going to be here for a while, don't miss these three restaurant guides: Eat Out (www.eatout.co.za), an annual overview of restaurants throughout the country, with an annual top 10 that is highly rated (and coveted), is very thorough, and you can find a review on the restaurant closest to you with the click of a button. More discriminating and critical, dine, published by Wine magazine (www.winemag.co.za), also covers the country and publishes an annual top 100. Rossouw's Restaurants (www.rossouwsrestaurants.com) is an annual guide that divides top picks according to budget, as well as useful selections under such categories as "Family" and "Romantic"; diners send in most of the review notes, so you're not being influenced by a few food critics' palates (though Rossouw does the final edit).

When to Go

Roughly speaking, the summer months are December to March, autumn is April to May, winter is June to August, and spring is September to November. Because southern Africa is such a large area, and each region's offerings change with the seasons, when you go may determine where you go.

The Coast -- South Africa's southwestern coast (the province known as Western Cape) tends to attract the majority of international visitors during the summer months. Fortunately, the country is big enough to absorb these increased numbers without causing the discomfort most people associate with busy seasons, though parts of Cape Town become unbearably full for locals' tastes. Be aware, however, that accommodation prices do increase in summer, some by as much as 70%; and if you dislike crowds, you should try to avoid South Africa's coast during the busiest school holidays, which -- like elsewhere -- take place from around mid-December to mid-January. In fact, the hot months of February and March are considered by most Northern Hemisphere dwellers to be the best times to visit; not least, to escape what by then has felt like a very long winter up north. April, too, is a great month to visit, when the light takes on a softer hue, sunsets are often spectacular, and balmy temperatures are preferable for those who dislike baking heat. Note, though, that you'll need to book early if your visit coincides with Easter weekend, when you will compete with locals on their 10-day school vacation.

Depending on your interests, winter (June-Aug) brings substantial benefits, too: July to November are the months when the Southern Right whales migrate to the Cape's southern coast, providing the best land-based whale-watching in the world (and plenty of opportunities to see them by boat). With the Cape a winter rainfall area, local tourism authorities have aptly dubbed the May-to-August period its "green season," and indeed the Cape's valleys and mountains are an ideal verdant backdrop to dramatic displays of fynbos (shrublike plant) in flower. While it can at times rain continuously, the pattern is usually broken every few days with balmy, sun-drenched days. It's a wonderful time for Capetonians, who get to air their winter coats for only these few months and reclaim the city, now virtually empty of visitors, as their own.

If you're at all hankering for the sun, plan to head to the Garden Route and Karoo, preferably along Route 62, where year-round sunshine ensures that any time of year is a great time to tackle a driving tour of this region. Winter is also the ideal time to visit the east coast of Kwazulu-Natal, which can be oppressively humid in summer.

October to November is when the Cape floral kingdom again wows her human inhabitants with a new batch of flowering species, while the beaches, still relatively empty, sparkle in the temperate sun, and guesthouses and hotels, hungry after the winter wait, offer some of the best deals of the season.

Inland -- May to August are considered the best months for sighting big game in and around Kruger National Park. The foliage is less dense, malaria risk is lower, yet many of the private game reserve lodges drop their prices substantially.

June to October, however, is peak season in the Delta, Botswana; game-viewing is best at this time, thanks to the rains. Given the low-volume approach to tourism, lodges are booked months in advance, despite charging top dollar. The Delta is often combined with a visit to Victoria Falls, but the Falls are widely considered most impressive in full flood, between March and May, when some 500 million cubic liters of water cascade into the Batoka gorge every minute. The spray can obscure views, however, and prohibit riding the Batoka's Grade 5 rapids -- renowned in rafting circles as one of the most exhilarating rides in the world -- as they are out of bounds when the falls are in flood.

The Climate

Depending on where you are, average maximum temperatures can vary from 80°F (27°C; Cape Town) to 90°F (32°C; Kruger National Park) in the summer, and from an average 69°F (21°C; Cape Town) to 77°F (25°C; Durban) in winter. While summer is the most popular time, high humidity in KwaZulu-Natal can make for muggy days, and gale-force winds often occur in Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. Winter visitors would be well advised to pack warm clothes, despite higher average temperatures than in the United States or Europe. South African buildings are not geared for the cold; insulation is low on the priority list, and central heating is nonexistent. Temperatures in the interior fluctuate wildly in winter; you're best off layering.

Rainfall

South Africa is generally considered an arid region; two-thirds of the country receives less than 500mm (20 in.) of rain a year. In the interior, rain usually falls in the summer, and spectacular thunderstorms and the smell of damp earth bring great relief from the searing heat. The Garden Route enjoys rain year-round, usually at night. In Cape Town and surrounds, the rain falls mostly in the winter, when the gray skies are a perfect foil for the burnt-orange strelitzias, pink proteas, and fields of white arum lilies -- and an equally good accompaniment to crackling fires and fine South African red wines.

Holidays

If you are traveling during the South African school holidays, make sure you book your accommodations well in advance. (Check exact school holiday dates with South African Tourism, as provinces differ, but they usually run 4 weeks in Dec and Jan, 2 weeks in Apr, 3 weeks in June and July, and 1 week in Sept.) Flights can also be impossible to find, particularly over the Christmas holidays. Easter holidays (usually late Mar to mid-Apr) can also be busy, while the Kruger is almost always packed during the winter vacation (mid-June to mid-July). There's another short school break in spring, from late September to October 7.

Zimbabwe/Zambia

Zimbabwe and Zambia's climates are similar to that in South Africa's northern provinces, with a rainy season in summer, mostly between December and mid-March. Summers are warm to hot (late Oct-Dec can be uncomfortable), and winters are mild. Malaria is still a danger in many areas. There are tsetse flies in parts of the Zambezi Valley and in the southeast. And certain rivers, lakes, and dams are infected with bilharzia. Victoria Falls are often at their fullest around mid-April, at the end of the rainy season (Nov-Apr), though this is also when the mist created by the falling water may obscure the view and malaria-carrying mosquitoes are at their most prolific. Temperatures range from 90°F (32°C) in October and November to 60°F (16°C) in June and July. Many think the best time to see the falls is from August to December, when the view is clearer (though the flow of the water is at its lowest). June through December is high season for many of the upmarket lodges, which raise their prices during these months. You are unlikely to be affected by public holidays.

Botswana

Botswana has a pleasant, temperate climate with low humidity, with a maximum mean temperature of 91°F (33°C) in January and a minimum mean temperature of 38°F (4°C) in June. There are effectively two seasons: summer (Sept-Apr), with frequent rains and thunderstorms, and winter (May-Aug), with cold and dry days and nights. Rainfalls make the summer months a great time to visit the delta if you're interested in birds and plants, but it can get very hot. From April to September, the days are mild to warm, but temperatures drop sharply at night and early in the morning, particularly around June and July. Most consider these 2 months the best time to visit the delta, when the rain that falls on the Angolan bushveld plains seeps down to create what is referred to as the "flood." At this time, water lilies bloom, countless aquatic creatures frolic in the water, and a huge diversity of game from the surrounding dry areas moves into the delta. You are unlikely to be affected by public holidays.

Money

We have included only the two strongest currencies, the South African rand and Botswanan pula. Currency conversions as quoted above were correct at press time; as rates will no doubt continue to fluctuate, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic or www.xe.com/ucc to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The South African currency unit is the rand (ZAR or R), with 100 cents making up R1. Notes come in R10, R20, R50, R100, and R200. Minted coins come in 1-, 2-, and 5-rand denominations, and 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents -- small change doesn't buy much; gather and use for tips. The good news for foreign visitors is that the current climate has knocked the rand, despite the relative stability of the economy or the size of its gold reserves. To give some idea: In 2007, the rand was hovering at R7 to $1 and R14 to £1; at the start of 2009, it was fluctuating between R9 and R11 to the $1 and hit highs of R18 to the £1.

Even the pula, official currency of Botswana, the most expensive region in southern Africa, has taken a bit of a beating in recent years: At press time, it was hovering at P7.6 to $1 -- up from P6.15 2 years previously. It has little effect on visitors, though; lodgings and camps quote and charge in U.S. dollars almost without exception. In Zambia, lodgings do the same, quoting rates in dollars or euros; even roadside hawkers prefer foreign currency. If you do pick up some local currency, you will find the Zambian currency unit is the kwacha (K), in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, and 10,000, 20,000, and 50,000 kwacha notes.

Zimbabwe's hyperinflation -- kicked off in the early 2000s by Mugabe's "land reform" policy, in which vast swathes of productive white-owned farmland were given to so-called war veterans and now lie fallow -- led to a spontaneous replacement of the Zim dollar with foreign currencies. This "dollarization" process was finally legalized in late January 2009, and the Zimbabwe dollar was suspended in April (by which time a trillion note could not even buy a loaf of bread, and its value against the U.S. dollar was cut in half every 2 days). The payment of goods and services in Zimbabwe is thus now only in foreign currencies, including the U.S. dollar, euro, pound, South African Rand, and Botswana Pula.

Tipping Point -- In South Africa, you should exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at the airport ATM. Aside from ATMs, for the most favorable rates, change money at banks rather than hotel or exchange bureaus. If you are a U.S. visitor, bring dollars in small denominations for tips in Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia; if you are a non-U.S. visitor, think about changing some money into the highly valued U.S. dollar, again in low denominations, for tips and trinkets from roadside vendors before you leave home, as you will otherwise be obliged to change your currency into the local currency.

ATMs

ATMs (or cashpoints) offering 24-hour service are located throughout South Africa, even in small towns. (Obviously, this does not apply to lodges in remote locations, such as nature reserves, with the exception of Skukuza Rest Camp in Kruger.) It is not worth drawing money from an ATM in Zimbabwe . Be warned that while travelers can withdraw money (in local currency) from ATMs in Zambia, banks often lose their connections with the credit card exchanges, thus making withdrawals impossible. You will find ATMs only in major towns in Botswana, and they accept only Visa.

Please be wary when drawing cash -- don't be distracted by strangers, and make sure they keep their distance. Most ATMs in cities are guarded at night, but it's better to draw in daylight. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. This is important, as a Visa card's PIN (personal identification number) will not apply at a MasterCard-accredited ATM, and vice versa (Visa accepts only a four-digit PIN, while MasterCard accepts a five- or six-digit PIN). Be sure you know your PIN and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. The exchange rate may also be unfavorable (as is the case in Zimbabwe, where the exchange rate is based on the official interbank rate, which is extremely low). If you're concerned about international withdrawal fees, ask your bank before you leave.

Credit Cards

Credit cards, for use at ATMs and virtually any retailer in southern Africa, are the most convenient way to carry money in the region. They also provide a record of all your expenses and generally offer relatively good exchange rates. (Keep in mind that many banks now assess a "transaction fee" of around 1%-3% on all charges you incur abroad. And you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time, so try to settle your account immediately on return.) With the proper precautions , credit cards that require a PIN are also the safest way to carry money. Just don't let your card out of your sight, as the use of card skimmers and cloning devices, mainly employed by organized criminal syndicates, has dramatically increased in heavily touristed areas such as airport restaurants and Cape Town's Waterfront. The new generation of card skimmers are smaller than the card itself, and it takes a fraction of a second to clone a card. A server can swipe your card through a skimmer concealed in his or her hand while you are distracted by signing the authorization slip. If you are at a restaurant, always request that a tabletop portable pay point be delivered to your seat. If they don't have this facility, follow your server to the pay point. Once your card has been swiped, immediately take it back into your possession.

If you have only an American Express, MasterCard, and/or Diners Club card, it's worth opening a Visa account, as this is by far the most accepted choice in Southern Africa (many lodgings in Zimbabwe won't accept MasterCard). Camps in remote areas do not always have credit card facilities, but in all likelihood, you will be booking and paying for these all-inclusive experiences ahead of time. For the most part, you'll find credit cards to be invaluable. (Debit cards are also useful as a back-up for drawing cash from ATMs.)

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are somewhat redundant in South Africa -- and useless in Zimbabwe, where banks rarely accept traveler's checks for conversion to local currency. As mentioned above, credit cards are generally accepted throughout southern Africa, particularly MasterCard and Visa, and both credit and debit cards are an easy way to draw cash at ATMs everywhere but Zimbabwe, where the ATM exchange rate is based on the official interbank rate, which is extremely low.

Those who nevertheless prefer carrying traveler's checks can buy them at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $10, $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000; you can also purchase them in South African rands, though it's inadvisable, given the fluctuating exchange rate, usually in favor of the dollar. You'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling tel. 800/221-7282; by using this number, Amex gold and platinum cardholders are exempt from the fee. AAA members can obtain checks without a fee at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

While the legislation here is not the world's most sophisticated, it now demands that travelers with disabilities be taken into account. Great strides have been made at tourism facilities; many lodgings provide wheelchair-accessible and comfortable en-suite rooms. Plenty, however, are entirely unsuitable, and it may be easiest to join a tour provided by an operator that specializes in wheelchair travel and inspects every facility for your comfort. One such group is www.rollingsa.co.za, specializing in small group tours throughout South Africa; the reputable www.flamingotours.co.za, personally run by Jeff and Pam Taylor, offers trips tailored to clients' specific needs, interests, and budget. Adventure lovers should contact South African Bernard Goosen, who was an accountant until he climbed Kilimanjaro in a modified wheelchair, becoming the first person in the world to do so. After many requests for talks after this momentous achievement, Bernard now works full-time on motivational and team building, as well as assisting individuals, both able and disabled, to fulfill their dreams and experience the things that they never thought possible. His company, Get Motivated, has put together specially designed outings and is able to hire out "off-road" wheelchairs. Contact him at bern@getmotivated.co.za, or call tel. 27/83/648-7770. If you plan to travel with friends rather than join a group, Johannesburg-based Mobility One (tel. 27/11/892-0638; www.mobilityone.co.za) rents wheelchairs and scooters; they will deliver to the airport or hotel. For more information, contact the National Council for Persons with Physical Disabilities in South Africa (ncppdsa@cis.co.za).

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The country code for South Africa is 27, for Zambia 260, for Zimbabwe 263, for Botswana 267. Regional codes in South Africa: Cape Town/Western Cape is 021, Johannesburg is 011, Pretoria is 012, Durban/Kwa-Zulu Natal is 031, Eastern Cape is 041.

Automobile Organizations -- For South African road conditions and route planning, call the Travel Information Centre (tel. 27/11/799-14 00; aasa@aasa.co.za; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm). For breakdowns, dial tel. 083-843-22.

Electricity -- Electricity in South Africa, Botswana, and Zambia is 230 volts, alternating at 50 cycles per second. Electrical sockets in Zimbabwe usually supply at between 220 and 240 volts AC.

Embassies & Consulates -- South Africa in the U.S.: 3051 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/232-4400; http://usaembassy.southafrica.net). In Canada: 15 Sussex Dr., Ottawa, ON, K1M 1M8 (tel. 613/744-0330; fax 613/741-1639; www.DocuWeb.ca/SouthAfrica). In the U.K.: South Africa House, Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DP (tel. 020/7451-7299; fax 020/7451-7284; www.southafricahouse.com). In Australia: Corner State Circle and Rhodes Place, Yarralumla ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6273-2424, -25, -26, -27; fax 02/6273-3543; www.rsa.emb.gov.au).

Zambia in the U.S.: 2419 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC (tel. 202/265-9717). In the U.K.: 2 Palace Gate, Kensington, London W8 5NG (tel. 020/7589-6655; fax 020/7581-1353).

Zimbabwe in the U.S.: 1608 New Hampshire NW, Washington, DC 20009 (tel. 202/332-7100). In Canada: 332 Somerset St. West, Ottawa, ON, K2P 0J9 (tel. 613/237-4388; fax 613/563-8269; www.DocuWeb.ca/Zimbabwe). In the U.K.: 429 Strand, London WC2R 0QE (tel. 020/7836-7755; fax 020/7379-1167; http://ukinzimbabwe.fco.gov.uk/en/). In Australia: 11 Culgoa Circuit, O'Malley ACT 2606 (tel. 02/6286-2281; fax 02/6290-1680).

Botswana in the U.S.: 1531-1533 New Hampshire Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/244-4990, -91; fax 202/244-4164). In the U.K.: 6 Stratford Place, London W1C 1AY (tel. 020/7499-0031; fax 020/7495-8595). In Australia: 52 Culgoa Circuit, O'Malley ACT 2606 (tel. 02/6290-7500; fax 02/6286-2566).

Embassies or Consulates in South Africa: U.S. Embassy: 877 Pretorius Street Arcadia, in Pretoria (tel. 27/12/342-1048; fax 27/12/342-5504; http://southafrica.usembassy.gov). Consulates: No. 1 River St. (corner of River and Riviera roads), Killarney, Johannesburg (tel. 27/11/644-8000; fax 27/11/646-6916); Broadway Industries Center, Heerengracht, Foreshore (tel. 27/21/421-4280; fax 27/21/425-3014); Old Mutual Building, 31st floor, 303 West St. (tel. 27/31/305-7600; fax 27/31/305-7691). Canadian Embassy: 1103 Arcadia St., Hatfield, Pretoria 0083 (tel. 27/12/422-3000; fax 27/12/422-3052; U.K. Embassy: 255 Hill St., Arcadia 0002, Pretoria (tel. 27/12/483-1200; fax 27/12/483-1302; http://ukinsouthafrica.fco.gov.uk/en/). Australian Embassy: 292 Orient St., Arcadia, Pretoria 0083 (tel. 27/12/342-3740; www.australia.co.za).

Emergencies -- South Africa: tel. 10177 ambulance, tel. 10111 police and fire, tel. 112 cellphone.

In Zambia: tel. 999 police, tel. 991 medical, tel. 993 fire; tel. 112 from mobiles.

In Zimbabwe: tel. 999 for police, medical emergency, and fire.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and most museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day); March 21 (Human Rights Day); Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday; April 27 (Founders/Freedom Day); May 1 (Workers Day); June 16 (Soweto/Youth Day); August 9 (Women's Day); September 24 (Heritage Day); December 16 (Day of Reconciliation); Christmas Day; and December 26 (Boxing Day).

Hospitals -- See www.netcare.co.za, a collection of top private clinics throughout South Africa.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Legal Aid -- If you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If you're accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call your embassy or consulate.

Mail -- You can post postcards and letters through your hotel, and they will invariably reach their destination. If you wish to post a parcel however, it is worth registering it (thereby getting a tracking number) at any local post office, or sending it with FedEx or UPS. Include zip codes when mailing items.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The weekly Mail & Guardian (www.mg.co.za) is one of the most intelligent papers and comes out every Friday, with a comprehensive entertainment section. Local papers include the Star and the Sowetan, in Johannesburg; the Cape Times and Argus, in Cape Town; the Natal Mercury, in Durban; and the Eastern Province Herald, in Port Elizabeth. Business Day is South Africa's (very slim) version of the Wall Street Journal or Financial Times. Getaway (www.getawaytoafrica.com) is an excellent monthly travel magazine that covers destinations throughout Africa.

Police -- South Africa: tel. 10111 or tel. 112 from mobile phones (soon also from fixed line phones).

Smoking -- Smoking is not permitted in public enclosed places. Some restaurants have partitioned areas for smokers.

Taxes -- South Africa levies a 14% value-added tax (VAT) on most goods and services -- make sure this is included in any quoted price (by law, items must be marked as clearly excluding VAT or having VAT included). Foreign visitors are not exempt for paying VAT on purchased goods. They may, however, claim back VAT paid on items taken out of the country when the total value exceeds R250. The refund may be lodged by presenting the tax invoice (make sure it has a VAT registration number on it) together with their passport to the VAT Refund Administrator's offices, which are situated at Johannesburg and Cape Town International Airports, as well as at visitor bureaus. Call tel. 021/934-8675 to find locations and hours.

Useful Telephone Numbers -- In South Africa, call directory assistance at tel. 1023 for numbers in South Africa and tel. 0903 for international numbers. Computicket (tel. 27/11/340-8000 in Johannesburg; tel. 27/83/915-8000 in Cape Town and Durban) is a free national booking service that covers cinema and concert seats, as well as intercity bus tickets; payment can be made over the phone by credit card.

Time -- Southern Africa is 2 hours ahead of GMT (that is, 7 hr. ahead of Eastern Standard Time).

Tipping -- Add 10% to 20% to your restaurant bill, 10% to your taxi. Porters get around R5 per bag. There are no self-serve garages or gas stations; when filling up with fuel, tip the person around R2 to R5; this is also what you tip informal car guards (identified by their neon bib) who look after cars on the street. It's also worth leaving some money for the person cleaning your hotel room. Be generous if you feel the service warrants it -- this is one of the best ways to alleviate the poverty you may find distressing.

Visitor Information -- South Africa -- South African Tourism (www.southafrica.net or www.southafrica.info).

In the U.S. -- 500 Fifth Ave., 20th Floor, Ste. 2040, New York, NY 10110 (tel. 212/730-2929; info.us@southafrica.net). Brochure line tel. 800/593-1318. Los Angeles office tel. 310/407-8642.

In Canada -- 4117 Lawrence Ave. E., Ste. 2, Ontario M1E 2S2 (tel. 0416/966-4059).

In the U.K. -- 6 Alt Grove, London SW19 4DZ (tel. 020/8971-9350; info.uk@southafrica.net). Brochure line tel. 0870/1550044.

In Australia -- 117 York St., Ste. 301, Level 3, Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02-9261-5000; info.au@southafrica.net). Brochure line tel. 800/238-643.

Useful websites include www.southafrica.net, www.southafrica.org, www.getawaytoafrica.co.za, and www.mg.co.za, the home page for the Mail & Guardian, South Africa's best national weekly newspaper.

Water -- South African tap water is safe to drink in all cities and most rural areas. Always ask in game reserves.

Weather -- See www.weathersa.co.za or call tel. 082-162.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Tourism is big business. According to the World Tourism Organization, the world's largest and fastest-growing industry generated $856 billion in revenue in 2007, with 903 million international arrivals recorded -- 100 million more people than in 2006. By 2020, the forecast is 1.6 billion. That's a lot of people tramping around our increasingly fragile planet. Faced with the long-term costs associated with this kind of rapacious growth, "responsible tourism" has become the 21st-century tourism buzz phrase, and recent years have seen a rash of new awards recognizing properties and operators making an effort to do the right thing. Even mainstream tourism has taken elements of this on board -- though one cannot help suspecting that discreetly placed signs asking you to reuse your towels are geared more toward conserving laundry costs than the environment, or wondering just how big that percentage of profits donated to local schools really is.

Ironically, the seeds of global eco-tourism were laid in Africa's "nature" tourism. During the 20th century, vast areas, such as the Kruger, were unilaterally set aside for conservation, and local inhabitants were often forcibly removed to make way for reservation areas. This left tourism regions ring-fenced by communities, unable to graze herds, hunt, or forage for building materials and food. As human developments grew, problems were exacerbated. Such forward-thinking pioneers as the Varty brothers in Londolozi and the founders of Wilderness Safaris in Botswana realized that a different approach was called for, and pioneering partnerships between the government, private business, and locals were forged. With a proportion of "safari tourism" revenue now plowed into both wildlife protection and local community development, responsible tourism was born. As revenue grew out of ground-breaking rehabilitation projects such as Phinda in KwaZulu-Natal, where degraded farmland was slowly returned to its original pristine state, others followed suit, particularly in the Eastern Cape.

In 1996, South Africa became the first in the world to adopt responsible tourism as an official policy, and the 2002 Cape Town Declaration, basis for the international World Responsible Tourism awards, was formulated in accordance with this policy, as were the Imvelo Awards, Africa's Responsible Tourism awards (for past winners, visit www.imveloawards.co.za). South Africa is also the only country in the world to have a "fair trade" label for its tourism products. To find accredited operators as well as places to stay (and various links providing tips on how to become a responsible traveler), visit www.fairtourismsa.org.za. Note that the accreditation is stiff (and rather pricy), with stringent criteria including fair wages, working conditions, distribution of benefits, and so on. For more ideas on how to green your vacation, visit www.icrtourismsa.org, the website for the International Centre for Responsible Tourism South Africa.

Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa -- Adding to a long string of achievements (including a highly commended recognition for their Damaraland Camp in the International Responsible Tourism Awards), Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com) clinched a win at the Imvelo Awards for Responsible Tourism with their Skeleton Coast Camp in 2008, winning the category Best Overall Environmental Management System. Their Kalamu Camp, in Zambia, was also highly commended in the category Best Single Resource Management Programme -- Energy.

Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa -- Committed to Fair Trade Tourism principles, Tswalu (www.tswalu.com) rehabilitated 38 overgrazed cattle farms and turned them into the largest privately owned reserve in southern Africa, restocking it with game, including the endangered wild dog, rhino, and cheetah. Hence, it receives continued international applause, including Condé Nast Traveler's World Savers Award and the Relais & Châteaux Global Environmental Trophy.

Madikwe Game Reserve -- Like Tswalu, Madikwe (www.madikwe.info) was once kilometers of overgrazed farmland until it was transformed in 1991 into a 75,000-hectare (185,250-acre) reserve, South Africa's fourth largest. Within a period of 6 years, some 10,000 animals were again roaming the plains in what was dubbed Operation Phoenix, the largest game translocation in the world. Book at Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge, the first wholly owned community safari lodge to be developed in South Africa, or Thakadu River Camp -- also owned by the local community.

&Beyond, Africa -- Besides rehabilitating 23,000 hectares (56,810 acres) and introducing game to severely degraded farmland in Kwazulu Natal and creating Phinda private reserve, &Beyond (née CCAfrica) has done sterling work with the Africa Foundation, an organization founded to facilitate the development of people living in or adjacent to protected areas. In 14 years of operation, it has raised and committed over $6 million to consultative community development projects and was awarded the Condé Nast Traveler World Savers Award in 2009.

Ant's Hill, Waterberg -- From waste disposal to water recycling, sourcing locally produced food and energy management, these Waterberg bush villas (www.waterberg.net) are model eco-lodges. They were awarded four stars in this year's Eco Hotels of the World competition, one of only two southern African destinations to be included (the other being the charming Hog Hollow Country Lodge in the Crags, near Plettenberg Bay).

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for South Africa listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry, and all operators featured on the site have met the company's strict membership criteria. They also cosponsor the international Responsible Tourism Awards (nominated by tourists who recognize individuals, companies, and organizations in the travel industry who make a difference). Winners are announced every November on WTM World Responsible Tourism Day. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) also promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world; Greenstop (www.greenstop.net) is another, providing an "eco-worthiness" audit for every entry.

Entry Requirements

Passports

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. Websites listed provide downloadable passport applications and list the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

Visas

Citizens of the United States, the E.U., the U.K., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport and return ticket for a 90-day stay in South Africa. Upon entering S.A., you will automatically be given a free entry permit sticker. However, please note that under South Africa's Immigration Act of 2002, the passport must contain at least one unused page for endorsements. Visitors wanting to stay for a longer period will have to apply formally for a visa, as opposed to relying on the automatic entry permit. For more information, visit the South African Home Affairs Department website at http://home-affairs.pwv.gov.za.

To enter Botswana, a passport valid for 6 months, sufficient funds to finance your stay, and outgoing travel documents are required. Holders of U.S., Commonwealth, and most European passports do not require visas.

To enter Zimbabwe, U.S., Canadian, Australian, and New Zealand citizens are issued visas on arrival for US$30 (£15) single entry and US$45(£23) for multiple entry. All visitors require tickets of return or onward travel as well as sufficient funds to support their stay. Note that visa fees are subject to frequent changes due to diplomatic unease between the Zimbabwe government and many other states. You can also obtain your visa in advance for an additional fee, which will reduce the amount of time you need to spend at any border post; consult your travel agent in this regard or use Travel Document Systems, 925 15th St. NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20005 (tel. 202/638/3800; www.traveldocs.com).

A multiple-entry Zambian visa now costs U.S. visitors US$100 if purchased in advance from the embassy or at the point of entry; £45 if you are a U.K. citizen. You can avoid this, however, by booking in advance with an established travel operator or hotel/lodge located in Zambia; the operator or lodge should be able to arrange a "waived fee" visa for Zambia, provided your passport information is sent through at least 28 days prior to travel, you are arriving through Vic Falls, Kazungula, or Livingstone, spending at least 1 night in the Livingstone area, and not staying in the country longer than 14 days.

Note that day visitors to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls from Zimbabwe can purchase a US$10 (£5) day visa at the bridge.

Staying Connected

Landlines are reliable, and cellphone reception is good for most parts of South Africa, though it's worth letting go while on safari.

To call southern Africa from another country: Dial the international access code (United States or Canada 011, United Kingdom or New Zealand 00, Australia 0011) plus the country code (the country code for South Africa is 27; for Zimbabwe, it is 263; for Botswana, it is 267), plus the local region code (minus the 0) and the number.

To make an international call from South Africa: Dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), the area code, and the local number.

To charge international calls from South Africa: Dial AT&T Direct (tel. 0-800-99-0123), Sprint (tel. 0800-99-0001), or MCI (tel. 0800-99-0011).

To make a local call: If you have a number with the country code, you will need to drop the country code and add a zero (0) to the city code (except in Botswana, which has no city codes). In South Africa, you now have to dial the city or region code (for example, 012) before every Cape Town number. Note also that if you are using a mobile phone, you always need to enter the network code before the telephone number; codes 082, 083, 084, 072, 073, and 074 are mobile or cell numbers, and these codes must also not be dropped.

Looking for a number: In South Africa: Call directory assistance at tel. 1023 for numbers in South Africa, and tel. 0903 for international numbers. To track down a service, call tel. 10118. Be patient, speak slowly, and check spellings with your operator. Because hotels often charge a massive markup, it's worth using a cellphone or purchasing a telephone card for international calls -- these card-operated pay phones are also often the only ones working. Cards are available from post offices and most newsagents, and come in units of R20, R50, R100, and R200.

Cellphones

Most South Africans, regardless of race or class, carry a cellphone; reception is generally excellent. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a world-capable multiband phone, simply call your wireless operator and ask for international roaming to be activated on your account. Note, though, that per-minute charges can be very high -- if you plan to use your phone a lot (and incoming calls are equally expensive), it's definitely worth purchasing a local SIM card, which costs between R1 and R20, depending on where and when you buy it, and purchasing pay-as-you-go airtime (available in bundled minutes that cost upward of R20). You will find retailers selling SIM cards and airtime throughout metropolitan areas; look for signs pasted on shop windows or inquire at small general dealer shops. For many, renting a phone is a good idea; you can do this (as well as purchase a SIM card and airtime) at a Vodafone outlet at any of the international airports in South Africa. Vodacom has 24-hour desks at all major international airports, as well as desks in big malls (such as the Waterfront in Cape Town), with a range of mobile phones to purchase or rent.

Internet & E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- There are literally thousands of cybercafes throughout South Africa's urban areas -- anywhere you find travelers. Aside from these, virtually all lodgings will have a computer on which you can access your mail or surf the Internet, either for free or for a small fee. The same goes for hotels, though many of them still charge for this, a real irritant (we have indicated fees where possible). Information bureaus in cities also provide Internet access, as do major airports. Internet access is less predictable while on safari and, frankly, counterproductive to the experience. For what will, after all, be a relatively limited time, we suggest you let everyone know that you will be out of reach, switch off all forms of 21st-century technology, and immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of the bush.

With Your Own Computer -- Large hotels, resorts, and airports in South Africa offer Wi-Fi access, charging a small fee (you pay online, using your credit card) for usage. For free Wi-Fi access in South Africa, take a look at who has joined www.redbutton.co.za (click on "Sites"). These hotels, guest lodges, restaurants, and cafes (the vast majority of them in the Cape) all offer free Wi-Fi -- unlimited or limited, from 5MB to 100MB per day. There are other establishments that offer free Wi-Fi, such as the delightful Café Neo in Cape Town (great food, plus a sea view). Others charge a small fee, such as the Vida e Caffe chain (www.caffe.co.za; click on "Stores" to find one near you); though it's a franchise, the coffee is still good. You may also want to check out www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots. For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems; if you do not have Wi-Fi capacity, remember to bring a connection kit of the right power, phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Getting There

By Plane

Johannesburg's International Airport, now known as OR Tambo International Airport (JNB), and Cape Town International (CPT) are the major airport hubs in Southern Africa. While it has a vibrant energy, Jo'burg is very much a transit city, and its airport is the busiest in Africa; if you can avoid flying into Johannesburg, do so. By contrast, Cape Town, a destination city, has a far smaller airport (though it's in the process of being transformed for 2010) and a dinky, manageable size, by comparison. Both of these airports offer direct connections into regional airports adjoining Kruger National Park and surrounding private game reserves (quite a few lodges have their own airstrips); to Durban in KwaZulu-Natal (a 3-hr. drive from the Zululand reserves); and to George and Port Elizabeth, the exit or start of a Garden Route trip. Port Elizabeth is also within easy driving distance of the malaria-free Eastern Cape game reserves.

To add Botswana to a trip to South Africa, you will have to fly via Maun, gateway to the Okavango, or Kasane, gateway to Chobe, both reached from Johannesburg (or Cape Town via Johannesburg). Note that Vic Falls can be reached by road from Kasane. Alternatively, fly from Johannesburg to Livingstone, the Zambian town nearest the falls, or to Victoria Falls Airport in Zimbabwe.

From the U.S. -- There are two direct flights to South Africa. Star Alliance member South African Airways (SAA; tel. 800/722-9675; www.flysaa.com) departs from New York (JFK) at 11:35am and arrives in Johannesburg the next morning at 8:45am, then provides same-day connections to more business and leisure destinations throughout Africa, including Botswana. Delta Air Lines (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) launched their daily nonstop flight between Johannesburg and Atlanta in June 2009. The flight departs Atlanta at 8:05pm and arrives in Johannesburg at 5:10pm the next day. From Chicago, New York, L.A., Miami, San Francisco, or Washington, D.C., you can fly via a European capital with a European carrier such as Air France (stopping in Paris), Lufthansa (stopping in Frankfurt), KLM (stopping in Amsterdam), and so on. Do take a look at British Airways and Virgin. Both stop in London and offer a relatively smooth operation, and connection times are usually no longer than an hour before flights continue on to Johannesburg or direct to Cape Town.

From the United Kingdom -- This is an 11-hour (Jo'burg) to 11 1/2-hour (Cape Town) flight, but with an hour-long time difference (2 hr. during daylight saving) and no jet lag, because the travel is north to south. SAA (tel. 0171/312-5005; www.flysaa.com), British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-8297] or 0181/897-4000; www.british-airways.com), and Virgin Air (tel. 800/862-8621; www.virgin-atlantic.com) offer direct flights to both Johannesburg and Cape Town. Alternatively, as above, check out any of the European carriers.

From Australia & New Zealand -- Contact SAA (tel. 02/9223-4448) or Qantas (tel. 13-13-13; www.qantas.com.au). Qantas offers direct flights from Sydney to Johannesburg, and South African Airways offers direct flights from Perth. Flying time is approximately 14 to 15 hours from Sydney and 10 to 11 hours from Perth.

To Zimbabwe -- The easiest way to get to Victoria Falls is to fly to Livingstone (LVI), in Zambia, or Victoria Falls International airport (VFA), Zimbabwe, from Johannesburg; the flight takes under 2 hours. Contact either SAA (www.flysaa.com) or British Airways/ComAir (www.british-airways.com). Victoria Falls is not far by road from Kasane, in Botswana; Kasane is accessible via Air Botswana .

To Botswana -- To reach the Okavango Delta, you'll need to fly to Maun (MUB) via Johannesburg on Air Botswana (tel. 267/395-1921; fax 267/395-3928 in Botswana; tel. 27/11/975-3070 in Johannesburg; www.airbotswana.co.bw). Air Botswana, still state-owned at press time, is looking for an investment partner; until such time, it is notoriously difficult to book online e-ticketing with this airline. The toll-free number in the U.S. and Canada is tel. 800/518-7781, where it's marketed through Air World Incorporated. In the U.K., call Flight Directors (tel. 44/845/838-7943). Air Botswana also flies from Johannesburg to Kasane (ideal to reach the Chobe reserve), from Maun to Kasane, and from Kasane to Victoria Falls.

In the unlikely event that you will want to visit Gaborone, the capital, Air Botswana also flies from Johannesburg to Sir Seretse Khama International (tel. 267/395-1921), as do SAA and British Airways.

From Maun, you will board a light aircraft, chartered by the camp you have booked. Note that strict luggage restrictions currently apply: 10 to 12kg (22-25 lb.), preferably packed in soft bags. Charter prices vary, so be sure to compare the following companies' prices for the best deal: Sefofane (tel. 267/686-0778; www.sefofane.com) is recommended; alternatively, there's Mack Air (tel. 267/686-0675; www.mackair.co.bw) and Delta Air (tel. 267/686-0044; DeltaAir@AirBotswana.com), a division of Air Botswana.

By Boat

Cape Town features on a number of luxury liner world cruise itineraries, but getting here this way takes plenty of time and money, and, naturally, your experience of Southern Africa will be somewhat limited. However, if this has always been a dream vacation, book with the best, and take a look at www.cunard.com or www.crystalcruises.com.

Calendar of Events

A comprehensive list of events throughout South Africa can be found at www.sa-venues.com/events -- even the smallest of festivals, as well as the dates -- useful to know even if you don't want to participate in festival gatherings, as parking and accommodation can become more problematic. For a more broad-based yet specialist look at the South African calendar, take a look at the official website www.southafrica.net; choose the country "South Africa," then and click on any of the themed options (green season, beach, floral, adventure activities, and so on). For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Cape Minstrels Carnival, Cape Town. Festive Cape Malay or "coloured" groups compete and parade, dressed in colorful outfits, through the city's streets, singing and jiving to banjo beats. Several days in January.

Spier Arts Festival, Spier Estate, Stellenbosch, Winelands. The Western Cape's premier arts festival features local and international opera, classical music, comedy, jazz, and drama at the Spier Amphitheatre. January to March.

Shakespeare Open Air Festival, Maynardville, Wynberg, Cape Town. Pack a picnic to enjoy this annual Shakespeare play performed in the Maynardville Gardens. Mid-January.

Duzi Canoe Race, Pietermaritzburg, KwaZulu-Natal. The country's most prestigious canoeing event covers the 115km (71 miles) between Pietermaritzburg and Durban. Late January.

J&B Metropolitan Horse Race, Kenilworth Race Course, Cape Town. The Western Cape's premier horse-racing event is Cape Town's excuse to party, and it attracts many of the city's socialites. Last Saturday in January or first in February.

South Africa Open, new venue every year. South Africa's golfing greats battle it out on one of the country's premier courses. Mid- or late January.

February

Sangoma Khekheke's Annual Snake Dance, Zululand, KwaZulu-Natal. Some 6,000 to 8,000 Zulus gather to slaughter cattle and dance under the auspices of Sangoma Khekheke. Late February.

Dance Umbrella, various venues, Johannesburg. A platform for the best contemporary choreography and dance in South Africa. Mid-February to mid-March.

Design Indaba Cape Town, Cape Town. At South Africa's premier design event, a host of international talent addresses the main conference (usually sold out), and South Africa's most talented designers hawk their wares at the Expo. It's a must for anyone looking for retail inspiration, or simply wanting to go home with a rare one-off design piece.

March

Cape Argus Cycle Tour, Cape Town. The largest of its kind in the world, this race attracts some 30,000 cyclists from around the world and covers 105km (65 miles) of Cape Town's most scenic routes. Second Sunday of March.

Cape Town International Jazz Festival, Cape Town. The best local jazz talent, joined by international greats (often including a great lineup from all over Africa), perform for enthusiastic audiences for 2 days; go to www.capetownjazzfest.com. Late March.

Klein Karoo National Arts Festival, Oudtshoorn, Western Cape. Showcases the country's best; many productions (often in Afrikaans) premier here. Predominantly drama, as well as excellent dance and music acts. End of March or early April.

April

Two Oceans Marathon, Cape Town. This 56km (35-mile) scenic route attracts some 12,000 athletes. Easter Saturday.

May

Cape Times Waterfront Wine Festival, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town. Some 400 wines from 95 estates and wineries are represented, as well as a great selection of South Africa's finest cheeses -- this has got to be the easiest way to sample some of the culinary wonders of the Cape. Early May.

The Gourmet Festival, Cape Town. Sample the fare of the city's best chefs, with set menus aimed at the budget-conscious gourmand; take your pick from the participating restaurants on www.gourmetsa.com. Mid-May.

Prince Albert Olive Festival, Prince Albert. This 2-day festival in the rural hamlet of Prince Albert is a real treat -- a gathering of predominantly local people, unpretentious entertainment (care to join in the annual olive-pit-spitting championship?), and great food. May.

Franschhoek Literary Festival, Franschhoek. Thanks in part to the gorgeous surrounds -- Franschhoek is the Cape's most beautiful village, and the gourmet capital of the region -- this relative newcomer is already attracting some big names in literature.

June

Comrades Marathon, Pietermaritzburg, KwaZulu-Natal. More than 13,000 runners participate in this 89km (55-mile) race, which started in 1921. Mid-June.

Standard Bank National Arts Festival, Grahamstown, Eastern Cape. The largest arts festival in the Southern Hemisphere features performances from cutting-edge to classical. Pack warm woolies. Late June to early July.

July

Knysna Oyster Festival, Knysna, Garden Route, Western Cape. The festival encompasses the Forest Marathon, a mountain-bike cycling tour, a regatta, a golf championship, and flea markets. First Friday to second Saturday of July.

S.A. Fashion Week, Sandton Convention Centre, Johannesburg. A great showcase of the abundance of new Afro-centric design talent. Late July.

Mr. Price Pro Surfing Classic, Durban beachfront. This world-class watersports- and beach-related tournament includes what is still referred to as the Gunston 500, one of the world's premier surfing events. Mid- or late July.

The Sardine Run, Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. Every year the east coast of South Africa is host to the greatest dive show in the world, when some three billion sardines, followed by hundreds of predators, move from the cold Atlantic to the subtropical waters of the Indian Ocean -- a migration to rival that of the Serengeti.

August

Namaqualand Wild Flower Season, Western and Northern Cape. From mid-August on (sometimes later, depending on rain), the semiarid West Coast is transformed into a floral paradise, with more than 2,600 species in bloom. August to October.

Jomba! Contemporary Dance Experience, Durban, KwaZulu-Natal. A contemporary dance festival featuring the best of KwaZulu-Natal's considerable dance and choreography talent. Late August to early September.

September

Arts Alive International Festival, Johannesburg. This urban arts festival features local talent and international stars. Includes the Jazz on the Lake Concert held at Zoo Lake. Contact the Gauteng Tourism Authority (www.gauteng.net) for dates.

Whale Festival, Hermanus, Western Cape. The Whale Festival includes drama performances, an arts ramble, a crafts market, and whale-route lectures and tours. Late September to early October.

King Shaka Day Celebrations and the Zulu Kings Reed Dance, Zululand, KwaZulu-Natal. King Shaka Day sees all the Zulu heads, from Chief Buthelezi (leader of the IFP party) to Prince Gideon, dressed in full traditional gear, addressing their minions in a moving day celebrating Zulu traditions. Later in the month, some 15,000 Zulu maidens participate in the colorful Reed Dance, in which the king would traditionally choose a new wife. Prince Gideon, mindful of the AIDS crisis, uses the opportunity to address some of the issues affecting the nation today by abstaining from the tradition. Both events are highly recommended. Last week in September.

Out in Africa Gay & Lesbian Film Festival. A gay and lesbian film festival held each year in the major cities in South Africa covers the latest and best movies and documentaries available on the international circuit.

October

Shembe Celebrations, Zululand, KwaZulu-Natal. The prophet Shembe, the fourth successor of the first prophet, presides over a congregation of some 30,000 who gather to hear his words; Sunday, when Shembe leads the crowds into prayer-dancing, is the highlight. Last 3 weeks of October.

November

Turtle-tracking in Maputaland, Zululand, KwaZulu-Natal. Every year from November to January, the rare loggerhead and leatherback turtles return to the very beaches on which they were born, to nest and lay their eggs in the soft sands. The best place to witness this ancient ritual is at Rocktail Bay and Mabibi, both blessed with coral reefs and fabulous lodgings.

December

Mother City Queer Project, Cape Town. This masked costume ball features some 10 dance zones and costumed teams celebrating Cape Town's vibrant and creative gay culture. The best party of the year. Mid-December.

Million Dollar Golf Challenge, Sun City, North-West Province. This high-stakes tournament attracts the world's best golfers. Call Sun City at tel. 014/557-1544 for exact dates.

Appletiser Summer Sunset Concerts, Kirstenbosch Gardens, Cape Town. Start of the new season: Pack a picnic and get there by 4:30pm to grab a choice spot on the lawn before the concert starts at 5:30pm. Program runs to March.

Vortex New Year's Eve Rave Party, Grabouw, Cape Town surrounds. An almost weeklong nonstop camp-out party, where Cape Town's hippest hippies pay homage to the beat from dusk to dawn.

Health & Safety

Health Care Access

Visiting South Africa should pose no threat to your health: Private hospitals are efficient and the staff is of the highest caliber, hygiene is rarely a problem in tourist areas, tap water is safe, stomach upsets from food are rare, there are no weird tropical viruses, and medical assistance is generally always within a 10-minute to 2-hour drive. Procedures, particularly dental and plastic surgery, are so highly rated and relatively inexpensive that there is now a roaring trade in safari/surgery holidays. That said, there are a few things to watch out for, discussed below. Unless you're already covered by a health plan while you're abroad, it's probably a good idea to take out medical travel insurance, particularly if you're going to participate in adventure activities. Be sure to carry your identification card in your wallet. In the event of serious medical conditions in Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, every effort should be made to go to Johannesburg.

While you will find an excellent range of over-the-counter medicines in pharmacies, bring your own prescription medications as well as copies of your prescriptions, with the generic name, in case you lose your pills or run out. If you wear glasses or contact lenses, pack an extra pair.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (www.iamat.org) for up-to-date tips on travel health concerns, as well as lists of local, English-speaking doctors; of course, your local host or concierge will do same, and the reference is probably more reliable. You will find listings of clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org), though, personally, I'd go straight to www.netcare.co.za, a collection of top private clinics throughout South Africa, with listings of all their specialists in every region on the website, the Netcare Hospital they practice from, and their direct telephone number. For travel-specific queries, I'd look no further than www.travelclinic.co.za, also with branches throughout South Africa.

If you need more reassurance, the United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel-medicine practitioners, offers helpful advice on traveling abroad. Alternatively, bear the following in mind:

AIDS -- South Africa has more people living with AIDS than any other country in the world. If you're entering into sexual relations, use a condom. If you need medical treatment during your stay, there's no real risk that you'll contract the virus in the process. Even so, it's best to err on the side of caution and insist on treatment at a private hospital, if possible.

Bilharzia -- Do not swim in dams, ponds, or rivers unless they are recommended as bilharzia free. Symptoms are difficult to detect at first -- tiredness followed by abdominal pain and bloody urine or stools. But they can be effectively treated with praziquantel.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- You are unlikely to encounter snakes -- they are shy, and, with the exception of puff adders, they tend to move off when they sense humans approaching. If you get bitten, stay calm -- very few are fatal -- and get to a hospital. Scorpions and spiders are similarly timid, and most are totally harmless. To avoid them, shake out clothing that's been lying on the ground, and be careful when gathering firewood. If you're hiking through the bush, beware of ticks; tick-bite fever is very unpleasant, though you should recover in 4 days. To remove ticks, smear Vaseline over them until they let go. Visitors to the national parks and reserves should bear in mind at all times that they are in a wilderness area: Even animals that look cute are wild and should not be approached (this includes baboons, who will sometimes vandalize cars in search of food). If you're on a self-drive safari, make sure you get out of your vehicle only at designated sites. While most rest camps in the national parks are fenced for your protection, this is not the case with lodges and camps situated in private reserves: Animals, including such dangerous ones as hippos, lions, and elephants, roam right through them. After dark, it's essential that you seek accompaniment to and from your room by a guide. Even when you're in a safari vehicle on a game drive, your ranger will caution you not to stand up, make sudden or loud noises, or otherwise draw attention to yourself. Occasionally, the ranger may leave the vehicle to track game on foot; always remain seated in the vehicle. It is probably unnecessary to point out that lions and crocodiles are dangerous; however, hippos kill more humans in Africa than any other mammal, and you should take this seriously. Hippos may look harmlessly ponderous, but they can move amazingly fast and are absolutely lethal when provoked. Even some of the smaller animals should be treated with a great deal of respect: The honey badger is the most tenacious of adversaries, and even lions keep their distance from them. And of course, the most serious bite comes from a tiny female insect, known as the Anophele (mosquito).

Cholera -- There has been a big cholera outbreak in Zimbabwe, with more than 94,000 cases reported since August 2008. This has spread to the Lusaka district (Zambia) and northeastern province of Limpopo (S.A.), which border Zimbabwe. According to the UN, risk to travelers anywhere in Southern Africa is minimal, and the cholera vaccine is recommended for aid and refugee workers only.

Dietary Red Flags -- Vegetarians and others with special dietary requirements visiting game lodges and camps must let their hosts know well in advance; in fact, it is worth alerting any establishment serving dinner and/or lunch that you have dietary requirements well in advance. Note that many South Africans who describe themselves as "vegetarians" eat fish or chicken, so it's best to specify exactly what your requirements are. Outside the major cities, vegetarians may struggle to find restaurants that offer any kind of choice. Travelers with any kind of intolerance or allergy should impress upon servers the seriousness of their condition when inquiring about the ingredients in a particular dish.

Sun -- Remember that the sun doesn't have to be shining to burn you. Wear a broad-brimmed hat at all times, and apply a high-factor sunscreen or total block -- at least initially. Wear sunglasses that reduce both UVA and UVB rays substantially, and stay out of the sun between 11am and 3pm. Children should be kept well covered at the beach; it can take as little as 15 minutes for an infant's skin to develop third-degree burns.

Malaria: Frequently Asked Questions

Parts of northern KwaZulu-Natal, Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves, Zimbabwe, and Botswana are all high-risk malaria zones (transmitted only by the female mosquito, who requires blood to develop her eggs), though some areas become low-risk in the dry winter months (visit www.travelclinic.co.za for a map). Both Hluhluwe-Umfolozi (KwaZulu-Natal) and the Kruger are usually low-risk areas from May to September (generally, this means no medication is necessary, though other protective measures are advisable). Please note that this depends on the rainfall during the previous summer. Always check with a travel clinic or contact malaria@mweb.co.za. Another useful website is www.meditravel.co.za. Here are some commonly asked questions about malaria:

• Do I really need to take antimalarial drugs? -- If you are entering a high-risk zone for the first time, a course of antimalarial tablets (aka prophylactic), for which you will need a prescription, is essential. What is prescribed is dependent on your health profile, but Malarone (or Malanil, as it also known) is the most effective (98%) and has the fewest side effects. You have to take it only 1 day before entering a malarial area and continue the course for only 7 days after you leave the area. The downside is that it's quite expensive. Larium is 91% effective but has strong potential side effects and should be started 2 weeks prior to entering the area, to allow you to switch, if necessary (this should happen within 3 days). Side effects may include depression, anxiety, disorientation, dizziness, insomnia, strange dreams, nausea, or headaches; the principal contraindications are a history of anxiety, psychiatric problems, or epilepsy. If you've taken Larium before and suffered no side effects, you can start the course 1 week before. If you do suffer side effects, the medication is usually changed to an antibiotic containing Doxycycline -- a daily tablet taken 1 day before. Both Larium and Doxycycline need to be taken for 28 days after leaving the area -- and make sure to take your full course of tablets.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

South Africa has excellent doctors and specialists throughout the country; if you're not feeling well, let your host or concierge know and they will make an appointment with a reputable professional nearby. If you're unhappy with the diagnosis, get a second opinion, like elsewhere. In an emergency, you'd be better off going to a private hospital. There are plenty in urban centers (visit www.netcare.co.za), facilities are excellent, and you'll avoid a lengthy wait. It doesn't come cheap, though, and many expect to see proof of medical insurance.

Safety

Safety rules for travelers are the same as elsewhere in the world, though the high incidence of crime warrants extra caution in southern African cities. However, most cases occur in the townships and in areas away from the main tourist destinations. The South African authorities make it a high priority to protect tourists; tourism police are deployed in several of the large towns, and the vast majority of visitors complete their travels in South Africa without incident.

Crime -- Take care, however: Criminals operate out of the airport in Johannesburg; do not accept unsolicited assistance with transport when arriving at this airport. As a general rule, always be aware of the people around you, whether you're walking down a busy city street or driving through a deserted suburb. If you sense danger, act on your instincts. Don't flash expensive jewelry or fancy cameras or phones; wear handbag straps across the neck, and keep a good grip on items. Don't walk any of the major city-center streets after dark, especially if you're alone. Be on guard if you are alone on an empty beach or mountainside near urban areas; it's worth carrying a mobile phone on you at all times, with emergency numbers keyed in for easy access. Avoid no-go areas, such as Hillbrow and Berea, the inner-city suburbs of Johannesburg, and find out from your hotel or host how best to get where you're going and what's been happening on the streets recently. Finally, if you're confronted by an assailant, keep calm, don't make eye contact, don't resist in any way, and cooperate. Note also that pilfering of luggage at international airports is an increasing problem: Travelers are encouraged to secure their luggage with Transportation Security Administration (TSA)-approved locks; use an airport plastic wrapping service; and avoid placing electronics, jewelry, cameras, or other valuables in checked luggage.

With such widespread poverty, you will inevitably have to deal with beggars, some of them children. Money is often spent on alcohol or drugs; should you feel the need to make a difference, donate to a relevant charity. Some beggars offer services, such as watching your car while you shop or dine. There is no need to feel intimidated, and how much you decide to tip them is entirely personal, though with unemployment running as high as 40%, this is the best way to help the many who need the dignity of employment as much as your small change.

On the Road -- If you're used to civilized, law-abiding drivers, you'll find South African road manners leave a lot to be desired. Drunk driving can be a problem, so try to limit driving to daytime trips, and be extra aware of others when driving at night. When driving, keep your car doors locked, particularly in Johannesburg (it's a good idea to also lock your room, and don't open the door unless you're expecting someone or the person is known to you). Don't leave valuables in clear view in your car, even when you are in it. Do not pick up hitchhikers, and if you're on a self-drive holiday, hire or keep a cellphone with you. Call the Automobile Association of South Africa should you break down. Call the police should you feel nervous and wish for an escort or company. If you are at a remote site or beach, be aware of who is there when you approach the spot, and don't leave your car if you don't feel safe. Also be aware of suspicious persons approaching you at a remote site; again, a cellphone, with the correct emergency numbers on speed dial, is recommended for peace of mind.

Discrimination -- South Africa has come a long way since 1994 and, generally speaking, is home to some of the world's most politically sensitive communities. That said, you will still come across some die-hard racists and homophobes, usually (but by no means exclusively) outside of the urban areas. This should not be the case with any of our recommendations; if you encounter problems, let us know in writing and we'll take it up.