Planning a trip to South America

When to Go

South America is a huge continent (it crosses both the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn), and climatic conditions vary widely. In June, when it's freezing cold at the southern tip of Argentina, it's hot and humid in Venezuela. You can take into account, however, that more than 75% of the continent sits south of the Equator, which means that winter usually lasts from June through September and summer from December through March. In high-altitude cities, such as Quito, you can expect cool weather year-round; in the Amazon basin region -- in the center of the continent, from Ecuador to Brazil -- the weather is hot and humid year-round.

In general, the high season for travel in South America lasts from June through September, from mid-December through mid-January, and during Carnaval, which takes place the week before Ash Wednesday. The ski season in Chile and Argentina reaches its peak in July and August.

Holidays, Celebrations & Events

Many of the holidays and festivals in South America correspond to Catholic and indigenous celebrations. (Sometimes they are a mixture of both.) The entire continent seems to turn into one big party zone during Carnaval, usually in February or March. During the solstices and equinoxes, many indigenous groups, which historically have worshipped the sun, organize traditional celebrations throughout South America.

Calendar of Events

January

Fiesta de la Santa Tierra, Lake Titicaca (Peru). The main festival on Isla Amantaní sees the population split in two -- half at the Temple of Pachamama and the other half at the Temple of Pachatata, symbolizing the islanders' ancient dualistic belief system. Third Thursday in January.

February

Carnaval. The continent's liveliest Carnaval festivities are held in Argentina, Bolivia, Uruguay, and, most famously, Brazil. In Salta, Argentina, citizens throw a large parade, which includes caricatures of public officials and "water bomb" fights. In Oruro, Bolivia, Christian and indigenous myths and legends are woven into the fabric of the elaborate costumes and dances, which helped garner a UNESCO World Heritage rating in 2001. In Uruguay, Montevideo is the center for the main events, including parades, dance parties, and widespread debauchery. In Brazil, it's the party to end all parties -- all life comes to a halt for 4 days of nonstop singing, dancing, drinking, and general over-the-top merrymaking. Generally celebrated during the week before the start of Lent.

Festival of the Virgen de la Candelaria. Lively festivities are held in honor of one of the most beloved religious symbols in Bolivia and Peru. In Copacabana, Bolivia, the home of the Virgin, the celebration includes parades and dancing in the street. In Puno, Peru, it's one of the largest and most colorful folk religious festivals in the Americas, with abundant music and dance troupes, many in fantastic costumes and masks. February 2.

Festival de la Canción (Festival of Song), Viña del Mar, Chile. This gala showcases Latin American and international performers during a 5-day festival of concerts held in the city's outdoor amphitheater. The spectacle draws thousands of visitors to an already packed Viña del Mar, so plan your hotel reservations accordingly. Late February.

March

Argentina's Wine Harvest Festival, Mendoza, Argentina. Locally known as Vendimia, the country's celebration of wine, women, and song is centered around its wine capital Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes. Concerts, parades, street theater, and a hotly contested beauty contest take place throughout the month of February but culminate in a bacchanalian fest with fireworks and gaucho displays during the first week of March.

Iberamerican Film Festival, Bogotá, Colombia. One of the world's largest theater festivals (and South America's biggest) is held every 2 years from mid-March to early April in Bogotá. Over 520 theater companies from around the world are invited to participate.

April

Festival Internacional de Teatro (Caracas International Theater Festival). This festival brings together scores of troupes and companies from around the world and across Venezuela for a 2-week celebration of the theater arts. Performances are held in a variety of theaters (and a plethora of languages) around Caracas, as well as in the streets and plazas. Begun nearly 30 years ago, this is the premiere theater festival in Latin America. For more information, contact the Ateneo de Caracas (tel. 0212/573-4400). Early to mid-April.

Semana Santa, Uruguay. During Holy Week, Uruguay shuts down. In Montevideo and the smaller cities, you'll find gaucho-style barbecues all over the place. During this time, there are also parades, where you'll be able to hear local folk music. Wednesday through Friday before Easter.

May

Fiesta de la Cruz, Peru. The Festival of the Cross features folk music and dance, including "scissors dancers," and processions in which communities decorate crosses and prepare them for the procession to neighboring churches. The danzantes de tijeras (scissors dancers) recreate old times, when they performed on top of church bell towers. Today the objective is still to outdo one another with daring feats. Celebrations are especially lively in Lima, Cusco, and Ica. May 2 and 3.

June

Gaucho Parade, Salta, Argentina. The parade features music by folk artists and gauchos dressed in traditional red ponchos with black stripes, leather chaps, black boots, belts, and knives. June 16.

Septenario Festival (Corpus Christi), Cuenca, Ecuador. During this weeklong event, Cuenca is at its most festive. The streets around the main plaza are closed and a carnival atmosphere prevails with games, special food stalls, and nightly fireworks. Thousands of balloons are sent into the sky over the city on closing night. The exact date varies, but is usually mid-June.

Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun). This Inca Festival of the Sun -- the mother of all pre-Hispanic festivals -- celebrates the winter solstice and honors the sun god with traditional pageantry, parades, and dances. In Argentina, celebrations take place in towns throughout the northwest on the night before the solstice (around June 20). In Peru, it draws thousands of visitors who fill Cusco's hotels; the principal event takes place on June 24 at the Sacsayhuamán ruins and includes the sacrifice of a pair of llamas. General celebrations continue for several days. In Ecuador, Inti Raymi merges with the fiestas of San Pablo and San Juan to create one big holiday from June 24 to 29 in the Otavalo area.

July

Fiestas Patrias, Peru. A series of patriotic parties mark Peru's independence from Spain in 1821. Official parades and functions are augmented by cockfighting, bullfighting, and Peruvian Paso horse exhibitions in other towns. The best celebrations are in Cusco, Puno, Isla Taquile, and Lima. July 28 and 29.

August

Feria de las Flores, Medellín, Colombia. Likely the largest flower festival in the world, Medellín's biggest annual celebration includes a long list of events such as the Cavalgata de Caballos (Horse Parade), Desfile de Carros Antiguos (Antique Car Parade), and -- the most famous and well known -- the Desfile de Silleteros, where young and old come out to show-off their hand made silleteros, or flower designs, in an hours-long parade. This festival is one of a kind and excitement rivals that of Carnaval in Barranquilla or Cartagena. First week of August.

Independence Day, Bolivia. To celebrate this holiday, Bolivians flock to Sucre, where the leaders of the Bolivian independence movement signed the declaration of independence in 1825. For several days before and several days afterward, there are colorful parades, fireworks, and all sorts of celebrations here. If you can't make it to Sucre, you'll find people partying throughout the country, especially in Copacabana. August 6.

World Tango Championship, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Tango aficionados from all over the world converge on the Tangolopolis of Buenos Aires to strut their stuff and try to walk away with the coveted first-place prize. The less agile can watch or attend the hundreds of events scattered across the city celebrating Argentina's most valued cultural export.

September

Virgen del Valle, Isla de Margarita, Venezuela. The patron saint of sailors, fishermen, and all other seafarers is honored with street fairs and a colorful blessing of the fleet procession. September 8 to 15.

Independence Day and Armed Forces Day, Chile. Chile's rich cultural heritage comes to life with plenty of drinking, dancing, rodeos, and military parades. This holiday can stretch into a 3- to 4-day weekend, and the best place to witness celebrations is in the Central Valley south of Santiago. September 18 and 19.

October

El Señor de los Milagros (Lord of the Miracles), Lima, Peru. Lasting nearly 24 hours and involving tens of thousands of participants, many of whom are dressed in purple, this procession celebrates a Christ image painted by an Angolan slave that survived the 1746 earthquake and has since become the most venerated image in the capital. October 18.

November

All Souls' Day and Independence Day, Cuenca, Ecuador. The city celebrates both the Day of the Dead and its independence day with parties, art shows, parades, dances in the streets, and food festivals. November 2 and 3.

December

Santuranticuy Festival, Cusco, Peru. Hundreds of artisans sell traditional carved Nativity figures and saints' images at one of the largest handicrafts fairs in Peru in Cusco's Plaza de Armas. December 24.

New Year's Eve, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The Copacabana beach is ground zero for an event that attracts more than one million people. The roughly 10km (6 miles) of sand are jam-packed with New Year's revelers, and the entertainment never stops, with concerts and performances all night long leading up to the best fireworks display in the world. The evening is also an important one in the African Candomblé religion; it's the night to make an offering to the sea goddess Yemanjá. Candomblé followers, all dressed in white, offer small boats loaded with flowers, candles, mirrors, jewelry, and other pretty trinkets to the sea in a candlelit ceremony with music and dancing. The sight on the beach is truly spectacular. December 31.

Ferias de Cali, Cali, Colombia: Known as Colombia's hardest partying city, Cali really shows what it's made of during its famous ferias. For 2 long weeks each winter, the streets of Cali become a virtual party ground, full of street vendors, performers and merrymakers. Book your ticket in advance during this time because hotels fill up. Between late December and mid-January.

Entry Requirements & Customs

The below passport and visa information in this section is for quick reference.

Passports

A passport is required for entry to all South American countries covered in this book, though passport requirements vary by country. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525), or at most main post offices.

For residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

A visa is required for travel to Bolivia, Brazil, and Paraguay; all other countries in this book only require valid passports for short stays.

Customs

What You Can Bring Home -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure, available from Australian consulates or Customs offices, is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Medical Requirements

Of particular note are acute mountain sickness (AMS), or altitude sickness, in Andean countries, and the need for yellow-fever vaccinations for travel to Amazon jungle regions in Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and Brazil.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Most countries in South America are Catholic and conservative. However, in most large cities, there is a thriving underground gay community. To avoid offending local sensibilities or inviting possible verbal harassment in other parts of the continent, we recommend being discreet.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

For good, comprehensive information on the current situation in Ecuador, check out http://quito.queercity.info, the best English-language online resource for gay travelers to Ecuador, although the site is almost exclusively geared toward men. Ecuador Gay (tel. 02/2529-993; www.ecuadorgay.com) is a Quito-based travel agency geared specifically towards a gay and lesbian clientele, while Galápagos Traveller (tel. 877/829-9006 in the U.S. and Canada; www.galapagostraveller.com), is a recommended GLB-friendly Ecuadorian travel agency.

Tips on Accommodations

Upscale travelers are finally starting to get their due in South America. It has taken time, but spurred on by the example and standards of several international chains, and inspired by some award-winning local hotels, service and amenities have been improving across the board, particularly in the upscale market. The region's strong suit is still its moderately priced hotels, though. However, room size and quality vary quite a bit within this price range, so don't expect the kind of uniformity that you may find at home. Almost all the big hotels have free parking lots, while the smaller, budget hotels have street parking.

If you're budget- or bohemian-minded, you can find quite a few good deals for less than $50 a double. Note: Air-conditioning or central heating is not necessarily a given in many midrange hotels. In general, this is not a problem. A well-placed ceiling fan or heavy blankets are often more than enough to keep things pleasant, unless we mention otherwise in the hotel reviews. And although power outages aren't a regular issue anymore (at least in the region's cities), it is always wise to check out if your hotel has a backup generator in case things get uncomfortable.

Another welcome hotel trend in the area is the renovation and conversion of old homes or historic buildings into small hotels or B&Bs, known as hosterías or posadas. South America is still riding the ecotourism wave, and you'll find small nature-oriented ecolodges throughout the region, too. These lodges offer opportunities to see wildlife (including sloths, monkeys, and hundreds of species of birds) and learn about tropical forests, high deserts, or other remote wilderness areas. They range from spartan facilities catering primarily to scientific researchers, to luxury accommodations that are among the finest in the country. Keep in mind that although the nightly room rates at these lodges are often quite moderate, prices start to climb when you throw in transportation (often on chartered planes), guided excursions, and meals. Also, just because you can book a reservation at most of these lodges doesn't mean that they're not remote. Be sure to find out how you get to and from the eco-lodge, and what tours and services are included in your stay. Then think long and hard about whether you really want to put up with hot, humid weather; biting insects; rugged transportation; and strenuous hikes to see wildlife.

One uniquely South American lodging type that you might encounter is the apartotel, which is just what it sounds like: an apartment hotel where you'll get a full kitchen and one or two bedrooms, along with daily maid service. A posada or hostal (also called a hostería) is a small, usually family-run hotel, not unlike a B&B. If you're visiting an eco-lodge or hotel in any area near the jungle, most accommodations have either screened-in windows or provide mosquito nets. The exceptions are the bare-bones beach shacks along the coast and rustic huts in the jungle.

Hotels listed as expensive throughout this book often offer much cheaper rates for travelers booking through their websites. Your best bet throughout this region is negotiating directly with the hotels themselves, especially the smaller hotels. However, be aware that response times might be slower than you'd like, and many of the smaller hotels might have some trouble communicating back and forth in English. Rates quoted throughout the book reflect double occupancy, and differences between low- and high-season rates are noted wherever possible. (Note that there are some bargains to be had during the low season.)

Money

At one time or another, inflation has been a thorn in the economies of every South American nation. Because of this, many South American hotels quote their rates in dollars, and in some South American countries, dollars are widely accepted. (Throughout this guide, U.S. dollar rates are indicated with the "$.")

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash throughout South America is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the continent; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination..

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart -- you'll need a four-digit PIN throughout much of this region.

Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money throughout South America. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and, to a lesser extent, Diners Club are all commonly accepted in South America.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are hard to cash outside major South American cities, and even in those cities, you may still have problems doing so. Some travelers feel safer carrying a few traveler's checks just in case, though, and they can be bought at most banks in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee for checks up to $1,500 at most AAA offices, or by calling 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Tips for Women Travelers

Besides the general safety advice offered, women traveling alone in South America should have few problems. Yes, in many cultures here, men have a very macho attitude, and women traveling alone can expect to get intense stares, catcalls, or even be followed for a few blocks by men asking for a date. But for the most part, these men are harmless. A simple "Déjame en paz" ("Leave me alone") will send the message that you're not interested.

There have been sporadic, unconfirmed reports of tour guides attacking single women travelers. It's always worth it to pay a few extra dollars to arrange a tour with a reputable travel agency. Talk to your fellow travelers and find out if they have had any problems. If you are attacked, contact the police immediately and notify your embassy. Safety specialists at your embassy will be able to assist you and hopefully work with the police to track down the assailant.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Except for the most modern and upscale hotels in major cities, most buildings in South America are not well equipped for travelers with disabilities. Where elevators exist, they are often tiny. Many cities in South American streets are crowded and narrow. In the Andes, the high altitude and steep hills slow everyone down. Within individual reviews, you'll find information on ramps, door sizes, room sizes, bathrooms, and wheelchair availability.

A helpful website for accessible travel is Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com), which offers detailed destination articles on accessible travel in Peru and a wealth of specific information about Aguas Calientes, Chiclayo, Cusco, Huanchaco, Iquitos, Lima, the Chicama and Moche valleys, Pisac, Trujillo, and Yucay. Apumayo Expediciones (tel. 054/246-018; www.apumayo.com) is way out in front on accessible travel in Peru, offering tours specifically designed for travelers with physical disabilities.

Health & Insurance

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages.

For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Staying Healthy

For general information about health issues in South America, log on to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's website at www.cdc.gov/travel. The CDC advises visitors to South America to protect themselves against hepatitis A and B.

Medical Warning -- The U.S. State Department's Office of Medical Services warns people suffering from the following ailments to exercise caution when traveling to high-altitude destinations such as La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Cusco, and Machu Picchu: sickle cell anemia, heart disease (for men 45 or over or women 55 or over who have two of the following risk factors: hypertension, diabetes, cigarette smoking, or elevated cholesterol), lung disease, and anyone with asthma and on the maximum dosage of medication for daily maintenance, or anyone who has been hospitalized for asthma within a year of their intended trip. It's best to talk with your doctor before planning a trip to a high-altitude destination in South America.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/en/Policyandguidance/Healthadvicefortravellers
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to an European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Staying Safe

Millions of travelers visit South America without any problems. But as in any foreign destination, you should always keep your wits about you. Before you depart, check for travel advisories from the U.S. Department of State (www.travel.state.gov), the Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.voyage.gc.ca), the U.K. Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel), and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice).

Once you're there, keep some common-sense safety advice in mind: Stay alert and be aware of your surroundings; don't walk down dark, deserted streets; and always keep an eye on your personal belongings. Theft at airports and bus stations is not unheard of, so be sure to put a lock on your luggage.

Tips for Student Travelers

Although you won't find any discounts at the national parks, most museums and other attractions around South America do offer discounts for students. It always pays to ask.

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still 25 or younger, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

For general information about health issues in South America, log on to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's website at www.cdc.gov/travel. The CDC advises visitors to South America to protect themselves against hepatitis A and B.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Medical Warning -- The U.S. State Department's Office of Medical Services warns people suffering from the following ailments to exercise caution when traveling to high-altitude destinations such as La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Cusco, and Machu Picchu: sickle cell anemia, heart disease (for men 45 or over or women 55 or over who have two of the following risk factors: hypertension, diabetes, cigarette smoking, or elevated cholesterol), lung disease, and anyone with asthma and on the maximum dosage of medication for daily maintenance, or anyone who has been hospitalized for asthma within a year of their intended trip. It's best to talk with your doctor before planning a trip to a high-altitude destination in South America.

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. (Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S.) Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Healthy Travels to You

The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/en/Policyandguidance/Healthadvicefortravellers
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Staying Safe

Millions of travelers visit South America without any problems. But as in any foreign destination, you should always keep your wits about you. Before you depart, check for travel advisories from the U.S. Department of State (www.travel.state.gov), the Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.voyage.gc.ca), the U.K. Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel), the New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mfat.govt.nz), and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfat.gov.au).

Once you're there, keep some common-sense safety advice in mind: Stay alert and be aware of your surroundings; don't walk down dark, deserted streets; and always keep an eye on your personal belongings. Theft at airports and bus stations is not unheard of, so be sure to put a lock on your luggage.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Your best, cheapest bet for making international calls throughout South America is to head to any Internet cafe with an international calling option. These cafes have connections to Skype, Net2Phone, or some other VoIP service. International calls made this way can range anywhere from 5¢ to $1 per minute -- much cheaper than making direct international calls or using a phone card. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find an Internet cafe that provides a computer with a headset.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout South America. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across most of South America. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- typically $1-$3 per minute.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many South American nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Internet Access

More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hot spots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots throughout South America, go to www.jiwire.com; its Wi-Fi Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels in South America offer dataports for laptop modems, and a growing number offer free high-speed Internet access.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Where Are You @? -- The @ symbol is hard to find on a Latin American keyboard. You must keep your finger on the "Alt" key and then press "6" and "4" on the number pad to the right. If you're still unsuccessful and at an Internet cafe, ask the assistant to help you type an arroba.

Tips for Families

Family values are very important in South America, so if you're traveling with your entire family, you can expect locals to welcome you with open arms. Children are treated with the utmost respect. When you take your kids out to eat, the staff will shower them with attention and make special provisions if your kiddies aren't up to eating exotic food. Rice, potatoes, and chicken are on almost every menu, so you won't have to worry about looking for a McDonald's.

South America is also great for children because the wildlife-watching opportunities are tremendous. Bring your kids to the jungle, and they will be eternally grateful to you for letting them get close to caimans and monkeys. In the Galápagos, swimming with sea lions will be an experience that your children will not soon forget. It's also a good idea to teach your children some South American history before your trip. They will be more willing to visit old cathedrals and museums if they understand the value of what they're seeing.

Getting Around

In general, the roads in South America (excepting much of Chile) are often in very poor condition. But there is an enormous network of bus lines, and if you have the time and patience, you can travel easily by bus from one country to another. Because car-rental agencies don't allow cars to be taken across international borders, it's very difficult to drive around the continent. There is also no reliable international train service. All in all, flying makes a lot of sense, especially if you're short on time.

By Plane

LAN offers the most comprehensive service in South America. Besides flying to most major cities in Chile and Peru, the airline also offers flights between Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia, Ecuador, Uruguay, and Venezuela. Taca, Aerolíneas Argentinas, and Varig also have several international routes.

If you plan on traveling between Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, you should consider buying a Mercosur Air Pass. The pass allows you to make two stopovers in each country, with a maximum of 10 stopovers. The pass is good for 7 to 30 days. Prices are based on mileage covered. You must buy the air pass outside of South America, and your initial flight must be on Aerolíneas Argentinas, American, Continental, Delta, LAN, TAM, United, or Varig. For more information, contact Globotur Travel at tel. 800/998-5521 or visit www.globotur.com.

LAN and American Airlines have joined forces to create the Visit South America Airpass, which allows you to travel between Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Chile, Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Venezuela, and Uruguay. You must purchase a minimum of three flight segments, but you can only travel for 60 days or less. Again, fares are based on distance traveled. You must buy the pass in your home country. Contact LAN (tel. 800/735-5526; www.lan.com) or American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) for more information.

By Bus

It's possible to travel from Venezuela all the way to the tip of Argentina by bus. In fact, for most South Americans, buses are the main method of transportation. However, it's hard to find direct international routes. Usually, you take a bus to the border, where you must switch to a bus owned by a company in the country you have just entered. From there, you may have to take a bus to the largest nearby city, where you then can switch to a bus to your final destination. It's not the most efficient way to travel, but it's certainly cheap and a great way to see the countryside.

Tips for Senior Travelers

In most South American cultures, there is a deep respect for the elderly. Usually, if you ask for a senior discount, vendors will be happy to help you out. So don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry some kind of identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth. Also, mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many hotels offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Exploritas (tel. 800/454-5768; www.exploritas.org) and ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) both offer a variety of options for senior travelers in South America.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

South America is one of the planet's prime ecotourism destinations. Many of the isolated nature lodges and tour operators around the country are pioneers and dedicated professionals in the ecotourism and sustainable tourism field. Many other hotels, lodges, and tour operators are simply "green-washing," using the terms "eco" and "sustainable" in their promo materials, but doing little real good in their daily operations. Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas with listings on South America; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the region.

Deforestation is the main threat to South America's fragile ecosystem. Farming has virtually wiped out most of the region's rainforests, and logging is a major threat. Such destruction has been devastating to many species, including man himself, in the form of displaced indigenous tribes, and has led to drinking-water shortages, flash flooding, and mud slides. Though environmental awareness is growing, solving the region's huge environmental problems, including not just deforestation but the effects of overpopulation and industrial pollution, clearly remains an uphill struggle. Your hotel will often be your best bet for finding a place to deposit recyclable waste, especially if you choose a hotel that has instituted sustainable practices.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation in South America. Volunteer options are listed under "Special-Interest Vacations," below.

Argentina

Gold mining in San Juan, soya planting in El Chaco, global warming in South Patagonia, and pulp milling on the River Plate are all hot environmental issues in Argentina at the moment. Despite having one of the best national park systems in the region, the country's protected areas are under threat from encroaching development.

On the bright side is a growing awareness amongst the populace that they are in danger of losing what they have. A forest preservation law was introduced in 2007 prohibiting deforestation, and Mendoza's provincial congress issued a blanket ban on mining, though it was later overturned by the governor. Argentina's main weapon against environmental damage is its utter vastness and underpopulation, yet lax government control, little tradition for conservation, and rampant development are all cause for concern.

Bolivia

Bolivia, one of the world's most biodiverse countries on earth, is home to 60 protected areas, including 22 national parks, which covers an impressive 15% of its total territory. Many of the protected areas, however, are in constant threat from oil companies and loggers, who seemingly avoid any crackdowns from the government. The extraction of the significant lithium reserves in southwest Bolivia had led to frequent protests around Uyuni, but thus far they remain untapped. Natural gas reserves, once a significant source of revenue for Bolivia, have lost their value; as buyers in neighboring countries turn elsewhere, new explorations have come to a halt.

Only a few hotels have jumped on the green train in Bolivia thus far, including La Posada del Inca on Isla del Sol and Chalalan Ecolodge in Madidi National Park.

Brazil

Brazilian resorts and tour operators do advertise "ecotourism," but in Brazil this means anything that takes place in the outdoors, be it leave-only-footprints nature hikes or churn-up-the-wildlife ATV expeditions. It does not signify lodges or hotels with solar heating or clever ways of dealing with waste water, or even outdoor operators that take particular care of their local ecosystems.

In Brazil's two most vulnerable remaining ecosystems -- the Pantanal and the Amazon -- there are tourism operators who strive to protect their local ecosystems. In the Pantanal the Araras Eco Lodge and the Jaguar Ecological Reserve have helped to popularize the private ecological reserve, a Brazilian program through which the government provides tax breaks in return for a landowner committing to preserving a portion of his in perpetuity. The presence of ecotourism operators in the Pantanal has also provided a lobby to counter certain ill-advised development schemes, including the paving of the Transpantaneira highway, and the widening, straightening, and deepening of the Rio Paraguay, the better to transport soybeans to the coast.

In the Amazon, the Pousada Uakarí serves as an integral part of the Mamiraua Sustainable Development Institute (www.mamiraua.org.br), a project designed to preserve the habitat of the Uakarí monkey while improving the living standards of local human populations living in and around the Uakarí reserve. Other Amazon lodges come nowhere near this standard, though they do provide some local employment for guides and other lodge staff. Unfortunately, the miniscule scale of ecotourism operations in comparison with the employment and revenues generated by the timber and cattle industries has rendered ecotourism a nonplayer in the debate over preserving the Amazon.

However, one could argue that those who experience the Amazon become more likely to lobby to save it. Certainly, awareness of the importance of the Amazon, both globally and in Brazil, has led to the passage in Brazil of a range of reasonably stringent preservation measures, including parks, reserves, Indian reservations, national forest lands, and restrictions on deforestation on private landholdings. The problem in Brazil is that these regulations are often not respected, while enforcement on the ground remains weak. Still, rates of deforestation in the Brazilian Amazon have declined, from a 2004 peak of 27,400 sq. km (16,686 sq. miles, an area somewhat larger than Vermont) to 12,911 sq. km (5,035 sq. miles, an area somewhat smaller than Connecticut) in 2008.

Chile

The principal environmental problems that confront Chile are deforestation and air, water, and land pollution. Santiago is one of Latin America's most polluted cities, and air pollution there has become an acute problem; children and the elderly and infirm are frequently advised to stay indoors for days on end due to dangerous levels of toxic pollutants that enshroud the capital. Rapid urban expansion, industrial emissions from the copper mining sector, and the increased volume of car traffic are cited as the main causes of Santiago's air pollution. Mining is responsible for releasing the chief air and water pollutants, including sulfur dioxide and arsenic. In 2000, the city faced an unprecedented pollution emergency when over 200,000 vehicles were prohibited from driving on the roads and offending industries were shut down. Fortunately, in the last few years, environmental issues have taken a more prominent role in domestic politics and, while the pace is slow, government initiatives have gone a long way to improving the situation.

The indiscriminate logging of Chile's temperate forests has resulted in the tragic disappearance of thousand-year-old forests. The most publicized case of illegal logging, which has been taken up by environmental agencies, including Greenpeace, is that of the rare alerce tree, which is found in the Andes and can live for up to 3,500 years. Many animals are in serious risk of extinction throughout the country, as well. As of 2001, of the 91 listed mammals in Chile, some 16 species were registered as endangered. Almost 5% of Chile's 298 breeding bird species are threatened with extinction, most notably the tundra peregrine falcon, the Chilean woodstar, and the ruddy-headed goose. Also threatened are four types of freshwater fish and over 250 plant species.

Chile hasn't made great strides in the sustainable accommodations arena, although eco-conscious lodges are popping up in Patagonia and the Lake District.

Colombia

Colombia is facing significant environmental risks. At the current rate of deforestation, experts estimate that Colombia's jungles will completely disappear by the year 2050. The logging, mining, gold, and emerald trade, as well as the illicit coca trade, has caused massive deforestation at a rate of 1.5 to 2 million acres a year. Mountain scraping for farming has caused previously forested and vegetated areas to turn into semi-arid desert zones, and road and home construction in rural areas is threatening the country's biodiversity. In addition, improperly disposed sewage, pesticides, and herbicides have contaminated many of the country's rivers and lakes, making the water undrinkable. Factory and car pollution continues to be a major problem in cities.

Ecuador

Oil exploration and mining operations continue to be the biggest environmental threats in Ecuador. In addition to impacting the environment, these activities also impact a variety of indigenous groups, whose way of life, culture, and ancestral homelands are severely threatened. This has led to numerous protests, and sometimes violent clashes between indigenous groups and the government. The Galápagos Islands present their own special set of challenges in terms of environmental protection and sustainable development issues. Isolated, unique, and delicate, the Galápagos are threatened by overexposure to tourists, over fishing, and the introduction of non-native species.

Paraguay

Deforestation is the main concern in Paraguay, as big agro-businesses come from Brazil and Argentina to clear forests and plant genetically modified plants. On paper the country has an impressive list of parks and reserves, but because of poor public access, underfunded government bodies, and corrupt local officials, it seems the only people that get to enter these biologically diverse areas are ranchers and lumber companies.

Peru

Peru has 72 million hectares (178 million acres) of natural-growth forests -- 70% in the Amazon jungle region -- that comprise nearly 60% of the national territory. Peru has done a slightly better job of setting aside tracts of rainforest as national park reserves and regulating industry than have some other Latin American and Asian countries. The Manu Biosphere Reserve, the Tambopata National Reserve, and the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve are three of the largest protected rainforest areas in the world, and the government regulates entry of tour groups. Peru augmented the Bahuaja-Sonene National Park, which was created in 1996, by 809,000 hectares (nearly 2 million acres) in 2001. INRENA, Peru's Institute for Natural Resource Management, enforces logging regulations and reseeds Peru's Amazon forests, and in 2008, President Alan García created the country's first Ministry of the Environment. A handful of Peruvian and international environmental and conservation groups, such as ProNaturaleza and Conservation International, are active in Peru, working on sustainable forestry projects.

Yet Peru is losing nearly 300,000 hectares (740,000 acres) of rainforest annually. The primary threats to Peru's tropical forests are deforestation caused by agricultural expansion, cattle ranching, logging, oil extraction and spills, mining, illegal coca farming, and colonization initiatives. Deforestation has shrunk territories belonging to indigenous peoples and wiped out more than 90% of the population. (There were once some six million people, 2,000 tribes and/or ethnic groups, and innumerable languages in the Amazon basin; today the indigenous population is less than two million.) Jungle ecotourism has exploded in Peru, and rainforest regions are now much more accessible than they once were, with more lodges and eco-options than ever. Many are taking leading roles in sustainable tourism even as they introduce protected regions to more travelers.

Uruguay

Uruguay is often called the most European country in South America, not least because most of its natural forests have been cleared for agriculture and there is little or nothing left of large wildlife indigenous to the region. The few nature reserves that exist offer little out of the ordinary, though there are some seal colonies worth visiting along the coast. The hot environmental issue at the moment is a dispute with Argentina over two massive pulp mills built on the Uruguayan side of the River Plate, which are badly polluting the riverway. The Uruguayans have denied this claim.

Venezuela

Since over 90% of Venezuela's population lives in a narrow urban belt along the northern coast, much of the interior is seldom visited and oft forgotten. Still, Venezuela has the third-highest rate of deforestation in South America, and the country's oil industry has caused massive environmental destruction in the Lake Maracaibo area, and to a lesser extent in Los Llanos. Gold, iron, bauxite and coal mining operations have also had a negative impact on the environment. That said, Venezuela has the largest percentage of protected land, with some 55% of its total territory protected in some form or another.