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Among the most spectacular falls in the West Indies, rivaled only by the tourist-trodden Dunn's River Falls at Ocho Rios, these eight falls drop a panoramic 36m (120 ft.) in majestic tiers separated by beautiful pools ideal for swimming. The lush setting is framed by limestone cliffs and junglelike growth. A crew of engineers dug a basin out of the riverbank, thereby creating a large and beautiful freshwater swimming pool whose waters are constantly replenished by the swift-flowing waters. The falls lie on the privately owned YS Estate, 6km (3 3/4 miles) to the north of the A2 highway; the turnoff is signposted 2km (1 1/4 miles) east after you leave the village of Middle Quarters, about 13km (8 miles) north of Middle Quarters.

Kids love this estate, which includes a playground and tractor rides. It's open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30am to 3:30pm, charging an admission of US$14. There's a little thatched dining hut on-site serving chicken and burgers, if you didn't pack a lunch. For more information, call tel. 876/997-6360.

In the hamlet of Middle Quarters, women stand along the roadside hawking peppery shellfish. Fiery hot, these crayfish (locally called "swimps") are caught in the river and then cooked at little open-air roadside grills.