Planning a trip to South Korea

Health & Insurance

No official vaccinations are required to visit South Korea.

General Availability of Healthcare

Modern medical facilities are widely available in South Korea. However, treatment can be expensive for foreigners and English-speaking doctors can be difficult to find outside the major cities. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or in Canada 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. Medical facilities usually require an upfront deposit or proof of insurance before providing care.

Although it's easy to find over-the-counter medication in South Korea, it doesn't hurt to pack an antidiarrhea drug, just in case. Also, remember to bring any prescription medications with you, since most doctors and pharmacists outside of Seoul do not speak English. If you do run out of a prescription, don't worry. Most major medications are available in the big cities, and Koreans' knowledge of English is much better in reading and writing than in speaking -- if you write down the name of the drug you need, you'll likely get it.

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- Food and water-borne diseases are the most common ailment travelers experience. Take precautions and make sure you bring an antidiarrhea medicine. Children are at a higher risk of getting dehydrated, so make sure they get plenty of fluids.

Drinking tap water in South Korea is not recommended, but all restaurants and even offices and banks offer free filtered or bottled water. You can purchase 500ml bottles of water at convenience stores for W500.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Although mosquitoes can be fierce in South Korea in the summertime, the risk of contracting malaria is quite low in most of the country. Malaria risk is limited to the areas near the DMZ and rural areas in northern Gyeonggi and Gangwon provinces. Malaria is transmitted by infected mosquitoes, usually between dusk and dawn. Try to remain indoors or in screened-in areas during peak times. If you must be outside, wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and a hat. Be sure to use an insect repellant that contains DEET for any exposed areas of skin. The U.S. CDC recommends chloroquine as the antimalarial drug in South Korea, but check with your doctor before taking any medication.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Air pollution used to be a severe problem in South Korea, but tighter environmental controls have improved the air somewhat. However, in the larger cities, especially Seoul, air pollution is still a major problem. If you have asthma or respiratory issues, travel by subway and avoid long exposures to automobile exhaust.

Sporadically in the springtime, Asian/yellow dust storms from the deserts of Mongolia, northern China, and Kazakhstan kick up dense soil particles that winds carry all the way to South Korea. This wouldn't be such a problem if the dust didn't also carry so much pollution from Chinese industry. If you have a sensitive respiratory system, it's best to stay indoors when these dust storms are severe, since even face masks won't filter out the fine particles.

Avian & Swine Flus -- South Korea experienced its first cases of avian (H5N1) flu at the end of 2003 when 400,000 chickens on a farm were infected. In late 2006, 6,000 chickens on a farm, which lay in the path of migratory birds, died of avian flu. There were several confirmed cases of people contracting the flu, but no confirmed deaths. Still, make sure that any poultry you eat is well cooked.

South Korea confirmed its first cases of swine (H1N1) flu in May 2009 and thousands of cases were reported by the end 2009. There were nine confirmed deaths (mostly elderly and frail patients). By the end of 2009, over nine million people (mostly soldiers, children, medical workers, and the elderly) were given free vaccines.

Take precautionary measures like washing your hands often with soap and water (or use an alcohol-based hand cleaner) and avoiding touching your eyes, mouth, and nose.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Summers are hot and humid in South Korea. If you plan on spending any time outdoors, be sure to bring a hat, sunblock, and sunglasses. Summer is also typhoon season. Although most typhoons lose their strength by the time they make it to the peninsula, some have caused deaths in rare cases. Avoid areas along the coast when there are typhoon warnings.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. Consider buying extra insurance.

Medical facilities are modern and widely accessible in South Korea. English-speaking doctors are available at hospitals and international clinics in Seoul and other larger cities, but in rural areas they're difficult to find.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines. Most medicines are available in South Korea and most pharmacists can read English, but may require a Korean doctor's slip to fill a prescription.

Staying Safe

Although the crime rate in South Korea is very low, petty crime (such as pickpocketing) exists in big cities such as Seoul and Busan. As in any city, be aware of your surroundings, don't walk alone at night, and use only official public transport and taxis.

Every so often, political and student riots become violent and have been terminated by the release of tear gas by riot police. Demonstrations are usually held in front of universities, near U.S. Army installations, in front of city halls, and at Seoul Station. If you see police in riot gear or groups of protestors, avoid the area.

Possessing illegal drugs is frowned upon in the country -- so don't do it. Penalties for possession of, use of, or trafficking in illegal drugs in South Korea are severe. Korean authorities scan suspicious postal packages. If convicted, you can expect long jail sentences, heavy fines, and deportation at the end of the sentence.

Check with the U.S. State Department (tel. 888/407-4747 or 202/501-4444; http://travel.state.gov) for last-minute travel warnings before departing.

Dealing with Discrimination

South Korea is a homogeneous country. Koreans can be xenophobic, but they are usually quite friendly. When traveling in South Korea, you may experience some gawking (staring isn't considered particularly rude) or an occasional student wanting to practice his or her English.

Ever since the Korean War, Koreans have had a love-hate relationship with Americans. There have been reports of harassment of Westerners (and fights, especially in bars) in the Hongdae and Sincheon areas of Seoul. Some nightclubs and certain establishments may not let you in if you are a foreigner, if you're not dressed properly, or if you're considered too old.

Tips for Student Travelers

Students in South Korea receive discounts on everything from subway passes to entry fees to museums. You need to have a photo ID to receive most discounts.

The International Student Travel Confederation's International Student Identity Card qualifies students for substantial savings. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com). If you're 25 or under, you can get their International Youth Travel Card (IYTC), which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Each time you take a flight, CO2 is released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to reduce their CO2 emissions by the same amount you've added. Carbon offsets can be purchased in the U.S. from companies such as Carbonfund.org (www.carbonfund.org) and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and from Climate Care (www.climatecare.org) in the U.K.

Although South Korea is not particularly eco-friendly, the nation has been making more effort toward green living. Cities now have recycling (city dwellers are required to sort their trash) and buses with reduced emissions.

The municipality and national government have launched several efforts to make South Korea more environmentally conscious. Programs like the preservation of wetlands in places like Upon-eup, Junam, and Suncheon-man provide sanctuary for migrating birds as well as maintaining natural environments friendly to other wildlife. Unfortunately, the more they create awareness of certain areas, the more people come to visit, making it not so friendly for the birds and other animals there.

The good thing about South Korea is the country's extensive national park system (http://english.knps.or.kr). The government-run organization maintains the scenic mountains and the fragile environments of its islands and coastal locations as well.

In Seoul and other cities, the government has launched a bicycle program, building more trails and providing a standardized bike-rental program.

Another form of eco-tourism the Koreans are trying out is hands-on experiences and tours of organic farms throughout the country.

Although South Korea has no organized dolphin or whale-watching opportunities, 41 different species of these marine mammals can be found off the coasts of the peninsula. For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins and other outdoor activities, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org) and Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

Tips for Women Travelers

A woman traveling alone in South Korea is as safe as in most major cities in the world. Still, you should avoid walking around alone at night in small alleys. If you want to avoid unnecessary stares, be sure to dress conservatively, avoiding crop-tops, miniskirts, or flip-flops. You'll want to dress especially conservatively when visiting temples, since you may not be admitted. Also, always ride in the back of a taxi, not in the front seat next to the driver.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Escorted & Package Tours

Since South Korea is still a mystery to most travelers, there aren't that many specialized tours offered. However, some show off specific areas of the country's cultural kaleidoscope.

Aju Incentive Tours (www.ajutours.co.kr) has a 5-day culinary tour of Seoul, which includes a cooking class, an opportunity to sample temple fare, and a cultural performance. They also offer an interesting qi ("chi" in Chinese) tour exploring different aspects of Oriental medicine, including foot massages, a visit to the traditional herbal market, and a direct experience with acupuncture. Their other tours highlight different aspects of South Korea's arts and culture or explore the country's historical religions; they also offer ski tours, and even a bird-watching tour. Although bird-watching is a relatively new hobby in the country, Birds Korea (www.birdskorea.org) offers guided tours to see migrating fowl and birds unique to the region.

The KTO (tel. 02/729-9497, ext. 499, or the 24-hr. travel info hot line tel. 1330; http://english.tour2korea.com) will help you arrange seasonal and themed tours to specialized regions in the country.

Travel into North Korea is closed for the moment (after an unfortunate incident in which a South Korean housewife was shot and killed by a North Korean soldier). The closest you can get is to the Panmunjeom at the DMZ, which you can access via a day tour from Seoul. Plan your trip at least 3 days in advance.

Many of the major cities in South Korea also offer city tours. You can tour Seoul, Busan, Gyeongju, Daegu, Daejeon, Incheon, Suwon, Gongju, and Ulsan by bus.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Major universities in Seoul offer semester- or quarter-long language programs for learning the basis of Korean. The most popular programs are, of course, during the summer months, but classes area available year-round. Ewha University (fax 02/3277-2855 http://elc.ewha.ac.kr:1004/en/template/info01.asp) has 10-week and intensive 3-week courses. Yonsei University (www.yskli.com) has a popular summer language program. Seoul National University (tel. 02/880-5488; www.useoul.edu/admission/adm0601.jsp) provides a 5-week summer program, but has classes year-round. Korea (Goryeo) University (tel. 02/3290-2971 or 2972; http://kola.x-y.net/english/lecture.htm) has quarterly language programs.

Sogang University (tel. 02/705-7887; http://summer.sogang.ac.kr) offers a "master class," a 6-week workshop where well-known Korean artists, filmmakers, writers, or musicians provide insight from their experiences in their particular field of expertise. You can also enroll in their regular 10-week language courses year-round.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Adventure Travelers (www.adventure-travelers.com) offers specialty tours of South Korea, including a week of tae kwon do training, a 2-week trip with hands-on ceramics, and trips focusing on watersports or skiing. One of the best tours from an Australian operator is by The Imaginative Traveller (tel. 1300-135-088; www.imaginative-traveller.com), which provides a 15-day "adventure" tour that hits the major destinations as well as Seoraksan and the caves in Samcheok.

Food & Wine Trips

Unfortunately, no tour company offers regular culinary tours in South Korea. However, special tour packages are offered from time to time, usually in conjunction with a special event.

Traditional food classes are offered at the Institute of Traditional Korean Food at the Tteok Museum (tel. 02/741-5447). For W70,000, you can choose two dishes to cook from a list of traditional recipes. They require a minimum of two people and reservations at least a week in advance. There are no programs on Sunday.

Yoo's Family (tel. 02/3673-0323; www.yoosfamily.com) opens up their hanok (traditional house) in Bukcheon Hanok Village in Seoul to offer a couple of hands-on cooking classes. They have kimchi-making classes for W45,000 and a bulgogi and ddeokbokgi class for W60,000. There's a minimum of two people and reservations should be made at least a day in advance. Classes aren't offered on Sundays or national holidays.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Habitat for Humanity (tel. 02/2267-3702, ext. 403; http://eng.habitat.or.kr) has special volunteer trips to help build homes for poor South Koreans. No special skills are required, just a willingness to learn and roll up your sleeves. They have a home-building opportunity in Chuncheon from July 3 to 17, 2010. The trip costs US$1,990, which includes accommodations, meals, local transportation, and trip insurance. Airfare is not covered. Check their website for other volunteer trips.

CADIP (the Canadian Alliance for Development Initiatives and Projects; www.cadip.org) has several volunteer opportunities working with schoolchildren in areas like Muju, Namwon, Uiryeong, or even Busan. Most of their programs cost $590 Canadian dollars (about US$470), but that covers shared accommodations and three meals daily. They also provide W100,000 of pocket change per month. Visit their website for details and to apply.

Special-Interest Trips

If you've found yourself engrossed in the latest Korean drama offering, tissue in hand, yelling at the screen, you may want to tear yourself away to see some of the locations in person. Good Morning Tours (tel. 02/757-1232; goodmorningtours.com) has several 1-, 2- or even half-day tours centered on specific dramas. My favorite is the "Autumn in My Heart"/"Winter Sonata" combo tour, which takes you to Hawjimpo, Sokcho, Nami-do, and Chuncheon. The W320,000 includes hotel, all admission fees, and an English-speaking guide.

Ichon Tour (tel. 82-31-631-3302; www.ichontour.com) has a pottery-based tour with hands-on experiences in Icheon city, South Korea's ceramics center.

Escorted General-Interest Trips

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually is all-inclusive.

All4uKorea (tel. 010/7576-0018; www.all4u-korea-tour.com) is a group of tour operators based out of Seoul that offer customized tours with private drivers. You can also contact them about designing your own tour. Root Travel Ltd. (tel. 02/549-8605; www.roottravel.co.kr), also based out of Seoul, provides 12- to 20-day general tours spanning Seoul, Busan, and Gyeongju.

Alumni Travel (tel. 02/9290-3856; www.alumnitravel.com.au), based in Sydney, offers a specially guided tour of South Korea that spans 17 days. Tour East Holidays (tel. 416/929-6688; www.toureastholidays.com), a Toronto-based company, offers a brief South Korea tour that hits the three major cities. AffordableTours.com (tel. 800/935-2620 or 281/269-2600) offers a handful of general and cultural tours that hit the major cities (usually breakfasts and lunches are included, but you're on your own for dinner). R&C Hawaii Tours (tel. 808/942-3388; www.rchawaii.com) offers summer and autumn tours. A.T. Seasons & Vacations Travel (tel. 91-11-22794796; www.visitsasia.com), based in New Delhi, offers 4- to 7-day general tours of South Korea, starting from Incheon airport. The KTO (http://english.tour2korea.com) also provides a list of travel agencies in your home country that can arrange escorted tours to fit your needs.

Getting There

By Plane

Most international flights into South Korea fly to Seoul's Incheon Airport (ICN), while the airports in Busan (Gimhae), Jeju, Gwangju, Ulsan, and Daegu serve international destinations mostly in Asia. South Korea has two national airlines, Korean Airlines (www.koreanair.com) and Asiana Airlines (us.flyasiana.com), which sometimes provide cheaper fares than their competition abroad, and usually have better service and food.

Note that when you leave the country from Seoul there's a departure tax, currently W17,000, which may or may not be included in your airfare price. Transit passengers and infants 1 and under are exempt. There is also a W3,000 airport tax for domestic flights within South Korea.

Tip: Try to book a flight that arrives before 10pm, since buses and subways stop running at midnight. Your only choice of transportation into the city will be via taxi, which can cost you W60,000 to W90,000 plus an additional W7,100 toll charge.

From North America -- Flights from North America to Seoul are usually cheaper from western cities such as Vancouver, Seattle, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. North American airlines that fly to Seoul include Air Canada (www.aircanada.com), with nonstop flights from Vancouver and Toronto; Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com), with nonstops to Seoul from Seattle and Chicago and several flights from other cities via Tokyo or Osaka; United Airlines (www.united.com), from several cities to Seoul and Busan; and American Airlines (www.aa.com), usually via Tokyo to Seoul.

Among Asian carriers, only Korean Air and Asiana fly nonstop -- Korean Airlines flies to Seoul from Vancouver, Toronto, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Dallas/Fort Worth, Chicago, New York, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and Anchorage, and Asiana Airlines has many more indirect and direct flights from North America to Seoul. Several other airlines fly with at least one stopover, including Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.com) via Hong Kong, Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeairlines.com) via Singapore, and Japan Airlines (www.ar.jal.com) via Tokyo.

From the United Kingdom -- Flights to South Korea from the U.K. originate from London and fly to Seoul, taking about 11 hours. KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (www.klm.com), which sometimes stops in Amsterdam, Korean Airlines, and Asiana Airlines fly nonstop. Several other providers fly with at least one stopover, including British Airways (www.ba.com) via Tokyo or Hong Kong, Air France (www.airfrance.com) via Paris, Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong, Singapore Airlines via Singapore, Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) via Frankfurt, China Eastern Airlines (www.chinaeastern.co.uk) via Shanghai, Aeroflot Russian Airlines (www.aeroflot.com) via Moscow, Emirates (www.emirates.com) via Dubai, and Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com) via Doha.

From Australia & New Zealand -- There aren't that many choices to South Korea from Down Under. Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) and Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) fly from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, and Brisbane; Air China (www.airchina.com) from Sydney; Korean Air from Brisbane, Sydney, and Auckland to Seoul and Busan; and Asiana Airlines from Sydney to Seoul. The flight takes bout 10 1/2 hours.

Arriving at the Airport

More than likely you will be arriving at Seoul's Incheon International Airport (tel. 032/1577-2600), which is 52km (32 miles) west of Seoul on Yeongjong Island. Arrivals are on the first floor, where you will find global ATMs; foreign currency exchanges (daily 6am-10pm); the Incheon Tourist Information Center (daily 7am-10pm; tel. 032/743-0011); the KTO Tourist Information Center (daily 7am-10pm; tel. 1330); and the Hotel Information Center (daily 9am-10pm; tel. 032/743-2570), a private company that offers some discounts to midrange and high-end hotels. The second floor has a few domestic flights to and from Jeju-do and Busan, and an Internet cafe lounge (W3,000 per hour; daily 8am-7:30pm; tel. 032/743-7427).

Getting into Seoul from the Airport -- Special airport buses (called "limousine buses") run daily every 10 to 30 minutes, starting around 5:30am until 10pm. A trip to downtown Seoul takes around 90 minutes (longer during high-traffic times). Limousine buses cost about W8,000, while KAL deluxe limousine buses cost W12,000 and stop at 20 of the major hotels in Seoul.

Regular taxis charge around W40,000 to W60,000 to downtown Seoul. Deluxe taxis (they are black) charge around W63,000 to W90,000. Deluxe taxis are especially useful for business travelers, since the drivers can speak basic English, have free phone service, take credit cards, and will offer a receipt. Taxi fares can be considerably more during high-traffic times, since their fares are based on distance and time. Also, your taxi driver may make you pay the W7,100 toll charge for the expressway.

The Airport Railroad (AREX) connects Incheon to Gimpo Airport. From there you can take the subway to anywhere in the city. The AREX from Incheon Airport to Seoul Station will be running in 2010.

By Car

You can't get into South Korea by car (since it's surrounded on three sides by water and on the top by the DMZ and North Korea). Once you're in the country, however, you can get around easily by car. Although I wouldn't recommend driving in the large cities, like Seoul and Busan, the rest of the country is easily traversed by car.

By Train

South Korea has an extensive domestic rail system operated by the Korean National Railroad (tel. 02/1544-7788; www.korail.go.kr). Tickets can be purchased up to a month in advance at many travel agents and up to an hour before departure at train stations.

There are three types of trains -- the KTX (Korea Train Express; http://ktx.korail.go.kr/eng) bullet train, which runs at speeds up to 300kmph (186 mph); the express Saemaeul; and the Mugunghwa trains. You can purchase tickets up to 2 months in advance or as close as an hour before departure. Tickets are available online, at most travel agents in Seoul, or at ticket counters and automatic ticket machines at the station.

Visitors can buy a voucher for a KR Pass in their home country and exchange them in Seoul for passes for unlimited travel on the railways. The passes are not available for purchase in South Korea, so be sure to get it at least 5 days in advance if you're planning on extensive train travel. The KR Passes are good for rides during consecutive days in increments of 3 ($76/£38), 5 ($115/£58), 7 ($145/£73), and 10 ($166/£83) days. A Saver Pass can be purchased for two to five people traveling together at a 10% discount. Those 24 and under can get a Youth Pass for 20% less. Check the Korean Railroad website (www.korail.go.kr) for more info or contact STA Travel (tel. 800/777-0112 or 02/733-9494 in Seoul; www.statravelgroup.com). In Seoul, STA Pass vouchers can be exchanged for train tickets at Kises Tour, located in the YMCA Building, Suite 505, Jongno 2-ga. Take Seoul subway line 1 to Jonggak Station, exit 3 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm; Sat 9am-3pm).

By Boat

There are ferry connections from South Korea to domestic destinations and cities in Japan and China. At the Incheon International Ferry Terminal, 1-2 Hang 7-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon (tel. 032/888-0116), there are boats to and from Dandong (Dandong Ferry; tel. 02/713-5522; www.dandongferry.co.kr), Tianjin (Jincheon Ferry; tel. 02/517-8671; www.dae-atour.co.kr; takes 25 hr.), Qingdao (Weidong Ferry; tel. 02/3271-6753; www.weidong.com; 18 hr.), Weihai (also Weidong Ferry; 14 hr.), Dalian (Da-In Ferry; tel. 02/3218-6550; www.dainferry.co.kr; 17 hr.), and Yantai (Hanjung Ferry; tel. 02/360-6900; www.hanjoongferry.co.kr; 16 hr.) in China. The ships go only two or three times per week to each destination and schedules change, so be sure to confirm actual departure times and days.

From Busan Port, 15-3 Jung-ang 4-dong, Jung-gu, Busan (tel. 051/999-3000; www.busanferry.com or http://busanpa.com), the most frequent boats travel daily to Shimonoseki (Bugwan Ferry; tel. 02/738-0055) and three times a week (usually Mon, Wed, and Fri) to Hakata, Japan (Korea Marine Express; tel. 02/730-8666).

From the Mokpo Ferry Terminal (tel. 061-240-6060, ext. 1) you can take a boat to Shanghai on Mondays and Fridays.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

The government requires that passports be good for 6 months past your date of arrival, so make sure your passport is up-to-date.

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport. For other information, contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

A visa is not needed for most visitors staying for 30 days and under.

British, Australian, and New Zealand citizens can visit for up to 90 days without a visa. Canadian citizens can visit for up to 90 days without a visa and can extend their stay for up to 6 months.

U.S. and South African citizens visiting for fewer than 30 days do not require a visa. For trips up to 90 days, Americans need a C-3 short-term visitor visa. For short-term business trips (up to 90 days), you'll need a C-2 short-term business visa. Both are valid for multiple entries within a 5-year period (or until your passport expires). In order to get the visa, you'll need to file the application (available for download at www.mofat.go.kr), along with a photo and fee (generally $45 for U.S. citizens, though you should check the website to see if additional fees apply). Business travelers need an additional letter, invoice, or contract showing the nature of their business in South Korea. Submit visa applications by mail or in person to a South Korean embassy or consulate near you. I've listed many of those offices below.

South Korean Embassy & Consulate Locations

In the United States --

• Korean Embassy: 2320 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/939-5663 or 202/939-5660; www.koreaembassyusa.org).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Atlanta: 229 Peachtree St., Suite 500, International Tower, Atlanta, GA 30303 (tel. 404/522-1611).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Boston: One Gateway Center, 2nd Floor, Newton, MA 02458 (tel. 617/641-2830).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Chicago: NBC Tower, Suite 2700, 455 N. City Front Plaza Dr., Chicago, IL 60611 (tel. 312/822-9485).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Honolulu: 2756 Pali Hwy., Honolulu, HI 96817 (tel. 808/595-6109).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Houston: 1990 Post Oak Blvd., #1250, Houston, TX 77056 (tel. 713/961-0186).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Los Angeles: 3243 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90010 (tel. 213/385-9300).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in New York (Visa Section): 460 Park Ave. (57th St.), 6th Floor, New York, NY 10022 (tel. 646/674-6000).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in San Francisco: 3500 Clay St., San Francisco, CA 94118 (tel. 415/921-2251).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Seattle: 2033 Sixth Ave., #1125, Seattle, WA 98121 (tel. 206/441-1011).

In Canada -- 

• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Vancouver: 1090 Georgia St., Suite 1600, Vancouver, BC V6E 3V7 (tel. 604/681-9581; http://can-vancouver.mofat.go.kr).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Ontario: 555 Avenue Rd., Toronto, ON M4V 2J7 (tel. 416/920-3809; www.koreanconsulate.on.ca).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Montreal: 1 Place Ville-Marie, Suite 2015, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 2C4 (tel. 514/845-2555; www.koreanconsulate.qc.ca).

In the United Kingdom -- 

• Korean Embassy: 60 Buckingham Gate, London, SW1E 6AJ (tel. 44-[0]20-7227-5500.

In Australia --

• Korean Embassy: 113 Empire Circuit, Yarralumla ACT 2600 (tel. 61-2-6270-4100; http://aus-act.mofat.go.kr).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Sydney: Level 13, 111 Elisabeth St., Sydney NSW 2000 (tel. 61-2-9210-0200).

In New Zealand --

• Korean Embassy: 11th Floor, ASB Bank Tower, 2 Hunter St., Wellington 6011 (tel. 64-4-473-9073; http://nzl-wellington.mofat.go.kr).
• Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Auckland: 10th Floor, 396 Queen St., Auckland 6011 (tel. 64-9-379-0818).

Additional visa information can be found on the South Korean Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade website at www.mofat.go.kr (click on "Visa") or http://english.tour2korea.com (under "Entry Info").

Customs

What You Can Bring into South Korea -- If you are over 19, you can bring the following goods into South Korea without incurring a custom tax: 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of other tobacco products; one bottle (not exceeding 1 liter) of alcohol; 57 grams of perfume; gifts up to the value of W300,000. Expensive watches, cameras, jewelry, precious metals, and furs should be declared upon entry or there will be a tax upon departure (W8,000 per person). There is no restriction on how much currency you can bring into the country.

Prohibited items: Narcotics and drugs; fruit, hay, and seeds; printed material, films, records, or cassettes considered by the authorities to be subversive, obscene, or harmful to national security or public interests; and products originating from communist countries.

Restricted items: Firearms, explosives, and other weapons and ammunition, even for sporting purposes, unless prior police permission is obtained and items are declared on arrival; plants and plant products require a phytosanitary certificate issued by the plant quarantine office of the country of origin. In order to prevent the spread of hoof-and-mouth disease, if you're bringing any beef or pork into South Korea, you must declare it to Customs officials.

What You Can Take Home from South Korea -- The South Korean government is very strict about any cultural assets that may be exported from the country. Sculptures, painting, ceramics, and such have to be evaluated by the Art and Antiques Assessment Office (tel. 02/732-9442) before you leave. Items considered to be of cultural value will be retained by the government.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go" for an online brochure.) Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

No immunizations are required for entry.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Payment Options

Since South Koreans are avid credit card users, it's become easier for visitors to use credit cards in most stores and restaurants. Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted types, with some high-end hotels and restaurants accepting American Express. For smaller restaurants, outdoor markets, and bus fare, cash is necessary. However, don't carry excessive amounts of cash. If you do, use a money belt (since pickpockets are prevalent in the cities' crowded public transportation systems).

Currency

South Korea's official monetary unit is the won (W). Currency is available in W10,000, W5,000, and W1,000 notes and W500, W100, W50, and W10 coins (which are less in use). At the time this book went to press, the U.S. dollar was trading around W1,152, the pound sterling at W1,896, the euro at W1,711, the Canadian dollar at W1,098, and the Australian dollar at W1,055. Bear in mind that conversion rates may fluctuate depending on economic conditions. The latest rates can be found at www.xe.com/ucc.

ATMs

In South Korea, there are regular ATMs and cash dispenser machines (CDs), which give out cash but don't accept deposits. CDs generally offer directions in English and are more convenient for travelers since most ATMs in South Korea require that customers have an account with a Korean bank. Citibank (tel. 02/2004-1004 Mon-Fri 9am-6pm; www.citibank.co.kr), Korea Exchange Bank (www.keb.co.kr/english), and Shinhan Bank (tel. 02/3449-8000; www.shinhan.com) ATMs generally accept foreign cards. The CDs in train stations, bus terminals, and department stores are the most foreigner-friendly. Some ATMs and CDs are available 24/7, but many operate from 8am to midnight on weekdays and nonholidays. The Cirrus (tel. 0079-811-887-0823 or 800/424-7787, 636/722-7111 outside the U.S.; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 00818-00-908-8212 or 800/843-7587, 410/581-9994 from outside the U.S.; www.visa.com) networks are the most widely accepted in South Korea. Korean ATMs have their own daily limit, some as low as W300,000 per day, but many go up to W700,000. If you have a five- or six-digit PIN, make sure to change it to a four-digit number since most Korean ATMs accept only four-digit PINs (although Citibank and a few other international ATMs allow longer PINs). If you have any trouble using an ATM or a CD, call the Korea Travel Phone at tel. 1330 for assistance in English.

Credit Cards

Visa, American Express, MasterCard, and sometimes Diners Club are accepted at major hotels, department stores, large restaurants, and stores. Koreans frequently pay with their credit cards, but just because an establishment accepts a Korean credit card doesn't mean it'll accept yours. Many stores and restaurants may have trouble processing foreign cards, so make sure that you have enough cash on hand for your purchase. Also, remember to alert your credit card provider that you will be traveling overseas. You wouldn't want your credit card company to see a series of overseas charges and block your card. Always carry a backup card with you just in case.

Traveler's Checks

Visa, American Express, and Thomas Cook traveler's checks are used in South Korea and can be exchanged at some banks and exchange bureaus.

Traveler's checks are also accepted at major hotels, department stores, and large restaurants and shops. Outside most major cities and at open markets, smaller shops, and local restaurants, it's best to use credit cards or cash.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for cardholders); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee for checks up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, handy at locations not accepting foreign checks.

Calendar of Events

South Korea's traditional festivals follow the lunar calendar, but modern festivals follow the solar/Gregorian calendar. For conversion to solar calendar dates, visit www.mandarintools.com/calconv_old.html, www.chinesefortunecalendar.com/CLunarCal1.htm, or www.est-direct.com/china/cncaps.php.

With festivals for everything from fireflies to pine mushrooms to swimming in icy-cold water, Koreans will most likely be celebrating something when you visit. Regional festivals are a great way to get a sense of just how varied Korean culture is while experiencing traditional costumes, performances, and music.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Seol (Lunar New Year) is still one of the biggest holidays of the year. Koreans get up early, put on their best clothes (usually the traditional hanbok), and bow to their elders. Families celebrate with feasts of dduk guk (rice-cake soup) or mandu guk (dumpling soup), and the palaces in Seoul host special events.

Hwacheon Mountain Trout Festival (tel. 033/441-7575) is a charming festival celebrating the mountain trout (the "Queen of the Valleys"). Thousands of people descend upon this small town in Gangwon-do to catch this fish and enjoy a variety of winter sports. Through most of January.

February

Inje Ice Fishing Festival (tel. 033/460-2082) occurs every winter, when Soyang lake freezes over and hundreds of people flock to this mountain village in the inner Seoraksan area. Not only will you be able to ice fish, but you also can play ice soccer, go sledding, watch a dog sled competition, and enjoy a meal of freshly caught smelt. Late January through mid-February.

March

Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival celebrates the first full moon of the lunar year. The celebrations involve both livestock -- there are duck and pig races -- and nods to the island's history. The festival arose from the island's ancient practice of burning grazing fields, which served the dual purpose of razing the land for new crops of grass and getting rid of pests. Don't miss the spectacular fireworks show. February or March on the 15th day of the first lunar month.

Gyeongju Traditional Drink & Rice Cake Festival (tel. 054/748-7721 or 2; www.fgf.or.kr) is held at Hwangseong Park in Gyeongju every March or April (dates vary wildly, so be sure to check ahead of time) and is the perfect place to sample everything from rice cakes to rice wine. You can also try your hand at pounding rice into cakes the old-fashioned way (it requires more upper-body strength than you might think), see traditional folk performers, and enjoy the marketlike atmosphere.

April

Gwangalli Eobang Festival (tel. 051/610-4062, ext. 4) celebrates the arrival of spring and was founded in 2001, when three smaller festivals (the Millak Live Fish Festival, the Gwangalli Beach Festival, and the Cherry Blossom Festival) were combined. The festivities are kicked off when hundreds of Busan residents parade in masks and costumes. The masks and costumes are a mix of old and new, and represent a traditional play called "Suyeong Yaryu," which originated from Suyeong-gu (an area in central Busan) and which mocks the yangban (noble class). Other events include the local custom of praying for the safe return of fishermen (with a big catch, of course). At night, you can enjoy the fireworks and the lights of the Jindu-eoha, where fishing boats are lit to reenact traditional torchlight fishing. Early April.

Jeonju International Film Festival (www.jiff.or.kr) is held in (where else?) Jeonju. You won't catch many blockbusters here -- the festival is more focused on short independent films -- but you may discover a new star on the rise. Late April to early May.

Hi Seoul Festival (tel. 02/3290-7150; www.hiseoulfest.org) highlights the history and culture of South Korea's capital. Most of this festival's events, including everything from classical music to rock music concerts, happen in the downtown area. Don't miss the spectacular lighted boat parade in the evenings in Yeoui-do. Lasts about a week, usually in early May.

Icheon Ceramic Festival (tel. 031/644-2944, ext. 4. Want to experience the history and craftsmanship of Korean pottery? Then head to Icheon for this festival, where you can buy even handmade ceramics from the artists themselves. Late April.

May

Boseong Green Tea (Da Hyang) Festival (tel. 061/852-1330; www.boseong.go.kr) is held in South Korea's most important tea-producing region. This is a great way to enjoy Jeollanam-do (Jeollanam province) and to taste some of the finest nokcha (green tea) in the world. You can also try foods made with green tea, try a tea facial, and participate in traditional tea ceremonies. Early May, in odd-numbered years (2011, 2013, and so on).

Lotus Lantern Festival (tel. 02/2011-1744, ext. 7; www.llf.or.kr) coincides with Buddha's Birthday (also known as "The Day the Buddha Came"), and it is not to be missed. Hundreds of thousands of people parade along the Han River with lanterns. The opening ceremony for the parade starts at Dongdaemun Stadium. Other events happen at Jogyesa Temple in Seoul and throughout the country in mid-May.

Gangneung Danoje Festival (http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=293063) celebrates Dano (the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar year) with brewing of sacred wine. Although there are month-long events, the main festivities happen in the 3 to 4 days surrounding Dano. Highlights include the Gwanno mask drama -- a pantomime combining Korea's ancient shamanistic beliefs with traditional dance and mask play that was performed and handed down by government servants during the Joseon Dynasty -- and daily shamanistic rituals. The festivities have been deemed an important, intangible cultural property by UNESCO. Late May through June in Gangwon-do.

June

Muju Firefly Festival (tel. 063/322-1330; festival@firefly.or.kr) honors the local ecosystem. This is the only place in South Korea where fireflies are found, and the people of Muju use the insect's annual appearance as an excuse to celebrate. The festival also includes tae kwon do demonstrations, since Muju is the site of the World Taekwondo Park. Early June in Jeollabuk-do.

July

Boryeong Mud Festival (tel. 011/438-4865; www.mudfestival.or.kr) is all about rolling around in the mud. Supposedly very good for your skin, mud from this region is used in cosmetics and massages. Great fun for kids, events include mud wrestling, mud slides, and making mud soap. For 1 week in mid-July in Chungcheongnam-do.

August

Busan International Rock Festival (www.rockfestival.co.kr) turns Dadaepo Beach into an open-air concert venue. This free festival attracts over 150,000 fans to see musicians from South Korea and all over the world. Early August.

Muan White Lotus Festival (tel. http://tour.muan.go.kr) is held at Asia's largest field of the rare white lotus. Other than walking trough the gardens, you can take a boat ride to see the blooms up close, enjoy contemporary and traditional performances, and eat a variety of foods made from lotuses. Try the lotus ice cream and the lotus noodles. Mid-August in Muan-geun in Jeollanam-do.

September

Chuseok (Harvest Festival) is another important traditional holiday and is held on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month. Also called Korean Thanksgiving, this holiday celebrates the bountiful harvest and hopes for another good year to come. Although most Koreans will be traveling to their ancestral homes, festivities are held at the palaces and at the National Folk Museum in Seoul. Usually sometime in September.

October

Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF; www.piff.org) is one of the largest showcases for new films in Asia. The festival attracts over 200 films from dozens of different countries (with an emphasis on Asian films, of course). Just to confuse matters, it is held in Busan, which used to be known as Pusan (hence the name of the festival). Usually happening in mid-October.

Jagalchi Festival (tel. 051/243-9363; www.ijagalchi.co.kr) is South Korea's largest seafood festival. Celebrating the sea, traditional fishing rituals are performed and you can enjoy raw fish and discounts on pretty much everything that's sold at the Jagalchi Market. Mid-October in Busan.

Icheon Rice Cultural Festival (tel. 031/644-4121; www.ricefestival.or.kr) celebrates the agriculture (particularly rice) from the plains of Icheon, which once grew the rice served to royalty. Held at Icheon Seolbong Park; stop in at a neighborhood restaurant for rice and vegetables in a dolsotbap (hot stone pot). Late October.

November

Gwangju Kimchi Festival (tel. 062/613-3641 or 2; http://kimchi.gwangju.kr) highlights this 5,000-year-old Korean food tradition. Taste the variety of the region's kimchi (the most popular type being made from fermented napa cabbage), or make some of your own. Mid-November.

When to Go

South Korea has four distinct seasons, and the best times to visit are in the spring and fall, since summers are hot and wet and winters are dry and very cold -- though the mountainous terrain makes for great skiing. More detailed weather information is given below, but a far bigger factor in your planning should be avoiding major Korean holidays. Domestic tourists take to the roads in the tens of thousands, crowding all forms of transportation, filling hotels, and making it difficult to visit popular attractions. By contrast, Seoul empties out and traffic is almost nonexistent.

Peak Travel Times

Seol (Lunar New Year) -- Although January 1 is also celebrated in South Korea, Seol (also known as Seollal) is a bigger holiday. It can be difficult for tourists to figure out when the Lunar New Year will fall, as Westerners rely on a solar calendar. The solar calendar equivalents of the Lunar New Year for the next few years are February 3, 2011; January 23, 2012; February 10, 2013. Most Koreans get 3 days off during the holiday and use that time to travel to their hometowns. Others take the opportunity to go on ski holidays or travel abroad. Bus and train tickets go on sale 3 months before the holiday and people line up for hours in order to get their passage out of town. Driving is a bad option, since the normal 5- to 6-hour drive from Seoul to Busan, for example, can take up to 14 hours due to ridiculous traffic.

Children's Day -- Though not necessarily in prime travel season, May 5 is the day South Koreans celebrate their little ones. Parents dress up their kids and take them to amusement parks, zoos, theaters -- pretty much anywhere children love to go. If you want to avoid big crowds, stay away from kiddie hot spots on this day.

Summer Holidays -- It's not as insanely busy as the Lunar New Year or Chuseok , but when the kids go on summer break, many families head out of Seoul to vacation on the beaches and in the mountains. Korean children have only about 6 weeks of summer vacation, usually from mid-July to late August, but university students keep trains and buses busy throughout the season. Be sure to book rooms in popular destinations (such as Busan's beaches, which get super-crowded June-Aug) well in advance.

Chuseok (Harvest Moon Festival) -- Another traditional holiday as important as Lunar New Year, Chuseok (sometimes spelled Chusok) is celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, usually sometime in mid- to late September. Solar equivalents for the next few years are September 22, 2010; September 12, 2011; September 30, 2012; and September 19, 2013. The days before and after are considered legal holidays in South Korea. Once again, Korean families mobilize to visit their hometowns and pay respect to their ancestors. Tickets for travel usually sell out 3 months in advance and roads and hotels are again packed.

Climate

South Korea's climate can be described as temperate, with four distinct seasons. The weather is heavily influenced by the oceans that surround the Korean Peninsula and by its proximity to the rest of Asia to the north. Winters and summers are long and punctuated by short but enjoyable springs and autumns.

Winter begins in November as cold air moves south from Siberia and Manchuria. By December and January, average temperatures drop below 32°F (0°C) over the whole country, with the notable exception of Jeju-do and some coastal areas. In Seoul, winter temperatures usually drop to 18°F (-8°C) and have been known to fall to -11°F (-24°C).

Spring starts by the end of March, when warm air begins to move north off the Pacific Ocean. Temperatures usually average 51°F (11°C), and rainfall is unpredictable. By the end of May, summer brings a period of warmth and humidity with heavy rainfall that starts in July and lasts until the end of September. Summer temperatures average 77°F (25°C), but often approach 86°F (30°C) in July and August. It's not the heat; it's the humidity. South Korea gets about 125cm (49 in.) of rain annually, 60% of which falls during the summer months. In general, the southern and western regions see more rain, with Jeju-do having the highest average rainfall per year. The summer is also typhoon season in South Korea. Although most typhoons lose their strength by the time they make it to the peninsula, some cause flooding, structural damage, and, in extreme cases, even death.

By late September, the cool, dry winds from Siberia change the weather again. Temperatures fall to about 59°F (15°C) and skies generally remain clear and crisp, with very little rainfall. Koreans consider autumn the best season, marked by the most important national holiday, Chuseok, when people visit their ancestral homes and give thanks for the harvest. Trees throughout the country exchange their summer greens for autumn colors.

Public Holidays

South Koreans celebrate both holidays from the traditional lunar calendar (dates vary from year to year) and holidays adopted from the Western calendar. National public holidays are New Year's Day (celebrated Jan 1 and 2), Lunar New Year's Day (usually in Jan or Feb, and the 2 days following it), Independence Movement Day (Mar 1), Arbor Day (Apr 5), Children's Day (May 5), Buddha's Birthday/Feast of the Lanterns (the eighth day of the fourth month, usually in Apr or May), Memorial Day (June 5), Constitution Day (July 17), Liberation Day (Aug 15), Foundation Day (Oct 3), Harvest Moon Festival (14th-16th days of the eighth month), and Christmas Day (Dec 25).

Banks, schools, post offices, and government departments are all closed on the above dates, as are many museums and attractions. Although not a national holiday, Labor Day is observed on May 1, and banks and many businesses close.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

Luckily for you, vegetarian fare can be found all over South Korea, though with some difficulty if you don't speak the language. Vegetarian cuisine is historically linked to Buddhism, but a new wave of Korean vegetarianism is growing in popularity. All Buddhist restaurants are vegetarian, and temple stays (http://eng.templestay.com) offer vegetarian meals. Korean tea ceremonies are vegan. For more info on vegetarian options, visit Happy Cow's Vegetarian Guide to Restaurants & Health Food Stores (www.happycow.net) and VegDining.com list of veg restaurants around the world. Vegetarian Vacations (www.vegetarian-vacations.com) offers vegetarian tours and itineraries.

Visitor Information

The Korea Tourism Organization (KTO) has an info desk between gates 1 & 2 and 12 & 13 on the arrival floor of the Incheon Airport (tel. 032/743-2600, ext. 3; daily 9am-10pm).

The main KTO office is located off of Jonggak Station B1, KTO Building (T2 Tower), level B1, 40, Cheonggyecheon-no, Jung-gu, Seoul 100-180 (tel. 02/729-9497, ext. 499; daily 9am-8pm; http://english.visitkorea.or.kr). It publishes a variety of free brochures and maps, as well as providing transportation reservations and other travelers' assistance.

One of the best services the KTO provides is what they call Goodwill Guides. These English-speaking volunteers (usually students wanting to practice their English) will provide free translation and travel assistance to you. Visit the KTO website at least a week in advance of your trip, click on "Goodwill Guide" in the "Travel Tools" box on the right, and input the dates you are traveling. If you didn't do any advance planning, you can see which guides are available for the upcoming 3 days. You can also e-mail them at goodwillguide@mail.knto.or.kr for additional assistance.

The Tourist Assistance Center can be reached at tel. 1330 (or from a cellphone, dial the area code of the region plus 1330). In areas other than the 22 registered cities, call tel. 080/757-2000 (toll-free).

The KTO has offices all over the world, including several in the U.S.: Chicago, 737 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 910, Chicago, IL 60611 (tel. 312/981-1717; chicago@kntoamerica.com); Hawaii, 1188 Bishop St. Ph1, Honolulu, HI 96813 (tel. 808/521-8066); Los Angeles, 5509 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 201, Los Angeles, CA 90036 (tel. 323/634-0280; la@kntoamerica.com); and the New York metropolitan area, 2 Executive Dr., Suite 750, Fort Lee, NJ 07024 (tel. 201/585-0909; ny@kntoamerica.com). There are also offices in England (New Zealand House Haymarket, 3rd Floor, London SW1Y 4TE; tel. 44-20-7321-2535 or 44-20-7925-1717; london@mail.knto.or.kr); Canada (700 Bay St., Suite 1903, Toronto, Ontario M5G 1Z6; tel. 416/348-9056 or -9057; toronto@knto.ca); Australia (Australia Square Tower, Level 16, 264 George St., Sydney, N.S.W. 2000; tel. 61-2-9252-4147 or -4148; visitkorea@knto.org.au); and major cities throughout Asia.

Here are some websites helpful for your travels in South Korea: www.korea.net, www.lifeinkorea.com, and www.koreanculture.org.

If you want to get a variety of perspectives on Korea and its culture, the Korean Blog List (http://korea.banoffeepie.com) is an unofficial list of over 400 blogs about Korea in English. The blogs are categorized as "Foreigners Living in Korea," "Koreans Living in Korea," "Koreans Living Outside Korea," and the like.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors are generally well respected in South Korea. People usually offer their seats to older people and help elders with their bags. As Koreans are dealing with a rapidly aging population, the government is offering discounts to seniors (ages 65 and older), such as lower rates on public transportation and discounted (or even free) entry fees to tourist attractions. You'll need to show your passport or other form of identification showing your age.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those ages 55 and over.

Tips for Black Travelers

There aren't many blacks in South Korea, and most are stationed here with the U.S. military or are here from countries in Africa to study or work. In general, Koreans don't discriminate any more against blacks than they do against any other foreigners. Those who take issue with foreigners will do so regardless of skin color. That said, Koreans have culturally found lighter skin more attractive, since historically, those who worked in the fields got darker, while royalty and the aristocratic yangban class kept their complexions hidden from the sun. Since black travelers are rare in South Korea, you may get some curious stares.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com) and the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com).

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Seoul, Gwacheon, Gwangmyeong (in Gyeonggi-do), 02; Incheon, Bucheon, 032; Siheung (in Gyeonggi-do), 031; Daejeon, 042; Chungcheongnam-do, 041; Chungcheongbuk-do, 043; Jeollanam-do, 061; Jeollabuk-do, 063; Gwangju, 062; Ulsan, 052; Gyeongsangbuk-do, 054; Gyeongsangnam-do, 055; Daegu, 053; Busan, 051; Gangwon-do, 033; Jeju-do, 064. Drop the zero in front of the city/region code when dialing from overseas.

Business Hours -- Banks: Monday through Friday 9am to 4pm. Major department stores: Daily 10:30am to 8pm with extended hours on weekends. Smaller shops: Hours vary, but usually early morning to late evening; stores catering to younger people generally stay open until 10pm; neighborhood convenience stores often stay open until midnight. Restaurants: Most open daily from 10am to 10pm. Government offices are open weekdays from 9am to 6pm, closed on Saturdays and Sundays.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 20 (or more specifically Jan 1 of the year the person turns 20, since everyone is considered a year older when the year turns). Bars and nightclubs generally open from 6pm to midnight daily with longer hours (some opening from noon to the early-morning hours) on Friday and Saturday. In some areas of Seoul (like in Itaewon or Hongik) and other large cities, some bars stay open 24 hours. Beer and soju (South Korea's infamous vodka-like liquor) are widely available in grocery and convenience stores, while wine is more likely to be found at specialty wine shops. Traditional Korean liquors (like makgeolli) can be found in traditional restaurants and some trendy bars. Alcohol is sold in department stores, supermarkets, and convenience stores.

There are no open-container laws in South Korea, so you may see plenty of people enjoying their beverages on the beach, picnicking in the park, or walking out of a bar. However, don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Most of South Korea is on a 220-volt, 60-cycle system (the plugs with two round prongs), but a few major hotels have 110-volt, 60-cycle systems. Check before plugging in any electronics. It's very difficult to find universal plug adapters, so it's best to buy your own before you arrive.

Embassies & Consulates -- The following are in Seoul: U.S. (tel. 02/397-4114; http://seoul.usembassy.gov), U.K. (tel. 02/3210-5500; http://ukinkorea.fco.gov.uk/en), Canada (tel. 02/3455-6000; www.korea.gc.ca), and Australia (tel. 02/2003-0100; www.australia.or.kr). There are Honorary British (tel. 070/7733-1055), Canadian (tel. 051/246-7024), and Australian (tel. 051/647-1762) consulates in Busan.

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 112 anywhere in the country for the police. Dial tel. 119 for the fire department and medical emergencies, or tel. 1339 for medical emergencies (although most operators speak only Korean). Hotel staff can also arrange for a doctor or an ambulance.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Among the oil companies in South Korea, the most prevalent are SK and GS. You will also see S-oil and Hyundai Oilbank gas stations, although a bit less frequently. A liter of unleaded will cost you between W1,500 and W1,720. All gas stations are full-service. Rest stops are frequent between cities, and most have gas stations, but do be careful not to put LPG (diesel) fuel into your regular vehicle.

Hospitals -- There are many hospitals in the larger cities where some English is spoken, but they are harder to find in rural areas. The following is a list of hospitals in Seoul with international clinics: Samsung Medical Center (tel. 02/3410-0200), Sinchon Severance (tel. 02/361-6540), Asan Medical Center (tel. 02/2224-3114), Kang Buk Samsung Medical Center (tel. 02/723-2911), Hannam-dong International Medical Center (tel. 02/790-0857), Seoul Foreign Medical Center (tel. 02/796-1871), Samsung First Medical Center (tel. 02/2262-7071), Yeouido Catholic Medical Center (tel. 02/789-1114), Gangnam Catholic Medical Center (tel. 02/590-1114), CHA General Hospital (tel. 02/558-1112), Soonchunhyang Hospital (tel. 02/709-9881), and Seoul National University Hospital (tel. 02/760-2890).

Insurance -- Although South Korea is a safe place to travel, you may consider purchasing travel insurance, especially if you plan on traveling for an extended period.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- South Korea's Internet connectivity is legendary as it leads the world in Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) hot spots. However, the plethora of hot spots doesn't mean that they're friendly to travelers. Many high-end hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers offer high-speed Wi-Fi access for free or for a small fee. Internet service is offered in public places such as airports, train stations, and bus terminals. PC bahngs (PC rooms), where you can rent an Internet-connected PC, are usually populated by gaming enthusiasts (that is, young, nerdy males), and Internet cafes are easy to find throughout the country. Love motels in large cities and popular tourist destinations often offer in-room PCs with high-speed Internet.

Language -- Korean is the official language of South Korea. Although most schoolchildren learn rudimentary English starting from elementary school, your regular Korean on the street will not be able to speak it. The government has taken great pains to make sure English signs and announcements are available on subways, city streets, and highways, but bus signs, menus, and other signage are usually only in Korean. Consider picking up a Korean-English dictionary and/or phrase book, such as the Lonely Planet Korean Phrase Book.

Legal Aid -- If you need legal assistance, contact your embassy or consulate immediately. Although they aren't lawyers, they may be able to refer you to an English-speaking attorney. If you're arrested, you're not entitled to your one phone call. Although the police are required to contact your embassy, they may do it in writing, which may take up to a week.

Mail -- Post offices in South Korea can be easily spotted by their red signs with a white symbol of three stylized swallows on it, and they say POST OFFICE in English. They're open 9am to 6pm Monday through Friday. International rates are as follows: postcards W350; airmail letter up to 10 grams W480; printed matter up to 20 grams W500; and registered mail up to 10 grams W1,780. Airmail to North America takes about 5 to 10 days, but delays are not uncommon. For sending packages overseas, UPS (tel. 02/1588-6886; www.ups.com), Federal Express (tel. 080/023-8000; www.fedex.com/kr_english), and DHL (tel. 02/716-0001; www.dhl.co.kr) have branch offices in Seoul and a few other major cities. Within South Korea, a postal code is recommended but mail will be delivered without it.

Newspapers & Magazines -- English versions of two Korean newspapers, the Korean Herald (www.koreaherald.co.kr) and The Korea Times (www.koreatimes.co.kr), can be found at convenience stores; street stalls; hotels; or bus, train, and subway terminals for about W600. News magazines issued abroad can be found in most large hotel bookstores, but for more specialized journals or periodicals, visit the major bookstores in larger cities.

Police -- Dial tel. 112 anywhere in the country for the police. Police stations are clearly marked in English.

Smoking -- Although South Korea has one of the highest smoking rates in the world, the government has been aggressive in its antismoking campaign in the past several years. Smoking is banned in public buildings, hospitals, schools, subway platforms, bus stops, office hallways, and restrooms. Smoking is also banned in stadiums. You can smoke outside or in designated smoking rooms. Restaurants, cafes, Internet cafes, and similar establishments of certain sizes are required to provide nonsmoking areas. Women smoking used to be taboo. Although more and more females smoke these days, rarely are they seen smoking in the open outside of clubs, bars, and restaurants. If you're caught violating the smoking ban, you may be fined up to 100,000 Korean won.

Taxes -- Value-added tax (VAT) is levied on most goods and services at the standard 10% rate and usually included in the retail price. You can receive a refund on your VAT if you purchase your item at a shop with a TAX-FREE SHOPPING sign. Ask for a Global Refund Cheque payment slip at the time of your purchase. You can get your refund, within 3 months of purchase, at the Cash Refund Office located at Gate 28 of Incheon Airport.

Time -- South Korea is 9 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). The country does not observe daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Tipping is not customary in South Korea, but feel free to do so if you've received extraordinary service. In most tourist hotels, a 10% service charge is added to your bill (on top of the VAT). In some major restaurants, a 3% to 10% service charge may be added to your bill. When you're riding a taxi, it's not necessary to tip the driver, but do let him keep the change.

Toilets -- There are free public restrooms available at most subway stations, bus terminals, train stations, and tourist attractions. However, many restrooms vary from the usual Western-style toilets to the traditional squat toilets on the floor (the worst being the ones in old temples, which are usually just squat pits). Since not all of them provide toilet paper or paper towels, it's best to carry a small packet of tissues with you at all times. You can buy them at any corner store or in vending machines outside some restrooms for about W500. American-style fast-food restaurants, large department stores, bookstores, and hotels have the best public restrooms.

Water -- Drinking tap water in South Korea is not recommended, although mountain water is considered healthy by Koreans. Filtered or bottled water is always available in restaurants and you can buy a bottle at convenience stores, usually for about W500.

Getting Around

By Plane

There are two large national airlines that operate domestic flights, Korean Airlines (tel. 02/1588-2001; www.koreanair.com) and Asiana Airlines (tel. 02/1588-8000; http://us.flyasiana.com). The majority of domestic flights are serviced out of Seoul's Gimpo Airport, which is reachable by Seoul subway or to and from Incheon Airport via the high-speed AREX train. Other international airports include Busan's Gimhae, Jeju International Airport, Daegu, Gwangju, Cheongju, and Yangyang. Domestic airports include those in Yeosu, Sacheon, Ulsan, Pohang, Gunan, and Wonju.

Budget airlines offer flights to and from Jeju-do and the mainland. Jeju Air (tel. 02/1599-1500; www.jejuair.net) provides flights from Gimpo and Busan's Gimhae airports to and from Jeju-do. Jin Air (tel. 02/3660-6000; www.jinair.com) has only flights to and from Gimpo and Jeju-do.

By Car

Driving around Seoul (and Busan, too) can be a hair-raising experience and is not recommended. However, driving in the rest of South Korea is easier, although not the most economical way to get around. Car rentals start at around W70,000 per day. Prices are cheaper if you rent multiple days, of course. You have to be at least 21 years old and have an International Driving Permit (IDP), which you can get in your home country before you leave. Most rental agencies will ask that you show your regular driver's permit as well. In the U.S. only two authorized organizations provide IDPs -- the American Automobile Association (www.aaa.com) and American Automotive Touring Alliance (through the National Automobile Club) (tel. 800/622-7070; www.thenac.com). The AAA charges $15 for an IDP, which you can get at any of their offices or by mail.

The best place to rent a car in advance is online from the KTO website (http://english.tour2korea.com) or in person at the Incheon Airport. Check prices at South Korea's largest car-rental company, Kumho-Hertz (tel. 02/155-1230; www.kumhorent.com), or Avis (www.avis.co.kr).

A safer option for Seoul is to rent both a car and a driver, which cost about W75,000 for 3 hours and W142,000 for 10 hours. Your hotel concierge should be able to help you. Some high-end hotels also have their own limousine service.

The minimum driving age is 18 for cars and 16 for motorcycles.

Unfortunately, there are no detailed driving maps in English, though the KTO will provide a country map showing major highways and roads. Luckily, most highways and major cities have street signs in both Korean and English.

South Korean cities are connected via an extensive network of toll expressways run by the Korea Expressway Corporation. There are very few exits (which means, if you missed an exit for your town, you may have to wait for the next town to get off the highway). If you plan on doing extensive driving around the country, we recommend getting a Hi-pass, an electronic toll pay system, available at highway business offices, major highway rest stops, many gas stations, and some shopping malls. The Hi-pass not only allows you to pass through tollbooths without having to stop, but also provides a 5% to 50% discount depending on where and when you travel. You can load the card with amounts ranging from W10,000 to W480,000, which can be topped up at any bank. There is an initial W5,000 deposit. Make sure you get a rental car with an OnBoard Unit (OBU) to be able to use your Hi-pass. OBUs are available where Hi-passes are sold as well as some banks, including Hana Bank, Shinhan Bank, and the Industrial Bank of Korea, but not worth the W128,000 for one, if you're on a short trip.

The speed limit is generally 60kmph (37 mph) on regular roads, 80 to 100kmph (50 to 62 mph) on expressways, and 30kmph (19 mph) near schools and hospitals. Be sure to follow posted speed limits, even though other drivers may not, since Korean police can be harsher to foreigners. Watch your speed especially on expressways, which are littered with speed cameras. Although you won't see any traffic cops, you may get an unfortunate surprise in the mail after your speeding vacation.

Painted blue lines (usually on the left side of the road) are bus lanes. Buses are given priority in these lanes during rush hours (weekdays 7am-9pm, 7am-3pm on Sat). Bus lanes on expressways are in effect 9am to 11pm daily.

Always fasten your seatbelt or risk the chance of a W30,000 fine. One exception to this rule is that you don't have to wear a seatbelt in the back seat of a taxi (buckle up in the front seat, however). It's illegal to drive while talking on a cellphone unless it's a hands-free set.

Gas and LPG (diesel) stations are readily available throughout the country, but prices are by the liter and can be expensive for long-distance driving. At the time of writing this book, gas was W1,400 to W1,900 per liter.

Outside of holiday times, driving to Chuncheon in Gangwon-do takes about 2 to 3 hours from Seoul, Cheongju in Chungcheongbuk-do takes about 3 hours, Daegu takes 2 to 3 hours, Gyeongju takes about 5 hours, and Busan takes about 6 hours. Travel to Suwon is only about an hour and a half, to Daejeon in Chungcheongnam-do about 2 hours, Jeonju 4 hours, and about 4 hours to Gwangju. Jeju-do can accessed only by boat or plane. (Although you can take your car to the island by ferry for a ridiculously high fee, it's best to rent a car when you get to the island.).

By Train

Traveling by train can be the most comfortable way to get around the larger cities. If you're planning on extensive rail travel in the country, I recommend getting a voucher for a KR Pass in your home country before you leave, since these passes are not available for purchase in South Korea. Once you arrive, you'll need to exchange the voucher in Seoul for the actual pass, which is good for unlimited travel on the railways. The KR Passes are good for rides during consecutive days in increments of 3 ($76/£38), 5 ($115/£58), 7 ($145/£73), and 10 ($166/£83) days. A Saver Pass can be purchased for two to five people traveling together at a 10% discount. Those 24 and under can get a Youth Pass for 20% less. Check the Korean Railroad website (www.korail.go.kr) for more info or contact STA Travel (tel. 800/777-0112 or 02/733-9494 in Seoul; www.statravelgroup.com). In Seoul, STA Pass vouchers can be exchanged for train tickets at Kises Tour, located in the YMCA Building, Suite 505, Jongno 2-ga. Take Seoul subway line 1 to Jonggak Station, exit 3 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm; Sat 9am-3pm). Be sure to purchase the pass at least 5 days in advance of travel.

There are three types of trains in South Korea, the fastest of which is the bullet train, the KTX. The KTX (Korea Train Express; http://ktx.korail.go.kr/eng) has two lines with stops in major cities. The Gyeongbu line goes to Busan (Seoul to Busan tickets are W44,800) in under 3 hours via Daejeon and the Honam line, which travels through west Daejeon, and ends at Gwangju (W33,300 from Seoul) or Mokpo (W37,200 from Seoul). You can also buy individual tickets for the cheaper Saemaeul (first-class) or Mugunghwa (second-class) trains.

You can purchase tickets up to 2 months in advance or as close as an hour before departure. I recommend buying tickets in advance for weekend or holiday travel because fares sell out quickly. Tickets are available online, at most travel agents in Seoul, or at ticket counters and automatic ticket machines at the station.

One of the most popular lines is the Jung-anseon, which runs southeast from Seoul's Cheongnyangni Station to Busan, stopping at Wonju, Jecheon, Danyang, Pung-gi, Yeongju, Andong, Yeongcheon, Gyeongju, and Ulsan along the way. Another way to get to Busan by train from Seoul is via the Gyeongbuseon (the Gyeongbu Line), which has stops in some western cities like Cheonan, Jochiwon, and Daejeon, before curving east toward Gimcheon, Dongdaegu, Samrangjin, and Gupo before terminating at Busan.

From Daejeon, the Honamseon goes all the way to Mokpo, with stops at Seodaejeon, Nonan, Iksan, Jeongup, and Songjeong-li along the way. From Iksan, the Jeollaseon runs to Jeonju, Namwon, Gurye, and Suncheon with a terminus at Yeosu. From Songjeong-li, a line runs east through Gwangju, Suncheon, Jinju, and Masan and ends at Samrangjin, which connects to the Gyeongbu line.

From Cheonan, the short Janghang line runs out to Janghang. From Seoul's Cheongnyangni, the even shorter Gyeongchun line provides trains to Chuncheon. An east-west route connects Jochiwon to Taebaek, crossing the Jung-ang line at Jecheon with a stop at Jeungsan. The Taebaek line connects Taebaek to Gimcheon, passing through Mungyeong and Yeongju on the Jungang line. A short rail line connects Dongdaegu and Yeongcheon, as well.

By Bus

Buses are the least expensive way to get around South Korea and even the smallest of towns will have bus service, albeit infrequent. Express buses to major stations originate from either the Seoul Express Bus Terminal, 19-4 Banpo-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/535-4151), or the Central City Terminal, 19-4 Banpo-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/6282-0114), next door. To get to smaller stations, generally those outside the larger cities, you can change buses or take a direct bus from one of Seoul's smaller bus stations. You can contact the Korean Express Bus Lines Association (tel. 02/536-6460, ext. 2, 24 hr.; www.exterminal.co.kr) for schedules and other info.

Express buses to the Gyeongnam area (Gyubu Line), Chungcheong area (Guma line), and Gangwon-do (Yeongdong Line) start from the Seoul Express Bus Terminal. Buses on the Honam Line that go to Jeolla-do to the south and the Namhaeseon (southern coastal line) start from the Central City Terminal.

Buses from the DongSeoul Bus Terminal, 546-1 Guui-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/446-8000), go primarily north and east from Seoul. You can catch a bus to Andong, Gangneung, Sokcho, and Wonju from here. Also, buses from this terminal take the scenic (but longer) route to Seoraksan National Park in Gangwon-do.

The Nambu Bus Terminal, 1446-1 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/521-8550), services mostly the southern region. Popular destinations from this station include Osan, Pyongtaek, and Songnisan National Park.

Buses from the Sangbong Bus Terminal, 83-1 Sangbong-dong, Jungnang-gu, Seoul (tel. 02/435-2122, ext. 8), go generally east and north. You can get to Chuncheon and Sokcho from this station.

Most cities and large towns within South Korea have their own bus terminals in the center of town. Goseok buses travel long distances and make few, if any, stops between cities. Shiwe buses operate between shorter distances and make more frequent stops.

Even the smallest of towns will have some sort of bus service operated by the local government. Bus drivers generally don't speak English, so it's best to know the Korean name of your destination. Fares vary, but usually range from W900 to W1,100 per trip, so be sure to carry small bills and change for frequent bus trips. Cities like Seoul and Busan have passes that operate on subways or trains.

By Subway

Subway systems are the most efficient and easiest way to get around the large cities. Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Gwangju, and Daejeon each have their own systems.

By Taxi

Taxis in South Korea are safe, clean, and relatively inexpensive. Most Korean taxi drivers will know a modicum of English, but it's best to know your destination in Korean, or even better to have it written down in Korean (Hangeul). You can flag down a taxi almost anywhere in the country, but it's easiest to grab a taxi in front of major transportation hubs. All taxis are metered with fares determined by distance and time. If you don't see a meter in the taxi, you probably want to take a different one. Tipping is not necessary, but most passengers round up and let the driver keep the change. There are two types of taxis in major cities, but most smaller towns will have only regular taxis available.

Regular (Ilban) Taxis are usually silver, blue, or white and have a light-up "taxi" sign on top. The base fare is usually around W1,900 and goes up every 2km (1 1/4 miles), going up W100 every 144m (1/10 mile) or 41 seconds.

Deluxe (Mobeum) Taxis, which are black, cost almost twice as much as the regular taxis, but can be convenient for many reasons. The drivers are trained to serve foreigners and can speak basic English. Especially useful for business travelers, deluxe taxis have free phone service, take credit cards, and will offer a receipt.

By Ship

Traveling on the water can be a fun and interesting way to see lesser-known parts of South Korea. Major ferry terminals are located in Busan (tel. 051/660-0256), Incheon (tel. 032/880-7530), Jeju-do (tel. 064/720-8500), Mokpo (tel. 061/240-6011), Yeosu (tel. 061/663-0117), Tongyeong (tel. 055/642-0116), Geoje (tel. 051/660-0256), and Pohang (tel. 054/242-5111). Busan, Incheon, Mokpo, and Donghae ferry terminals offer international travel while the other ferry terminals are dedicated to domestic destinations, usually nearby islands off the coasts.

By Bicycle

South Korea is not a country easily explored solely on two wheels, but there are some excellent biking opportunities, especially for mountain bikers. Biking on city streets can be extremely dangerous because there are no dedicated bicycle lanes and bus, taxi drivers, and truck drivers regard traffic rules more as suggestions than laws. In Seoul, however, the mayor introduced a bike program in late 2009 in which they will create a citywide bike-rental system and expand trails, starting from those in Han River Park and expanding to Namsan and the city center. The pilot program started in Yeouido and Sangam Digital Media City. Bike rentals along the Han River, which has miles and miles of trails on both sides, costs W3,000 per hour (W6,000 for tandems). Unmanned bike-rental kiosks, run by such companies as Victek and Initus, allow people to rent bicycles using a credit card. Cities like Daejeon and Busan are following Seoul's lead.

If you're bringing your bike into the country, collect it from the oversized luggage pickup at the airport. Taking your bike is much easier on buses than on the train, since trains have no storage capability for bicycles.

Since about 60% of South Korea's terrain is mountainous, it can make for exciting or exhausting rides. However, Gyeongju and Jeju-do are some of the best places to pedal and enjoy the scenery.

Independent tour guide Victor Ryashencev offers a 5-day eco-tour of hiking and biking on Jeju Island (www.earthfoot.org/kr.htm). He will take groups as small as 2 people and up to 10 and he's flexible for tours of any length. Ibike (www.ibike.org/ibike) offers three biking itineraries in South Korea.

On Foot

South Korea is not a country that can be explored solely on foot, although Simon Winchester, author of Korea: A Walk Through the Land of Miracles, attempted it. Even he resorted to some hitchhiking and free rides to cover the territory. However, travelers who love to walk or hike will find no shortage of places to stretch their legs. Be sure to pack comfortable shoes.

If the throngs of Koreans on mountain trails are any indication, hiking is the unofficial sport of South Korea. Weekends are filled with Seoulites walking the trails around the city as well as getting out to far-flung places. So, if you want to avoid the crowds, weekdays are your best bet.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

South Korea is not the best equipped for accessible travel. However, in Seoul and other major cities, this is changing, albeit slowly. Most subway stations in Seoul now have elevators and public restrooms with wheelchair access and handrails. And there's a plan to have half of Seoul's buses equipped with wheelchair ramps by the end of 2012. Most of the high-end hotels are accessible, but sidewalks and certain attractions are not. Many tourist attractions, especially those run by the government, offer discounts (and sometimes free entry) to people with disabilities. Some even provide a wheelchair (a passport is required) or an assistant. An accessible map of Seoul is available from the KTO offices and more info is available at www.easyaccess.or.kr.

At Busan's Gimhae airport, Braille maps are provided on the first floor of both terminals for visually impaired travelers and all toilets are wheelchair accessible. Lifts are available in both terminals.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents with experience in accessible travel. Travel agencies such as Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) offer customized tours and itineraries.

Mobility-Advisor (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities. Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an Avis Cares program that offers services for customers with special travel needs.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information for those with disabilities and elderly people.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications). In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, South Korean cellphone carriers use a different, highly specialized system, called CDMA, which is not compatible with GSM technology. Of special note, South Korea just began sales of iPhones at the end of 2009, and there are high hopes that compatibility issues will be diminished with incoming foreign phones.

For now, if you have a GSM mobile phone, you can rent a "SIM-compatible" handset from KTF and insert your phone's SIM card into the rental phone. KTF will charge you a cheaper rental fee (W1,300) per day and you'll be billed any roaming charges directly from your home cellphone carrier.

Call your wireless operator and ask to get the code to "unlock" your phone and to activate international roaming on your account. Some American and Canadian cellphone companies offer a loaner phone that has CDMA technology. Note that international roaming charges can be exorbitant, from $1 to $5 per minute.

For many, renting a phone is a better option. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). For advice on whether your phone will work overseas, call InTouch at tel. 703/222-7161 from 9am to 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Two companies rent cellphones in South Korea. For both, you must reserve online (http://english.tour2korea.com) before you arrive. South Korea manufactures some of the best cellphones in the world and you will be amazed at the clarity of the calls and the availability of service around the country.

SK Telecom has a customer center at Incheon Airport (tel. 02/1566-2011; 24 hr.) on the first floor of the passenger terminal between exits 6 and 7. They also have a location at the Gimpo Airport (tel. 02/1566-2011; daily 7am-11pm) on the first floor of the international terminal on the opposite side of the arrival gates. Their location at Busan's Gimhae Airport (tel. 02/1566-2011; daily 7am-9:30pm) is on the first floor of the international terminal, across from the departure gates. You need to provide a credit card for deposit and your fee will be due when you return the phone, which you can do at any of the SK Telecom's three airport locations.

You can also rent a mobile phone from KTF Global Roaming Centers, which has more locations than SK Telecom. At Incheon Airport (tel. 02/2190-1180; 24 hr.), they're on the first floor of the passenger terminal between exits 10 and 11. At Busan's Gimhae Airport (tel. 02/2190-1180; daily 9am-9pm), you can find them on the first floor of the arrival hall, right next to the information desk. They also have a location at Busan International Port (tel. 02/1588-0608; daily 7am-7pm) on the first floor, near the check-in counter. In Jeju City, they have an office at Jeju KTF Members Plaza (on the first floor of Sung Woo B/D, Leedo-2-dong, Jeju City; tel. 064/711-8016; weekdays 9am-6pm, closed holidays). Their Gwangju Airport location (tel. 064/1588-0608; daily 7am-8pm) is on the second floor, near the departure gates.

Phones from either company cost W3,000 per day to rent (W2,000 if you sign up as a T2K member for free at http://english.visitkorea.or.kr). Domestic calls cost W100 per 10 seconds and international rates vary. All fees do not include the 10% VAT.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than W100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as W30 per minute.

Internet/E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- Internet service is offered in public places such as airports, train stations, and bus terminals in South Korea. PC bahngs (PC rooms), where you can rent an Internet-connected PC, usually populated by gaming enthusiasts (that is, young, nerdy males), and Internet cafes are easy to find throughout the country. Many PC bahngs are open 24 hours and some have snack bars that offer beverages, noodles, and other food. Just look for the letters PC around town. Most of them are on higher floors in commercial buildings.

Many love motels, especially in metropolitan areas, offer high-speed Internet access with an in-room computer. Just be sure to ask for an Internet room when you check in.

To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercafe.com and www.world66.com/netcafeguide.

With Your Own Computer -- South Korea's Internet connectivity is legendary as it leads the world in Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) hot spots. However, the plethora of hot spots doesn't mean that they're friendly to travelers. Many high-end hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots. Since the majority of Wi-Fi hot spots are owned by previously government-controlled Korea Telecom (KT), it's best to get a prepaid Wi-Fi card, available at the KT Plaza at Incheon Airport (in the middle of the second floor; daily 7am-8pm). Prepaid cards come in W3,000 and W12,000 denominations and expire after a few months. The former is good for 60 minutes of access within a 24-hour period, while the latter allows unlimited access. For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and most hotels in South Korea offer free or low-cost, high-speed Internet access.

Bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out if your hotel supplies them. Most of South Korea is on a 220-volt, 60-cycle system (the plugs with two round prongs), but a few major hotels have 110-volt, 60-cycle systems. Be sure you have the right adapter before plugging in your computer. The universal adapter is virtually impossible to find once you're in South Korea, but they may have some at E-Mart (Korea's Wal-Mart) or the Electronic Market.

The South Korean government censors certain types of websites, including pornography and political sites. Generally, though, you shouldn't have any trouble accessing content online.

Telephones

To call South Korea:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 82.

3. Dial the city code (2 for Seoul, 51 for Busan) and then the number.

For example, if you are calling KTO Tourist Information Center in Seoul from the U.K., you would dial 00-82-2-729-9497. Phone numbers in South Korea are either seven or eight digits long (not including the area code).

To make international calls: First dial 001, 002, or 008 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 001-1-202-588-7800. The numbers to dial out for mobile phone carriers vary (for example, 00345, 00365, 00388, 00700, 00727, 00766, and 00770). If you're renting a Korean cellphone, find out the international dialing number from your mobile phone company.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 114 if you're looking for a number inside the country (tel. 0077 for an international operator). You can also call the Korea Travel Phone (tel. 1330).

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance, dial tel. 0077 if you're trying to make an international call and tel. 114 if you want to call a number in South Korea.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 800 within South Korea are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from South Korea is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Pay Phones

There are three kinds of public phones in South Korea -- ones that take coins, phone cards, and credit cards. Coin phones will give you change, but only up to W100 coins. Telephone cards can be purchased in small shops near phone booths, convenience stores, or banks and can be used for both local and international calls. Cards come in denominations of W2,000, W3,000, W5,000, or W10,000. A local call costs W70 for 3 minutes, with intercity and long-distance calls costing considerably more. Credit card phones allow you to use your credit card instead of a phone card.

Voice Over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe. The people you're calling must also use the service for it to work (or otherwise there is an additional charge); check the sites for details. You can also use iChat or AIM to use a webcam to talk to anyone in the world.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although an increasing number of Koreans are coming out of the closet every day, most gays and lesbians keep their orientation a secret from their families and co-workers, even as younger generations become more tolerant than their parents. Gay and lesbian travelers who publicize their orientation should expect some shock and even some hostile reactions.

However, you will see same-sex friends walking around hand-in-hand or arm-in-arm. Public display of physical affection between same-sex friends is actually more common than between heterosexual partners.

Seoul, Busan, and Daegu have gay neighborhoods with clubs, bars, and saunas, but they generally maintain a low profile. Seoul even has a GLBT Film Festival and a Queer Culture Festival (tel. 0505/336-2003; www.kqcf.org). Visit www.utopia-asia.com (click on the "Korea" link) for in-depth information and current events.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent successor to the popular Out & About magazine. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

Tips on Accommodations

There are a wide range of accommodations in South Korea, from very inexpensive minbak (guesthouses) and love motels to luxury hotels, condos, and pensions.

When you're booking a room, make sure to specify that you want a Western-style room, if you want a bed. Korean ondol-style rooms don't have beds, but include blankets for you to sleep on the floor, which is usually heated during cold weather. If you stay in one, make sure you don't leave any electronics or anything plastic on the floor.

Outside of high-end hotels, most accommodations require you to take off your shoes at the front-entry area before entering the room. Bathrooms in lower-priced accommodations usually don't have shower curtains -- water flows down a drain in the floor.

Youth Hostels

South Korea has an extensive hostel network (about 70 locations throughout the country). Contact the Korea Youth Hostels Association, Room 408, Jeokseon, Hyundai Building 80, Jeokseon-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 110-756 (tel. 02/725-3031; fax 02/725-3113; www.kyha.or.kr), for additional information and membership requirements. Most hostels are open 24 hours and have dormitory-style shared rooms. Prices range from about W5,000 to W25,000 for a bed.

Motels for Lovers

In back alleys, on side streets, and along country roads lie discreet love motels, aimed primarily at those who are married and having extramarital affairs, and at young couples desperate for some privacy (most Koreans live at home until they get married). Many have obvious names like Hotel Venus, but others can be more obscure. A sure sign of one is the curtains that cover the parking area (to avoid having anyone recognize your car, they'll even give you a placard to cover your license plate) and the dimly lit lobby (usually red, but sometimes with colored lights).

But despite these slightly sleazy trappings, many of these places are just fine for tourists, particularly those on a budget. They are inexpensive, ranging from W30,000 to W50,000, depending on the day of the week. For a little extra, you can often get an in-room Jacuzzi or sauna. All of them supply toothbrushes, shampoo, lotions, and even condoms. Some of them have round beds with extras like mood lighting, vibrating options, and strategically placed mirrors. And most provide Internet access and in-room movies. If you don't mind the connotations, they're often clean and safe places to stay. It's also an experience you won't soon forget! I've made note of a few I can safely recommend throughout the book.

Tips for Families

South Korea can be a great place to travel with family, since many hotels offer family suites and there are plenty of things for kids to do and see.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents.