Planning a trip to South Pacific

When to Go

The Climate

The South Pacific islands covered in this guide lie within the tropics. Compared to the pronounced winters and summers of the temperate zones, there is little variation from one island group to the next: They are warm and humid all year.

Although local weather patterns have changed in the past 20 years, making conditions less predictable, local residents recognize a cooler and more comfortable dry season during the austral winter, from May to October. The winter trade wind blows fairly steadily during these months, bringing generally fine tropical weather throughout the area. Rarotonga in the Cook Islands and Tongatapu in Tonga are farther from the equator and see cooler temperatures. Breezy wintertime nights can feel chilly in those islands.

The austral summer from November through April is the warmer and more humid wet season. Low-pressure troughs and tropical depressions can bring several days of rain at a time, but usually heavy rain showers are followed by periods of intense sunshine. An air-conditioned hotel room or bungalow will feel like heaven during this time of year. This is also the season for tropical cyclones (hurricanes), which can be devastating and should never be taken lightly. Fortunately, they usually move fast enough that their major effect on visitors is a day or two of heavy rain and wind. If you're caught in one, the hotel employees are experts on what to do to ensure your safety.

Another factor to consider is the part of an island that you'll visit. Because moist trade winds often blow from the east, the eastern sides of the high, mountainous islands tend to be wetter all year than the western sides.

Also bear in mind that the higher the altitude, the lower the temperature. If you're going up in the mountains, be prepared for much cooler weather than you'd have on the coast.

The Busy Season

July and August are the busiest tourist months in the South Pacific. That's when Australians and New Zealanders visit the islands to escape the cold back home. It's also when residents of Tahiti head to their own outer islands, in keeping with the traditional July-August holiday break in France. Many Europeans also visit the islands during this time.

There also are busy miniseasons at school holiday time in Australia and New Zealand. These periods vary, but in general they are from the end of March through the middle of April, 2 weeks in late May, 2 weeks at the beginning of July, 2 weeks in the middle of September, and from mid-December until mid-January. You can get a list of Australian holidays at www.oztourism.com.au (click on the "Holiday dates" link); for New Zealand go to www.tourism.org.nz (the "Utilities and Holidays" link).

Some South Pacific hoteliers raise their rates during the busy periods.

Christmas through the middle of January is a good time to get a hotel reservation in the South Pacific, but airline seats can be hard to come by, as thousands of islanders fly home from overseas.

Holidays & Special Events

I list each country's festivals and special events, which can change the nature of a visit to the South Pacific. The annual Heiva Nui in French Polynesia, the Heilala Festival in Tonga, and the National Self Governing Commemoration in Rarotonga are just three examples, and every country has at least one such major celebration. These are the best times to see traditional dancing, arts, and sporting events. Be sure to make your reservations well in advance if you want to visit at celebration time, for hotel rooms and airline seats can be in short supply.

When the Moon Is Full

The islands are extraordinarily beautiful anytime, especially so at solstice time in late September and late March, when the sun's rays hit the lagoons at just the right angle to highlight the gorgeous colors out in the lagoons. The play of moonlight on the water, and the black silhouettes the mountains cast against the sky, make them even more magical when the moon is full. Keep that in mind when planning your trip -- especially if it's your honeymoon.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Children are cared for in the South Pacific's extended family systems, and so are senior citizens. Most islanders live with their families from birth to death. Consequently, local governments don't provide programs and other benefits for persons of retirement age. You won't find many senior citizen discounts. Children get them; seniors don't.

Nevertheless, mention the fact that you're a senior citizen when you first make your travel reservations. Some airlines and many chain hotels offer discounts for seniors.

Elderhostel, 75 Federal St., Boston, MA 02110-1941 (tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org), arranges study programs for those ages 55 and older (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries. Most include airfare, modest accommodations, meals, and tuition. One recent trip included a 2-week cruise to the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Tips for Women Travelers

The South Pacific islands are relatively safe for women traveling alone, but don't let the charm of warm nights and smiling faces lull you into any less caution than you would exercise at home. Do not wander alone on deserted beaches. In the old days this was an invitation for sex. If that's what you want today, then that's what you're likely to get. Otherwise, it could result in your being raped.

And don't hitchhike alone, either.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Getting There

The only practical way to, from, and among the islands is by air. Even though you can board a jetliner in Los Angeles or Sydney in the evening and be strolling under the palm trees of Tahiti by the crack of dawn, the distances are quite vast. So be prepared for long flights: 10 1/2 hours or more from Los Angeles to Fiji, 7 1/2 hours to Tahiti from Los Angeles or Sydney. It takes even longer from the U.K. and Europe.

Because populations are small, flights are not nearly as frequent to and among the islands as we Westerners are used to at home. There may be only one flight weekly between some countries, and flights scheduled today may be eliminated tomorrow. The local airlines have relatively few planes, so mechanical problems can cause delays.

Only a handful of the outer-island airstrips are lighted, so there are few connecting flights after dark. Consult a travel agent or contact the airlines to find out what's happening at present.

Reserve Early & Reconfirm -- Planes do not always fly between all the island countries every day in this sparsely populated, far-flung region. When planning your trip, therefore, first find out the airlines' schedules, which will determine the dates you can travel.

By all means book your domestic inter-island flights well in advance. You may not get on a plane at all if you wait until you arrive in the islands to take care of this important chore.

Although it's unnecessary for international flights, and for domestic flights within French Polynesia, always reconfirm your return flight as soon as you arrive on an outer island within Fiji, the Cook Islands, Samoa, American Samoa, and Tonga. Avoid booking a return flight from an outer island on the same day your international flight is due to leave for home; give yourself plenty of leeway in case the weather or mechanical or scheduling problems prevent the plane from getting to and from the outer island on time.

The Airports

Each island country has just one main international airport: Nadi (NAN) in Fiji; Papeete (PPT) on Tahiti in French Polynesia; Rarotonga (RAR) in the Cook Islands; Apia (APW) in Samoa; Pago Pago (PPG) in American Samoa; and Tongatapu (TBU), the main island in Tonga. Only Nadi (pronounced Nahn-dee) has enough international traffic to be considered a regional hub.

The Airlines

Here, in alphabetical order, are the airlines with service to the islands (their phone numbers are in the U.S. unless otherwise noted):

• Air New Zealand (tel. 800/262-1234 or 310/615-1111; www.airnewzealand.com) flies between Auckland and all the island countries. It serves many other New Zealand cities and several in Australia, so Kiwis and Aussies can reach the islands either nonstop or by changing planes in Auckland. It's the only airline flying nonstop from Los Angeles to the Cook Islands, Samoa, and Tonga (the planes stop there on their way between Los Angeles and Auckland). It has service from Los Angeles to Fiji and Tahiti, although the planes are flown by Air Pacific and Air Tahiti Nui , on a code-share basis. It links the U.K. and Europe to Los Angeles, where passengers connect to the islands. It also flies from Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Seoul, Taipei, and Beijing to Auckland, with connections from there to the islands. It is a member of the Star Alliance, which includes United Airlines and several other carriers.

• Air France (tel. 800/321-4538; www.airfrance.com) flies to Tahiti from Paris, and from London to Los Angeles, where you can connect to Tahiti.

• Air Pacific (tel. 800/227-4446; www.airpacific.com), Fiji's international airline, has extensive service to Nadi from Sydney, Brisbane, and Melbourne in Australia, and Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch in New Zealand. It flies its own planes 6 days a week between Nadi and Los Angeles, a service it code-shares with Air New Zealand and Qantas , and once weekly between Vancouver, B.C., and Nadi via Honolulu. One of its Nadi-Honolulu flights stops in Christmas Island in the central Pacific. It code-shares with American Airlines, which provides feeder service from many U.S. and Canadian cities to Los Angeles. Within the region, it links Nadi to Samoa and Tonga, and it goes west to Vanuatu and Solomon Islands. It also provides nonstop service between Fiji and Japan.

• Air Tahiti Nui (tel. 877/824-4846; www.airtahitinui.com), French Polynesia's national airline, has more flights -- all on relatively new Airbus planes -- between Tahiti and Los Angeles than any other airline. Some of those depart early afternoon California time and arrive in Papeete before dark, so you can connect to Moorea that evening. Most return flights are overnight, but you arrive in Los Angeles early enough in the morning to make convenient connections. It also flies between New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport and Papeete. On the other end, the New York-Tahiti plane keeps going to Sydney in Australia. Air Tahiti Nui also links Paris, Tokyo, and Auckland to Papeete, and it has service between Paris and Tahiti via Los Angeles.

• Airlines Tonga (tel. 26-125 in Tonga; tetatour@kalianet.to), the only domestic carrier in Tonga, has been flying twice a week between Nadi and Vava'u, which would be handy for whale-watchers and sailors headed to Vava'u. This service can be difficult to book, however, so let your whale-watching or yacht charter firms make your flight arrangements.

• Hawaiian Airlines (tel. 800/367-5320 in the continental U.S., Alaska, and Canada, or 808/838-1555 in Honolulu; www.hawaiianair.com) flies from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Portland, and Seattle to Tahiti and to American Samoa. You must change planes in Honolulu, which can result in delays and even an unexpected Hawaiian layover. Samoans heavily book the Pago Pago flights from June through August and during holiday periods, so make your reservations as soon as possible.

• Korean Air (tel. 800/438-5000; www.koreanair.com) has service between Seoul and Fiji. Although it's a longer distance, a connection through Seoul can be quicker from the U.K. and Europe than flying through Los Angeles.

• LAN Chile (tel. 800/735-5526; www.lan.com) flies at least weekly between Santiago, Chile, and Tahiti by way of Easter Island.

• Pacific Blue (tel. 13-16-45 in Australia; 0800/67-0000 in New Zealand; www.flypacificblue.com), the international subsidiary of the Australian cut-rate airline Virgin Blue (itself an offshoot of Sir Richard Branson's Virgin Atlantic), has low-fare service from Australia and New Zealand to Fiji, the Cook Islands, and Tonga. It also flies to Samoa as Polynesian Blue .

• Polynesian Airlines (tel. 21-261 in Samoa; www.polynesianairlines.com), the national carrier of Samoa, connects its home base at Apia to American Samoa.

• Polynesian Blue (tel. 13-16-45 in Australia; 0800/67-0000 in New Zealand; www.polynesianblue.com), a successful joint venture between Polynesian Airlines and Pacific Blue, has low-fare service to Samoa from Sydney and Auckland.

• Qantas Airways (tel. 800/227-4500; www.qantas.com), the Australian carrier, has flights from several Australian cities and Fiji, and between Los Angeles and Fiji (its Fiji-bound passengers fly on Air Pacific planes).

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Don't even think about bringing your pet. Every country will quarantine Fido until you are ready to fly home.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages for the Independent Traveler

In addition to searching for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Buying a package is a way to get the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and even meals and activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices -- kind of like one-stop shopping. In fact, package tours usually provide the best bargains, especially to expensive French Polynesia.

Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours, which are structured tours with a group leader. Few escorted tours go to the South Pacific islands except as add-ons to tours primarily of Australia and New Zealand.

The costs are kept down because wholesale tour operators (known as wholesalers in the travel industry) can make volume bookings on the airlines and at the hotels. Packages traditionally were then sold through retail travel agents, but many wholesalers now deal directly with the public, thus passing savings along to you, rather than part of their commissions to retail agents.

Travel packages are listed in the travel section of many Sunday newspapers. Or check ads in magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Airlines frequently offer air-and-hotel packages, so check the Web sites of Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com/vacations) Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com), Air Tahiti Nui (www.airtahitinui.com), Qantas Airlines www.qantasvacations.com), and the other South Pacific carriers.

Some local tourism information offices have information about agencies selling packages to their countries. For example, Tahiti Tourisme provides links to many money-saving packages to French Polynesia on its North American website (www.tahiti-tourisme.com).

Ask Before You Go -- Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

• Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is there a deposit required?
• Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also find out what types of rooms are offered.
• Discuss what is included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and so on).
• Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

International Tour Agents -- Following in alphabetical order are some reputable American-based companies selling package tours. Some will discount air tickets and hotel rooms separately; that is, not as part of a package. Be sure to shop for the best deal among them.

• Blue Pacific Vacations (tel. 800/798-0590; www.bluepacificvacations.com), a division of France Vacations, is headed by John Biggerstaff and Ken Jordan, two veterans of Tahiti tourism. They will customize tours to most French Polynesian islands.

• Brendan Worldwide Vacations (tel. 800/421-8446 or 818/785-9696; www.brendanvacations.com) provides packages to Fiji and French Polynesia.

• Costco Travel (tel. 877/849-2730; www.costco.com) sells island packages to Costco members. The agency was a South Pacific specialist before Costco bought it.

• GoGo Worldwide Vacations (tel. 617/734-2350; www.gogovacationdeals.com), headquartered in Massachusetts, specializes in French Polynesia.

• Go-Today (tel. 800/227-3235; www.go-today.com), based in Washington State, offers discount-priced packages to Fiji, French Polynesia, and the Cook Islands.

• Islands in the Sun (tel. 800/828-6877 or 310/536-0051; www.islandsinthesun.com), the largest and oldest South Pacific specialist, offers packages to all the islands.

• Jetabout Island Vacations (tel. 800/348-8145; www.jetabouttahitivacations.com) of El Segundo, California, offers a wide variety of packages to Fiji and Tahiti. It's the U.S. representative of Qantas Vacations.

• Journey Pacific (tel. 800/704-7094; www.journeypacific.com) is a Las Vegas-based agency offering packages to all of the islands.
• Newmans South Pacific Vacations (tel. 800/421-3326; www.newmansvacations.com) offers packages to the islands, including Samoa and Tonga. It's a long-established New Zealand company.

• Pacific Destination Center (tel. 800/227-5317; www.pacific-destinations.com) is owned and operated by Australian-born Janette Ryan, who offers some good deals to the islands.

• Pacific for Less (tel. 800/915-2776; www.pacific-for-less.com), based in Hawaii, has reasonably priced packages to French Polynesia, although its specialty is high-end honeymoons.

• Pleasant Holidays (tel. 800/742-9244; www.pleasantholidays.com), a huge company best known for its Pleasant Hawaiian and Pleasant Mexico operations, offers packages to Fiji and French Polynesia.

• South Pacific Direct (www.southpacificdirect.com) is an Internet-only firm offering deals to all the islands.

• South Seas Adventures (tel. 800/576-7327; www.south-seas-adventures.com) has packages to Samoa and Tonga as well as Fiji, French Polynesia, and the Cook Islands.

• Swain Tahiti Tours (tel. 800/22-SWAIN [227-9246]; www.swaintours.com) obviously knows a lot about Tahiti and French Polynesia, but it also sells packages to Fiji and the Cook Islands.

• Sunspots International (tel. 800/334-5623 or 503/666-3893; www.sunspotsintl.com), based in Portland, Oregon, has trips to all the islands. It has particular expertise in the Cook Islands, Samoa, and Tonga.
• Tahiti Discount Travel (tel. 877/426-7262; www.tahiti-discounttravel.com) is owned by former employees of the defunct Discover Wholesale Travel, once the leader in budget packages. Today they arrange some of the lowest-priced packages to French Polynesia.

• Tahiti Legends (tel. 800/200-1213; www.tahiti-legends.com) is run by former officials of Islands in the Sun. It sells tours to French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, and Fiji under the names Pacific Legends (www.pacificlegends.com).

• Tahiti Vacations (tel. 800/553-3477; www.tahitivacation.com), a subsidiary of Air Tahiti, French Polynesia's domestic airline, specializes in French Polynesia but also has packages to Fiji, the Cook Islands, and Tonga. It frequently offers the least-expensive packages available to Tahiti and Moorea.

• Travel Arrangements Ltd. (tel. 800/392-8213; www.southpacificreservations.com) is operated by Fiji-born Ron Hunt, a veteran South Pacific travel agent based in California. He sells packages to all the islands and specializes in designing itineraries (and weddings) to suit your whims and pocketbook.

• Travelwizard (tel. 800/330-8820; www.travelwizard.com) specializes in designing luxury travel packages to all the islands but also has less expensive offerings. It also has adventure, diving, and surfing trips to Fiji and French Polynesia.

Other companies have adventure travel packages combining outdoor activities with accommodations.

Local Tour Operators -- Another tactic is to check with the South Pacific inbound tour operators. These companies are in the islands and usually put together the local elements of tour packages such as hotel rooms and airport transfers. They have the advantage of being on the scene and thus familiar with the local airlines and hotels. Some sell directly to inbound visitors as well as other tour companies.

In Fiji, two small companies specialize in discount travel arrangements: Impulse Fiji (tel. 800/953-7595 in the U.S.; 672-0600 in Fiji; www.impulsefiji.com) and Sun Vacations (tel. 672-4273 in Fiji; www.sunvacationsfiji.com).

In French Polynesia, Tahiti Nui Travel (tel. 46.40.10 in Tahiti; www.tahitinuitravel.com) has a variety of local packages, while True Tahiti Vacations (tel. 310/464-1490 in the U.S.; www.truetahitivacation.com) is operated by American-born Laurel Samuela, who lives on Moorea.

In the Cook Islands, Island Hopper Vacations (tel. 22-026 in Rarotonga; www.islandhoppervacations.com) books hotels and puts together local packages, as does Jetsave Travel (tel. 27-707 in Rarotonga; www.jetsave.co.ck), which is owned by American ex-pat Malynnda Morrisette, who lives in the Cooks.

Oceania Travel & Tours is good in Samoa (tel. 24-443 in Apia, inside the Hotel Kitano in Tusatala.

In Tonga, I highly recommend Pacific Travel Marketing (tel. 28-304; sales@pacifictravelmarketing.afe.to) for both hotel and airline reservations.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader (I prefer the old-fashioned term "tour guide"). The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Escorted tours are not a big part of the business in these small islands, where it's easy to find your way around and book local tours and activities. Most of the travel agents I mention under "Packages for the Independent Traveler," above, will have someone meet and greet you at the airport upon arrival, take you to your hotel, and make sure you get on any prearranged tours and activities, but you will not have a tour guide.

Some tour companies add a short stop-over in Fiji or Tahiti to their escorted tours of Australia and New Zealand, but these may not include a guide for the island portion. Leaders in this add-on feature include Tauck Tours (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com), Qantas Vacations (tel. 800/641-8772; www.qantasvacations.com), Australia Escorted Tours (tel. 888/333-6607; www.australia-escorted-tours.com), and Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/652-7986; www.abercrombiekent.com), which adds Fiji and French Polynesia to its high-end escorted tours. Otherwise, I recommend getting a travel agent to track down an escorted tour.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They're convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Special-Interest Trips

Although outdoor activities take first place in the islands, you can also spend your time learning a new craft, exploring the reefs as part of a conservation project, and whale- and dolphin-watching.

Bird-Watching -- Avid bird-watchers are likely to see terns, boobies, herons, petrols, noddies, and many other seabirds throughout the islands. French Polynesia alone has 28 species of breeding seabirds, making memorable a visit to Motu Puarua and Motu Oeone, tiny islets out in Tikihau's lagoon, where noddies and snowy white fairy terns nest.

The number and variety of land birds diminishes as you go eastward. Most live in the bush away from settlements and the accompanying cats, dogs, and rats, so you will need to head into the bush for the best watching.

With 26 endemic species, Fiji has more diversity than the other island countries. Many are on display in Kula Eco Park (tel. 650-0505; www.fijiwild.com), on Fiji's Coral Coast. Taveuni island is best for watching in Fiji, with more than 100 species including the rare orange dove, which lives high on Des Veoux Peak. Savusavu on Vanua Levu is also good, especially the nearby Waisali Rainforest Reserve. Daku Resort in Savusavu (tel. 885-0046; www.dakuresort.com) hosts bird-watching tours hosted by veteran Fiji watcher Robin Mercer.

In French Polynesia, Société d'Ornithologie de Polynésie (Ornithological Society of Polynesia; tel. 50.62.09; www.manu.pf) lists local birds on its website.

In the Cook Islands, the Takitumu Conservation Area on Rarotonga is home to the rare kakeroi, which has recovered from near-extinction status.

A few companies have bird-watching tours to the South Pacific, including the U.K.-based Bird Quest (tel. 44/1254-826317; www.birdquest.co.uk) and Birdwatching Breaks (tel. 44/1381-610495; www.birdwatchingbreaks.com).

Educational Courses -- In addition to bird-watching, Daku Resort, in northern Fiji (tel. 885-0046; www.dakuresort.com) hosts weeklong courses in such subjects as novel writing, sketching, painting, quilting, and gospel singing. The courses are organized by creative-writing teacher Delia Rothnie-Jones (she and husband John own the resort). They have special package rates for the courses and will help you arrange air transportation to Fiji.

Ecotravel Tours -- The Oceanic Society (tel. 800/326-7491; www.oceanicsociety.org), an award-winning organization based in California, has natural history and ecotourism expeditions to the islands. A naturalist accompanies its annual 11-day snorkeling trip to the pristine reefs off Taveuni and Namena islands in northern Fiji. The trip includes village visits and bird-watching.

Seacology (tel. 510/559-3505; www.seacology.org), a California-based organization dedicated to preserving island cultures and environments, has an annual trip to Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort and occasionally to Samoa.

Fiji Adventures (tel. 888/418-4461; www.fijiadventures.com) offers several packages, one of which combines several cultural activities offered in Fiji such as river rafting, cave and waterfall visits, and a trip into Viti Levu's interior. The packages do not include airfare, but they save you from having to arrange each activity after you arrive in Fiji.

Formerly known as Tui Tai Adventure Cruises, environmentally and culturally friendly Active Fiji (www.tuitai.com, or www.activefiji.com) uses a 140-foot sailing schooner to explore out-of-the-way islands in northern Fiji. The boat goes to Fijian villages and carries bikes as well snorkeling and diving gear.

Based in London but with an office in the U.S., the nonprofit Greenforce (tel. 0207/470-8888 in London, 740/416-4016 in the U.S.; www.greenforce.org) sends expeditions to help survey Fiji's coral reefs for the World Conservation Society. They'll even teach you to dive while you're there. The trips last from 6 to 10 weeks. Check the website for prices.

Whale- & Dolphin-Watching -- Whale- and dolphin-watching are popular activities throughout the South Pacific. Dolphins live here year-round, and humpback whales escape the cold of Antarctica and spend from July until October giving birth to their calves in the tropical South Pacific. They can be seen swimming off many islands, but the prime whale-watching venue is off Vava'u, in Tonga, where you can actually swim in the water alongside these magnificent mammals. Several companies on Vava'u will organize visits.

The California-based Oceanic Society (tel. 800/326-7491; www.oceanicsociety.org) has 1-week whale-watching trips to Tonga in September. Cost is about US$3,000 per person. You must be experienced snorkeler to swim with the whales.

The best dolphin-watching experiences are on Moorea in French Polynesia, where American marine biologist Dr. Michael Poole leads daylong excursions to visit some of the 150 spinner dolphins he has identified as regular residents. Honeymooners love to have their pictures taken while swimming with the intelligent mammals in a fenced-in area at Moorea Dolphin Center, at the Inter-Continental Resort & Spa Moorea.

Tips for Single Travelers

Having traveled alone through the South Pacific for more years than I care to admit, I can tell you it's a great place to be unattached. After all, this is the land of smiles and genuine warmth toward strangers. The attitude soon infects visitors: All I've ever had to do to meet my fellow travelers is wander into a hotel bar, order a beer, and ask the persons next to me where they are from and what they have done in Fiji, Tahiti, and so on.

The two hottest destinations for singles -- especially those of backpacking age -- are Fiji and the Cook Islands. Fiji has dozens of resorts aimed at this low-budget market.

Even couples-oriented French Polynesia has a playground especially suited to singles: The Club Med on Bora Bora.

Unfortunately, the solo traveler is often forced to pay a "single supplement" charged by many resorts, cruise lines, and tours for the privilege of sleeping alone.

TravelChums (tel. 212/799-6464; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion-matching service hosted by respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Based in Canada, Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com) runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge and save you the cost of single supplements.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Pasports

All South Pacific countries require each new arrival to have a passport that will be valid for 6 months beyond the duration of the visit, as well as an onward or return airline ticket. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

I always keep a copy of the critical pages, with my passport number, in a separate place. The United States has embassies in Fiji and Samoa. The governor of American Samoa can issue a temporary U.S. replacement passport. Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom have high commissioners in Fiji, Samoa, and Tonga.

Note that every individual who travels by air must have his or her own passport, regardless of age.

Medical Requirements

The only vaccination required anywhere in the South Pacific is for yellow fever, and then only if you're coming from an infected area of South America or Africa.

Customs

Each island country has its own Customs laws.

What You Can Take Home from the South Pacific -- Some South Pacific governments restrict the export of antique carvings and other artifacts of historic value. If a piece looks old, check before you buy. Jewelry made of shells and of pink or black coral is available in many countries, as is scrimshaw, but items made of black coral and whalebone cannot legally be brought back to the United States and most other Western countries.

U.S. citizens who have been in the South Pacific for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free (US$1,200 from American Samoa). For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov (click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure"). Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Islands in Brief

Most of the islands covered in this book are part of the Polynesian Triangle, which stretches across the vast Pacific Ocean from Hawaii to New Zealand to Easter Island. With the exception of Fiji, they are variations on an overall cultural theme. Each has its own identity, yet each is fundamentally Polynesian. Sitting on the border between Polynesia and the Melanesian islands to the west, Fiji has its own culture blending elements from both areas. The Fijians also share their islands with East Indians, who add a starkly contrasting culture to the mix.

Let's take a quick tour to see what each island country or territory contributes to this smorgasbord.

Fiji

Because its international airport at Nadi is the region's major transportation hub, Fiji is a prime place with which to begin or end a trip to the South Pacific. In fact, more than twice as many people visit Fiji each year as come to any other South Pacific island destination.

This lush country of 300-plus islands has something for everyone -- from lying on some of the region's best beaches to diving on some of the world's most colorful reefs, from cruising to intriguing outer islands to hiking into the mountainous interior.

Although its beaches aren't the best in Fiji, the Nadi area is home to Denarau Island, a tropical resort with an 18-hole golf course, a tennis center, a marina, several large hotels, and a small shopping mall. From Denarau you can cruise out to the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands, all little specks of land that are home to fine beaches, a host of watersports, and a wide range of offshore resorts.

The Queen's Road goes south from Nadi to the Coral Coast, Fiji's first resort area and still host to several family-oriented resorts, and to Pacific Harbour, site of a cultural center and golf course. Known as the Adventure Capital of Fiji, Pacific Harbour is the departure point for rafting trips on the Navua River and to the island of Beqa (pronounced Beng-ga), whose surrounding lagoon proffers some of its best diving and snorkeling.

The Queen's Road ends in Suva, Fiji's cosmopolitan capital city. Suva gives a glimpse through its rainy climate of the era when Great Britain ruled here. A 10-minute flight from nearby Nausori Airport will whisk you to the island of Ovalau, where the country's first European-style town, Levuka, still looks like it did in the late 1800s, before the government moved the capital to Suva.

Up in Northern Fiji, Savusavu and Taveuni will transport you back in time to the Fiji of colonial coconut plantations. Between them lies the Somosomo Strait, home to the Great White Wall and its Rainbow Reef, as well as other world-class dive sites.

Fiji has the South Pacific's most fascinating mix of peoples. A bit more than half the population are friendly, easygoing Fijians, most of whom still live in traditional villages surrounded by vegetable gardens. About 38% are industrious -- and sometimes abrasive -- Fiji Indians whose ancestors came from India to work the sugar-cane plantations that make Fiji the most self-sufficient of the South Pacific countries. Although the contrasting cultures have resulted in political unrest and four coups since 1987, it also makes this an interesting place to get into a conversation.

French Polynesia

If there is a "major league" of dramatically beautiful islands, then Tahiti and her French Polynesian sisters dominate it. This is especially true of Moorea and Bora Bora, which provide Hollywood with many of its choice "stock shots" of glorious tropical settings. Moorea's jagged, shark's-teeth ridges serrate the horizon like the back of some primordial dinosaur resting on the sea just 20km (12 miles) west of Tahiti. One of the world's most romantic honeymoon destinations, Bora Bora is famous for its world-class lagoon, out of which rises the main island topped by the dramatic, tombstonelike Mt. Otemanu.

High and well watered, Tahiti is the largest of the French Polynesian islands and was the first to be discovered by European explorers in the late 18th century. A great majority of the territory's population lives on Tahiti, especially in and around Papeete, the capital. Today this busy little city has so many cars, trucks, and motor scooters that it can take up to 2 hours to commute to work from the outlying regions. Although Papeete has lost much of its old South Seas charm, Tahiti's rural areas still display aspects of traditional Polynesia.

Even more of Old Polynesia exists on the territory's third-most-beautiful island, Huahine, which locals call "wild" because of its undeveloped status. Here you can explore some of the region's most important archaeological sites. The adjacent islands of Raiatea and Tahaa are even more natural. The two islands are enclosed by one large lagoon, making them French Polynesia's prime sailing grounds.

Off to the northeast, the line of atolls known as the Tuamotu Archipelago boasts French Polynesia's top scuba diving destinations. Rangiroa, which encloses the world's second-largest lagoon, is known for its clear waters, which are home to thousands of sharks. Sitting next to Rangiroa, Tikehau is considerably smaller, and its one international-standard resort sits on an islet all to itself. Also much smaller and shallower than the lagoon at Rangiroa, the fish-filled lagoon at Manihi makes it the world's largest producer of black pearls. Farther afield, Fakarava possesses the world's third-largest lagoon, most of it a marine preserve.

Even farther afield are the beautiful Marquesas Islands, made famous by TV's Survivor series.

Thanks to tons of francs poured in by the French government, the territory is the most developed, and has the highest standard of living, of any South Pacific island country. The flip side of that is that everyone pays high prices for almost everything, residents and visitors alike. Indeed, French Polynesia is the most expensive South Pacific destination. As one resident of these gorgeous islands says, "Here, you must pay for the view."

The Cook Islands

Only 800km (497 miles) west of Tahiti (virtually next door in this part of the world), the tiny Cook Islands have much in common with French Polynesia, both in physical beauty and people.

Barely 32km (20 miles) around, Rarotonga is a miniature Tahiti in terms of its mountains, beaches, and reefs -- but in terms of development, it's like Tahiti was some 50 years ago. Unlike Papeete, however, the capital of the Cook Islands, Avarua, remains a quiet little backwater, a picturesque village without a stoplight. Yet no other South Pacific destination has as many hotels, restaurants, daytime activities, and nightclubs packed into so small a space as does Rarotonga.

Among the outer islands, Aitutaki bears the same relationship to Rarotonga as Bora Bora does to Tahiti. A small central island sits at the apex of a shallow but spectacular aquamarine lagoon fringed by some of the region's whitest, talcumlike sand beaches. Long a backwater, Aitutaki is now a thriving destination. It's worth at least a day trip to Aitutaki just to take a lagoon excursion out to the little islands fringing the reef.

The Cook Islanders share with the Tahitians a fun-loving lifestyle, many old Polynesian legends and gods, and about 60% of their native language. The Cooks were governed by New Zealand from 1901 until 1965 and still are associated with New Zealand. Consequently, most Cook Islanders speak English fluently, which makes it easy for English-speaking travelers to take advantage of the South Pacific's most informative cultural tours and exhibits. They also pay less for almost everything and use the New Zealand dollar as their local currency, which means the Cooks are more affordable than French Polynesia.

Samoa

Once known as Western Samoa, the independent nation of Samoa is like a cultural museum, especially when compared with its much smaller cousin, American Samoa. The peoples of both are related by family and tradition, if not by politics. Samoan culture still exists in the American islands, and it is preserved to a remarkable degree in Samoa, relatively unchanged by modern materialism. Traditional Samoan villages, with their turtle-shaped houses, rest peacefully along the coasts of the two main western Samoan islands, Upolu and Savai'i. Although Samoa has been experiencing a good economy, time seems to have forgotten some of the weather-beaten, clapboard buildings that distinguish Apia, the country's picturesque capital. Although tourism is not a major industry, the country has three luxury beach resorts from which you can fan out and meet the friendly Samoans. Experiencing their culture and visiting their truly remarkable and undeveloped beaches (one of which was the setting for the Gary Cooper movie Return to Paradise) are highlights of any visit. You can even sleep right on the sands in one of the country's numerous beach fales (small, open-air huts).

American Samoa

Tutuila, the main island in American Samoa, rivals the dramatic beauty of Moorea and Bora Bora in French Polynesia. The mountains drop straight down into fabled Pago Pago, the finest harbor in the South Pacific and the main reason that the United States has had a presence there since 1890. This American influence has resulted in a blend of cultures: the Samoan emphasis on extended families and communal ownership of property, especially land, and the Western desire for business and progress. The result of the latter is that Pago Pago harbor is dominated -- and polluted -- by two large tuna canneries, and large stacks of shipping containers often block the splendid views. The road around the harbor is often clogged with vehicles as American Samoans rush past their traditional villages on their way to American-style shopping centers.

Tonga

From his Victorian palace in Nuku'alofa, King George V of Tonga rules over a nobility that carries European titles but is in reality a pure Polynesian system of high chiefs. Despite grumbling among his subjects in recent years (some of them rioted in 2006, burning much of the capital), the king, his family, and the nobles control the government and all the land, of which they are obligated to provide 3.4 hectares (8 1/2 acres) to every Tongan adult male.

While the relatively flat main island of Tongatapu offers little in the way of dramatic beauty, the adjacent lagoon provides excellent boating, snorkeling, fishing, and diving. By contrast, hilly Vava'u presents long and narrow fjords and a plethora of deserted islands; these features make it one of the South Pacific's leading yachting and whale-watching centers. Neiafu, the only town on Vava'u, is a reminder of the old days of traders and beach bums.

Indeed, Tonga is the heart of the South Pacific "Bible Belt." Things are slow on Sunday in most island countries, but they stop almost completely in Tonga -- except for church, picnics at the beautiful beaches, and escapes to resorts on tiny islets offshore.

Money

I always bring a mix of cash, credit and debit cards, and traveler's checks. It's impractical to change cash into most island currencies before leaving home, so my first stop upon arrival is at an airport ATM or exchange counter to get enough local cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and hotel transfer.

How much money you will need depends to a large extent on which islands you decide to visit and which currency you use. French Polynesia is far and away the most expensive, with costs comparable to or exceeding most major U.S. cities. This is especially so for those of us spending depressed U.S. dollars, because the French Polynesian currency is pegged to the Euro. Prices are more reasonable in the Cook Islands, though they will seem relatively expensive to New Zealanders. Samoa and Tonga are the least expensive, with Fiji in between. Overall, the islands will cost more than most Southeast Asian destinations.

Currencies

The Cook Islands use New Zealand dollars (NZ$ in this book, or NZD in bank lingo), and American Samoa spends U.S. dollars (US$, or USD). Other South Pacific countries have their own currencies -- Fiji dollars (F$ or FID), French Pacific francs (CFP or XFP), Samoan tala (S$, WST, or SAT), and Tongan pa'anga (T$ or TOP).

To find up-to-the-minute exchange rates, go to www.xe.com.

U.S., Australian, and New Zealand dollars are widely accepted (euros, too, in French Polynesia), and the local banks will change other major currencies.

You'll get a better exchange rate at a bank or currency exchange shop than at a hotel or store. Most banks charge a set fee to change notes and traveler's checks, which can wipe out the advantage if you're changing small denominations.

Small Change -- When I change money (or after I've withdrawn local currency from an ATM), I ask for some small bills, as petty cash comes in handy for public transportation (South Pacific taxi drivers never seem to have change for large bills). I keep my small money separate from my larger bills, so it's readily accessible while my big notes are less of a target for thieves. I also go first to WestPac Bank's ATMs, which usually dispense smaller notes than those at ANZ Bank (they are the major banks out here).

Getting Rid of Your Leftover Currency -- Use your leftover currency to pay part of your hotel bill when leaving the South Pacific. Put the rest on your credit card. It will save you the trouble of having to change it at the airport.

ATMs

Automated teller machines (ATMs), sometimes referred to as "cash machines" or "cashpoints," are becoming more widespread in the islands and are the easiest way to get local currency. I tell you in the "Fast Facts" section whether an island has ATM machines. Be sure to read this information -- or check with the banks or tourist offices in the main towns -- before heading off cashless to an outer island.

The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks are present in the islands.

I carry two debit (that is, "cash" or "check") cards so that if one doesn't work in a bank's ATM, I have a backup. I use them to get local cash for two reasons: I get a better exchange rate than if I had changed traveler's checks, and I avoid the local banks' exchange fees.

Visa and MasterCard tack a 1% currency conversion fee to every debit card withdrawal, and many banks add up to 5% as their own "foreign transaction fee." In addition, many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be even higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more). Ask your bank about its international withdrawal fees.

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) for each card before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Four-digit PINs work in the islands.

Credit Cards

You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high withdrawal fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. In addition to the fees, you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your bills on time.

On the other hand, you can use MasterCard and Visa cards to charge your expenses at most island hotels, car-rental companies, restaurants, and large shops. Many also accept American Express. Only the major hotels and car-rental firms accept Diners Club, however; and none takes Discover cards. Always ask first, and when you're away from the main towns, don't count on putting anything on plastic.

Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency). I use my Capital One credit card because it charges no foreign transaction fee, nor does it have an annual fee. Read your card member agreement -- or call the customer service department -- for charges.

Credit Card Add-Ons -- Many island businesses add 3% to 5% to your bill if you use a credit card, while others may offer a similar discount for cash payments. Credit card issuers frown on the add-ons, but the locals do it anyway. Always ask if there's an add-on or discount.

Traveler's Checks

I seldom use them, but I carry a few hundred U.S. dollars in traveler's checks in case the local ATM runs out of cash or is on the blink. You can get traveler's checks at most banks in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or tel. 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Tips for Student Travelers

The South Pacific islands have one of the most developed backpacker industries in the world, especially in Fiji and the Cook Islands.

You won't find any student discounts, however, so a student ID card won't do you much good in the islands. If you're going on to New Zealand and Australia, you'd be wise to get an international student I.D. card from the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org), which offers savings on plane tickets. It also provides basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people. The card offers some discounts (but not on museum admissions).

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for Canada and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Both high school and university students can participate in summer community service programs in Fiji organized by Rustic Pathways (tel. 800/321-4353; www.rusticpathways.com).

Tips for Families

The islanders adore infants and young children, but childhood does not last as long in the South Pacific as it does in Western societies. As soon as they are capable, children are put to work, first caring for their younger siblings and cousins and helping out with household chores, later tending the village gardens. It's only as teenagers, and then only if they leave their villages for town, that they know unemployment in the Western sense. Accordingly, few towns and villages have children's facilities, such as playgrounds, outside school property.

On the other hand, the islanders invariably love children and are very good at babysitting. Just make sure you get one who speaks English. The hotels can take care of this for you.

The larger hotels in Fiji and the Cook Islands cater to Australian and New Zealander families with ample activities for all ages. Even some smaller resorts, such as Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort in northern Fiji, welcome families. Although most are oriented for couples, many French Polynesian resorts also welcome children. Best is the Le Meridien Bora Bora.

Some resorts do not accept children at all; I point those out in the establishment listings, but you should ask to make sure. Even if they do, check whether the hotel can provide cribs and other needs, and if they have children's menus.

Disposable diapers, cotton swabs (known as Buds, not Q-Tips), and baby food are sold in many main-town stores, but you should take along a supply of such items as children's aspirin, a thermometer, adhesive bandages, and special medications. Make sure your children's vaccinations are up-to-date. If your children are very small, perhaps you should discuss your travel plans with your family doctor.

Remember to protect youngsters with ample sunscreen.

Other tips: Some tropical plants and animals may resemble rocks or vegetation, so teach your youngsters to avoid touching or brushing up against rocks, seaweed, and other objects. If your children are prone to swimmer's ear, use vinegar or preventive drops before they go swimming in freshwater streams or lakes. Have them shower soon after swimming or suffering cuts or abrasions.

Rascals in Paradise, One Daniel Burnham Court, Suite 105-C, San Francisco, CA 94107 (tel. 415/921-7000; fax 415/921-7050; www.rascalsinparadise.com), specializes in organizing South Pacific tours for families with kids, including visits with local families and children.

Adventures Abroad (tel. 800/665-3998; www.adventures-abroad.com) organizes 1-week family sightseeing tours around Viti Levu in Fiji, including village and market village visits.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Climate change and rising sea levels resulting from global warming are having a noticeable impact on the South Pacific islands. Natives I have known for more than 30 years tell me the seasons are now unpredictable (it's more likely to rain in the dry season, and vice versa), and the tides are higher than ever (in some places the lagoons lap on shore at high tide rather than the beach). Indeed, most islanders don't want to hear any corporate-induced spin about there being no evidence of global warming and its consequences. They know it's true from firsthand experience.

Carbon emissions, the prime cause of global warming, are released into the atmosphere each time you take a flight or drive a car. You can help neutralize this danger to our planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to reduce your carbon emissions by the same amount you've added. Carbon offsets can be purchased in the U.S. from companies such as Carbonfund.org and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and from Climate Care (www.climatecare.org) in the U.K.

Although one could argue that any vacation that includes an airplane flight can't be truly "green," you can go on holiday and still contribute positively to the environment. You can offset carbon emissions from your flight in other ways. Choose companies that embrace responsible development practices, helping preserve destinations for the future by working alongside local people. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a trip and leave as small a "footprint" as possible on the places you visit.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas run by a spokesperson for responsible tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes responsible tourism practices and issues a Green Gear & Gift Guide.

You can find eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Ecotravel.com is part online magazine and part eco-directory that lets you search for touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism and find ways of improving tourism so that local benefits are increased.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of interesting specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins and other outdoor activities, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org) and Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although homosexuality is officially frowned upon by local laws and by some local religious leaders, especially in Fiji, an old Polynesian custom makes the South Pacific a relatively friendly destination for gay men.

In the islands, many families with a shortage of female offspring rear young boys as girls, or at least relegate them to female chores around the home and village. These males-raised-as-girls are known as mahus in Tahiti, magus in Samoa, and fakaleitis in Tonga. Some of them grow up to be heterosexual; others become homosexual or bisexual and, often appearing publicly in women's attire, actively seek the company of tourists. Some dance the female parts in traditional island night shows. You'll see them throughout the islands; many hold jobs in hotels and restaurants.

On the other hand, women were not considered equal in this respect in ancient times, and lesbianism was discouraged.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; fax 954/776-3303; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. MIM Travel (tel. 877/844-8055; www.gay-travel-by-mim.com) recently had a gay cruise aboard the Tahitian Princess, while Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) had one on the Star Flyer (both in French Polynesia). Also check out Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com), a gay Australia tour specialist, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com), offering lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them online: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 37th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with books for gay men and lesbians.

Visitor Information

The best sources for data and maps about the specific island countries are their tourist information offices.

A good source for general information is www.spto.org (formerly the South Pacific Tourism Organization), P.O. Box 13119, Suva, Fiji Islands (tel. 679/330-4177 in Fiji.

The U.S. Department of State maintains a Travel Advisory (tel. 202/647-5225; http://travel.state.gov) to keep you abreast of political or other problems throughout the world and posts travel warnings and other timely information.

The East-West Center at the University of Hawaii gathers news from throughout the islands on its Pacific Islands Report website, http://pidp.eastwestcenter.org/pireport. It's an excellent source for breaking news, and it has links to newspapers, news services, universities, and other useful sites.

Other useful sites for regional news are posted by the Hawaii-based Pacific Magazine (www.pacificmagazine.net) and Fiji-based Islands Business Magazine (www.islandsbusiness.com).

The best place to order quality maps of the region is from Maptown Ltd. (www.maptown.com). The Perry-Castañeda Library at the University of Texas at Austin posts free maps of the region on its website at www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/australia.html. Other free sources are www.mapsouthpacific.com, www.maps-pacific.com, and www.worldatlas.com.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Each island country has its own telephone system. Most are operated by local monopolies and are relatively expensive by Western standards. You can directly dial into and out of all the islands.

Cellphones

Known as "mobiles" here, cellphones are prevalent throughout the islands. No international wireless company operates in the South Pacific, and many American phones won't work because all the islands use the Global System for Mobiles (GSM) technology. Although the technology is gaining in popularity worldwide, only T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use GSM in the U.S. In Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. All Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Call your wireless company to see if your phone is GSM.

If you do have a GSM phone, you may be able to use it in the islands if your provider has a roaming agreement with the local phone companies. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account.

If it doesn't, you may still use your phone (1) if it transmits and receives on the 900 mHz band; (2) if it has been "unlocked" from its SIM card, the removable computer chip which stores your and your provider's information; and (3) if you rent or buy a local SIM card.

The Travel Insider (www.thetravelinsider.info) has an excellent explanation of all this as well as a phone unlocking service. Click on "Road Warrior Resources" and "International Cellphone Service."

Renting a phone or SIM card is easy in the islands. In fact, one of the first things you'll see after clearing Customs at Nadi airport in Fiji is a mobile phone rental booth.

North Americans can rent a phone or SIM card before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to www.intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Internet/E-Mail

E-mail is as much a part of life in the South Pacific as it is anywhere else these days, but most Internet connections are relatively slow. High-speed access is growing, but at best, the ADSL systems operate at 512kb per second. That's a snail's pace compared to the 3 megabytes or more in most Western countries.

Access is relatively expensive. Most local Internet service providers (ISP) charge by the minute rather than by the month, and many hotels slap a large fee on top of that. (My Internet and phone bills for checking my e-mail and bank sites from Tahiti have topped US$50!)

Without Your own Computer -- The easiest way to get your e-mail on the Web is at your hotel, resort, or hostel. Most have computers for guest use. Or you can go to one of the numerous cybercafes in the islands.

With Your Own Computer -- Because no major international ISP has a local access number in the islands, you can't just plug in your laptop, program in the local access number, and go online as you would at home. Nor will you find Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) in most hotels. On the other hand, you can use your own computer from any hotel room with a phone, provided you sign up for a temporary local Internet access account.

There are a growing number of Wi-Fi hotspots in the islands. Many are in coffee shops or hotel bars, so you can sip a cuppa or a cold one while answering your e-mail. The hotspots are not free, and some require that you purchase a prepaid usage card.

Along with your laptop, be sure to bring a connection kit of the right power, plus phone adapters (French in French Polynesia, American in American Samoa, Australian elsewhere) and a spare phone cord.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

• Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
• Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com; www.airlinequality.com)
• Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com)
• Maps (www.mapsouthpacific.com; www.maps-pacific.com; www.worldatlas.com)
• Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
• Travel Warnings (www.travel.state.gov; www.fco.gov.uk/travel; www.voyage.gc.ca; www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice)
• Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc)
• Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com)
• Weather (www.met.gov.fj; www.meteo.pf; www.intellicast.com; www.weather.com; www.accuweather.com; www.wunderground.com)

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling, even in the South Pacific islands, where ramps, handles, accessible toilets, automatic opening doors, telephones at convenient heights, and other helpful aids in Western countries are just beginning to appear.

Some hotels provide rooms specially equipped for people with disabilities. Such improvements are ongoing; I have pointed out some of them in this book, but inquire when making a reservation whether such rooms are available.

The major international airlines make special arrangements for handicapped persons. Be sure to tell them of your needs when you reserve. Although most local airlines use small planes that are not equipped for disabled passengers, their staffs go out of their way to help everyone get in and out of the craft.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to disabled travelers include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-56677]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality) (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com); and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 per year in the U.S.; $22 outside U.S).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com offers a variety of travel resources to disabled persons.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in UK only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a range of travel information and resources for disabled and elderly people.

Health & Insurance

Travel Insurance

I buy travel insurance for my South Pacific trips for three prime reasons. First, the airlines out here have relatively few planes, thus the chances of a canceled or delayed flight are greater than in more populous areas of the world. Second, health care is not up to Western standards in most islands, so I like the idea of having medical evacuation coverage in case of an emergency. And third, there always is a chance that hurricanes or other unforeseen events can seriously disrupt my travel plans between November and March.

Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, cancelled tickets or medical expenses.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

The major U.S. travel insurers are Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com); and Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828 or 202/331-1596; www.travelassistance.com). The latter is a U.S. agent for Europ Assistance (www.europ-assistance.com), one of the largest worldwide travel insurers.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types. Expedia offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages.

Medical Insurance -- I always buy a travel insurance policy that includes both health coverage and medical evacuation in case of life-threatening injury or illness. Otherwise, the cost of a flying ambulance would wipe out my life's savings.

Most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage outside the United States, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com), the U.S. agent for Europ Assistance (www.europ-assistance.com). American Express (www.americanexpress.com) cardholders can sign up for a standing travel policy providing health and medical evacuation coverage whenever they are more than 150 miles from home.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must present in case they are treated overseas.

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to about $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Car-Rental Insurance -- Your own auto insurance policy may cover you for loss or damage to the car and liability in case a passenger is injured. The credit card you used to rent the car also may provide some coverage. Check your own insurance policy, the rental company policy, and your credit card coverage for the extent of coverage.

Even if you have such coverage, rental car companies in the islands are likely to require that you pay for any damages on the scene and sort it out with your insurer or credit card company when you get home. Given the hassles this can cause, I always buy the collision damage waiver and liability policies offered by the local companies. It adds to the cost, but it's a small price to pay for peace of mind.

Staying Healthy

The South Pacific islands covered in this guide pose no major health problems for most travelers, although it's a good idea to have your tetanus, hepatitis-A, and hepatitis-B vaccinations up to date.

If you have a chronic condition, check with your doctor before visiting the islands. For such conditions as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

And don't forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. You can easily replace your contacts and prescription lenses only in French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, and Fiji.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Band-Aids -- Cuts, scratches, and all open sores should be treated promptly in the tropics. I always carry a tube of antibacterial ointment and a small package of adhesive bandages such as Band-Aids.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- Hospitals and clinics are widespread in the South Pacific, but the quality varies a great deal from place to place. You can get a broken bone set and a coral scrape tended, but treating more serious ailments likely will be beyond the capability of the local hospital everywhere except in Tahiti.

You may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S., the U.K., or Europe (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

All the islands have pharmacies and drug stores which carry over-the-counter and prescription medications. Most medications can be purchased without a prescription, but bring your own medications (in your carry-on luggage), in their original containers. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Carry the generic name of medicines, because local pharmacies primarily carry medications manufactured in France, Australia, and New Zealand, and the brand names might be different than in the United States.

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/en/Healthcare/Healthadvicefortravellers/index.htm
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Common Ailments

Among minor illnesses, the islands have the common cold and occasional outbreaks of influenza and conjunctivitis (pink eye).

Tropical Illnesses -- There are plenty of mosquitoes but they do not carry deadly endemic diseases such as malaria. From time to time the islands will experience an outbreak of dengue fever, a viral disease borne by the Adës aegypti mosquito, which lives indoors and bites only during daylight hours. Dengue seldom is fatal in adults, but you should take extra precautions to keep children from being bitten by mosquitoes if the disease is present. (Other precautions should be taken if you are traveling with children.)

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- YOU WILL FIND THAT WE COOK ISLANDERS ARE AMONG THE FRIENDLIEST PEOPLE IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC, a sign in a Cook Island resort advises its guests. AMONGST ALL THE FRIENDLY PEOPLE, WE ALSO HAVE THE FRIENDLIEST ANTS, ROACHES, GECKOS, CRABS, AND INSECTS, WHO ARE ALL DYING TO MAKE YOUR ACQUAINTANCE.

Indeed, the South Pacific islands have multitudes of mosquitoes, roaches, ants, houseflies, and other insects. Ants are omnipresent here, so don't leave crumbs or dirty dishes lying around your room. Many beaches and swampy areas also have invisible sand flies -- the dreaded "no-see-ums" or "no-nos" -- which bite the ankles around daybreak and dusk.

Insect repellent is widely available. The most effective contain a high percentage of deet (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide).

I light a mosquito coil in my non-air-conditioned rooms at dusk to keep the pests from flying in, and I start another at bedtime. Grocery stores throughout the islands carry these inexpensive coils. I have found the Fish brand coils, made by the appropriately named Blood Protection Company, to work best.

Multitudes of Animals -- Don't bother complaining to me about the multitude of dogs, chickens, pigs, and squawking myna birds running loose, even in the finest restaurants. They are as much a part of life as the islanders themselves. And don't be frightened by those little geckos (lizards) crawling around the rafters of even the most expensive bungalows. They're harmless to us humans but lethal to insects.

Sun Exposure -- The tropical sun in the islands can be brutal, even on what seems like an overcast day. Accordingly, it's important to use sunscreen whenever you're outdoors, especially at midday. This is particularly true for children.

HIV/AIDS -- Throughout the islands, sexual relations before marriage -- heterosexual, homosexual, and bisexual -- are more or less accepted (abstinence campaigns fall on deaf ears here). Both male and female prostitution is common in the larger towns. HIV is present in the islands, so if you intend to engage in sex with strangers, you should exercise at least the same caution in choosing them, and in practicing safe sex, as you would at home.

Be Careful in the Water -- Most of the South Pacific's marine creatures are harmless to humans, but there are some to avoid. Always seek local advice before snorkeling or swimming in a lagoon away from the hotel beaches. Many diving operators conduct snorkeling tours. If you don't know what you're doing, go with them.

Wash and apply a good antiseptic or antibacterial ointment to all coral cuts and scrapes as soon as possible.

Because coral cannot grow in fresh water, the flow of rivers and streams into the lagoon creates narrow channels, known as passes, through the reef. Currents can be very strong in the passes, so stay in the protected, shallow water of the inner lagoons.

Sharks are curious beasts that are attracted by bright objects such as watches and knives, so be careful what you wear in the water. Don't swim in areas where sewage or edible wastes are dumped, and never swim alone if you have any suspicion that sharks might be present. If you do see a shark, don't splash in the water or urinate. Calmly retreat and get out of the water as quickly as you can, without creating a disturbance.

Those round things on the rocks and reefs that look like pin cushions are sea urchins, and their calcium spikes can be more painful than needles. A sea-urchin puncture can result in burning, aching, swelling, and discoloration (black or purple) around the area where the spines entered your skin. The best thing to do is to pull any protruding spines out. The body will absorb the spines within 24 hours to 3 weeks, or the remainder of the spines will work themselves out. Contrary to popular advice, do not urinate or pour vinegar on the embedded spines -- this will not help.

Jellyfish stings can hurt like the devil but are seldom life-threatening. You need to get any visible tentacles off your body right away, but not with your hands, unless you are wearing gloves. Use a stick or anything else that is handy. Then rinse the sting with salt- or freshwater, and apply ice to prevent swelling and to help control the pain. If you can find it at an island grocery store, Adolph's Meat Tenderizer is a great antidote.

The stone fish is so named because it looks like a piece of stone or coral as it lies buried in the sand on the lagoon bottom with only its back and 13 venomous spikes sticking out. Its venom can cause paralysis and even death. You'll know by the intense pain if you've been stuck. Serum is available, so get to a hospital at once.

Sea snakes, cone shells, crown-of-thorns starfish, moray eels, lionfish, and demon stingers can also be painful, if not deadly. The last thing any of them wants to do is to tangle with a human, so keep your hands to yourself.

Staying Safe

While international terrorism is a threat throughout the world, the South Pacific islands are among the planet's safest destinations. Tight security procedures are in effect at the major airports, but once you're on the outer islands, you are unlikely to see a metal detector, nor is anyone likely to inspect your carry-on.

The region has seen increasing property theft in recent years, however, including occasional break-ins at hotel rooms and resort bungalows. Although street crimes against tourists are still relatively rare, friends of mine who live here don't stroll off Papeete's busy boulevard Pomare after dark, and they keep a sharp eye peeled everywhere in Fiji. For that matter, you should stay alert wherever you are after dusk.

Don't leave valuable items in your hotel room, in your rental car, or unattended.

Women should not wander alone on deserted beaches any time, as some Polynesian men may consider such behavior to be an invitation for instant amorous activity.

When heading outdoors, keep in mind that injuries often occur when people fail to follow instructions. Hike only in designated areas, swim and snorkel only where you see other people swimming and snorkeling, follow the marine charts if piloting your own boat, carry rain gear, and wear a life jacket when canoeing or rafting. Mountain weather can be fickle at any time. Watch out for sudden storms that can leave you drenched and send bolts of lightning your way.

Tips on Accommodations

The South Pacific has a wide range of accommodations, from resort hotels on their own islands to mom and pop guesthouses and bunk-bedded dorms.

Types of Rooms

My favorite type of hotel accommodates its guests in individual bungalows set in a coconut grove beside a sandy beach and quiet lagoon. If that's not the quintessential definition of the South Seas, then I don't know what is!

Hotels of this style are widespread in the South Pacific. Some in Fiji, French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, and Samoa feature super-romantic bungalows actually standing on stilts over the reef (although I should point out that some of these overwater units tend to be close together and less private than bungalows ashore elsewhere). Others are as basic as camping out. In between they vary in size, furnishings, and comfort. In all, you enjoy your own place. The bungalows are usually built or accented with thatch and other native materials but they contain most modern conveniences.

An increasing number of these accommodations are air-conditioned, which is a definite plus during the humid summer months from November through March. All but a few bungalows have ceiling fans, which usually will keep you comfortable during the rest of the year.

With the exception of French Polynesia, the major tourist markets for the island countries are Australia and New Zealand. Accordingly, the vast majority of hotels are tailored to Aussie and Kiwi tastes, expectations, and uses of the English language.

Unlike the usual U.S. hotel room, which likely has two huge beds, the standard Down Under room has a double or queen-size bed and a single bed that also serves as a settee. The room may or may not have a bathtub but always has a shower. There will be tea, instant coffee, sugar, creamer, and an electric jug to heat water (that's usually what I mean by "coffeemaker" in my hotel descriptions). Televisions and telephones are numerous but not universal, but most hotels have clock radios whose selections are limited to the few stations on the island.

Rooms are known to South Pacific reservation desks as singles if one person books them, regardless of the number and size of beds they have. Singles are slightly less expensive than other rooms. A unit is a double if it has a double bed and is reserved for two persons who intend to sleep together in that bed. On the other hand, a twin has two twin beds; it is known as a shared twin if two unmarried people book them and don't intend to sleep together. Third and fourth occupants of any room are usually charged a few dollars on top of the double or shared twin rates.

Some hotel rooms, especially in Rarotonga and the Cook Islands, have kitchenettes equipped with a small refrigerator (the "fridge"), hot plates (the "cooker"), a water heater (the "jug"), pots, pans, crockery, and utensils. Having a kitchenette can result in quite a saving on breakfasts and light meals.

It Could Pay to Ask for a Local Rate or Discount -- It never hurts to ask politely for a discounted or local hotel rate. Many South Pacific hotels have local rates for islanders, which they may extend to visitors if business is slow. Most pay travel agents and wholesalers 20% or more of their rates for sending clients their way, and some may give you the benefit of at least part of this commission if you book directly instead of going through an airline or travel agent. Some wholesale travel agents reduce the commission and sell directly to the public.

Island Time vs. Island service -- There's an old story about a 19th-century planter who promised a South Pacific islander a weekly wage and a pension if he would come to work on his copra plantation. Copra is dried coconut meat, from which oil is pressed for use in soaps, cosmetics, and other products. Hours of backbreaking labor are required to chop open the coconuts and extract the meat by hand.

The islander was sitting by the lagoon, eating fruit he had picked from nearby trees while hauling in one fish after another. "Let me make sure I understand you," said the islander. "You want me to break my back working for you for 30 years. Then you'll pay me a pension so I can come back here and spend the rest of my life sitting by the lagoon, eating fruit from my trees and the fish I catch? I may not be sophisticated, but I am not stupid."

The islander's response reflects an attitude still prevalent in the South Pacific, where many people don't have to work in the Western sense. Here life moves at a slow pace. The locals call it "island time."

Consequently, do not expect the same level of service rendered in most hotels and restaurants back home. The slowness is not slothful inattention; it's just the way things are done here. Your drink will come in due course. If you must have it immediately, order it at the bar. Otherwise, relax with your friendly hosts and enjoy their charming company.

Surfing for Hotels

The best independent website for South Pacific hotel discount shopping is Fiji-based Travelmaxia.com, where scores of properties throughout the region post their specials. You can search by country for resorts, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, dive operators, and cruises.

The Australian-based Whotif.com (tel. 300/88 7979, 866/514-3281 in the U.S., 0845/458-4567 in the U.K.; www.whotif.com) discounts rooms in Fiji, French Polynesia, and the Cook Islands.

Headquartered in London, Pacific-Resorts.com often has discounted rates for resorts in all the islands.

Backpackers and other budget travelers can book inexpensive rooms and dorm beds at hostels in most island countries at www.hostelworld.com.

In addition to the big online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com; Quikbook (www.quikbook.com); and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net).

Frankly, I always go to the hotels' own sites before booking, as many now offer their own Internet specials, which often beat the big-site prices.

Other websites have reviews and comments about accommodations worldwise. HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering coverage and critiques. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties. (Anyone can post reviews on these sites, including hotel owners themselves and "guests" who have never stayed at a property, so I read them with a proverbial grain of salt.)

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Tips for Black Travelers

Among general sources for African-American travelers, Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include: Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com); the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com); and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957.

Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press) is a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde. The African-American Travel Guide by Wayne C. Robinson (Hunter Publishing; www.hunterpublishing.com) was published in 1997, so it may be somewhat dated. The well-done Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH [7284]; www.pathfinderstravel.com) includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana to upcoming ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.

Fast Facts

The facts in this section apply to the region in general.

Camera and Film -- Color print film and processing is available in all the main island towns. On the other hand, digital camera batteries are difficult to find (I bring a spare). Make sure your digital camera battery charger will work on 220-volt electricity, which is common in the islands. Never pack film -- exposed or unexposed -- in checked bags, because the new, more powerful security scanners can fog film. The film you carry with you can be damaged by passenger scanners as well. X-ray damage is cumulative; the faster the film, and the more times you put it through a scanner, the more likely the damage. Film under 800 ASA is usually safe for up to five scans. On international flights, store your film in transparent baggies, so you can remove it easily before you go through scanners. On the other hand, digital cameras and storage cards are not affected by airport X-rays. Carry-on scanners will not damage videotape in video cameras, but the magnetic fields emitted by the walk-through security gateways and handheld inspection wands will. Always place your loaded camcorder on the screening conveyor belt or have it hand-inspected. Be sure your batteries are charged in all carry-on electronic gear, as you may be required to turn the device on to ensure that it's what it appears to be.

Electricity -- American Samoa uses 110-volt current and flat, vertical plugs identical to those in the U.S. and Canada. Electricity in the other countries is 240-volt, 50 cycles. French Polynesia uses round French-style plugs, while Fiji, the Cook Islands, and Samoa use flat, angled plugs like those in Australia and New Zealand.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

Measurements -- All South Pacific countries except American Samoa are on the metric system.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at www.travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Smoking -- Although antismoking campaigns and hefty taxes have reduced the practice to a large extent, cigarette smoking is still more common in the islands, and especially in French Polynesia, than in most Western nations. Most office buildings and the airlines are smoke-free, but nonsmoking sections in restaurants are rare. Not all hotels have nonsmoking rooms, so don't assume you'll get a nonsmoking room without asking for one.

Taxes -- Hotel rooms are subject to tax everywhere, and most countries impose a hidden "value-added tax."

Time Zones -- The International Dateline runs north-south through the region, placing Fiji and Tonga in the same day as Australia and New Zealand. French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, and the Samoas are a day earlier.

Tipping -- Although tipping is considered contrary to the Polynesian and Melanesian traditions of hospitality and generosity, the practice is widely practiced in the islands. (TIPPING IS NOT ILLEGAL proclaims a sign in a Tahiti restaurant.) Nevertheless, you don't have to tip out here. That's not to say that a gratuity isn't in order for outstanding service. I usually give a small tip to porters who wrestle with my heavy international bags.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory (tel. 202/647-5225, manned 24 hrs.); U.S. Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518); U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline (tel. 404/332-4559).

Water -- Water from the tap is safe to drink in the city of Papeete on Tahiti, on parts of the island of Bora Bora, on Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, and in the main towns in Fiji. To avoid upsetting your intestines, buy bottled spring water at grocery stores (yes, Fiji Water really comes from Fiji).

Tips on Dining

Whether called an "island night" in the Cook Islands, fiafia in the Samoas, or meke in Fiji, traditional feasts and dance shows are essential after-dark ingredients throughout the South Pacific.

Before the Europeans arrived, the typical South Pacific diet consisted of bananas, coconuts, and other fruits. Staples were starchy breadfruit and root crops, such as taro, arrowroot, yams, and sweet potatoes. The reefs and lagoons provided abundant fish, lobsters, and clams to augment the meats provided by domesticated pigs, dogs, and chickens. Taro leaves and coconut cream served as complements. Corned beef has replaced dog on today's menu; otherwise, these same ingredients still make up the menus.

Like their ancestors, who had no crockery, today's islanders prepare their major meals in an earth oven, known as himaa in Tahiti, lovo in Fiji, and imu or umu elsewhere. Individual food items are wrapped in leaves, placed in the pit on a bed of heated stones, covered with more leaves and earth, and left to steam for several hours. The results are quite tasty, with the steam spreading the aroma of one ingredient to the others.

When the meal has finished cooking, the islanders uncover the oven, unwrap the food, and, using their fingers, set about eating their feast of umukai (island food) in a leisurely and convivial manner. Then they dance the night away.

You won't be stuck eating island-style food cooked in an earth oven, however, nor will you be limited to the rather bland tastes of New Zealanders and Australians, which predominate at many restaurants. Wherever the French go, fine food and wine are sure to follow, and French Polynesia is no exception. The East Indians brought curries to Fiji, and chefs trained there have spread those spicy offerings to the other islands. Many chefs in Tonga are from Germany and Italy and specialize in their own "native" food. Chinese cuisine of varying quality can be found everywhere.