Planning a trip to Southern Kenyan Coast
Getting There & Away
Mombasa's airport is a mere 1 1/2 hours away, and daily scheduled flights also arrive at Ukunda airstrip, which is a 5-minute taxi drive from the nearest beach. Safarilink began flying to Diani's Ukanda airstrip in July 2009, and Mombasa Air Safari flies you here for $20 one-way (less than the cost of a road transfer). For information on arranging transfers or taxis from Mombasa to the South Coast, see the "Essentials" section for Mombasa, earlier in this chapter.
Getting Around
Based in Diani, you can get just about anywhere by marching up and down the beach in either direction. At night, if you want to try out the local restaurants or look for nightlife away from your hotel, hire a taxi (best organized through your hotel); some of the restaurants offer free pick-ups. If you want to explore by bike, contact Diani Bikes (tel. 071/395-9668; www.dianibikes.com), an eco-tourism initiative where you can rent bikes or join a guided tour, including one that cycles along the beach and one to a local village.
Visitor Information
The resorts and guesthouses along this strip are well versed in all things tourist-oriented; stick to our recommended accommodations, and you'll also hear about less touristy options from your host. Shops, banks, travel agencies, tour operators, drugstores, cybercafes, and restaurants can all be found in the increasing number of shopping centers on Diani Beach Road, most of them in the vicinity of the junction for the road leading to Ukunda.
Safety
Beachwise
The biggest irritation along any of the East African beaches that are popular vacationing resorts is the abundance of so-called "beach boys." They're basically anyone who makes a living out of hustling people -- you -- on the beach and range from men trying to sell dhow trips or outings with fishermen (which could be quite enjoyable but might just as easily turn out to be complete disasters) to guys hawking their bodies with promises of sex, companionship, or whatever. There are many stories of women heading back to Europe with lovers found this way, but for the most part, these guys are simply a nuisance, insinuating themselves into your space and often refusing to stop hassling you until you've agreed to buy something or finally, out of complete desperation, handed over some cash. Logic would dictate that your first course of action should be to ignore any advances, not even responding to a simple "Hello." This seldom works, however, and you might find yourself a victim of verbal harassment implying that you're rude or even racist. Try being polite, by all means, but make every effort to clarify from the get-go that you (a) have no intention of purchasing anything, (b) have no money, and (c) have no interest in what's being offered. Typically, none of these will exempt you from having to put up with the prolonged sales pitch, but you may just score enough time to walk to a nearby bar or restaurant or back to your hotel. Never suggest that you may -- in any manner whatsoever -- be interested later, as this will result in being stalked for the remainder of your vacation. Really, these guys want your money, and they'll go to unusual lengths to get it from you. Bear in mind that beach boys are illegal, so it really doesn't make any sense to encourage them.
Also note that nude and topless sunbathing is illegal in Kenya and will offend many local cultures. Don't approach single women or girls on the beach, and carefully note that the word malayas means "hookers" in Swahili. Finally, be aware that the export of shells and coral from Kenya is illegal; do not buy anything made from either of these, as trade in shells increases poaching through demand. Do not touch, damage, or remove any coral, which is a living organism and takes years to develop; besides killing the coral, touching or breaking it interferes with the living environment of many rare and endangered species. It's illegal to remove shells, starfish, or any other marine life, plant or animal, as the disruption to the ecosystem can be severe.
