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A 15-minute walk west of Diocletian’s Palace lies the hillside quarter of Varoš, with its winding alleys and old stone cottages. If you walk uphill through Varoš, you will arrive on Marjan, a nature reserve of fragrant pinewoods crisscrossed by footpaths. Marjan is actually a 3.5km (2 mile) long peninsula, and if you walk all the way to the end of it you’ll come to Bene, a recreation ground with a bathing area, tennis courts, and a café on its western tip. If you follow the path along Marjan’s south-facing slopes, you get amazing views over the sea to the islands of Brač, Šolta, and čiovo, and you’ll also pass several centuries-old stone churches.