Planning a trip to St. Lucia

Getting There

The island maintains two separate airports, whose different locations cause endless confusion to many newcomers. Most international long-distance flights land at Hewanorra International Airport (UVF; tel. 758/454-6355) in the south, 72km (45 miles) from Castries. If you arrive here and you're booked into a hotel in the north, you'll spend about an hour and a half traveling along the potholed East Coast Highway. Many hotels arrange transfers to and from the airport, but if not, taxis are available; the average fare is $20 to $85 for up to four passengers. Many visitors now prefer to take helicopter flights from Hewanorra International Airport to their resorts rather than endure the long, stomach-churning car ride. St. Lucia Helicopters (tel. 758/453-6950; www.stluciahelicopters.com) offers flights between Castries and Hewanorra Airport or Soufrière, costing $145 per person one-way. Flights can also be arranged to the Jalousie Plantation, which has its own helicopter pad.

Flights from other parts of the Caribbean usually land at the smaller, somewhat antiquated George F. L. Charles Airport (formerly known as Vigie; tel. 758/452-1156), in the northeast. Its location just outside Castries affords much more convenient access to the capital and many of the island's hotels. It is a long (about an hour and a half), twisting drive to lodging in and around Soufrière, but you'll pass through beautiful terrain and quaint fishing villages along the way.

American (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com) flies nonstop Monday, Thursday, and Sunday from New York's Kennedy Airport to Hewanorra. American also flies daily from Miami to St. Lucia.

Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S. and Canada; www.delta.com) flies once daily from Friday to Tuesday from Atlanta.

American Eagle (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada, or 758/452-1820; www.aa.com) serves George F. L. Charles Airport with nonstop flights from San Juan, Puerto Rico. Connections from all parts of the North American mainland to the airline's enormous hub in San Juan are frequent and convenient. American also offers some good package deals.

US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015 in the U.S. and Canada; www.usairways.com) flies two times a week from Philadelphia to St. Lucia's Hewanorra Airport.

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aircanada.ca) has nonstop weekly flights to St. Lucia's Hewanorra Airport that depart from Toronto or Montréal.

British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297 in the U.S.; www.britishairways.com) offers two flights a week from London's Gatwick Airport to St. Lucia's Hewanorra Airport.

LIAT (tel. 888/844-LIAT [5428]; www.liatairline.com) has small planes flying from many points throughout the Caribbean into George F. L. Charles Airport. Points of origin include such islands as Barbados, Antigua, St. Thomas, St. Maarten, and Martinique. On some LIAT flights, you may visit all these islands before arriving in St. Lucia.

Air Jamaica (tel. 800/523-5585 in the U.S. and Canada; www.airjamaica.com) serves the Hewanorra Airport with nonstop service from New York's JFK 4 days a week.

WestJet (tel. 888/WESTJET [937-8538]; www.westjet.com) offers nonstop service from Toronto to St. Lucia. Flights head out from mid-December to April, arriving in a Boeing 737 at St. Lucia's Hewanorra International Airport.

Fast Facts

Banks -- Banks are open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 3pm, Friday from 8am to 5pm, and Saturday 8am to noon. ATMs can be found at all bank branches, transportation centers, and shopping malls.

Currency -- The official monetary unit is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$), which is pegged at EC$2.67 per U.S. dollar (EC$1 = 37¢). Nearly all hotels, restaurants, and shops accept U.S dollars. Always ascertain which dollar prices are listed. Prices in this section are quoted in U.S. dollars.

Customs -- At either airport, Customs may be a hassle if there's the slightest suspicion, regardless of how ill-founded, that you're carrying illegal drugs.

Documents -- U.S., British, and Canadian citizens need valid passports, plus an ongoing or return ticket.

Electricity -- St. Lucia runs on 220-230 volts AC (50 cycles), so bring an adapter if you plan to use U.S. appliances. Some hotels are wired for U.S. appliances. Ask when you book.

Emergencies -- Call the police at tel. 999. For an ambulance or in case of fire, call tel. 911.

Internet -- Convenient Internet outlets at Rodney Bay Marina, Gros Islet, include Snooty Agouti (tel. 758/452-0321), Cyber Connections (tel. 758/450-9309), and Destination St. Lucia (tel. 758/452-8531).

Hospitals -- There are 24-hour emergency rooms at St. Jude's Hospital, Vieux Fort (tel. 758/454-6041), and Victoria Hospital, Hospital Road, Castries (tel. 758/452-2421).

Language -- English is the official tongue, but islanders often speak a French-Creole patois similar to that heard on Martinique.

Pharmacies -- The best is M&C Drugstore, Bridge Street, in Castries (tel. 758/458-8147), open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm, and Saturday 8am to 1pm.

Safety -- St. Lucia has its share of crime, like every other place these days. Use common sense and protect yourself and your valuables. If you've got it, don't flaunt it! Don't pick up hitchhikers if you're driving around the island. The use of narcotic drugs is illegal, and possession or sale of drugs could lead to stiff fines or jail.

Taxes -- The government imposes an 8% occupancy tax on hotel rooms, and there's a $26 departure tax for both airports. Children 11 and under don't pay departure tax.

Telephone -- The area code for St. Lucia is 758. Make calls to or from St. Lucia just as you would with any other area code in North America. On the island, dial all seven digits of the local number. To access AT&T Direct, call tel. 800/225-5288; to reach MCI, dial tel. 800/888-8000.

Time -- St. Lucia is on Atlantic Standard Time year-round, placing it 1 hour ahead of New York. However, when the United States is on daylight saving time, St. Lucia matches the clocks of the U.S. East Coast.

Tipping -- Most hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge. (Ask if it's been included in the initial hotel rate you're quoted.) If you're pleased with the service in a restaurant, by all means, supplement with an extra 5%. Taxi drivers expect 10% of the fare.

Water -- Water here is generally considered safe to drink; if you're unsure or have a delicate constitution, stick to bottled water.

Weather -- This little island, lying in the path of the trade winds, has year-round temperatures of 70°F to 90°F (21°C-32°C).

Getting Around

By Taxi

Since driving St. Lucia's unmarked, bad roads is rather difficult, a taxi is recommended for all but the most adventurous. Taxis are ubiquitous and most drivers are eager to please. The drivers have special training that allows them to serve as guides. Their cabs are unmetered, but the government fixes tariffs for all standard trips. Typical fares -- say, from Castries to Hewanorra Airport -- are $90, or else from Castries to Rodney Bay, $20 to $25. Always ask if the driver is quoting a rate in U.S. dollars or Eastern Caribbean dollars (EC$). For more information, call the Taxi Association at tel. 758/454-6136.

By Rental Car

Avis (tel. 800/331-1084 in the U.S. and Canada, or 758/452-2700 or 452-2202; www.avisstlucia.com), Traders Auto Rentals (tel. 758/452-0233), and Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S. and Canada, or 758/452-0679; www.hertz.com) have offices at (or will deliver cars to) both of the island's airports. Each also has an office in Castries and, in some cases, at some of the island's major hotels.

Avis's rates begin at $85 per day, and Hertz's begin at $92 per day. You can sometimes save money by booking through one of the local car rental agencies, where rates begin at $60 per day, depending on size. Try C.T.L. Rent-a-Car, Gros Islet Highway, Rodney Bay Marina (tel. 758/452-0732). Cool Breeze Car Rental, New Development, Soufrière (tel. 758/459-7729), is also a good bet if you're staying in the south. Prices are $45 and up.

Remember: Drive on the left, and try to avoid some of the island's more obvious potholes. Drive carefully, and honk your horn while going around the blind hairpin turns. You'll need a St. Lucia driver's license ($20), which you can purchase at either airport when you pick up your rental car.

By Bus

Minibuses (with names like Lucian Love) and jitneys connect Castries with such main towns as Soufrière, for $2.60, and Vieux Fort ($1.90). They're cheap, but they're generally overcrowded and often filled with produce on its way to market. Buses for Cap Estate, in the northern part of the island, leave from Jeremy Street in Castries, near the market. Buses going to Vieux Fort and Soufrière depart from Bridge Street in front of the department store.

By Helicopter

In addition to providing the fastest mode of transport on this island (preferred by such visitors as Harrison Ford), St. Lucia Helicopters (tel. 758/453-6950; www.stluciahelicopters.com) offers the island's most dramatic sightseeing. The 10-minute North Island Tour, costing $85 per person, flies you over Castries, the major resort hotels, the elegant Cap Estate homes, Pigeon Point, Rodney Bay, Rat Island, and the more turbulent Atlantic coast. The longer 20-minute South Island Tour, costing $140 per passenger, flies over Castries, the banana plantations, beautiful Marigot Bay, fishing villages, the lush rainforest, the Pitons, the Soufrière volcano, and even remote waterfalls, rivers, and lush valleys. Another tour, combining both the north and south, costs $175 per person.