Planning a trip to St. Maarten/St. Martin

Tips for Families

St. Maarten/St. Martin has a number of family-friendly resorts and restaurants featuring kids' menus. Anguilla is very family-friendly, particularly during spring break, the shoulder seasons, and summer; the calm, clear waters are perfect for beginning swimmers. The Malliouhana resort, on Anguilla, has a wonderful children's playground (with a pirate ship) that's separate from the main section of the resort. Although a number of St. Barts resorts discourage children during high season, it's quite a kid-friendly place the rest of the year.

Even those hotels and resorts with specific adults-only aspects offer some sort of kid-friendly amenities and programs. Many of the beaches are particularly attractive for families with toddlers and young children, and older kids will have plenty of nonmotorized watersports activities (snorkeling, sailing, parasailing) to keep them happy.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Despite the dominance of the euro since January 2002 within the mother country, Holland, the legal tender on the Dutch side of St. Maarten is still the Netherlands Antilles florin (NAf); the official exchange rate is NAf 1.79 for each $1. U.S. dollars are really the coin of the realm here, and prices in hotels and most restaurants and shops are designated in dollars. On the French side (as well as on St. Barts), the official monetary unit is the euro, with most establishments widely quoting and accepting either dollars or NAf guilders as well. At press time, the U.S. dollar was trading at $1.20 to the euro. Anguilla's official currency is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar, though U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere; the exchange rate is set permanently at roughly 2.70EC to $1.

Prices throughout this guide are given in U.S. dollars for establishments on the Dutch side and Anguilla, and in either euros or U.S. dollars for establishments on the French side and St. Barts according to whether establishments quoted their prices in euros or dollars at the time of publication.

As the dollar was still weaker than the euro at press time, some establishments on St. Barts and French St. Martin advertise a 1-to-1 exchange rate if you use cash. Always confirm before you get the bill.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you leave home. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. And if you use a debit card, the fees may be higher still -- again, check with your bank before you leave home. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank before you leave home.

Note: Keep in mind that ATMs in St. Maarten give you a choice of dollars or euros, while ATMs on St. Martin only dispense euros.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are widely accepted on all three islands. You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

If you carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards are widely accepted on all three islands. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Almost every credit card company has an emergency toll-free number that you can call if your wallet or purse is stolen. Credit card companies may be able to wire cash advances immediately, and in many places they can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Citicorp Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/336-8472. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282 for all money emergencies. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309.

What Things Cost in St. Maarten/St. Martin $

Taxi from the airport to Marigot 20.00

Double room, moderate 200.00-250

Double room, inexpensive 100-140.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 15.00-25.00

Bottle of Carib beer 1.00-1.50

Bottle of Coca-Cola 1.00

Cup of coffee 1.00-1.50

1 gallon of premium gas 5.00

Island Hopping

Anguilla

Public ferries run between Marigot Bay, St. Martin, and Blowing Point, Anguilla (tel. 264/497-6070) every 30 minutes. The trip takes 20 to 25 minutes, making day trips a snap. Usually, the first ferry leaves St. Martin at 8am and the last at 7pm; from Blowing Point, the first ferry leaves at 7:30am and the last at 6:15pm. The one-way fare is $15 ($10 children 2-18) plus a $3 departure tax. A departure tax of $20 (children $10) is charged on your return trip to St. Martin; day-trippers and visiting yachts pay a $5 departure tax. No reservations are necessary. Ferries vary in size, and none takes passenger vehicles. Tip: Keep in mind that if you have a late-arriving flight, you may quite literally miss the (ferry) boat. You can either spend the night in St. Maarten/St. Martin or arrange a charter plane connection into Anguilla.

A convenient option is to take one of the privately run charter boats and ferries that shuttle passengers between Anguilla and the airport in St. Maarten. Anguilla-based charter boats will pick you up at the Princess Juliana airport in St. Maarten and transport you and your luggage to Blowing Point or a hotel on the south side of Anguilla. These boats are more expensive than the public ferries, but let you avoid having to travel from the airport to the ferry port in Marigot by taxi (a 10- to 15-min. trip) -- a smart option for travelers with a lot of luggage or a lot of kids. Plus, the privately run boats are smaller and have fewer passengers and can even arrange full-boat charters for groups or families. Keep in mind that these boats do not run as frequently as the government-run ferry, but most do include ground transportation. Good news: In 2010, an agreement between the St. Maarten/Anguilla governments is designed to greatly facilitate the ease of private boat transfers (and passing through immigration) from the airport -- which means that ideally you will be able to get off the plane and jump on a boat straight to Anguilla in under 30 minutes.

Check out the GB Express (tel. 264/235-6205 in Anguilla; 599/581-3568 on St. Maarten; www.anguillaferryandcharter; $55 one way, $90 round-trip); the MV Shauna VI (tel. 264/476-0975 or 264/772-2031 in Anguilla; 599/580-6275 on St. Maarten; myshauna6@hotmail.com; round-trip fare $60 adults, $40 children 2-12); or Funtime Charters (tel. 866/334-0047 or 264/497-6511; www.funtime-charters.com; $55 per person one-way; half-price for children 11 and under). Reservations are required.

Most Anguilla hotels will also arrange (for a fee) private boat charters between the airport in St. Maarten and the ferry dock at Blowing Point, Anguilla, with door-to-door ground transportation.

Tip: If you'd like to do some shopping and have lunch in Marigot before you take your ferry to Anguilla, simply store your bags at the ferry landing. The Port de Marigot has a small baggage storage area ($5, plus tip).

St. Barts

The Voyager vessels (tel. 590/87-10-68; www.voy12.com or www.voyager-st-barths.com) make frequent (usually twice daily, sometimes more) runs between St. Barts and either side of St. Maarten/St. Martin. The schedule varies according to the season (and the seas), but the MV Voyager II usually departs Marigot Harbor for St. Barts every morning and evening. MV Voyager I travels from Oyster Pond to Gustavia two to four times daily. Advance reservations are a good idea; fares run around 50€ to 58€ adults, 30€ children 2-12 one way (plus taxes). The trip can take around 45 minutes and can be rough; it's recommended that those with weak tummies take seasickness medication before the trip.

The technologically advanced, speedy, more luxurious and stable 65-foot aluminum mono-hull Great Bay Express (tel. 590/27-60-33; www.sbhferry.com) offers daily 20- to 40-minute crossings between St. Maarten's Bobby's Marina in Philipsburg and Gustavia. The boat can carry 130 passengers. Reservations are essential; the roundtrip fare is 56€ to 95€ adults, 40€ to 50€ children 2 to 11 years (plus taxes).

Getting There

The island has two airports. Your likely arrival point will be St. Maarten's Princess Juliana International Airport (PJIA) (tel. 599/546-7542; www.pjiae.com), which has grown from a military airfield built by the United States in 1943 into the second-busiest airport in the eastern Caribbean, topped only by San Juan, Puerto Rico. Princess Juliana is a thoroughly modern facility, with restaurants, snack bars, ATMs, and car-rental kiosks. The much smaller L'Espérance Airport, in Grand Case on French St. Martin (tel. 590/87-10-36), caters largely to inter-island commuter airlines and small private aircraft.

American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com) offers more options and more frequent service into St. Maarten than any other airline -- currently one daily nonstop flight from New York's JFK and one from Miami. Additional nonstop daily flights into St. Maarten are offered by American and its local affiliate, American Eagle (same number), from San Juan.

Delta Airlines (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S. and Canada; www.delta.com) flies in from Atlanta and New York City (through Atlanta).

United (tel. 800/538-2929 in the U.S. and Canada; www.united.com) also offers flights from New York.

US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322 in the U.S. and Canada; www.usairways.com) offers nonstop daily service from Philadelphia and Charlotte to St. Maarten.

JetBlue Airways (tel. 800-JETBLUE/538-2583 in the US; www.jetblue.com) has one daily nonstop flight from New York's JFK into St. Maarten.

Spirit Airlines (tel. 800/772-7117 in the U.S. and Canada; www.spiritair.com) has nonstop service from Fort Lauderdale to St. Maarten.

Air Caraïbes (tel. 590/52-05-10; www.aircaraibes.com) offers flights from Paris's Orly airport into St. Maarten.

Caribbean Airlines (tel. 800/920-4225 in the U.S. and Canada, or 599/54-67660 on St. Maarten; www.caribbean-airlines.com), the national airline of Trinidad and Tobago (replacing the now-defunct BWIA) has flights from New York, Miami, Toronto, and London with connections to St. Maarten.

The regional airline LIAT (tel. 888/844-5428 in the U.S. and Canada; www.liatairline.com) has direct daily 40-minute flights and connecting flights into St. Maarten from its hub in Antigua. From St. Martin, LIAT offers ongoing service to a number of other islands, including Antigua, St. Croix, Puerto Rico, St. Kitts, and Dominica.

One airline specializes in flying the short routes of the northeastern Caribbean islands, from Tortola to Montserrat. Winair (tel. 888/255-6889 in the U.S. and Canada, or 599/54-54237; www.fly-winair.com) offers island trips from its main gateway at the Princess Juliana International Airport.

St. Maarten: Cruisin'

Some 20 cruise lines and 1.7 million cruise passengers arrive in St. Maarten annually. St. Maarten has a total of six dedicated cruise berths -- making it one of the Caribbean's largest cruise-ship ports -- and the big ones do pull in here, including a recent visit by Oasis of the Seas, the 2,700-cabin behemoth that has enjoyed record-breaking passenger numbers (over 6,000). For more about the port, go to www.portofstmaarten.com.

Calendar of Events

January & February

Carnival. Festivities on St. Martin last for nearly 2 months starting the second Sunday in January with parade rehearsals and band tryouts.

Carnival reaches its frenzied peak on the French side in February, with jump-ups, barbecues, and pageants. It all leads to J'ouvert, the weekend before Mardi Gras, and lasts until Ash Wednesday. The dancing-in-the-streets parades represent the culmination of an entire year's preparation, from creating the feathered, sequined costumes to writing unique musical themes. The streets are crowded with young and old following trucks with enormous sound systems in Marigot until everyone congregates at "Carnival Village" come nightfall for concerts and events, including the crowning of the Carnival King and Queen.

March

Heineken Regatta. Now in its third decade, this annual series of major boat races debuted in 1980. More than 200 vessels, from converted family fishing dinghies to race prototypes, compete in several categories. It's a prime excuse for partying, particularly on the Dutch side. For details, go to www.heinekenregatta.com. First weekend of March.

April

Carnival. The Dutch side chimes in with its own, even more extravagant version, beginning the Wednesday after Easter Sunday and continuing for 15 riotous days of beauty pageants, costume and calypso competitions, Mas bands, parades, shows, and assorted revels.

The Carnival Village features stands dishing out spicy local fare and an enormous stage where local and international musicians perform nightly. J'ouvert, the opening jump-up, showcases local and international bands and thousands of revelers line the streets and follow the bands until they arrive at Carnival Village.

More parades are held the next morning, and the grandest of all takes place on the Queen's Birthday. Crowds pack the streets of Philipsburg vying for a spot to see the musicians, the outrageous costumes, and the colorful floats. The Last Lap, the grand finale of the Carnival, includes a symbolic burning of King Momo, a straw figure who embodies the spirit of Carnival. Island legend claims that burning the King in effigy will purge the sins and consequent bad luck of the village. Check www.stmaartencarnival.com for more information.

St. Maarten Open Golf Tournament. Residents and visitors alike are invited to participate in this 3-day 54-hole event at Mullet Bay Golf Resort. For details, go to www.stmaartengolf.com. Second weekend in April.

May

Ecotourism Day. Nature discovery organizations, activity operators, artisans, and local entertainers take over the Bellevue Estate on the French side for this event. You can indulge in free sea kayaking, scuba diving, horseback tours, mountain bike riding, hiking, and treasure hunts. Cultural and culinary traditions are displayed: spice-growing, pottery-making, coffee-roasting. Typical island dishes and local bands are also on the menu. Go to www.st-martin.org for updates. Usually second or third weekend of May.

Fête du Nautisme. This watersports festival organized by METIMER, the St. Martin Sea Trades Association, focuses on (re)discovering the rich marine environment. Free activities include yacht and motorboat excursions and regattas, jet-skiing, kayaking, and windsurfing, with lessons available. Usually second or third weekend of May.

June

Billfish Tournament. One of the Caribbean's most prestigious fishing competitions lasts nearly the entire week, attracting anglers from Europe and the Caribbean. About 30 fishing boats battle at the "Marlin Boulevard" area, rich fishing grounds about 48km (30 miles) east of St. Maarten. Go to www.billfish-tournament.com for details. First or second week of June.

The Fishing Event. Fish the famous Marlin Boulevard area, rich fishing grounds about 48km (30 miles) east of St. Maarten. Go to www.the-fishing-event.com for details. Third or fourth week of June.

July

Bastille Day. The French holiday is celebrated island-wide with fanfare and fireworks, races and revelry. July 14.

Schoelcher Day. Boat and bike races are held in honor of Victor Schoelcher, a Frenchman who fought against slavery. July 21.

November

St. Maarten's Day. Christopher Columbus named the island St. Maarten/St. Martin because he discovered it in 1493 on November 11, the feast day of St. Martin of Tours. Island residents on both sides still celebrate it as an official holiday, organizing various sporting events, parades, and jump-ups over 2 to 3 days. November 11.

The Island in Brief

St. Maarten/St. Martin is a hilly island; driving around you'll discover numerous lookouts with splendid panoramas of the coast and offshore islets. One main road essentially circumnavigates the island; a detour from Marigot to Cole Bay on the Dutch side hugs the eastern shore of Simpson Bay lagoon and avoids traffic around the airport and bustling Maho area during rush hours.

The island is shaped -- very roughly -- like a boot. The toe at the western point encompasses the French Lowlands (Terres Basses), a tony residential area with several stunning beaches. Following the main road east takes you through Sandy Ground, a strip of land crammed with tour-group-style hotels, restaurants, shops, and beach bars. It's bordered on the north by Baie Nettlé and on the south by Simpson Bay, the Caribbean's largest enclosed body of water. Marigot, the French side's capital, is just over 2km (1 1/4 miles) to the northeast. Ferries depart its harbor for Anguilla. The main route ambles north, with turnoffs west on rutted roads to fine beaches, as well as east to Pic du Paradis (the island's highest peak at 424m/1,400 ft.) before reaching Grand Case, site of the tiny inter-island L'Espérance Airport, and beloved by foodies for its superlative eateries. The highway runs east, with a fork at Mont Vernon. The north turnoff accesses French Cul-de-Sac (embarkation point for ferries to the offshore cays) and a side road to Anse Marcel, home of a marina and the Radisson resort. The other turnoff accesses the beautiful Orient Bay beach, continuing south through the residential Orléans quarter, straddling the Dutch border at Oyster Pond and its marina.

Dawn Beach, site of increased development (and the Westin resort) is the first major strand on the Dutch side. The main highway turns slightly inland and passes the Great Salt Pond on its way to the Dutch capital, Philipsburg, which unfurls along Great Bay. The major cruise ships dock here; there are also several marinas offering boat rentals and excursions. Pointe Blanche forms the very flat heel. From Philipsburg, the highway parallels the south coast, rising and dipping over Cay and Cole Bay Hills. Traffic here in both directions is often dreadful, especially on weekends: the "Caribbean's longest parking lot," as locals joke. Party central begins at Simpson Bay, where the highway officially becomes Airport Road. Marinas, bars, restaurants, timeshare units, casinos, and strip malls line both sides, continuing almost unabated past Princess Juliana International Airport to Maho Beach, another nightlife nirvana. The road passes Mullet Bay and the lively Cupecoy area in the Dutch Lowlands before hitting the French border.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Calling St. Maarten/St. Martin from Abroad

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S. and Canada; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 599 for St. Maarten and 590 for St. Martin.

3. Dial the city code 590 (a second time) and then the six-digit number on St. Martin. The St. Maarten city code is 54, and then dial the five-digit number.

Calling Within St. Maarten/St. Martin -- To call the French side from the Dutch side and vice versa is an expensive international "long distance" call, going through Byzantine routing to Europe and back. From the French to Dutch side, dial 00, then 599, 54 and the five-digit number. From the Dutch to the French side (and St. Barts), dial 00, then 590590 (590690 for cellphones) and the six-digit number.

International Calls from St. Maarten/St. Martin -- From St. Maarten/St. Martin, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

Both the Dutch side and the French side have public phones from which you can make overseas calls using prepaid phone cards. On the Dutch side there are phones from which you can also make overseas credit-card and collect calls. The public phones on the French side only accept prepaid phone cards. You can buy phone cards in $5, $10, and $20 increments throughout the island at gas stations, newsstands, phone stores, and post offices. At the Marigot post office, you can purchase a prepaid phone card called a Têlécartes, giving you 40 units. A typical 5-minute call to the States takes up to 120 units. There are two public phones at the Marigot tourist office from which it's possible to make credit card calls. There are six public phones at the post office.

If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 0 if you're trying to make an international call and a number within St. Maarten/St. Martin. For directory assistance, dial 150 if you're looking for a number inside St. Maarten/St. Martin, and dial 0 for numbers to all other countries.

Toll-free Numbers -- There are no toll-free numbers on St. Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla, or St. Barts, and calling a 1-800 number in the States from them is not toll free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Cellphones

The three letters that define the islands' wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across the islands. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account.

For many, renting a phone on one of the islands is a good idea. You can rent a phone from any number of island sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies. Mobile phone rentals are available from Friendly Island Cellphone Rentals (tel. 599/553-7368), in Simpson Bay, St. Maarten; they'll even deliver the phone to your resort or villa. On Anguilla, you can arrange a phone rental through your hotel or resort or directly from LIME (formerly Cable & Wireless Ltd.), Wallblake Road, the Valley (tel. 264/497-3100), or Digicel (tel. 264/498-3444), with its main office by the Public Library in the Valley. On St. Barts, Centre @lizés, rue de la République, Gustavia (tel. 590/298-989) is a full-service Internet cafe that also offers cellphone and laptop rentals.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe. For all the details on restrictions and availability, check the websites above for details.

Internet/E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes on the islands, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hot spots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots on the islands, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Be aware that most flights arriving into St. Maarten do not deplane through gates but down movable steps on the tarmac. Many of the newer hotels and resorts on the islands are equipped with handicapped-accessible bathrooms. Beaches can be difficult to access for those in wheelchairs, however. One surprising exception: The nudist resort, Club Orient (www.cluborient.com), on Orient Beach in French St. Martin, has not only wheelchair-accessible bathrooms but one of the island's few beach wheelchairs. The oceanfront boardwalk in Philipsburg is wide and flat, making it ideal for wheelchair travel.

Fast Facts

American Express -- None of the islands covered in this guide has an official AmEx representative.

Area Codes -- The country and area code for St. Martin is 590/590; the country and area code for St. Maarten is 599/599.

Banks -- Banks affiliated with the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) ATM networks are located on St. Maarten/St. Martin. On the Dutch side, several banks are clustered along Front Street in Philipsburg. On the French side, most banks are along rue de la République in Marigot. Check the following banks' websites for exact locations of ATMs (also called ABMs for "automated banking machines"): Windward Island Bank (http://wib-bank.net), Scotiabank (www.scotiabank.com), FirstCaribbean Bank (www.firstcaribbeanbank.com), and RBTT N.V. (www.rbtt.com). Princess Juliana International Airport in St. Maarten has two ATMs (WIB and RBTT) on the Arrivals floor. A Scotiabank branch is located at the cruise terminal building at Pointe Blanche, Philipsburg, St. Maarten. Note: Keep in mind that ATMs in St. Maarten give you a choice of dollars or euros, while ATMs on St. Martin dispense only euros.

Business Hours -- Banks: On the Dutch side, most banks are open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Saturday from 9am to noon. On the French side, they are usually open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1:30pm. Stores/shops: Although French St. Martin stores open around 9am and close around 7pm, most shopkeepers close to take an extended lunch break from around 12:30 to 2pm, or even later. Dutch side shops stay open continuously from 9am to 6pm (and later).

Currency -- U.S. dollars are widely accepted, and prices in hotels and most restaurants and shops are most often designated in dollars as well. On the French side, the official monetary unit is the euro (€), with most establishments widely quoting and accepting either dollars or Netherlands Antilles florin (NAf) guilders as well. At press time, the U.S. dollar was trading at $1.20 to 1€. Prices throughout this guide are given in U.S. dollars for establishments on the Dutch side, and in euros or dollars for establishments on the French side.

Drinking Laws -- Eighteen is the legal drinking age on St. Maarten/St. Martin. Alcohol is sold in grocery stores and restaurants.

Drugstores -- Both sides have several pharmacies, though none are open 24 hours. On the French side, try Pharmacie du Port (rue de la Liberté, Marigot; tel. 590/87-50-79; Mon-Sat 8am-7:30pm, Sun hours vary). On the Dutch side, try Philipsburg Pharmacy (4 E. Voges St., Philipsburg; tel. 599/542-3001; Mon-Fri 7:30am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Sun 10am-noon), Simpson Bay Pharmacy (Simpson Bay Yacht Club, 163 Welfare Rd.; tel. 599/544-3653; Mon-Fri 8:15am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Sun 5-7pm), and the Druggist (Airport Rd., Simpson Bay; tel. 599/545-2777; Mon-Fri 8:30am-7:30pm, Sat noon-7pm, Sun 1-3pm).

Electricity -- Dutch St. Maarten and Anguilla use the same voltage (110-volt AC, 60 cycles) with the same electrical configurations as North America, so adapters and transformers are not necessary for Americans or Canadians. However, on French St. Martin and St. Barts, 220-volt AC prevails; North Americans will usually need transformers and adapters. To simplify things, many hotels on both sides of the island have installed sockets suitable for both European and North American appliances.

Embassies & Consulates -- On St. Maarten/St. Martin, citizens of the U.S. are represented by its consulate at St. Anna Boulevard, Willemstad, Curaçao (tel. 599/961-3066). There is a Canadian consulate at 16A Topaz Dr., St. Maarten (tel. 599/544-5023). Citizens of the U.K. can register with the consulate at 38 Jan Sofat in Willemstad, Curaçao (tel. 599/747-3322).

Emergencies -- For emergencies, call tel. 911. On the Dutch side, call the police at tel. 542-2222 or an ambulance at tel. 542-2111; to report a fire, call tel. 911 or 120. On the French side, you can reach the police by dialing tel. 17 or 87-50-10. In case of fire, dial tel. 18. For an ambulance, dial tel. 15 or 29-04-04.

Holidays -- National holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1); Epiphany (Jan 6, French side); Carnival (early Feb); Good Friday and Easter Monday (usually Apr); Labor Day (May 1); Ascension Day (early May); Bastille Day (July 14, French side); Schoelcher Day (July 21, French side); Assumption Day (Aug 15); All Saints' Day (Nov 1); Concordia Day and St. Martin Day (Nov 11); Christmas Day (Dec 25); and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Hospitals -- On the Dutch side, go to the St. Maarten Medical Center, Welegen Road, Cay Hill (tel. 599/543-1111; www.sintmaartenmedicalcenter.com). On the French side, the local hospital is Hospital Louis-Constant Fleming, near Marigot in Concordia (tel. 590/52-25-25).

Internet Access -- Cybercafes can be found in both Marigot and Philipsburg, and most hotels have high-speed Internet access and/or a computer center.

Mail -- On St. Maarten, the main post office (tel. 599/542-2298) is located on Walter Nisbeth Road. The main post office (Bureau Principal; tel. 590/51-07-64) on the French side is in Marigot, on Rue de la Liberté.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In addition to several local newspapers (The Daily Herald is the leading English-language publication), visitors can pick up one of several useful tourist magazines including St. Maarten Nature, St. Maarten Events, Discover St. Martin/St. Maarten, St. Maarten Nights, Ti Gourmet, and Vacation St. Maarten.

Smoking -- While many larger properties offer nonsmoking rooms, there are no regulations against smoking -- for now. Legislation has recently been proposed to ban smoking in all St. Maarten restaurants, bars, and casinos -- check to see if the law has been passed.

Taxes -- For departures to international destinations from Princess Juliana Airport on the Dutch side, there's a departure tax of $30 ($10 if you're leaving the island for St. Eustatius or Saba; if you're leaving by ferry from Marigot Pier to Anguilla, the departure tax is $4). There is a 3€ ($4.50) departure tax for departures from L'Espérance Airport on the French side. Note: The departure tax is often included in the airfare. On St. Maarten, a government tax of 5% is added to your hotel bill. On top of that, many hotels tack on a service charge of 10% to 15%. Hotels on French St. Martin add a 10% service charge and a taxe de séjour, a local room tax of 4% to 5%.

Time -- St. Maarten/St. Martin operate on Atlantic Standard Time year-round. Thus in winter, if it's 6pm in Philipsburg, it's 5pm in New York. During daylight saving time in the United States, the island and the U.S. East Coast are on the same time.

Tipping -- Porters and bellmen expect $1 per bag. Taxi drivers should receive 10% of the fare, more if they offer touring or other suggestions.

Toilets -- Public facilities are few and far between other than a couple of options in Marigot, Philipsburg, and Orient Beach. Hotel lobbies and restaurants are the best options, though technically you should be a guest or customer.

Water -- The water on St. Maarten/St. Martin is safe to drink. In fact, most hotels serve desalinated water.

When to Go

Hotels on charge their highest rates during the peak winter season, from mid-December to mid-April. Christmas week rates may double those tariffs. You should make reservations months in advance for Christmas and February, especially over Presidents' Day weekend. School spring breaks are also busy family times.

The off-season  runs roughly mid-April to mid-December (though exact dates vary according to the property). Even though August can be a popular month for vacationing Europeans, it's one big summer sale: Most hotels, inns, condos, and villas slash their prices 20% to 50%. The beaches are less crowded and many top lodgings and restaurants shutter for one, even 2 months as the owners take their own vacation or perform necessary renovations. Be sure to request a room away from noise if the hotel remains open during construction. I provide closing dates wherever possible, but visitors should double-check before booking.

Weather

High season features a temperate climate, rarely exceeding 90°F (32°C), with lower humidity and the famed cooling trade winds blowing in from the northeast. It's ideal beach weather, with the occasional cloudy day. Usually rain showers are brief: Islanders call them "liquid sunshine."

Rainy season runs from late May to mid-November. This doesn't mean it rains for days at a time or even every day. But this also roughly corresponds to the official Atlantic hurricane season, June 1 to November 30. Fortunately, satellite surveillance provides enough advance warning to take precautions and, rarely, evacuate.

Hurricanes -- The northeastern Caribbean has seen its share of destructive hurricanes; the latest to have an impact in this region was Hurricane Omar, which in 2008 eroded beaches and blew down beach shacks in the Maho Bay area in St. Maarten and also caused beach erosion on Anguilla's West End. Fortunately, modern technology and satellite surveillance provide plenty of advance warning for impending storms. Hurricane season officially begins in June and ends in late November, but high hurricane season in this neck of the woods is the month of September. A number of resorts use this time (early fall) to close for renovations, especially on St. Barts. If you are caught in a hurricane or tropical storm during your stay, follow the instructions of officials (especially in the event of an evacuation to higher ground). Keep in mind that low-lying areas may be prone to flooding, and the seas may have dangerous rip currents even after a hurricane has passed. For the latest satellite imagery and hurricane information, go to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's National Hurricane Center (www.nhc.noaa.gov).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

U.S. and Canadian citizens must have a passport or a combination of a birth certificate and photo ID, plus a return or ongoing ticket, to enter St. Maarten/St. Martin. Citizens of the United Kingdom, Commonwealth countries of the Caribbean, the Republic of Ireland, and E.U. countries must also have a current passport.

All travelers coming from the Caribbean, including Americans, are now required to have a passport to enter or re-enter the United States. Those returning to Canada are also required to show passports. Cruise ship passengers must also meet the requirement. You'll certainly need identification at some point, and a passport is the best form of ID for speeding through Customs and Immigration. Driver's licenses are not acceptable as a sole form of ID.

For other information, contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

Generally, you're permitted to bring in items intended for your personal use, including tobacco, cameras, film, and a limited supply of liquor -- usually 40 ounces.

Just before you leave home, check with the St. Maarten/St. Martin (as well as St. Barts and Anguilla) Customs or Foreign Affairs department for the latest guidelines -- including information on items that are not allowed to be brought into your home country -- because the rules are subject to change and often contain some surprising oddities.

Visitors to St. Maarten/St. Martin (as well as St. Barts and Anguilla) may not carry any form of firearm, spear guns, pole spears, illegal drugs, live plants or cuttings, and raw fruits and vegetables. Visitors over 18 may bring in -- duty-free -- items intended for personal use (generally up to 4 liters of alcohol, a carton of cigarettes or 25 cigars), as well as laptops, cellphones, and cameras.

You should collect receipts for all purchases made abroad. You must also declare on your Customs form the nature and value of all gifts received during your stay abroad.

If you use any medication that contains controlled substances or requires injection, carry an original prescription or note from your doctor.

For specifics on what U.S. citizens can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," then go to "Travel Smart" and click on "Know Before You Go.") Or contact the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

U.K. citizens should contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (tel. 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.), or consult its website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Citizens of Australia should request a helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices called Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

For New Zealand Customs information, contact New Zealand Customs at tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786, or log on to www.customs.govt.nz.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Though the major U.S. airlines flying to St. Maarten no longer offer senior discounts or coupon books, some hotels extend deals, especially during slower periods. Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Getting Around

Taxis

Most visitors use taxis at some point to get around the island. Taxis are plentiful at Princess Juliana International Airport; taxi stands are conveniently located just outside the airport Arrivals section. Taxis are unmetered on both sides of the island (although drivers are required to carry government-issued rate sheets based on two-person occupancy), so always determine the rate before getting into a cab.

Rates are slightly different depending on which side of the island the taxi is based, though both Dutch and French cabs service the entire island. St. Maarten taxis have minimum fares for two passengers, and each additional passenger pays $4 extra. One piece of luggage per person is allowed free; each additional piece is $1 extra. Typical fares around the island are as follows: Princess Juliana Airport to Grand Case: $25 for up to two passengers and all their luggage; Marigot to Grand Case, $15; Princess Juliana airport to anywhere in Marigot, $15 to $20; Princess Juliana Airport to the Maho Beach Hotel, $6; and from Princess Juliana Airport to Philipsburg, about $15. Note: Fares are 25% higher between 10pm and midnight, and 50% higher between midnight and 6am.

St. Martin taxi fares are also for two passengers, but you should plan to add about $1 for each suitcase or valise and $2 for each additional person. These fares are in effect from 6am to 10pm; after that, they go up by 25% until midnight, rising by 50% after midnight. On the French side, the fare from Marigot to Grand Case is $15, from Princess Juliana Airport to Marigot and from Princess Juliana Airport to La Samanna, $15.

A couple of recommended taxi drivers are Gerard Taxi Service (tel. 599/553-4727 [Dutch side] or 0690/76-73-13 [French side]), and Renaldo, who drives Taxi 257 (tel. 0690/87-09-97 or 718/355-8166 in the U.S.).

For late-night cab service on St. Maarten, call tel. 147. To reach the Taxi Dispatch offices in St. Maarten, call tel. 599/54-67759 (airport) or tel. 599/54-22359 (Philipsburg). On the French side of the island, Taxi Service & Information Center operates at the port of Marigot (tel. 590/87-56-54).

Rental Cars

A car is the best way to experience and explore St. Maarten/St. Martin. And renting a car here couldn't be easier; car-rental agencies are a dime a dozen, with locations at the airports and throughout the island. It's also a cost-efficient way to see the island, with rates starting around $30 or 21€ a day, with unlimited mileage, and short distances between towns.

Many visitors rent cars upon arrival at Princess Juliana International Airport. If you haven't already made a car-rental reservation, you can choose from one of the many agencies that have kiosks at the airport, both international chains (like Budget, Avis, and Hertz) and local. To get around the law (strictly enforced by St. Maarten taxi drivers' union) that forbids anyone from picking up a car at the airport, every rental agency parks its cars at a location nearby. When you rent a car at one of the agency kiosks on the Arrivals floor of the Princess Juliana airport, you will be taken by company shuttle 5 to 10 minutes away to pick up your car.

Note: Always ask how far away from the airport rental cars are located; some of the smaller agencies are a couple of miles away -- which can turn into a long trip when traffic is heavy around the airport.

Car-rental agencies at the airport include Budget (tel. 800/472-3325 in the U.S. and Canada, or 599/54-54030 on the Dutch side; www.budget.com), Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S. and Canada, 599/54-22847 on the Dutch side, or 590/87-50-60 on the French side; www.avis-sxm.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S. and Canada, or 590/545-4541 on the Dutch side; www.hertz.com), and Alamo/National (tel. 800/328-4567 in the U.S. and Canada, or 599/54-55546 on the Dutch side; www.nationalcar.com). Also at the Princess Juliana airport are Best Deal Car Rental (tel. 866/826-2205 or 599/54-53061; www.bestdealscarrental.com) and Safari Car Rentals (tel. 800/736-6917 or 599/54-53185; www.safaricarrentals.com).

Budget (tel. 599/543-0431) also has an office at the cruise-ship terminal in Philipsburg.

All these companies charge roughly equivalent rates. The major car-rental agencies require that renters be at least 25 years old.

Many rental agencies will also deliver cars directly to your hotel, where an employee will complete the paperwork. Some hotels, like La Samanna, actually have a fleet of cars to rent on the premises -- but try to reserve well in advance because supply is limited.

Driving is on the right side of the road. Seat belts and child car seats are mandatory. International road signs are observed, and there are no Customs formalities at the border between the French and Dutch sides -- in fact, you might not even realize you crossed the border.

Expect traffic jams in and around Philipsburg during rush hours -- particularly in the Simpson Bay area when the Simpson Bay drawbridge is raised to let boat traffic through (six times daily in high season). Tune your car radio to Island 92 (91.9 FM) for traffic updates.

Public Bus

Traveling by public bus (more like a minivan) is a reasonable means of transport on St. Maarten/St. Martin if you don't mind a bit of inconvenience and overcrowding. Buses run daily from 5am to midnight and serve most major locations on both sides of the island. The most popular run is from Philipsburg on the Dutch side to Marigot on the French side. Privately owned and operated, minibuses tend to follow specific routes; the fare is $2 ($2.50 8pm-midnight). Buses accept both dollars and euros.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The Caribbean in general isn't the LGBT-friendliest destination, perhaps because of regrettably rampant "on the DL" hypocrisy in local communities. St. Barts is by far the most open of the islands in this area. Anguilla, like many a British colony, is quite conservative in attitude, but individual deluxe resorts welcome gay and lesbian travelers. The French and Dutch are generally tolerant, but St. Maarten/St. Martin is a mixed bag.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members."

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Rampant development on the Dutch side of the island has been cause for concern from environmentalists for some time. At press time, reports of shoddily built plumbing systems pouring wastewater runoff onto the beach at Cupecoy were met with dismay by local environmental group St. Maarten Pride Foundation, which also claims that authorities have no controls in place to prevent developers from demolishing natural landmarks, overrunning the natural environment, and destroying delicate ecosystems. Also active in conservation awareness is the Nature Foundation St. Maarten (www.naturefoundationsxm.org), established by the government in 1997.

General Resources for Responsible Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Visitor Information

For the latest information on Dutch St. Maarten and French St Martin, go to www.vacationstmaarten.com and www.st-martin.org, respectively. You can also contact the St. Maarten Tourist Bureau, 675 Third Ave., Ste. 1807, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 800/786-2278 or 212/953-2084). For information on French St. Martin, contact the St. Martin Promotional Bureau at 825 Third Ave., New York, NY 10022 (frontdesk@saint-martin.org). In Canada, the office for information about the Dutch side of the island is located at 703 Evans Ave., Ste. 106, Toronto, ON M9C 5E9 (tel. 416/622-4300). For information about the French side of the island, contact 1981 Ave. McGill College, Ste. 490, in Montréal (tel. 514/288-4264).

Once on St. Maarten, go to the Tourist Information Bureau, Vineyard Office Park, 33 W. G. Buncamper Rd., Philipsburg, St. Maarten, N.A. (tel. 599/542-2337), open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm.

The tourist board on French St. Martin, called the Office du Tourisme, is at Route de Sandy Ground, Marigot, 97150 St. Martin (tel. 590/87-57-21), open Monday to Friday from 8am to 1pm and 2:30 to 5:30pm.

Health & Safety

There are no particular health concerns on St. Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla, or St. Barts. The best medical facilities are on St. Maarten/St. Martin, with good clinics on Anguilla and St. Barts. Emergency airlift to Puerto Rico is available from all three destinations.

It's fairly easy to obtain major over-the-counter medication, with most major North American brands available as well as brands manufactured in Europe under unfamiliar names. Some leading prescription drugs for such common ailments as allergies, asthma, and acid reflux are also available over the counter, albeit by European pharmaceutical companies.

Common Ailments

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- The biggest menaces on all three islands are mosquitoes (none are disease vectors) and no-see-ums, which appear mainly in the early evening. Window screens aren't always sufficient, so carry insect repellent. In St. Barts, many pharmacies sell the Belou line of essential oils, which includes Belou's P Soothing Mosquito Repellent Oil, a natural repellent. Many of the products in the Ligne St. Barth (www.lignestbarth.com) line of creams and sunscreens contain roucou, considered to be a natural insect repellent; its shop/laboratory is on the Route de Salines in Lorient.

Sun Exposure -- The tropical sun can be brutal. Wear sunglasses and a hat, and apply sunscreen liberally. Increase your time on the beach gradually. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. Sun and heatstroke are possibilities, especially if you engage in strenuous physical activity. See a doctor immediately if fever, chills, dizziness, nausea, or headaches follow overexposure.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

It's easy to find good English-speaking doctors. You can find hospitals and emergency numbers in "Fast Facts" .

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. You may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later. If you worry about getting sick away from home, you might want to consider buying medical travel insurance.

Crime & Safety

Petty crime has become an issue of concern on Dutch St. Maarten, with thefts and break-ins an increasing problem. Travelers are urged to lock their cars and lodging doors and windows at all times. Visitors should exercise common sense and take basic precautions everywhere on the island, including being aware of one's surroundings, avoiding walking alone after dark or in remote areas, and locking all valuables in a rental or hotel safe.

Anguilla is one of the safest destinations in the Caribbean, but you should still take standard precautions. Although crime is rare here, secure your valuables. Crime is also extremely rare on St. Barts; it's one of the safest islands in the Caribbean. But it's always wise to protect your valuables. Don't leave them unguarded on the beach or in parked cars, even if locked in the trunk.

Etiquette Tips -- Despite the clothing-optional beaches on St. Martin, St. Maarten, and St. Barts, flaunting one's body (or any flagrant display) is frowned upon, especially on proper British Anguilla. Except at casual beach bars, men should wear some kind of shirt, women a wrap. Casual resort wear is recommended for most restaurants, especially at dinner. "Sunday dress" is appropriate when visiting churches, though ties aren't mandatory for men. In general, profanity is frowned upon.