Best Fresh Fish: The spare stone arches of St. Petersburg's Restoran (St. Petersburg; 2 Tamozhenny Pereulok; tel. 812/327-8979) evoke another era, but its elegant lines and innovative chef keep things thoroughly modern. The unobtrusive salad bar offers marinated Russian specialties. The fish is so fresh you can forget any fears and indulge.
Best Literary Dive: Just a small streetlight above the entrance marks the bohemian vegetarian basement cafe Idiot (St. Petersburg; 82 Moika Canal; tel. 812/315-1675), named after a Fyodor Dostoyevsky novel. Mulled wine warms visitors in the winter months; lightly fermented kvas cools you in July. Pick a book in English from the cafe's eclectic library to peruse while you sip.
Best Quickie Meal: Yolki-Palki is a Russian chain with basic sit-down service in a country kitchen setting. It's also kid-friendly, a rarity on Russia's otherwise up-to-date dining scene.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.