Planning a trip to St. Thomas, USVI

Island Layout

Charlotte Amalie

Charlotte Amalie, the capital of St. Thomas, is the only town on the island. Its seaside promenade is called Waterfront Highway, or simply, the Waterfront. From here, you can take any of the streets or alleyways into town to Main Street (also called Dronningens Gade). Principal links between Main Street and the Waterfront include Raadets Gade, Tolbod Gade, Store Tvaer Gade, and Strand Gade.

Main Street is home to all of the major shops. The western end (near the intersection with Strand Gade) is known as Market Square. Once the site of the biggest slave market auctions in the Caribbean Basin, today it’s an open-air cluster of stalls where local farmers and gardeners—many from the Estate Bordeaux farms on the island’s West End—gather to sell their produce; Saturday is their big day. Go early in the morning to see the market at its best.

Running parallel to and north of Main Street is Back Street (also known as Vimmelskaft Gade), which is also lined with stores, including some of the less expensive choices. Note: It can be dangerous to walk along Back Street at night, but it’s reasonably safe for daytime shopping.

In the eastern part of town, between Tolbod Gade and Fort Pladsen (northwest of Fort Christian), lies Emancipation Park, commemorating the liberation of the slaves in 1848. Most of the major historic buildings, including the Legislature, Fort Christian, and Government House, lie within a short walk of this park.

Southeast of the park looms Fort Christian. Crowned by a clock tower and painted rusty red, it was constructed by the Danes in 1671. The Legislative Building, seat of the elected government of the U.S. Virgin Islands, lies on the harbor side of the fort.

Kongens Gade (or King’s Street) leads to Government Hill, which overlooks the town and St. Thomas Harbor. Government House, a white brick building dating from 1867, stands atop the hill.

Between Hotel 1829 (a mansion built that year by a French sea captain) and Government House is a stone staircase known as the Street of 99 Steps. Actually, someone miscounted: It should be called the Street of 103 Steps. Regardless, the steps lead to the summit of Government Hill.

West of Charlotte Amalie

The most important of the outlying neighborhoods to the west of Charlotte Amalie is Frenchtown. Some of the older islanders still speak a distinctive Norman-French dialect here. Because the heart of Charlotte Amalie can be less safe at night, Frenchtown, with its finer restaurants and interesting bars, has become the place to go after dark. To reach Frenchtown, take Veterans Drive west of town along the Waterfront, turning left (shortly after passing the Windward Passage Hotel on your right) at the sign pointing to the Villa Olga.

The mid-grade hotels that lie to the immediate west of Charlotte Amalie attract visitors who are seeking more moderate hotel rates than those charged at the mega-resorts that dot the gold-plated South Coast. The disadvantage is that you may have to depend on public transportation to reach the sands. The biggest attraction is that you’re on the very doorstep of Charlotte Amalie, filled with restaurants, bars, shopping, and other amusements.

East of Charlotte Amalie

Traveling east from Charlotte Amalie, along a traffic-clogged highway, you’ll see St. Thomas Harbor on your right. If you stay in this area, you’ll be in a tranquil setting just a short car or taxi ride from the bustle of Charlotte Amalie. The major disadvantage is that you must reach the sands by some form of transportation; if you want to run out of your hotel-room door onto the beach, look elsewhere.

The South Coast

This fabled strip, with its good, sandy beaches, has put St. Thomas on the tourist maps of the Caribbean. Many visitors prefer the full-service resorts on the South Coast and East End to the hustle and bustle of Charlotte Amalie, especially during the day, when it’s overrun by cruise-ship passengers. But if you feel the need for a shopping binge, cars, hotel shuttles, and taxis can quickly deliver you to Charlotte Amalie.

The East End

The East End is reached by traversing a long, twisting, traffic-clogged road east of Charlotte Amalie. Once you’re here, you can enjoy sea, sand, and sun with little to disturb you (the East End offers even more isolation than the South Coast). This is the site of such lovely beaches as Sapphire Beach and Lindquist Beach. This section of bays and golden sands is where you’ll find the the luxe Ritz-Carlton resort as well as a smattering of smaller, less-expensive resorts and condos. The settlement at Red Hook is a bustling community with raffish charm and lots of seaside bars and affordable eateries. It is also the departure point for ferries to St. John.

The North Coast

The renowned beach at Magens Bay lies on the lush North Coast. Be aware that the beach is often overrun with visitors, especially when cruise-ship arrivals are heavy. The North Coast has few buildings and not much traffic, but what it does have are scenic vistas, among the most panoramic on the island. Note that traveling the roads can be like a ride on a rollercoaster—the roads have no shoulders and can be especially scary for those not familiar with driving on the left. A lot of the northwest coast, especially at Botany Bay, Bordeaux Bay, and Santa Maria Bay, isn’t linked to any roads. Estate Bordeaux has some beautiful, rural stretches of lush mountain farmland, where farmers raise produce and livestock in the loamy green hills.

Fast Facts

Banks -- FirstBank Virgin Islands (tel 340/775-7777; www.firstbankvi.com) has six locations on the island, with 24-hour ATMs at Crown Bay Center, East End Plaza, FirstBank Plaza, the Waterfront, and Yacht Haven. Scotiabank (tel 340/776-5880; www.scotiabank.com) has six locations on St. Thomas, including Havensight Mall and Tutu Park Mall; all branches have ATMs. Banco Popular tel 800/724-3655; www.popular.com/vi) has branches in Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook. Most island banks are open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 3pm, and Friday 8:30am to 4pm. The banks are your only option if you need to exchange currency. More than 50 ATMs are available on the island.

Business Hours -- Typical business and store hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Some shops open Sunday for cruise-ship arrivals. Bars are usually open daily 11am to midnight or 1am, although some hot spots stay open later.

Dentists -- The V.I. Dental Center, Foothills Professional Building, 9151 Estate Thomas, Ste. 203 (tel 340/772-6000; http://videntalcenter.com), has a team of dentists that are members of the American Dental Association. Call for information or an appointment.

Doctors -- Schneider Regional Medical Center, 9048 Sugar Estate, Charlotte Amalie (tel 340/776-8311; www.rlshospital.org), provides services for locals and visitors.

Drugstores -- Go to Havensight Pharmacy, Havensight Mall, Building 4, Charlotte Amalie (tel 340/777-5313).

Emergencies -- For the police, call tel 911; ambulance, tel 911; fire, tel 921.

Hospitals/Clinics -- The Schneider Regional Medical Center is at 9048 Sugar Estate, Charlotte Amalie (tel 340/776-8311; www.rlshospital.org). For 24-hour medical care call the Red Hook Family Practice (tel 340/775-2303) or Doctors on Duty (tel 340/776-7966).

Hot Lines -- Call the police at tel 911 in case of emergency. If you have or witness a boating mishap, call the U.S. Coast Guard Rescue (tel 787/729-6800), which operates out of San Juan, Puerto Rico. Scuba divers should note the number of a decompression chamber (tel 340/776-8311) at the Schneider Regional Medical Center on St. Thomas.

Internet -- Most hotels and resorts now offer free Wi-Fi in the lobby. Many bars and restaurants also offer free Wi-Fi.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- The major hotels provide laundry service, but it’s more expensive than a Laundromat. For dry cleaning, go to One-Hour Martinizing, Barbel Plaza, Charlotte Amalie (tel 340/774-5452).

Mail -- Postage rates are the same as on the U.S. mainland: 34¢ for a postcard and 49¢ for a letter to U.S. addresses. For international mail, a first-class postcard or letter stamp costs $1.15.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Copies of U.S. mainland newspapers, such as “The New York Times,” “USA Today,” and “The Miami Herald,” arrive daily in St. Thomas and sold at newsstands. “The Virgin Island Daily News” (http://virginislandsdailynews.com) covers local, national, and international events. “St. Thomas This Week,” packed with visitor information, is distributed free on the island.

Police -- The main police headquarters is currently located in the Alexander Farrelly Criminal Justice Center in Charlotte Amalie (tel 340/774-2211). The Crime Line phone number is tel 340/777-8700.

Post Office -- The main post office is at 9846 Estate Thomas, Charlotte Amalie (tel 340/774-1950), and is open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 5pm and Saturday 7:30am to noon.

Safety: The Virgin Islands are a relatively safe destination. The small permanent population is generally friendly and welcoming. As in any locale, be careful when wandering alone at night, especially on back streets. Store valuables in hotel safes if possible, and make sure you keep doors and windows shut at night.

Getting Around

By Car

St. Thomas has many leading North American car-rental firms at the airport, and competition is stiff. Before you go, compare the rates of the “big three”: Avis (tel 800/331-1212 or 340/774-1468; www.avis.com), Budget (tel 800/626-4516 or 340/776-5774; www.budgetstt.com), and Hertz (tel 800/654-3131 or 340/774-1879; www.hertz.com). You can often save money by renting from a local agency, although vehicles may be older, with more wear and tear. Recommended agencies include Dependable Car Rental, 3901 B Altona, Welgunst, behind the Bank of Nova Scotia and the Medical Arts Complex (tel 800/522-3076 or 340/774-2253; www.dependablecar.com), which provides free pickup and drop-off anywhere on St. Thomas and offers a 12 percent discount when you mention that you saw them on the Internet; and the aptly named Discount Car Rental, 14 Harwood Hwy., located just outside the airport on the main highway (tel 877/478-2833 or 340/776-4858; www.discountcar.vi), which offers a 12 percent discount when you book online or through its Facebook page—and advertises “clean, new cars.”

Note: Gas (petrol) was hovering close to $5 a gallon at press time.

Driving Rules  -- Always drive on the left. The speed limit is 20 mph in town, 35 mph outside town. Seat belts are required by law, and it’s illegal to talk on cellphones while driving.

Parking  -- Because Charlotte Amalie is a labyrinth of congested one-way streets, don’t try to drive in town looking for a parking spot. If you can’t find a place to park along the Waterfront (free), go to the sprawling lot to the east of Fort Christian, across from the Legislature Building. Parking fees are nominal here, and you can park your car and walk northwest toward Emancipation Park, or along the Waterfront, until you reach the shops and attractions.

By Taxi

Taxi rates are set by the island’s Taxi Association and fares are widely posted, even in taxis; check out the official fares in the free magazine “This Week” offered in most businesses. Look for officially licensed taxis only: You can spot them by their dome lights and the letters tp on the license plate. Still, be sure to confirm the rate with the driver before you get into the taxi. A typical fare from Charlotte Amalie to Sapphire Beach is $13 per person; from the airport to the Marriot Frenchman’s Reef is $10 per person. We took a taxi one night from the Ritz-Carlton to Secret Harbour for dinner and were charged $5 a person. Surcharges are added after midnight. Add on $2 per bag for luggage (and a $1 surcharge for trips June 1–Sept 1).

Taxi vans and open-air safaris (converted truck beds with open-air seating) are ubiquitous around the island. Taxi vans are equipped to transport approximately 8 to 12 passengers to multiple destinations on the island, while safaris can often fit up to 25 people. It’s cheaper to hop on a van or safari than ride a taxi on your own if you’re going between your hotel and the airport, but keep in mind you will be making stops along the way—an exhausting proposition if you have arrived on a late flight. The cost for luggage ranges from $1 to $2 per bag. Call tel 340/774-7457 to order a taxi van.

If you don’t plan to rent a car, it’s easy to find taxi drivers. Just have your hotel or restaurant call a taxi for you, no matter where you are. Even better: Get the card of a favorite taxi driver and let him or her know your itinerary—or call the drivers we recommend below. Taxi drivers also make wonderful sightseeing guides. Expect to pay about $50 for a single-passenger tour or $25 per person for two or more passengers for 2 hours of sightseeing in a shared car.

If you’re looking for a thoroughly engaging and wonderfully informative taxi driver/tour guide, look no further than Campbell Rey (tel 340/771-1568), the unofficial “mayor” of the island—we highly recommend his services. We also highly recommend Llewelyn Powell (tel 340/771-1568 or 776-3887). For 24-hour radio-dispatch taxi service, call tel 340/774-7457.

By Water taxi

Getting around by water taxi is another way to travel. Dohm’s Water Taxi is an inter-island water taxi service that will take you anywhere in the Virgin Islands you want to go in custom-built catamaran powerboats. It’s a smart alternative if you’re staying off island and your flight arrives in St. Thomas too late to catch a public ferry. Dohm’s also offers water-taxi service directly between the Ritz-Carlton or Marriott Frenchman’s Reef and St. John ($50 and $30 per person, respectively, with a five-person minimum). Go to www.watertaxi-vi.com or call tel 340/775-6501.

By Bus

Public buses run in the city and the country between 5:15am and 8pm daily, but waits can be very long and this is a difficult way to get about. A ride within Charlotte Amalie is 75¢; a ride to anywhere else is $1. For schedule and bus-stop information, call tel 340/774-5678.

On Foot

Walking is the best way to explore the historic section of Charlotte Amalie during the day. However, you will need a car or driver to reach many other island attractions, including Coral World and Magens Bay.

Getting There

By Plane

If you’re flying to St. Thomas, you will land at the Cyril E. King Airport (tel 340/774-5100; http://saint-thomas-airport.com; airport code STT), 3 miles (about a 15-min. drive) to the west of the central business district in Charlotte Amalie on Route 30. From here, you can easily grab a taxi to your hotel or villa. Chances are you will be staying east of Charlotte Amalie, so keep in mind that getting through town often involves long delays and traffic jams during rush hours.

Many people flying in from mainland cities in North America and from overseas connect through Miami or San Juan. Flight time from Miami is about 2[bf]1/2 hours. Flight time from San Juan to St. Thomas is approximately 30 minutes. Flight time between St. Thomas and St. Croix is only 20 minutes.

Direct flights to the U.S. Virgin Islands are available on American Airlines (tel 800/433-7300 in the U.S.; www.aa.com) from New York City, Boston, Miami, and San Juan. Flights from NYC take 3[bf]3/4 hours. Continental Airlines (tel 800/231-0856 in the U.S.; www.continental.com) has daily flights from Newark International Airport, in New Jersey, to St. Thomas. Delta (tel 800/241-4141 in the U.S.; www.delta.com) offers two daily nonstop flights between Atlanta and St. Thomas. US Airways (tel 800/428-4322 in the U.S.; www.usairways.com) has direct flights from Philadelphia and Charlotte. JetBlue (tel 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com) has direct flights from Boston. United Airlines (tel 800/538-2929 in the U.S.; www.united.com) has direct flights into St. Thomas from Chicago, Dulles (Washington, D.C.), and Newark. Spirit Airlines (tel 800/772-7117; www.spirit.com) has direct flights from Fort Lauderdale.

Cape Air (tel 866/227-3247 in the U.S. and U.S.V.I.; www.capeair.com) offers daily service between St. Thomas and San Juan, Puerto Rico, and has expanded its service to include flights between St. Thomas and both St. Croix and Tortola.

Seaborne Airlines (tel 866/359-8784 or 340/773-6442 in the U.S.V.I, www.seaborneairlines.com) is currently the major carrier between St. Thomas and St. Croix, offering regularly scheduled daily flights on 34-seat turboprop planes and seaplanes capable of carrying 15 to 17 passengers. Its regular planes fly between Cyril E. King airport in St. Thomas and the Henry E. Rahlsen airport in St. Croix. Seaborne seaplanes fly between the St. Thomas seaplane base (next to the Charlotte Amalie ferry terminal) and the St. Croix seaplane seaport in the Christiansted waterfront. Flight time between St. Thomas and St. Croix is 20 to 25 minutes. Seaborne also flies between St. Thomas and Beef Island, Tortola.

By Cruise Ship

Charlotte Amalie is one of the world’s busiest cruise ports and the Caribbean’s largest duty-free port, welcoming nearly 1,800,000 cruise passengers in 2012 (2013 was unavailable as we went to press). Most of the major cruise lines include regular stops in St. Thomas on their Caribbean itineraries, including the biggest cruise ships in the world, floating “cities at sea” capable of holding up to 6,000 passengers at a time.

Cruise ships dock at one of two major piers, each with room for two mega-ships at a time: Havensight Pier and Crown Bay. In addition, during the cruising high season, it’s not unusual to have an additional one, two, even three ships anchored just outside the harbor, delivering cruise-ship passengers to shore in tenders. At press time an expansion was in the works for the Crown Bay pier.

By Boat

Ferry service from Puerto Rico to St. Thomas, with a stop in St. John, is available only during Carnival. Trip time between Fajardo and Charlotte Amalie (St. Thomas) is about 1[bf]3/4 hours, with the departure Saturday morning and the return Sunday afternoon. The cost is $100 one-way, $125 round-trip. For more information, call Transportation Services at tel 340/776-6282.